TooTaxed
Member
In addition to Post #551, sawdust makes a good fluxing material.
What clever little things have you "invented or discovered" that you can share?
- Thread starter James THR
- Start date
SciFiJim
Member
Yep, sawdust for fluxing when smelting down wheel weights, candle wax for fluxing while casting.
Found the RCBS case trimmer mod on this or another forum. Not my idea but it works great with lee cutter. For those of you that use these, I kept getting a case caught in the middle of the chamfer tool. Easy fix i super glued a BB to the center of it, works great.
Not anything ingenious, but I built a holder for my scale so it doesn't touch the bench its screwed to the wall. This way i can multi task while the powder is filling, or touch the bench without throwing the scale off.
Lots of great ideas on here thanks guys
Not anything ingenious, but I built a holder for my scale so it doesn't touch the bench its screwed to the wall. This way i can multi task while the powder is filling, or touch the bench without throwing the scale off.
Lots of great ideas on here thanks guys
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Franco
Member
Help keep powder dry by stapling a heavy piece of thread to a silica pack (can purchase them cheap at silicagelpacks.com and similar places). Hang the silica pack in your powder can with the string hanging out (like a cup of tea) and screw on the lid.
Clark
Member
I have 25 bore sizes to clean:
17HMR
19 Badger
.223
243
25acp
257RAI
260,
270
7mmMag
.308
7.62x54R
8x57mm
338 WinMag
9x19mm,
357mag,
35Whelen
40sw
.410
44 mag
45acp
45/70
20 ga
16 ga
12 ga
10 ga
So when a bore brush wears out, it becomes a hand me down.
Someone's father in law died and I got a huge quantity of 8mm Bronze bore brushes.
Those brushes went from 8mm -> .311 -> .308 -> 7mm -> 6.5mm.
I put the dial calipers on the bore bristles, and with very little clamping force from the caliper jaws, I get a measurement. If that measurement is not larger than the groove diameter, it gets handed down to a smaller caliber.
It seems like it only takes 5 strokes for the brush to get too small.
17HMR
19 Badger
.223
243
25acp
257RAI
260,
270
7mmMag
.308
7.62x54R
8x57mm
338 WinMag
9x19mm,
357mag,
35Whelen
40sw
.410
44 mag
45acp
45/70
20 ga
16 ga
12 ga
10 ga
So when a bore brush wears out, it becomes a hand me down.
Someone's father in law died and I got a huge quantity of 8mm Bronze bore brushes.
Those brushes went from 8mm -> .311 -> .308 -> 7mm -> 6.5mm.
I put the dial calipers on the bore bristles, and with very little clamping force from the caliper jaws, I get a measurement. If that measurement is not larger than the groove diameter, it gets handed down to a smaller caliber.
It seems like it only takes 5 strokes for the brush to get too small.
Corkster
Member
This is a 1/2"copper cap that I drilled a hole in, inserted an 8x32 1/2" machine screw from the inside, attached a nut on the outside, and stuffed it with steel wool. It fits my RCBS Case Prep Station and I use it to smooth the case mouths, it works great. I let it turn about ten (10) revolutions.
Attachments
Taroman
Member
Lee Classic Turret Ideas
Thanks for all the great ideas, here are a couple of mine:
Recently, I got a new Lee Classic Turret press. As I prime off the press, I removed the priming arm from the ram. Of course, this allowed the odd spent primer to jump out of the ram. I fixed this with a small piece of aluminum sheet, bent into a V and pressed into the slot in the ram. No more primers on the floor.
A feature I really like is the removable turret plate. With one for each caliber, there's no screwing/unscrewing dies. The downside is that the die spacing is quite close. I switched to the (cheap) 1" Dillon die lock nuts. These leave more space between dies and are easy to set with the Dillon wrench.
To remove case lube from rifle dies, I place them on a thin cotton dish towel (Dollar Store) then bundle them up and spray the outside of the towel with denatured alcohol. Scramble the cases around in the towel a bit and dump the out. The alcohol evaporates almost instantly and the cases are ready to go.
More later,
Thanks for all the great ideas, here are a couple of mine:
Recently, I got a new Lee Classic Turret press. As I prime off the press, I removed the priming arm from the ram. Of course, this allowed the odd spent primer to jump out of the ram. I fixed this with a small piece of aluminum sheet, bent into a V and pressed into the slot in the ram. No more primers on the floor.
A feature I really like is the removable turret plate. With one for each caliber, there's no screwing/unscrewing dies. The downside is that the die spacing is quite close. I switched to the (cheap) 1" Dillon die lock nuts. These leave more space between dies and are easy to set with the Dillon wrench.
