What are the differences between plated and jacketed bullets?

Status
Not open for further replies.

bummer7

Member
Joined
Nov 25, 2004
Messages
159
Location
Left Coast
Everyone,

Can you educate me on the differences between X-treme's plated bullets and the typical jacketed bullets sold by Hornady, Sierra, and others? I recently obtained a box of X-treme 9-147 HP bullets in a trade. Inspecting these bullets. I would swear the outer plating is a jacket of some sort and not a metal coating or a wash or a plating. Which makes me wonder what is the difference between these plated bullets compared to jacketed bullets?

Thanks for your help.
 
Plating is a process to electrically bond one metal to another. In this case copper alloy covers lead. Plated bullets are often madde of softer lead and the plating layer is much thinner. Jacketed bullets have a thicker later of gliding metal often stamped out rather than plated on. There are some hybred bullets made such as the Speer Deep Curl bullets that have a harder core and thicker plating than regular plated bullets as well. Generally plated bullets are less costly due to lead costing less and the more costly copper is thinner.
 

Thank you for the links to the article and the message thread. It does make more sense to see the difference when the jacketed and plated bullets are sliced in half.

although I will say the X-treme plated bullets do look good the way the plating forms a hollow point nose. You would think the extra plating would be quite thick in the nose and in the ogive section.
 
My experience is a plated ExTreme bullet in a 380 will dent and mushroom when hitting a standard water pressure expantion tank (Amtrol 202) and a FMJ using the same load will punch a hole into it.
Also a 124 grain 9MM FMJ will go in and out the other side for refrence.
 
My experience is a plated ExTreme bullet in a 380 will dent and mushroom when hitting a standard water pressure expantion tank (Amtrol 202) and a FMJ using the same load will punch a hole into it.
Also a 124 grain 9MM FMJ will go in and out the other side for refrence.

Now this is really interesting! I have to ask-
Were both bullets the same weight? And did you load both bullets to the same velocity? I assume both bullets shot from the same firearm? if so, I wonder why there is such a "significant" performance difference of the two bullets?
 
IIRC both were 100 grain RN bullets with about 2.6 grains of 700X as that is my standard load. I did not have any plated 9MM so did not compare them though. The plated 380 mushroomed out to about the size of a quarter and bounced off the metal leaving a good dent. Shot out of a Hi Point CF380. This was before smart phones so no pictures--sorry.
 
Inspecting these bullets. I would swear the outer plating is a jacket of some sort and not a metal coating or a wash or a plating.

No one would sell a jacketed bullet and advertise it as plated. Would be like selling beef tenderloin as hamburger.

They are less expensive than jacketed and a nice alternative to wax lubed lead. In calibers/loads that don’t exceed the platings ability to stay stuck to the lead, they work pretty good.
 
Although they are similar in appearance they are designed for totally different objectives!

"Plated" perform well at self defense distances ie. 15-20 yards. And they may fail to penetrate as in the above example. Plated are also limited to velocity. Accuracy falls off beyond 20-25 yards compared to quality FMJ!

FMJ beats plated in accuracy and self defense scenarios. Manufacturers will market FMJ and "Plated" differently ie. "Self defense" vs. "Range/target"

Smiles,
 
I shoot a lot of coated/plated bullets because I shoot mainly at an indoor range and the smoke from lead/lubed bullets can be a bit much for others shooting near me. I’ve shot Extreme bullets in various styles in .358, .410, .430 and .452 and all have done exactly what I wanted them to do. :)

If you keep Extreme bullets to 1200 fps or less they work very well. They do make some bullets they claim will work to 1500 fps with thicker plating and a concave base, but I stick to their standard stuff for my revolver loads. With 147 9mm bullets you should be good to go with any sensible 9mm Para load for that bullet weight.

One thing to watch when loading plated or powder coated bullets: the plating is not as thick or tough as jacketing. You will need a bit more flare at the case mouth to prevent the edge of the case from catching the plating and peeling it off as the bullet is seated.

Same goes for the crimp. With pistol loads a nice taper crimp is necessary so there shouldn’t be an issue. With revolver loads you can taper or roll crimp, but don’t put too much of a roll crimp on or you’ll cut through the plating.

