Way to Decap ONLY on the Lee Decapping/Sizing Die?
- Thread starter 777funk
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beatledog7
Member
It might work with a normal resizing die, which I think is what you're asking. But that's a lot of trouble, and a decapper is very inexpensive and assures no resizing, so why not just get one? You'll use it a lot.
Anther option is to use a die from some much larger diameter cartridge, but again this would require die adjustment, whereas the universal decapper is set and forget.
Anther option is to use a die from some much larger diameter cartridge, but again this would require die adjustment, whereas the universal decapper is set and forget.
Scimmia
Member
Just buy a decapping die, it's only ~$10.
Seems like it's $12 as far as I've found but that's not what's killing me, it's all the last minute things I'm finding I need and the shipping costs every time I find that "one more thing" I didn't know I needed.
It seems like the cases fit in the outter die pretty well if it's scooted up a ways. The inner die/deprimer is a little bit of a pain to get in there.
It seems like the cases fit in the outter die pretty well if it's scooted up a ways. The inner die/deprimer is a little bit of a pain to get in there.
beatledog7
Member
Still more focused on fast and cheap than safe, eh?
Research would have mostly solved that problem, and you don't have to tumble twice anyway. When I load .223 I tumble the still-primed cases, size and deprime in a single step, then do whatever other case prep is required (primer pockets, flash holes, trim, chamfer and debur). Once they're loaded, I could tumble them again to remove traces of case lube, but I usually just wipe them with shop toweling.
But tumbling is the least labor intensive part of reloading. Doing it twice, should you choose that option, is dead easy; you can do it in your sleep.
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
Same here.
Tumble once long enough to just to knock the crud off.
Then size, inspect, and clean primer pockets.
Then tumble longer to get the sizing lube and stains off.
Then Load.
Then I usually tumble a third time for 15-20 minutes to give the loaded ammo that factory finish shine & get the fingerprints off so it stays that way.
rc
Tumble once long enough to just to knock the crud off.
Then size, inspect, and clean primer pockets.
Then tumble longer to get the sizing lube and stains off.
Then Load.
Then I usually tumble a third time for 15-20 minutes to give the loaded ammo that factory finish shine & get the fingerprints off so it stays that way.
rc
Problem is, no two guy's setups are exactly the same. So without some experimenting, it'd be just buy everything. And if I believed everything I read I'd buy nothing. Some people say ONLY Dillon, some people say Lee's press works just as good once properly set. Some say Lee is trash. I figured it's got to be ok and I think it is now that I have it.
But that's where it'd get expensive if I just did the research and started buying. Where do you start and where do you stop. The line is pretty blurry in a thing as subjective as the proper way to do reloading. Everyone finds their own way to make it safe and effective.
By the way nice looking clean rounds RC. Does tumbling after loaded mess up the bullet itself at all? I wonder if all the banging around would change anything. Probably not but curious there.
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
No.
Ever wonder why factory loaded ammo is so shiny it knocks your eye out when you open a box?
They tumble polish it after it is loaded.
You will sometimes find tumbler media stuck in hollow point bullets right from the factory.
The only thing you don't want to tumble is lead bullet ammo with exposed bullet lube.
It makes a mess when the media dust sticks in the bullet lube.
rc
Clark
Member
If you use a revolver, they don't leave any brass at the scene of the crime
ngnrd
Member
777Funk, I've noticed that you've posted several questions regarding some of the basics of reloading, and I would encourage you to continue asking questions. I know it may seem overwhelming when you're just getting your feet wet. There are good-ways, bad-ways, no-ways, and all-ways that you need to carefully consider when making decisions about reloading. And, you're right; there are many, many different set-ups used by a very diverse bunch of folks. And, each of those individuals has some kind of opinion about what's best. But, in spite of the chatter about particular methods or equipment, there are some general guidelines that should always be followed.
Also, the equipment doesn't have to be expensive (I successfully made my first hand loads with a $15 Lee Loader I got at a pawn shop), but there are some pieces that are necessary. Likewise, which steps to take to end up with satisfactory ammunition, and the order in which those steps are taken are commonly debated on the interwebs. But, there are several steps that are necessary to end up with safe ammunition.
With this in mind, I would respectfully make a recommendation. Please, before attempting to load any more ammunition, read "The ABC's of Reloading", cover to cover, twice. And then go back and read it again. Then, refer to it regularly as you progress from step to step in the reloading process. I'm not kidding. That book covers a lot of information, and a quick skim will give you just enough information to be dangerous (as will asking random questions on internet forums). You not only need to understand the physical process of hand loading, you need to understand why you need to perform certain steps, and what can happen if you "do this" or "don't do that". Doing something "unconventional" may not necessarily be doing it "wrong", but you do need to understand the consequences of doing it a certain way.
