What Barrel For Ar Build?

Status
Not open for further replies.

possum

Member
Joined
Oct 12, 2005
Messages
8,941
Location
Concord, N.C.
Alright guys i have decided to build an upper, well have it built that is. i am wanting to have built an spr.
i would like to have an 18" heavy barrel, that will be able to have a vortex flash suppressor added to the front and i would like, it to be a 1x9" twist rate.

the purpose of the rifle will be precision shooting out to 600yds or so and will be scoped later on down the road.

any info on makers i should look in to would be much appreciated, who makes good barrels and links to thier sites or any other info would be great.thanks!
 
If you want a percision gun as opposed to an all around gun most guys would think about a 1/7 or a 1/8 twist to improve the ability to use the heavier bullets.
Most folks find that 1/9 really only works with bullets up to 69gr and the long distance (600yd) target guys perfer the heavier bullets.
If most of your shooting is with surplus ammo and you are satisified with the performance of 69gr ammo at distance (at a time not long ago 69gr was THE long range load, it can be shot well at distance) the 1/9 barrel is a good deal as it allows you to use the lighter "varmit" loads. I have found that my factory 1/9 bushmaster barrels like the reasonable priced Wall mart Winchester 45gr Varmint load.At around $15 for a box of 40 it is about half (or less) the price of any of the other boxed ammo and seems to outshoot or match the accuracy of all I have tried.
 
If most of your shooting is with surplus ammo and you are satisified with the performance of 69gr ammo at distance (at a time not long ago 69gr was THE long range load, it can be shot well at distance) the 1/9 barrel is a good deal as it allows you to use the lighter "varmit" loads.
yep my thinking exactly. i shoot mostly 55gr umc fmj, and some times 62gr m855. so that is the reason i decided to go with the 1x9" twist!
 
SBR for long range?

I would jump on one side of the fence or the other. If I'm mostly going to shoot long range- 600 yards- I'd drop the vortex and the short barrel and go with a 1/7 or 1/8 twist Douglas Stainless to shoot 77s or 80s out of a 20 inch or longer tube.

On the other hand if I want an SBR- then that's a real NFA weapon. Do the paperwork and add anything you want...but it's not going to be built for LR shooting.

Either way I would go with as much twist as I could. The 52s and 55s won't mind being spun up and the 77s and 80s will be happy.
 
I believe he was asking about SPR ( Special Purpose Rifle ) and no Short Bll Rifle as he mentioned "i would like to have an 18" heavy barrel"

Mike Rock
Noveske
Sabre Defense

I use a 16" Sabre Defense 1:8 , plenty accurate , while not a bull bll , it is full profile & fluted.
 
If you want to make accurate shots out to 600 yards, you don't want a 1:9 twist. Go 1:8 or faster so you can reliably shoot 75+ gr. bullets at that distance. You'll get beat up in the wind trying to chuck a 68 Hornady or 69 SMK at that distance.
 
SBR for long range?
no no read the post brother. i said i wanted a SPR a "Special Purpose Rifle", with 18" barrel, dosen't make much since to want to do long range shooting with a "short barreled rifle"!

thanks to all replies so far, i have heard of Mike rock before but none of the others so i am gonna have to look into them! thanks again everyone!
 
Another question!

speaking of fluted barrels, should i go with a heavy fluted barrel or just a heavy barrel, what real advantages will i have with getting a fluted barrel?
i forsee that the spr upper will not be shot that much maybe 300-500rds a year, my 16" upper will see more use than that like 1000rds plus a year. i don't plan on shooting the spr at high rates of speed just slow accurate fire at longer ranges so the barrel getting heated shouldn't be a big issue for this particular upper. what do ya''l suggest? thanks again!
 
OK, I have a Dan Lilja 16" SS barrel in one of my ARs. It is a precision, high-end barrel and it is very nice. It will put rounds on top of each other at 100yds if the shooter is up to it. It is also very expensive.

Here is the problem though... with the very best shooters I can find behind it (not me), match ammo, better optics, and shooting from a bench, the barrel is a few tenths of an inch tighter at 100yds than what an RRA SS match barrel will produce. I've shot the Mike Rock SS match barrels and they are the same deal - great barrels with beautiful precision; but it is a lot of money for those few extra 0.1" changes.

At 600yds, even if you double the amount of difference I saw and then multiply it by six, you are talking about a difference of a couple of inches and you will definitely be paying more than $150 for each of those inches.

If you are doing practical shooting, then the differences just evaporate because you will rarely be able to assume a stable enough position to appreciate the differences. Given all that, I really think it is tough to beat just your plain jane RRA SS match barrel with a Wylde chamber - or even a nice quality chrome-lined barrel.

