What ccw for humid harsh conditions?

[bearcreek]

I own glocks and like them, But i want something with a safety that's easy to shoot. also what if it gets submerged in freshwater is detail stripping a must? I've noticed some guns look very difficult to detail strip.

You didn't say what size gun you want but my CZ P-01 has proven to be very corrosion resistant. I do tree removal, trimming, logging and firewood, which means that the gun is regularly exposed to copious amounts of sweat, dirt, potentially acidic sawdust, rain etc. Went from a Glock to the P-01 about a year ago and it's doing very well, better than the Glock actually. I am religious about keeping it oiled, especially in the summer time.

Edit. I have the Omega version, which can be used in DA/SA or SA with safety. I carry it DA/SA.

 

[BSA1]

It has been a few days since this was recommended;

Ballistol.

It worked well for the German Army in the wet trenches of W.W.1 and the corrosive primers of the era. Either make moose milk with it or get a aerosol can and give the internals a good hosing. Ballistol will displace the water and leave a oil film after the water dries.

 

[Jeb Stuart]

It has been a few days since this was recommended;

Ballistol.

It worked well for the German Army in the wet trenches of W.W.1 and the corrosive primers of the era. Either make moose milk with it or get a aerosol can and give the internals a good hosing. Ballistol will displace the water and leave a oil film after the water dries.

I agree and as I said, also, just wipe it down daily and each week rinse it off with hot water and dunk in a pan of Ballistol Milk. Pretty simple to do. Or just sent a go up to Robar.

 

[Labguy47]

I own a lot of Rugers, I seriously doubt they will replace a gun simply because you let it rust out. I have owned The LC9 since it first came out and then and now own the LC9S. Personally do not think they have the best coating or blueing for Rust protection. You really have to watch them.

True but I have Mr Berryhill's wonder lube, its a grease made for the space shuttle and has some extreme tolerances. It makes my guns run smooth as gun butter, and seems to work wonders on keeping corrosion at bay. Some guns run wet, others dry, just have to find what works best for yours. CLP was also widely beloved by the Marines in N. Carolina and it worked really well keeping their weapon systems rust free. I know I don't have all the answers, I can only advise on what I know. I have lived here 5 years and not seen a speck of corrosion on any of my weapons yet. Now chrome coated parts for my Harley is another matter, that struggle is real!

 

[Winkman822]

If you can be without this particular gun for a couple of weeks, having the gun refinished in Robar NP3+ is also an option and would be about the same price as a new gun. I have a Wilson Combat 1911 finished in NP3 (not NP3+) and it's outstanding.

 

[MedWheeler]

Winkman822 writes:

...having the gun refinished in Robar NP3+ is also an option and would be about the same price as a new gun.

In that scenario, I'd just spend the money on the new gun... (if I had to spend it on one or the other.) After all, who doesn't want an additional gun?

 

[Winkman822]

Winkman822 writes:



In that scenario, I'd just spend the money on the new gun... (if I had to spend it on one or the other.) After all, who doesn't want an additional gun?

Just thought I'd throw the option out there. NP3 (at least when I had my Wilson 1911 refinished) was around $350.00 for a full gun (frame, barrel, slide, internals) and if memory serves correctly, it was something like $185.00 to do the slide, barrel and internals on a polymer framed gun. Now, in fairness, this was also like eight years ago, I'm sure Robar has increased their price since that time.