Well i bought it a ww2 double barrel..

[candymancan]

Qell i bought the german side by side shotgun.. even with the cracked stock. So far people keep saying ( people local) that i need to get a nee stock. Im going to attempt to repair it. Using a drill. Wooden dowels and some glue. It might show dowel plug when im done. But im hoping drilling where the crack stops. Will stop it from spreading like it does in metal. Then drilling along the crack to fill with glue and jam thr glue in with a dowel to get in the crack then jam thr dowel in. Then maybe try to match the stain as best as i can to hide it.


Anyway here it is. No one knew anything about it. Other than claiming it was prewar but 1 hour of digging online i found out how to tell what the markings mean.

Its a 16ga 70mm, 28 inch barrel length. 70mm meaning 2 3/4 shells YAY.. Its also Krupp steel werks on the barrels.. So its Nitro tested. The barrels inside and outside are in fantastic condition.. just need cleaned up with a silicone cloth. It might have veey very VERY slight pitting outside but ill clean it up and keep it oiled.

The engravings on it are insaine, even the screws and trigger guard are engraved. The wooden release for thr barrel is in good shape. Triggers are tight and work. Safety works. The barrel drop is smooth and tight still. The little lever to drop the barrel is straight down the middle and has no play.

Its got auto ejecting barrels as well. It has matching serial numbers. And stamps with the german Imperial eagle with a N underneeth which denotes Nazi germany. Its stanps 242 meaning made Feb 1942. made by Gustlof Werke. Waffenwerk Suhl. Which is 1 of 5 companies formed together to build weapons and parts fir ww2. Gustlof is famous in germany even had a ship named after him in ww2.


Lovely shotgun if i do say so myself. Just sucks about the stock.. but i refuse to have people say it isnt fixable. Ill just do it myself after research and see what happens. Generally when i put my mind to repairs on anything that isnt repairable i have great success. Fyi that isnt rust on the metal of the gun.. Its some weird sticky film. Doesnt wipe off

 

[Jim Watson]

Very nice.
The yellow film might be linseed oil that got wiped over the whole gun, not just the stock.

I wonder what the studs in the standing breech are. I would have said for loaded chamber indicators but don't see any signals on the outside. Some sort of patent selective ejector trip rod?

There are folks here who have fixed broken stocks, there are methods, get a good one from them.

 

[NIGHTLORD40K]

The metal should clean up nicely with some oiled steel wool or chrome polish.

Youve got the foundation for a real nice project gun, should turn out great!

 

[Dale Alan]

Congrats, that is a nice old shotgun . I like your spirit , good luck with the repair . I agree it's fixable , anything is possible .

 

[candymancan]

Very nice.
The yellow film might be linseed oil that got wiped over the whole gun, not just the stock.

I wonder what the studs in the standing breech are. I would have said for loaded chamber indicators but don't see any signals on the outside. Some sort of patent selective ejector trip rod?

There are folks here who have fixed broken stocks, there are methods, get a good one from them.

It has a auto ejector on it yes Ill take a picture of it

 

[nettlle]

I like it!

 

[jmr40]

The style reminds me of the one dad liberated from Germany in 1945. They had just captured a small German village. All civilian guns had been confiscated and were set to be destroyed when they got word the war was over. An officer told the men they could keep anything they wanted. Dad built a wooden box and mailed it home. It's a 12 ga with 32" barrels.

Dad's gun isn't quite as fancy, but is engraved similar. The cheek piece and sling loops are similar. I'm no expert, but have been told that this was built in the Belgian FN factory, probably before the war. The gun came from a gun shop in the town and was still new with tags on the trigger guard when dad got it.

 

[MacAR]

Nice gun you have there. But, why not use brass pins rather than wooden dowels? It cleans up a lot neater and is actually easier to do. I've done it before, and its not hard at all. Just remember to drill your holes slightly smaller than the pins and use a good epoxy. I believe Larry Potterfield from Midway has a good YouTube video on how to do it. Anyhow, congrats on your purchase and let us know how it works out for you!

Mac

 

[candymancan]

The style reminds me of the one dad liberated from Germany in 1945. They had just captured a small German village. All civilian guns had been confiscated and were set to be destroyed when they got word the war was over. An officer told the men they could keep anything they wanted. Dad built a wooden box and mailed it home. It's a 12 ga with 32" barrels.

Dad's gun isn't quite as fancy, but is engraved similar. The cheek piece and sling loops are similar. I'm no expert, but have been told that this was built in the Belgian FN factory, probably before the war. The gun came from a gun shop in the town and was still new with tags on the trigger guard when dad got it.