To remove case lube from rifle dies, I place them on a thin cotton dish towel (Dollar Store) then bundle them up and spray the outside of the towel with denatured alcohol. Scramble the cases around in the towel a bit and dump the out. The alcohol evaporates almost instantly and the cases are ready to go.
More later,
GMFWoodchuck
member
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2010
- Messages
- 137
My tip is more of a process rather than a tool. It works with my single stage press. I suppose it could work with the non indexing turret presses, but I don't have one so I'm not sure.
Basically I take whatever loading tray I'm using.
1. Put all of the spent rounds primer side up.
2. As you decap and resize them put them primer side down.
3 As you prime them put them primer side up.
4. As you charge them put them primer side down (duh)
5. Then seat the bullets.
6. You're done.
The flipping of the primers lets me know whether or not the cartridge is down with that particular stage or not so it reduces the change of wasting time re-decaping something that's not there or double/zero charged shells.
Basically I take whatever loading tray I'm using.
1. Put all of the spent rounds primer side up.
2. As you decap and resize them put them primer side down.
3 As you prime them put them primer side up.
4. As you charge them put them primer side down (duh)
5. Then seat the bullets.
6. You're done.
The flipping of the primers lets me know whether or not the cartridge is down with that particular stage or not so it reduces the change of wasting time re-decaping something that's not there or double/zero charged shells.
LiveLife
Member
Not sure if this was mentioned before (I did a search and nothing came up).
For load development/testing at the range, I use 8x11 copy paper and bingo dauber to make the round dot (saves on using target stickers).
The bingo daubers are cheap (~$1 at Walmart/dollar stores), come in different colors, and they will last a lifetime.
I keep two different colors in my range bag to differentiate variables: powder, OAL, charge, etc.
With 3 hole punch, I can keep the 8x11 targets in a binder for future reference. On top right of the paper, I date/comment on barrel/gun used/bullet type and weight/powder and charge/OAL along with felt recoil, accuracy from rapid fire/double taps, slide cycling, where spent cases landed, etc.):
For load development/testing at the range, I use 8x11 copy paper and bingo dauber to make the round dot (saves on using target stickers).
The bingo daubers are cheap (~$1 at Walmart/dollar stores), come in different colors, and they will last a lifetime.
I keep two different colors in my range bag to differentiate variables: powder, OAL, charge, etc.
With 3 hole punch, I can keep the 8x11 targets in a binder for future reference. On top right of the paper, I date/comment on barrel/gun used/bullet type and weight/powder and charge/OAL along with felt recoil, accuracy from rapid fire/double taps, slide cycling, where spent cases landed, etc.):
GMFWoodchuck
member
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2010
- Messages
- 137
I like the target idead bds. I will try it out for my 22lrs.
sonick808
Member
the value in this thread is immeasurable. WOW. Thanks to all for sharing. I'm still fairly new so I haven't developed anything notable but you can be CERTAIN i'm soaking this thread up.
OK I do have one thing to share but it's regional, sorry.
For Phoenix people: If you didn't know, Dillon HQ is in Scottsdale. They have a storefront FULL of reloading supplies that could very well save you some shipping costs. So, my recommendation is that anyone in the valley of the sun check out Dillon's store, and don't forget your wallet! Nice to buy my Rainier bullets without having to ship or wait.
OK I do have one thing to share but it's regional, sorry.
For Phoenix people: If you didn't know, Dillon HQ is in Scottsdale. They have a storefront FULL of reloading supplies that could very well save you some shipping costs. So, my recommendation is that anyone in the valley of the sun check out Dillon's store, and don't forget your wallet! Nice to buy my Rainier bullets without having to ship or wait.
Make your Dillon Super Swage 600 AUTOMATIC! All you need is a length of string, an elastic and a large washer of some kind.
First make a loop of the string that goes from the nut on the end of the case holder to the handle. I tied my string off at the handle end. At the handle end you will need a washer of some kind for the string to sit on. I used a rubber washer from a garden hose.
You'll need to find the correct length by trial & error, to fine tune the length simply twist the string under the swager like so. Also, the set screw in the upper left corner of the swager in this picture, back it off so the case holder moves freely.
Next you'll need to secure an elastic in a manner like below.
This is where you will need to fine tune the relation of the string and elastic so the swager operates properly. If the string is too tight it can cause the case holder to come down to late and the swaging head will ram into the case head. If the elastic is too strong it won't allow the case holder to come up very high. Adjust the number of twists in both the string and elastic until you find a nice balance.
Next re-mount your Super Swage, but this time you will need to keep it off of your bench slightly as not to inpede the movement of the string. I used three large nuts.
Now test it out.
As you operate the handle the case holder is pulled down into position by the elastic before the swaging head makes contact with it.
Once swaged the case holder will pop back up into the original position pulled by the string, all you need to do is replace the swaged case with a crimped case and repeat!
