Weight spring for Combat Commander?

[PinnedAndRecessed]

What is the stock spring weight for the Colt Combat Commander?

thanx.

Oh, and is there anything I can do to my slide that will give me a more sure grip when chambering a round (with the hammer down)?

The slide has been tightened by Jim Clark and, as I get older, is getting harder to pull back in the above stated condition.

It seems that the slide serrations for the 1977 Government model Mark 4/Series 70 just don't give that good a gripping surface.

 

[Navy joe]

Not sure on the spring weight since I only have full size guns. With the slide you could get deeper serrations cut or get a dovetail cut in the top to install a slide racker as seen on many IPSC open guns. Are you racking from the back of the slide with a thumb and forefinger pinch? If so, try an overhand rack where you put the heel of your hand on one side of the slide then wrap all four of your fingers over the top, it usually offers a more sure and easier grip.

 

[PinnedAndRecessed]

Yeah Joe, I'm racking with the overhand grip.

The problem is that the gun was satin nickeled and seemed to smooth out the serrations.

I just saw a slide racker. It looks like a coat hook. Think I'll pass on that one.

 

[Gordon]

I'd run a 19 pound Wolff spring in it. I run that spring in my Commanders and they seem to perk best for the last 20 years with maybe 60K ROUNDS THRU THEM IN THAT TIME! Before that I ran the factory spring , which was supposed to be 19 pounds but felt weaker to me.

 

[joneb]

Hope this helps, http://www.gunsprings.com/SemiAuto/ColtNF.html#CmdrRecoils

 

[HSMITH]

I run 16 pound springs in Commanders, and prefer ISMI springs. I would use an 18 but that is as strong as I will go. This is with the factory long radius firing pin stop and a 21 pound mainspring.

If you were to drop the mainspring to 19 pounds and put an 18 pound recoil spring in it I think it will be a good bit easier to rack and the combination is enough spring to keep the gun from getting beat up.

A little patch of skateboard tape over the top of the slide will also help, put it right in front of the rear sight. If you keep it on top of the slide and behind the ejection port it won't hurt your holsters or contact your hands when shooting.

 

[GaryP]

Colt Combat Commanders are shipped from the factory with a 18lb Conventional recoil spring. I run Wolff 19lb Variable rate recoil springs in my Commanders. The full size Government models are shipped with a 16lb Conventional recoil spring. All Colt Commanders come with a 23lb hammer spring as standard. If you go with a lighter hammer spring you may need to move up to a heavier recoil spring.

 

[Deadmarsh]

16-18#, considering your ammunition...

leave MS at factory weight...

install EGW firing pin stop -- go to 1911.org and search for the reasons why and how to install for best performance (it's covered very well for me to rehash it here) -- trust me, you'll like the original Browning design over the newer (less efficient) version...

Good luck and enjoy the Commander...


Dead

 

[HSMITH]

The EGW firing pin stop will make the gun MUCH more difficult to cycle for him, I wouldn't recommend it at all in this instance.

Thumb cocking the hammer also makes cycling by hand a LOT easier, are you doing that already?

 

[PinnedAndRecessed]

Thumb cocking the hammer also makes cycling by hand a LOT easier, are you doing that already?

That's not how I (concealed) carry. I carry a Combat Commander with the hammer down on an empty chamber. I can draw, chamber a round and be ready in a matter of seconds.

With the Mark 4, the slide to frame fit is so tight that I can not do it consistently. A little sweat, a little oil, and I can't grip it well enough.

Rodgers pistolsmithing,
http://www.rodgerspistolsmithing.com/
said to use JB Bore lapping compound on the slide/frame.

At the present, the gun is set up for Bullseye competition. Even with the parts removed, the slide will not move, regardless of how it's held. That's snug.

 

[Deadmarsh]

I agree, HSmith, it would require a bit more to cycle on a down hammer, but the rewards with respect to recoil for the lighter Commander would be a more than adequate exchange, plus the frame wear from the hotter loads...

I certainly can see your point, but for $12.00 a copy an 30 minutes fitting, it would be worth the effort, IMO. Besides, he could swap it out in a matter of a few seconds if he didn't like it for racking, keep as a spare, or install in a Gov't model...

It's just an idea, and it's sure nice to know there are other 1911 guys that can even discuss the concept as the original FPS has almost been lost in history...


Dead

 

[HSMITH]

Dead, I run a short radius firing pin stop in some guns and a long radius in others. All of my (and I hate the term) 'serious' guns have the long radius stop in them. The timer and the scores in competition tell me that I can run them faster and more accurately with the long radius firing pin stop. The short radius stop feels a heck of a lot better but even with a couple thousand round transition period the results come back the same. For guns I shoot to enjoy I have short radius firing pin stops in, for the guns that count for score on or off the competition field I run long radius stops. Knowing what makes the difference for me shooting my guns is the reason, and what works for me certainly doesn't make what anyone else is doing wrong.

I don't worry about frame battering at all, if I get 20K rounds out of the gun all is well, if I get 50K it is a bonus. I buy and use guns as tools, when they wear I get another one. My current primary Commander is pretty new. It has less than 6000 rounds through it, every one with a long radius stop and a 16 pound recoil spring. It shows basically no wear. I have yet to hurt an all steel 1911 in less than 50K rounds, most go near 100K without issue.


P&R, carry cocked and locked and the concern goes away. I am sure you know that, and don't carry cocked and locked for a personal reason though. I thin the JB Bore compound a little with FP10 or CLP, and then lap. It is easier to get where you need it and also easier to manage. This is also how I hard fit a slide to frame. It provides the clearance you need for the gun to work every time and still be tight enough to provide any level of accuracy you might need if everything else is done right.

Please do try a little skateboard tape over the top of the slide, it might make all the difference to you for a couple years yet.

 

[Gordon]

The Wolff 19 pound Commander lenth spring IS the progressive one. It makes the initial 'press check ' easier than a stock spring.

 

[Deadmarsh]

HSmith:

Heck, those 1911's of your are just getting started

I agree with your use of the FPS, however, I replace so many of them for my customers that I never think much about those who might decide (and I cannot in my wildest understanding know why) to carry other than condition 1. Sure, I understand condition 3 for the military at road shacks or such, but other than that, C&L is the safest way to carry a 1911 - I realize you know this, but thought to pass it along to readers who may be new to the platform...

I use the original FPS for many reasons at the shop -- but for me, it helps me time a 1911 much better than without it, be it a standard piece or some race gun a customer wants timed and tuned. If I run with original specifications throughout the 1911, I can troubleshoot much better and deliver mathematically 100% reliable handguns...

As you know, mess with one thing and another problem arises. I think when the A1 design changed the FPS, strange things started to happen, especially with recoil/rebound springs and link timing. Same can be said of non-standard magazines...

Well, thanks for the long-distance chat. I'd much prefer to do it over a cup of java and a setting sun...


Deaed

 

[HSMITH]

Thank you Dead, I have enjoyed it as well.

I know exactly what you mean about the timing, my current project is a 6" 40 S&W with a drastically lightened slide, bushing barrel, double stack and a 5" recoil system. Purely a race gun, and requires some thinking to get it to run AND last. A 9mm Open gun is also on the bench in pieces and it presents a couple more cans of worms........

Stock standard the way JMB wanted it sure is a lot simpler.