For those who subscribe to the “minimal flare minimal crimp” philosophy the case flaring looks excessive, but it needs to be done. The case doesn’t need to look like a trumpet, but through trial and error you will find the sweet spot and you will see it is flared more than a case where jacketed bullets are being used. :thumbup:

Stay safe.
 
Although I will say the X-treme plated bullets do look good the way the plating forms a hollow point nose. You would think the extra plating would be quite thick in the nose and in the ogive section.
"Plating" is the nickname for electroplating. In the process, electrical current carries the (in this case) copper, one molecule at a time over to the object to be plated. There it is deposited and intimately bonded at the molecular level to the part being "plated". Being electrical in nature, the electrons would normally travel to the closest surface and especially sharp corners. This was discovered by Ben Franklin in the 1750's and is the basis for his work with lightening rods. So "Yes", normally you'd be correct.

However in this process, since the objects are small and hard to individually hold, the bullets and the surrounding conductive liquid are agitated so that no straight path to a single nearby surface is ever presented. In this way the copper plating is applied far more evenly, with few if any thick spots.
 
Well, I've sold MILLIONS of each. I make jacketed bullets but I've been blessed to use both and troubleshoot thousands of issues from customers. My conclusion is that plated bullets are indeed inferior to FMJ bullets in almost every way. That said, plated bullets are perfectly fine for about 90% of applications. Just think of plated bullets as 85 octane gas. You'll never get the most performance from them, but they will work for just driving around town. For example, we now have several people using our jacketed bullets to shoot 2600+ fps out of a 350 legend. This would be impossible with a plated pistol bullet. While plated bullets can stay together past 1200-1300 fps I've basically come to the conclusion that with some exceptions you will start to lose accuracy performance at about 1200. The way plated bullets are made is not conducive to consistency. Plated bullets have to made undersized and then "restruck" to fit a die. You can't make them oversize and then restrike them because the plating will stretch and crack. Almost all American plating companies use the old way to plate bullets which is prone to enbrittlement of the copper. Basically, it's hard copper which cracks when formed. So, they have to try to plate the core to near the exact diameter so that it won't stretch too much nor squish down too much when it gets restruck. This makes for a somewhat inconsisten base from bullet to bullet. The base of a pistol bullet is where you get 90% of your accuracy from. They're pretty good at it, but it tends to produce a TON of 2nds or undersized bullets. We have literally sold millions of 2nds from various plating manufacturers. We used to sell a lot of 2nds from one company in particular but found that what they used to call 2nds were then being sold to customers as firsts. Not sure what they are doing now. That was a couple of years ago. Plated bullets also suffer from being soft. I can't tell you how many customers have had tumbling issues because they crimped too hard or they used the Lee Factory Crimp die to make sure their ammo would chamber. Plated bullets will resize in the casing. You can start with a 9mm bullet that is .355 and end up with one that is .350 if you crimp wrong. For plated bullets I do not recommend the LFCD. I'm not sure if it is a problem with the die or if the people who use it are just not as well versed in proper reloading, but ALL of the tumbling problems are usually solved by removing the LFCD. Our testing has shown that most plated companies are generous with their plating thickness claims. Plating thickness with be highest around the nose and base of the bullet. Where it matters most is the body where all the crimping and rifling is going to go. Most are .004"-.006" thick with a few getting up to .008"-.010" at the body. This can be an issue when shooting from revolvers that have a really sharp forcing cone or when timing is off just a little bit. I've seen revolvers that will shave off one side of the plating. I've also seen where the plating fails to adhere to the lead and the rifling cuts it off and the bullet hits the target with one strip of copper cutting nice little lines in the paper.

