What do I use to clean nickel?

[Hotshot10]

I usually use Hoppe's Elite to clean my blued and stainless guns. However, I have no idea whether that will hurt my nickel revolver's finish. What should I use to clean it? What should I not use? Thanks in advance.

 

[ColtPythonElite]

You want to avoid any solvent with ammonia.

 

[Steve CT]

I use Break Free CLP.

 

[CraigC]

BreakFree CLP. Fact is, all they need is a wipedown after shooting. Don't overdo it.

 

[bannockburn]

Hotshot10

I try to avoid using any sort of copper solvent on my nickel plated guns. The primary reason being that typically copper plate is first applied to the gun before the nickel plate can be added. This is because with certain metals, nickel plate will not directly adhere to the bare metal surface. When you use a copper solvent, like Hoppes No. 9, it can get into the underlying copper plating and cause the nickel plate to peel or flake off the gun.

Some people will say that they have been using various solvents on their plated guns for years and have never had any problems with the nickel or chrome plating coming off. I however have seen it happen first hand and prefer not to take a chance with it. I use Breakfree CLP to clean plated guns.

 

[SharpsDressedMan]

I like Remoil. Very mild, and cleans it enough. Going beyond and using metal polish or cleaner to remove the carbon build up is probably asking too much, because repeated cleaning that way will eventually wear off the nickel.

 

[snooperman]

+1 on what ColtPythonElite said, most of the mild solvents WITHOUT AMMONIA.

 

[Hotshot10]

Sounds like Break Free CLP is the way to go. Does that clean copper/lead from the bore as well?

 

[bsms]

I've got a nickel-plated S&W 22 that has been cleaned with Hoppes #9 for over 30 years now with no ill effects. You only have to worry about ammonia if you have a copper base under the nickel plate, which S&Ws do not. If the gun isn't a S&W, or the nickel isn't original, then you will have to research it further.

 

[Steve CT]

Yes, but you really want to keep after the bore so you don't get a lot of buildup. Actually, not a problem for me, mine is a Dan Wesson, and I can just pull the barrel for cleaning with something heavier duty.

 

[ColtPythonElite]

I do little more than run a patch or two thru a handgun that gets jacketed ammo feed to it and have never had enough copper build up to worry about....FWIW, I have one revolver approaching 30k rounds.

 

[JellyJar]

Last time I used CLP I broke out in a rash so bad that I would rather that all my guns turn into heaps of red rust before I ever use it again. Perhaps this won't happen to you but be careful. Wear gloves and don't clean your guns in your bedroom next to your bed! :banghead:

Could Remoil cause someone to break out into a rash?

 

[ColtPythonElite]

I get Rem Oil on my hands daily and have never rashed up.

 

[Sport45]

I'd use the same stuff I use to clean all my guns, Ed's Red.

I do hope to have a nickel revolver some day...

 

[ZVP]

Break Free also works great to protect from Black Powder residues.
ZVP

 

[BCRider]

Jellyjar, if you broke out from using one product there is simply no way of knowing if other products will have the same effect on you.

Or it may just be that your skin is simply sensitive now to solvents and petroleum oils due to a period of over exposure. In such a case any number of things which would not normally bother you could be able to produce another breakout for quite a period of time to come.

First and foremost you should invest in a big box of disposable nitrile gloves and use them any time you are using any sort of solvent or even gun oils for the future. Use them until you get to where you've oiled the outside and wiped off the excess. That should prevent any sort of skin contact and the associated skin issues.

 

[rikman]

How about on a CZ 75B Dual Tone with the Satin Nickel frame? I called CZ today and left a message but no call back. I've only been using Breakfree CLP on my S&W Nickel Model 10.....

 

[bsms]

I used Hoppes #9 for 30 years on my nickel S&W 22 because I had never heard of doing anything else. It suffered no harm. That said, there are lots of products out there now where it cannot be an issue...so why not? Nowadays, I clean with Hoppes #9, then spray a bit of Remoil on and wipe the gun down. But if anyone has a worry, why not just use Remoil?

 

[Ala Dan]

My Secret -

Simichrome a product from Germany; found in most automotive
supply houses, or bike shops. Its what most biker's use on their chrome
on motorcycles. It does contain a very fine abrasive; but it you use it
the way it should be used, well you won't have any problems. Don't
bear down hard like a "wild man" when polishing. Very little elbow
grease is needed; let the product do its job~! Its like Brylcream, "a
little dab will do you". Shelf life is long, approximately 10 years; cost
is 'bout $7.00 per tube, also available from Highland Woodworking~!

I use it to clean the gunk off the face of the cylinder; and to clean any
excess powder residue off of the firearm~! My nickle firearms show
NO signs of any surface scratch marks.

 

[BCRider]

Chrome on motorcycles is a LOT harder than the nickel on a revolver. I would suggest you reconsider using it on your nickel plated gun because even used "lightly" it is still cutting into the nickel layer and each time you use it the nickel is a little bit more thin.

 

[ColtPythonElite]

Chrome polish is a misnomer. Chrome can't be polished like brass or aluminum. It can only be cleaned. Rubbing on it will not make it shine any more than it originally did. I have motorcycles that I have had for 10-20 years and have never polished their chrome. Still looks like new.

As for nickel, if it doesn't need the tarnish/patina/verdigris or whatever you call it cleaned off or fine scratches removed, stay away from it with abrasives like Simichrome.

 

[adelbridge]

automotive paste wax makes mine look the best, it fills in the micro scratches

 

[Hotshot10]

I've got a nickel-plated S&W 22 that has been cleaned with Hoppes #9 for over 30 years now with no ill effects. You only have to worry about ammonia if you have a copper base under the nickel plate, which S&Ws do not.

Really? I did not know that. I'm just really leery of cleaning a near-mint Model 27 with anything...ha.

 

[ColtPythonElite]

You don't have to worry about cleaning with a ammonia based product if you are 100% certain the plating has no cracks, thin spots, ect....those are the places ammonia gets underneath and causes trouble.

 

[bsms]

If it is a S&W factory job, there is no copper underneath for Hoppes to interact with...but if it makes a person feel better, use CLP or Remoil or any one of a number of modern products. I used to use Hoppes with everything. Now I only use it if things are really dirty. Otherwise I use Remoil. I only brought it up because I've got 30+ years of data on one S&W.

Other manufacturers, or a refinished gun...don't know.