On twist, I would really recommend 1:8 or 1:7. You will still be able to shoot 55gr and 62gr just fine; but you'll have the option if you want it. At 18" with a good match barrel, you will still probably be able to shoot the heavy stuff with a 1:9; but you'll be right on the edge of stability and may lose that ability with big temperature drops or as the barrel gets a bunch of rounds through it.

speaking of fluted barrels, should i go with a heavy fluted barrel or just a heavy barrel, what real advantages will i have with getting a fluted barrel?

The advantages of a fluted barrel are that it is a bit lighter; but we are talking a few ounces at best

i forsee that the spr upper will not be shot that much maybe 300-500rds a year, my 16" upper will see more use than that like 1000rds plus a year. i don't plan on shooting the spr at high rates of speed just slow accurate fire at longer ranges so the barrel getting heated shouldn't be a big issue for this particular upper.

Any AR15 barrel you could buy will handle that kind of shooting with ease. My Lilja barrel has 2,423 rounds on it and is just shy of a year old according to my log (not much time to shoot this past year). Check some of Zak Smith's 3-gun competition reports for an idea of what you can do even with a SS barrel (and an SS barrel will not handle heat as well as a chrome-moly or chrome-moly-vanadium barrel).
 
Bartholomew Roberts,
just the guy i was wanting to hear from, once again thank you for the great info, your the ar man!:)
ok so even with the 1x7 twist i can still shoot the cheaper umc 55gr and m855 62gr just fine but i can also shoot the heavier stuff, i didn't know that, i thought it was the lighter or the heavier, i thought you had to do one or the other, thats what i get for thinkng i guess!once again thanks and great info. i apprecitae it.

btw can you school me in what a wylde chamber is exactly? thanks again
 
I've had good luck with generic run-o-da-mill barrels from Shaw. My precision-oriented 5.56NATO rifle uses a stainless 20" fluted Shaw barrel with a 1:8 twist. Cost me all of $250.....

I'm sure that it's not a shadow of a Noveske, Lilja, Randall, etc. But it does the job pretty darn well, and left enough schekels in my pocket to buy a few other things along with it.

If you are doing practical shooting, then the differences just evaporate because you will rarely be able to assume a stable enough position to appreciate the differences.
That was my logic when I built this upper. Since I don't do a lot of benchrest shooting, I've not had cause to regret my choice.
 
Yes, you can shoot 55gr and 62gr in faster twists with no problem and very accurately as well (in fact, my SS barrel loves the Hornady 55gr TAP for accuracy).

The idea that you can't shoot lighter rounds in 1:7 twists comes from two misconceptions:

1) The round is overstabilized and this affects accuracy.

I can't say if the round is overstabilized; but I can tell you it doesn't affect accuracy in any practical fashion. Maybe a 55gr that wasn't overstabilized will group 0.1" better at 100yds; but generally not an issue.

2) The lighter bullet will spin itself apart because the twist is too fast.

This is really more about jacket thickness and bullet velocity. Really light bullets that ALSO have very thin jackets may indeed shed their jackets or spin apart (basically rounds with weight in the 40gr range). The lightest bullet I've fired through a 1:7 barrel is Winchester White Box 45gr JHPs and they did just fine.

btw can you school me in what a wylde chamber is exactly?

A Wylde chamber is basically like a 5.56mm NATO match chamber. It is a little looser than a .223 chamber for reliability but not as loose as a military 5.56mm chamber. In my experience, the Wylde chambers are very reliable while still giving great accuracy.
 
For precision shooting to 600 yards as you mentioned you may want to look at a 6.5mm Grendel barrel from Satern or Competition Shooting Sports. The 6.5 G has much better ballistics than the 5.56 out to that range and has proven itself to continually get 1/2 MOA. You would likely want to get into reloading though as factory rounds are currently $1 each until Wolf shipments arrive.

Look at wind drift:
attachment.php
 
Bartholomew Roberts,
once again thanks, great intel and a good ar barrel lesson!

Reginhild,
6.5 or the 6.8 would be nice, but i like the fact that i can use the same ammo that isn't by no means cheap but they are alot less than $1 a piece, plus avaliability of ammo is a big thing for me, i can find .223 all day long but 6.8 and 6.5 isn't the easiest thing in the world to come by. i would love to start reloading, but being in the army i don't have the room to reload in my home, that i need, but do want to in the future though.

so as of right now i will pass on the 6.5 but thanks for the info and the chart great info and i appreciate the advice anyway! thanks to all!
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top