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Open it up take a picture under th3 barrels.. it should have a year stamp on it. It will also have an imperial eagle with the head one way. Or an eagle the other way with a N which means Nazi.. then youll know for sure what year it is.

Btw i love your dads shotgun.. i wish mine had the bluing left on it. It has it under the barrel stock lol. But the exposed metsl it wore off.

I just wish i knew how to get that orange sticky stuff off.. someone mentioned maybe its lintsead oil.. How would you guys clean this up ?

 

[candymancan]

Nice gun you have there. But, why not use brass pins rather than wooden dowels? It cleans up a lot neater and is actually easier to do. I've done it before, and its not hard at all. Just remember to drill your holes slightly smaller than the pins and use a good epoxy. I believe Larry Potterfield from Midway has a good YouTube video on how to do it. Anyhow, congrats on your purchase and let us know how it works out for you!

Mac

Where would you drill and pin though ? Here is th3 cracks. Should i drill and pin this. Or should i just lift the wood slightly and glue and clamp till dry ? I think it should be pinned. And drilled where th3 crack stops. Just like metal when it cracks if you drill the crack itll stop. I assume wood would be th3 same way

 

[MacAR]

Where would you drill and pin though ?

Pry it up gently, and squirt some epoxy into the crack. Then, pin it above the checkering at each end, leaving a little gap at the ends. If you're careful, you can just drill part way through and the pins will only show on one side. If all else fails, you can send the old stock off to someone like Richards and have them duplicate it. It'll cost a bit, but maybe worth it in the end.

Mac

 

[entropy]

I thought it was a Gustloff; never heard of a 'Gustof' shotgun as you posted earlier, though I've heard the Swedish Mausers referred to as such.
Nice find
I believe the 'studs' in the breech face are indicators to the selective ejectors.
Mineral spirits will get rid of linseed oil, or solvent. Keep them away from the wood.

 

[candymancan]

Sorry i ment gustloff lol. There is a shotgun maker named gustoff in ww2 though. I got them backwords

 

[candymancan]

Well i got the gun off the stock.. what a pain. Th3 safety is in the way of pulling it off once you unscrew it all.

Unfortunatly. Even though the triggers worked at the store. One is broken and the other looked cracked. The broken one was hanging on by a thread..

Only way to fix this is weld them back on and file it. Thankfully i work on cars and i can weld. Its just going to be hard to weld something so small. Tacks welds dont really get penetration.. so all i can do is try. Then file it down.

The wood is also cracked much more thsn i though. Its cracked from point A against the metal gun body all the way to those diamond grips there.. straight the middle of the stock.

I can see clear glue from someones attempted repair at one time. Ao i decided to glue this again.. but this time im putting dowels in. I couldnt find any brass ones..so im just going to use wooden ones. Ive already drilled 3 holes in the stock along the beefy sections. I think ill stick with the 3.. any further back and ill be on the diamond shape grip... not sure if i should drill that.

What do you guys think ? I want to put one where my finger is

 

[candymancan]

Decided to put two dowels in the back but smaller.. down at a angle so i dont ruin the checker diamond finish on the wood.

I think these 5 dowel pins should be enough.. but i feel it needs one more big one.. but maybe im going overboard now

 

[MacAR]

You'd be better off making a new sear, or finding one, than welding that one. A piece of flat stock, a hacksaw and a file is about all it takes. After you have it cut out and fitted, heat it a dull red, quench it in oil, then bake it in your oven for about an hour at 200 degrees. It'll be hard, but not brittle.

Mac

 

[Cvans]

Only way to fix this is weld them back on and file it.

Another option you might consider is hard (45%) Silver solder. This is extremely strong and much easier to handle when repairing small items.

 

[entropy]

Tacks welds dont really get penetration.. so all i can do is try. Then file it down.

Small diameter MIG wire. However, triggers can be made the same way as MacAR suggests doing fo rthe sear.

Wood does not act like metal in that regard.

You shouldn't need the extra dowel in the middle of the grip.

 

[MacAR]

Another option you might consider is hard (15%) Silver solder. This is extremely strong and much easier to handle when repairing small items.

Good idea, and one I hadn't thought of. Another thought is having it brass brazed. I know it'll hold up, as I have a horse drawn mower from the turn of the century with a brazed wheel, and its held for a long darn time. Surely it'll hold up in a scattergun.

However, triggers can be made the same way

Guess I need my glasses lol. I thought the picture was of the sear; I see now its the trigger bar. Ah, the march of time!

