WD-40

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jski

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  1. When should I use WD-40? (Since there are many WD-40 products, any of them)
  2. When should I use Ballistol?
 
WD-40 in its many guises is a fine product. But its not much a lubricant. I've used it on blued steel to clean it up and protect against rust. I think where it gets a bad rap is when it is used on internal parts, excessively, and for a long period of time. WD-40 will, over time, leave a sticky varnish on parts. My grandfather's 22 had it all over the bolt, and in the internal mechanism. Ironically, WD-40 is great for cleaning that gunk up. The other issue is WD-40 likes to creep, and where one has a heavy application in a chamber or magazine, that solvent can, given some time, migrate into a primer and deactivate it. WD-40 is not as bad as some would suggest, but its not the panacea that some believe it is. Ballistol, CLP, and many other products are a better fit for use on firearms. But in a pinch, WD-40, 3-1 oil, hell a few drops off the dipstick of the car will work. But where I do like WD-40 is for wiping down barrels and receivers after being out in the field on a rainy day. After drying them off, wipe them down with a rag and WD, mainly to keep them from developing surface rust on the way home. Then when they get home, they get cleaned up properly with some other product.
 
WD40 seems a good choice as a preservative, applied to metal that has, or will be, wet, but that you aren't going to paint. It will endure pretty well when exposed, months or so in nooks and crannies, and prevent rust. Fasteners on the wet side of your car, unless you have lanolin-based preservative on hand, is a great example.

I use CLP as a general oil on my bench, everywhere that wants oil (clean bores, pins, etc) except for carry pistols. They receive a synthetic oil that slightly resists running out, and doesn't smell.
 
Contrary to popular belief WD 40 as a preservative against rust is a bad idea as it tends to attract moisture. WD 40 was invented (designed) to dissolve (penetrate) rusty nuts and bolts. It has no use on the reloading and gun bench.

This comes from over 45 years as a Master Marine/industrial Diesel Mechanic.
 
Classic Water Displacement Formula 40 WD40 was developed to protect electrical contacts from water, especially salt water.
It includes a waxy substance in a solvent that evaporates over time. It does act as a penetrant on parts rusted together.
I treat it as a cleaner, not as a lubricant, and not as a long term protectant.
I have placed rusted gun parts in a zip lock bag and spayed them down with WD40, sealed the bag for 24 to 48 hours, and find it helps make removing rust easier.
I do not consider it a long term protectant, but a wipedown of external metal surfaces offers short term protection against rust.

There may be other products under the WD40 brand name (just as there are other products under the Hoppes #9 brand name) with different characteristics than the classic product.
 
WD40 A gun repair kit in a can. :evil:

Thank you, that was good.

WD40, the original, in the Blue and Yellow can, I would avoid, for a variety of reasons, which have been repeated on every gun forum, ad nauseum, for years. Not the least of which, is the inevitable stoning you get on the forums, every time it's name is mentioned.

SPECIALIST in the Black and Silver can, is a different WD-40 product, which is a superior rust preventive, and I recommend it highly. It's
silicone based, synthetic formula provides superior exposed metal protection. But I would advise caution, against using it on any finished exterior surface.
 
When it comes to firearms I only use WD-40 water disbursement. Such as if I fall in the creek when carrying my gun, flood, rain, etc.

There are many other great alternatives for lubrication and cleaning.

Slip 2000 is a great lubricant, Ballistol is a good option as well.
https://www.slip2000.com/
https://ballistol.com/

As far as cleaning and removal of lead, copper and powder residue I like the Bore Tech brands, they work great.
https://www.boretech.com/

For long term preservation, I like Eezox.
https://www.eezox.com/
 
Thank you, that was good.

WD40, the original, in the Blue and Yellow can, I would avoid, for a variety of reasons, which have been repeated on every gun forum, ad nauseum, for years. Not the least of which, is the inevitable stoning you get on the forums, every time it's name is mentioned.

SPECIALIST in the Black and Silver can, is a different WD-40 product, which is a superior rust preventive, and I recommend it highly. It's
silicone based, synthetic formula provides superior exposed metal protection. But I would advise caution, against using it on any finished exterior surface.
Is this what you’re referring to?

Good stuff?
 
For the exterior surfaces, I like to do a final wipe down with a silicone cloth. It makes everything shiny. Just not on the grip of the edc gun - it’s slippery.
 
Contrary to popular belief WD 40 as a preservative against rust is a bad idea as it tends to attract moisture. WD 40 was invented (designed) to dissolve (penetrate) rusty nuts and bolts. It has no use on the reloading and gun bench.

This comes from over 45 years as a Master Marine/industrial Diesel Mechanic.
??????

Contrary to internet posts on gun forums, that is not what WD 40 was developed for.

There have been a gazillion tests on how well it works to prevent rust and corrosion,

https://www.wd40.com/history/
 
My more-or-less standard post-shooting cleaning method is to wet a rag with WD-40 and use it to wipe down the outside of the gun. It does a good job getting rid of powder fouling and costs nearly nothing. Then I spray some on a boresnake and run it through the bore and chamber/s. On a gun that is regularly used and doesn't metal foul, this is often all I do. Lead or copper fouling obviously requires further attention, and I don't trust WD-40 to prevent rust for the long term, but the basic routine has been working for me for a couple of decades now, despite all the nonsense written about the stuff.
 
I have gallon cans of it, don’t use it as a lubricant much and there are better penetrating oils. I think to lots of people it’s the duct tape or bailing wire of lubes.
 
I have gallon cans of it, don’t use it as a lubricant much and there are better penetrating oils. I think to lots of people it’s the duct tape or bailing wire of lubes.
I've used a lot of WD-40 over the years, and I'm a sucker for lubricants, but in reference to the OP's question, Ballistol has replaced WD-40 in my household as the "duct tape" of lubes.
 
It can't be too bad I have seen shooters with high priced full auto firearms dump the WD-40 on the barrels of hot guns after a few fast mag dumps. If they dump it on $20,000 to $30,000 guns a squirt or two probably won't hurt my $400 AR. LOL
 
I'll use it to remove sticky label or tape residue on a lot of stuff, for this it works great. I will also use WD-40 as a water displacing treatment after an unintentional dip or a rainstorm soaks my gun(s).

I've had to clean the interior areas of several guns that did have WD-40 form the yellowy-varnish like build up on the insides because it was left there for extended periods of time. For this reason I won't use it as an interior lube.

Those who regularly relube/clean theirs with WD-40 may have different experiences. If it works for them, I see no reason for them not to keep on keepin' on :thumbup:.

Stay safe.
 
I remember reading about its development for the outer skin of missiles when I was a kid. Never really knew if that was true. Pretty interesting. I don’t usually use it on guns, even 3 in one oil is a much better lubricant, but it gets used sometimes because it is ubiquitous in everyone’s tool boxes/shops/trucks/cabins/boats/etc.
 
Thank you, that was good.

WD40, the original, in the Blue and Yellow can, I would avoid, for a variety of reasons, which have been repeated on every gun forum, ad nauseum, for years. Not the least of which, is the inevitable stoning you get on the forums, every time it's name is mentioned.

SPECIALIST in the Black and Silver can, is a different WD-40 product, which is a superior rust preventive, and I recommend it highly. It's
silicone based, synthetic formula provides superior exposed metal protection. But I would advise caution, against using it on any finished exterior surface.
upload_2021-5-13_3-45-15.jpeg
Is this of interest to gunsmiths? Versus a traditional wet lube such as Ballistol?
 
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