Dave McCracken
Moderator In Memoriam
Not everything we shoot at needs a teacup full of #2 shot to work. Nor are long barreled 12 gauge Maggie Numbs needed to "Reduce to Possession" most birds or small mammals.
For everything, a 12 gauge is a darn good choice. But when the parameters narrow to stuff smaller than a pheasant and less armored than an armadillo, there's much to be said for a 20 gauge loaded with the standard 7/8 oz charge.
Consider this....
A typical 20 gauge of any action type weighs 1/2 lb less than its 12 gauge sibling.
25 rounds of 20 gauge fodder weighs close to 1/4 lb less than the 12 gauge equivalent.
The lighter shotgun is easier to manipulate and perhaps a bit faster than a standard 12 gauge.
And it's less weight two fields,one gulley and a ridge away from the truck.
And of course, the 7/8 oz load is plenty to slay evil clay discs found on trap, skeet and sporting courses.
The Brits, of course, have been making 12 gauges for a century or more than run less than 7 lbs, but American makers haven't seen fit to follow where they lead for the most part. So if one wants a 6 lb currently made US shotgun, one gets a 20 or the delightful 28 gauge.
But 28 gauge ammo is quite expensive, not common, and there's lots of used 20s out there, maybe in your gunsafe or over the fireplace.
So what are the limits here?
Wild Pheasants over good close working dogs is near the line, IMO. While I've humanely taken a goodly number of roosters with 20s, there's shots I've passed up and sadly, some I should have passed up.
A better limit might be, anything where 7/8 oz of 6 shot works is 20 gauge country. Larger shot has too sparse a pattern.
For dove, quail, woodcock or grouse, the 20 shines as long as the shooter is up to the shot.
For ground game,the 20 will handle anything up to big, tough jack rabbits.
I do urge that one tightens up the choke just to keep up density. If one would use a Cylinder shoke in a 12 gauge for a given shot, the best choice for the 20 might be IC or a Light Mod. Like most things in life, there's a tradeoff.
As for the ever popular idea of a defensive shotgun, the 20 has enough moxie for the job. It does lack the variety of loads common to the 12, but there are both buck and slug loads that will take care of business.
BTW, the classic Brenekke slug in 20 gauge works very, very well inside 50 yards.Blood trails are no shorter with a 12.
Also, modern non tox loads like Hevishot can work OK in cases where one can get a 35 yard shot, but here a 12 may be the better choice.
I see a hand up. What about the 3" magnum loads for the 20 that pack up to 1 1/4 oz?
No, thanks. Not only are most 20s lighter than the 12s, but patterns suffer trying to get all those pellets down that smaller bore.
Besides being lighter, most 20s have trim stocks with smaller pads or butts that concentrate the push into a smaller area of the shoulder. Oz loads in the 20 gauge 870 here are hard kickers.
If you NEED that much load, use a 12.
Questions, Comments, Donations?....
For everything, a 12 gauge is a darn good choice. But when the parameters narrow to stuff smaller than a pheasant and less armored than an armadillo, there's much to be said for a 20 gauge loaded with the standard 7/8 oz charge.
Consider this....
A typical 20 gauge of any action type weighs 1/2 lb less than its 12 gauge sibling.
25 rounds of 20 gauge fodder weighs close to 1/4 lb less than the 12 gauge equivalent.
The lighter shotgun is easier to manipulate and perhaps a bit faster than a standard 12 gauge.
And it's less weight two fields,one gulley and a ridge away from the truck.
And of course, the 7/8 oz load is plenty to slay evil clay discs found on trap, skeet and sporting courses.
The Brits, of course, have been making 12 gauges for a century or more than run less than 7 lbs, but American makers haven't seen fit to follow where they lead for the most part. So if one wants a 6 lb currently made US shotgun, one gets a 20 or the delightful 28 gauge.
But 28 gauge ammo is quite expensive, not common, and there's lots of used 20s out there, maybe in your gunsafe or over the fireplace.
So what are the limits here?
Wild Pheasants over good close working dogs is near the line, IMO. While I've humanely taken a goodly number of roosters with 20s, there's shots I've passed up and sadly, some I should have passed up.
A better limit might be, anything where 7/8 oz of 6 shot works is 20 gauge country. Larger shot has too sparse a pattern.
For dove, quail, woodcock or grouse, the 20 shines as long as the shooter is up to the shot.
For ground game,the 20 will handle anything up to big, tough jack rabbits.
I do urge that one tightens up the choke just to keep up density. If one would use a Cylinder shoke in a 12 gauge for a given shot, the best choice for the 20 might be IC or a Light Mod. Like most things in life, there's a tradeoff.
As for the ever popular idea of a defensive shotgun, the 20 has enough moxie for the job. It does lack the variety of loads common to the 12, but there are both buck and slug loads that will take care of business.
BTW, the classic Brenekke slug in 20 gauge works very, very well inside 50 yards.Blood trails are no shorter with a 12.
Also, modern non tox loads like Hevishot can work OK in cases where one can get a 35 yard shot, but here a 12 may be the better choice.
I see a hand up. What about the 3" magnum loads for the 20 that pack up to 1 1/4 oz?
No, thanks. Not only are most 20s lighter than the 12s, but patterns suffer trying to get all those pellets down that smaller bore.
Besides being lighter, most 20s have trim stocks with smaller pads or butts that concentrate the push into a smaller area of the shoulder. Oz loads in the 20 gauge 870 here are hard kickers.
If you NEED that much load, use a 12.
Questions, Comments, Donations?....