Mac

 

[candymancan]

Well i got the wood glued.. dowels in.. this epoxy i got sets too quicky.. was VERY hard to get in the cracks and hammer the dowels in on the time allowed lol.

I filed w peice of wood to act as a wedge to pry the wood open so i could get the epoxy inside the smaller cracks. Once i hammered the first dowel in the wood got way stronger and sucked itself in. 2nd one even better. Amazing how those things work.

Right now i have my heavy computer with a rubber tab sitting on top of it ti keep it pressed. It isnt the best job. But its as good as i could get it. After its dry.. i need to snip the ends of the dowels down. Sand em gently. Then find a stain to match the wood color as best as i can.

Tomorrow im going to attempt to weld the existing trigger bar thing back.. hopefully i can get penetration. Because a 1-2 seconds weld is all it would take to cover it.. and that may not be enough for penetration.

Well see. If that doesnt work ill have to figure another way out. Maybe make a new one like someone suggested. Ive never heard of silver solder. So its just solder with silver in it ? Would this actually hold the trigger peice together ??

This glue is strong as heck.. but i hate its set time lol.. hopefully this will work to allow the gun to be a shooter. Its some JB weld clear weld epoxy. Says 3900psi. So many glues including wood glue.. but i dont think wood glue would work for a gun stock.. at least not the stuff in lowes and home depot so i opted for this stuff. More pics to come

 

[MacAR]

Nicely done! That stock ought to hold just fine, now. That steel is soft, so be careful welding it. Sounds like you know welding though, so you'll know what needs doing. Just go slow and keep it cool, and you'll be fine. Good luck, let us know how it turns out.

Mac

 

[candymancan]

Here is glued and dowels if this doesnt work.. I can try to find those brass dowels and drill out the wood ones. And replace em. And try a different glue.

Hopefully this epoxy cures hard.. its been 2 hours and its still (soft) not like gooey but soft snd stretchy... It says cure time in 1 hour.. but i bet it needs 24 hours or more to fully harden. If it doesnt.. well i gatta find a different glue.

I am going to the dollar store tomorrow to get some suprr glue. That cyanoacrylateglue. Its very liquid like water. Because i couldnt get this thicker glue fully into the crack in the back on the outside even with prying. But the liquid like stuff should go inside. I know it looks like crap right now.. but ill sand the dowels down.. fill em with saw dust if i have too and then stain it a dark cherry or something close to try to match this as best as i can.

I hate to have drilled into this 80 year peice of history.. but its either this.. or leave it cracked and never use it again... and just like my motto for classic cars that i own. You should drive it every day, not let them sit and collect dust

 

[Cvans]

Ive never heard of silver solder. So its just solder with silver in it ? Would this actually hold the trigger peice together ??

If your going to try and weld those parts the only way I would do it is with a TIG welder. Not MIG and not an arc welder.
Hard Silver Solder is extremely strong. It's used for fabricating hydraulic and refrigeration fittings. Repairing Bandsaw blades and fabricating Knives. It's easy to use and file or grind to shape. Can be used to Braze copper to steel and Stainless Steel.
In my first post I should have said (45%) silver solder. 56% is another option and has a lower working temperature but is more expensive. This is actually considered brazing and can be done with Brass also.
This is what I use along with the appropriate flux.

 

[candymancan]

Update. I decided to weld it. All i have on me is my flux core welder.. im not a proffesional welder.. but ive been welding for about 7 years. Fixed frames on my classic cars. Floor boards. Done body panels etc.

This was way harder to do. I opted to go to the maximum heat settings because th3 metal is decently thick but very small and i wanted maximum penetration for the litterally split second i tap the trigger.


It looked like crap initially but filing it down it looks much better. I also welded the other trigger lever because it had a crack on the lect side.. same spot where the other lever broke off.

It was hard to hold th3 broken tiny peice and weld so i welded it crooked as you can see. The real test wasnt if it holds from the pull of a trigger.. but if a paor of pliers bending it the right direction will break the weld.

And it didnt. Which means it got really good penetration.. i put far more force bending it than a simple trigger pull.

Im filing the welds only as much as needed to clear everything so nothing touches. I dont want to take too much weld off and possibly comprimise it. Because i honestly dont know how well a split second tack at max heat did on such a microscopic peice.

Overall im very satisfied. And now my trigger works. It looks like crap. I still have more filing to do.. but here it is now

 

[MacAR]

Looks good to me. Dress it down nice and cold blue it, and you'll be hard pressed to tell it was ever broke. Now, get your stock finished up and you'll have a good using scattergun.

Mac