On the other side of the coin we have jacketed bullets. The way they are made is simple enough. We take a copper alloy of 90% copper and 10% zinc which is known in the metal industry as commercial bronze. Some companies use 5% zinc and others use 20-30% zinc and make their jackets out of brass. We've tried both. Brass is way cheaper than copper so that's the reason you see a lot of companies making brass jackets these days. We've mostly stuck with copper because the color is nice and we've developed a following with our bullets looking a certain way. In application there really isn't any difference. I've had guys tell me that brass will wear out a barrel faster, but I seriously doubt it. On the hardness scale they're pretty similar. Anyway, we take that strip .023" and make a coin. That coin gets turned into a cup. The cup is trimmed and then a lead core is inserted. Then pressure is applied to them all and the bullet goes through three different stations where it is formed, base folded, base tamped, and then sent through a sizing die and out the bottom. There is virtually no possible way for a bullet to come out undersized with the way we make jacketed bullets. In fact, unless something is REALLY REALLY wrong with the lead cores, all our bullets will have pretty much the exact same diameter. All of our bases will be uniform and consistent from lot to lot. The wall thickness ends up around .020." This means that the bullet can handle much more abuse before it will deform or come apart. The way we use our lead to form the jacket pretty much bonds the lead to the jacket so it doesn't seem to have the issues of other jacketed bullets where the lead spins inside the jacket. Anyway, I could type a whole book if I had the time, but then everyone would know my secrets and I really don't have the time!! There are really only a couple downsides to jacketed bullets. They can't be made quite as fast, and they are more expensive to make. This usually translates into more expensive ammo. Though right now jacketed bullets can be had for about the same price (or less if you're willing to wait in line at our shop) as plated. In the last year we've made some pretty huge strides in jacketed bullet making. We now have two machines that can make them at 260 bullets a minute each. We can run them long enough to out produce a plating line now. Granted, HP bullets can't be made that fast, but regular FMJ can. With all our machines together, we were producing 500k bullets a day until the copper shortage hit us. Apparently there is a shortage of all metals in the US right now and the mills are running several weeks behind. So, though we can still make bullets at the regular slow speed, our faster machines will be silent for a couple weeks while we wait for more copper. Super frustrating because we were making HUGE strides in our backorder times. We would have been caught up on all our FMJ orders by the end of this month.

One last thing. There are some who believe that jacketed bullets will cause leading in compensators. I'm not sure which brands that seems to be true for, but I've got about 5000 rounds through one of our compensated guns and I get carbon deposits but not much lead. So, I cannot confirm this issue.

We've had a customer return 30,000 bullets to us once because he said he was getting lead poisoning from loading our jacketed bullets. We shipped him some plated bullets to try and his lead levels continued to rise. So, we traced his lead exposure. He was getting exposed to lead in SO many other places that the bullet was the least of his worries. Primers are usually made with lead compounds that get in the air and on your hands when shooting. If you shoot competition, you will be asked to reset targets and steel which are COVERED in powdered lead. Many ranges don't have good hand washing stations. Keep this in mind when handling food at the range. Also, if you clean your gun it will have primer residue on it as well and coupled with solvents you can easily get lead inside of you. If you wet tumble your brass, that water is filled with particulate lead. Same with corn cob or walnut. Trust me when I say that the bullet is the LAST place to be concerned about lead exposure. I have been loading, packaging, producing, and touching lead every single day for the last decade and more. My lead levels were really low. They did not start to go up until I started shooting matches with regularity. Even then, my blood only tested at 13 (which the doctor says 5 is acceptable). For reference, the guy who owns the indoor range tested at 60 but all he does is clean the place and empty out the bullet traps.

I paid about $400 for several vitamin drip/chelation therapy sessions (they're really cheap now and you can get them at like a chiropractor's office along with a vitamin drip IV therapy) but I didn't get my blood rechecked because corona hit America and nobody was going to the hospital. Anyway, I highly recommend a vitamin drip (I felt pretty great after my treatments and you can get chelation therapy added to it). I'm just going to consider it another cost for shooting matches.
 
Anywhere from 2-12" in group size at 25 yards--with the occasional plated bullet not even hitting the paper.
Of course, I haven't tried plated in about 8 years.
Please buy them so I can get jacketed...
 
I have about twenty compensated guns. Lead bullets leave no lead in my comps, much less jacketed. If they did, I would clean the comps.
When around most heavy metals--wash your hands, don't eat/drink/rub eyes/pick nose/smoke. After shooting, blow nose and wash face--maybe wear useless wufu mask and have it do some good.
 
Plated can shoot pretty well, but jacketed are more accurate, at least good ones are. Make good plinking bullets, but are as good a value as they used to be
 
appreciate the information and especially the feedback on people's experiences with the bullets. THR members are good people.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top