Here is a video of it working:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LaZHeSUqQbk
First make a loop of the string that goes from the nut on the end of the case holder to the handle. I tied my string off at the handle end. At the handle end you will need a washer of some kind for the string to sit on. I used a rubber washer from a garden hose.
You'll need to find the correct length by trial & error, to fine tune the length simply twist the string under the swager like so. Also, the set screw in the upper left corner of the swager in this picture, back it off so the case holder moves freely.
Next you'll need to secure an elastic in a manner like below.
This is where you will need to fine tune the relation of the string and elastic so the swager operates properly. If the string is too tight it can cause the case holder to come down to late and the swaging head will ram into the case head. If the elastic is too strong it won't allow the case holder to come up very high. Adjust the number of twists in both the string and elastic until you find a nice balance.
Next re-mount your Super Swage, but this time you will need to keep it off of your bench slightly as not to inpede the movement of the string. I used three large nuts.
Now test it out.
As you operate the handle the case holder is pulled down into position by the elastic before the swaging head makes contact with it.
Once swaged the case holder will pop back up into the original position pulled by the string, all you need to do is replace the swaged case with a crimped case and repeat!
Here is a video of it working:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LaZHeSUqQbk
Roccobro
Member
That is awesome...
Justin
Justin
Kentucky_Rifleman
Member
http://improvingmyselfconfessional.blogspot.com/2010/01/printable-targets.html
Here are some copyright-free targets I designed. They're free to download and print. Print one and photocopy for 5 cent targets. The shading is visible under 9x magnification at 100 yards and still shows bullet holes nicely.
Augment them by using light-colored post-it notes for higher visibility at longer ranges. The orange shows up well and shows bullet holes well if you're using a spotting scope.
Enjoy!
KR
Here are some copyright-free targets I designed. They're free to download and print. Print one and photocopy for 5 cent targets. The shading is visible under 9x magnification at 100 yards and still shows bullet holes nicely.
Augment them by using light-colored post-it notes for higher visibility at longer ranges. The orange shows up well and shows bullet holes well if you're using a spotting scope.
Enjoy!
KR
sxenopho
Member
Pimp my Range Bag
Made myself a suspensioned gear carry-all / stool combination.
http://www.lambdacode.com/reloading/docs/range_bag/index.html
Made myself a suspensioned gear carry-all / stool combination.
http://www.lambdacode.com/reloading/docs/range_bag/index.html
Clark
Member
41Colt,
I am impressed, not with you, but with how stupid I was to not think of that.
I have used my 600, and never had clue.
I am impressed, not with you, but with how stupid I was to not think of that.
I have used my 600, and never had clue.
ole farmerbuck
Member
On the Hornady LNL AP, lots of times when the shell plate advances it shakes powder out of the case that was just powder charged. I've found that if i have a case ready to put on the shell plate as soon as the loaded case ejects and before the plate advances all the way, you can keep the plate from snapping into place and spilling powder. Hard to explain what i mean but it sure works!
curlywolf
Member
Brass cleaning Media
I found the best cleaning media after using walnut or corncob for thirty years.
It's long grain white rice..No kidding. The shape oif the rice grains cleans the inside of the case and the primer pocket, too, and it doesn't seem to plug the primer holes. I bought a 25# bag of rice 6 years ago, and I haven't even used half to date.
Rice has become more expensive, but is still cheaper than regular media. If you put 1/2 a drier sheet in the tumbler, there is almost no dust. One word of caution..if you use a liquid compound to make the media work better, be careful how much you use, or you'll have rice pudding. (Ask me how I know this fact) Let the tumbler run for a while so all the liquid additive is absorbed, then clean away!
I have found that the dirtier it gets, the better it cleans. Oh, and if you don't have anything else to eat....Try that with walnut or corncob!
CW
I found the best cleaning media after using walnut or corncob for thirty years.
It's long grain white rice..No kidding. The shape oif the rice grains cleans the inside of the case and the primer pocket, too, and it doesn't seem to plug the primer holes. I bought a 25# bag of rice 6 years ago, and I haven't even used half to date.
Rice has become more expensive, but is still cheaper than regular media. If you put 1/2 a drier sheet in the tumbler, there is almost no dust. One word of caution..if you use a liquid compound to make the media work better, be careful how much you use, or you'll have rice pudding. (Ask me how I know this fact) Let the tumbler run for a while so all the liquid additive is absorbed, then clean away!
I have found that the dirtier it gets, the better it cleans. Oh, and if you don't have anything else to eat....Try that with walnut or corncob!
CW
Taroman
Member
Lee Trimmer - Process Improvement
We all know the little LEE case trimmers. I have used them for years. Easy to shape up a few cases. Recently, I acquired a large batch of military 30-06 cases that needed to be processed. Figuring to speed things up, I tried using a drill to power the Lee. It came with a hex stub on the base to fit a chuck and hold the case while you hold the cutter part and buzz away.