Also, pick up a copy of the 49th edition of the Lyman Reloading Handbook. But, don't even look at the load data section in section 5 until you've read Sections 1 and 2, which cover Safety, and the Basics of Reloading. Lyman has been publishing this manual for a very long time, and they have a pretty good idea how to do it right.
And as you read these books, and start reloading again, keep asking questions along the way. As good as they are, there are certainly things that the books may not cover, like whether or not you can set the decapping pin in a full length sizer die so you can deprime before tumbling. In this case, the answer is "probably", depending on your particular setup. Of course, when you ask such a question, you have to expect some of the replies to be "just buy X, because that's what I have, so it must be the best way to do it". It's kind of the nature of the beast.
And, one more thing regarding your original question about decapping dirty brass, I would recommend cleaning your dies afterward. I wouldn't want any grit floating around in the dies when I went to resize the tumbled brass later.
Hondo 60
Member
How about just using a Universal decapping die?
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/136543/lee-universal-depriming-and-decapping-die
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/136543/lee-universal-depriming-and-decapping-die
Sport45
Member
777funk said:
I just keep everything I'm thinking about buying in my "Wish List" on Midway's site. I don't place an order until I'm getting enough to make shipping much less significant. I don't necessarily order from Midway, but often do.
I'll also go in with friends to make orders bigger.
In answer to theOP I just started out too, and am waiting on a decapping die,I have the Lee Deluxe 3 dieset and I just backed the neck only die way out and decapped them,works great while you wait on the mailman.
That said I agree on what the others said, right tool...,ABC's, etc. But then again I dont even have a tumbler yet, I wash my brass in a pickle jar with dishwasher soap and deprime wet and clean primer pockets by hand, and let dry...load the nextday.
Hope it helps
That said I agree on what the others said, right tool...,ABC's, etc. But then again I dont even have a tumbler yet, I wash my brass in a pickle jar with dishwasher soap and deprime wet and clean primer pockets by hand, and let dry...load the nextday.
Hope it helps
1SOW
Member
Nope.
Must of these people coming down hard on you were asking the same questions a year or two ago.
You could decap with anything that would fit in the hole & something used as a hammer.
I don't see the point in it tho. I haven't cleaned a primer pocket in 15 years.
You could decap with anything that would fit in the hole & something used as a hammer.
I don't see the point in it tho. I haven't cleaned a primer pocket in 15 years.
FROGO207
Member
Here's an Idea to try. Take the die out and turn the decapping rod upside down and tighten it in place as short as it will need go with a bottle necked die or where it is convenient with a regular pistol die. Screw the die back in upside down from the bottom. Leave enough room to insert the brass and make sure the decapping pin will actually decap as adjusted. Then go to town. I use my 500 S&W sizing die as a sort of universal decapper these days cause I am really a cheapskate at heart.
Agreed that we all had to learn once and as such asked lots of questions. Still sometimes it sounds as though somebody is acting with less info than is prudent and we all hop in to be "helpful" trying to keep a newbie safe, I am guilty sometimes myself.
ETA I sometimes worry that a brand new reloader will see one of Clark's posts and think "Well if he can get away with it why can't I also?---------" then OOPS.
I use my 500 S&W sizing die as a sort of universal decapper these days cause I am really a cheapskate at heart.Agreed that we all had to learn once and as such asked lots of questions. Still sometimes it sounds as though somebody is acting with less info than is prudent and we all hop in to be "helpful" trying to keep a newbie safe, I am guilty sometimes myself.
ETA I sometimes worry that a brand new reloader will see one of Clark's posts and think "Well if he can get away with it why can't I also?---------" then OOPS.
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splattergun
Member
^ this.
I use Lee press and dies. I don't have a decapping die. I havn't found it necessary yet.
Keep a list of tools and such that you find yourself needing and order them in groups, instead of one at a time, to keep shipping charges more reasonable.
I don't concern myself with factory bright brass. I wash my fired brass before sizing/ decapping, rinse off the lube, then prime and load when dry.
I have had no squibs, no fail to fire, and no one at the range has told me my brass has dingy, dirty "ring around the collar".
I use Lee press and dies. I don't have a decapping die. I havn't found it necessary yet.
Keep a list of tools and such that you find yourself needing and order them in groups, instead of one at a time, to keep shipping charges more reasonable.
I don't concern myself with factory bright brass. I wash my fired brass before sizing/ decapping, rinse off the lube, then prime and load when dry.
I have had no squibs, no fail to fire, and no one at the range has told me my brass has dingy, dirty "ring around the collar".
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