That concept failed in execution, as the long cases tried to wobble around and the hand holding the cutter gets the sharp shavings.
Seems Lee got it bass ackwards..
So, I discovered the cutter stub just fit the chuck of my 1/2" battery drill. Hold the base and trim away. Much better, but that little base really wasn't made to be hand-friendly.
So, I made up a little extension that makes a better hand-hold, and then smoothed the sharp edges on the shell holder part. Much nicer, quicker too:
We all know the little LEE case trimmers. I have used them for years. Easy to shape up a few cases. Recently, I acquired a large batch of military 30-06 cases that needed to be processed. Figuring to speed things up, I tried using a drill to power the Lee. It came with a hex stub on the base to fit a chuck and hold the case while you hold the cutter part and buzz away.
That concept failed in execution, as the long cases tried to wobble around and the hand holding the cutter gets the sharp shavings.
Seems Lee got it bass ackwards..
So, I discovered the cutter stub just fit the chuck of my 1/2" battery drill. Hold the base and trim away. Much better, but that little base really wasn't made to be hand-friendly.
So, I made up a little extension that makes a better hand-hold, and then smoothed the sharp edges on the shell holder part. Much nicer, quicker too:
MarshallDodge
Member
Nice, I like it!
I have been using my drill press to do something similar. Chuck the cutter and set the press so that the gauge bottoms on the drill press bed. You don't even need to use the base.
I have been using my drill press to do something similar. Chuck the cutter and set the press so that the gauge bottoms on the drill press bed. You don't even need to use the base.
Tom609
Member
Really cheap bore light...
This is a great thread with some great ideas. I happened to come across a good one on the CMP website. They were talking about all the rifle barrels that the armorers had to look down and nothing worked better when inspecting the bore than a plain old white plastic knife. Use it like you would your thumbnail to reflect light down the barrel. You'll be amazed.
This is a great thread with some great ideas. I happened to come across a good one on the CMP website. They were talking about all the rifle barrels that the armorers had to look down and nothing worked better when inspecting the bore than a plain old white plastic knife. Use it like you would your thumbnail to reflect light down the barrel. You'll be amazed.
ric426
Member
Lock n Load AP spring path mod
I was having trouble with .38 special cases tipping in as they arrived at station 5 and not lining up with the seating die. If I didn't watch them closely and guide them in by hand sometimes the bullet would tip as it went in and jam things up (and ruin a perfectly good bullet). I realized that the retaining spring was dropping below the rim of the case too early at station 5 and causing the case to tip in. I fabricated a small piece of steel to delay the drop point of the spring, fixed it in place with a bit of JB Weld and problem solved!
Update: I found that with the extension that long, the ejection wasn't as reliable, so I took my Dremel with a carbide bit and cut it back by 1/3. The cases still don't tip and the ejection is good.
I was having trouble with .38 special cases tipping in as they arrived at station 5 and not lining up with the seating die. If I didn't watch them closely and guide them in by hand sometimes the bullet would tip as it went in and jam things up (and ruin a perfectly good bullet). I realized that the retaining spring was dropping below the rim of the case too early at station 5 and causing the case to tip in. I fabricated a small piece of steel to delay the drop point of the spring, fixed it in place with a bit of JB Weld and problem solved!
Update: I found that with the extension that long, the ejection wasn't as reliable, so I took my Dremel with a carbide bit and cut it back by 1/3. The cases still don't tip and the ejection is good.
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I discovered how to estimate maximum pressure in 9mm pistols by measuring case expansion with a dial caliper. The assumption is factory 9mm ammo is loaded to maximum pressure, therefore average factory case expansion is used to establish the max. 9mm cases are tapered, as are 9mm chambers. The higher the pressure, the more the case expands. In my experience with over a dozen 9mm pistols, 9mm cases tend to expand to .391" in standard loadings, more with +P. Federal 9mm +P+ expands to .394"/.395" in my guns. Of course it is best to use virgin brass for this, as reloaded brass suffers from work hardening and may give a false reading. This also does not work for straight-walled cases as they are, well, straight and will not expand more with increasing pressure. Why? Because the chamber is straight as well. I've been doing this for over five years now and the results are consistent and repeatable. Pipsqueak loads expand to about .388", moderate loads to about .390", and full-power loads to .391" or more. I stop at .391" because I don't need the additional power. I have loaded the 9mm to Major power factor, but the case expansion was in excess of .396" and primer pockets loosened with just one firing. It works for competition, but I'm not going there again. So, next time you are wondering how hot your latest recipe is, compare your case expansion to factory ammo fired in your gun. No, it is not perfect, but it is alot more reliable than looking at the "flatness" of primers.
