What do these marks mean??

[74man]

Today, I was reloading a couple of hundred .38 special with Berry's Flat Point bullets, using Vihtavouri N320 powder. I noticed when reloading the S & B cases they had a ring around the case about 9/16" up from the base and the R.P. cases had a ring about 13/16" up from the base, are these rings just to stiffen the case or do these rings mean something?
Also, the Vihtavouri load data said the the COL was 1.496". I looked in other manuals but couldn't find a load for Berry's Flat Point bullet and almost all the 125gr. lead flat nose had a much different COL measurement. I stuck with the Vihtavouri measurement of 1.496" and some maybe a little less but all above 1.480". Did I do right with sticking with the Vihtavouri load data for that specific bullet? Thanks for any and all information, and opinions>

 

[.38 Special]

You most likely are looking at crimps used by manufacturers to keep the bullet from seating too deeply into the case.

As for OAL, a few hundredths aren't at all important, at least in this application.

 

[Ohen Cepel]

Was the ring after you sized them? May be from the sizing die. Hard to answer some things without a pic or seeing the item in question.

Won't find load data for a lot of small bullet makers unless they put it out, which is rare.

 

[Seedy Character]

IF I am understanding what you are asking
The ring is bullet setting depth. It helps with bullet getting too deep and elevating pressures.

Bullet set back is real
The ring, i feel, is more gimmick than solution.

 

[LaneP]

If the rings were there before you sized them, they are most likely factory crimp rings to aid preventing bullet setback and/or recoil pulling. Not uncommon on factory ammo.

 

[GeoDudeFlorida]

There was a pretty lengthy thread about this not too long ago. The question was whether these were genuine wadcutter cases or if the crimp even mattered. Do a search for wadcutter cases and see if it pops up.

Also, I’m not familiar with the 125gr. Berry’s but from the pictures I’d say that ridge where the conical part turns into the driving band would make a good place to seat for a slight taper crimp.
Just an observation.

 

[74man]

The marks look mostly like knurled rings around the cases. Only on the S&B and the R.P. cases. I am going to do a search like suggested. thanks.

 

[Walkalong]

The marks look mostly like knurled rings around the cases. Only on the S&B and the R.P. cases. I am going to do a search like suggested. thanks.

They are harmless, ignore them.

 

[Bazoo]

They are called cannelure rings. They are there to provide a ledge for the bullets to set on when newly loaded. After firing and sizing and expanding, they get ironed out and can be ignored. After a couple times reloaded they nearly disappear.

 

[74man]

I loaded them with 125 grain flat point Berry's Bullets, 6.1 grains of Vihtavouri N 320 powder with a slight taper crimp. Will these be Ok to shoot or should I take them apart and only use Semi Wad Cutter Bullets since the cases came with wad cutter rounds??

 

[GeoDudeFlorida]

I loaded them with 125 grain flat point Berry's Bullets, 6.1 grains of Vihtavouri N 320 powder with a slight taper crimp. Will these be Ok to shoot or should I take them apart and only use Semi Wad Cutter Bullets since the cases came with wad cutter rounds??

@Walkalong is right. Ignore them and load like any other cases. If I recall the general consensus has always been that firing the first time makes the rings irrelevant. As long as your powder charge - 6.1gr etc - is a starting load or not more than 10% above minimum you should be fine.

 

[Bazoo]

I'm not familiar with your powder and charge.

You can load any bullet shape in a case regardless of cannelure position or lack thereof. If you have wadcutter brass as it's called (because it has a cannelure and was loaded with wadcutter bullets originally), you can reload that brass with any shape or style bullet without issue.

 

[Cheesemaker]

A comment on Berry's OAL - they usually post this on their website. always check there first:
https://www.berrysmfg.com/product/bp-38-357-125gr-fp and go to the "Loading Tips" tab.
For the 125gr FP:

 

[Rule3]

If I remember you stated you don't have a smart phone or a camera. But if you can reload you certainly can get a cheap camera and post pictures.
Life is so much easier with a picture.

 

[fxvr5]

I loaded them with 125 grain flat point Berry's Bullets, 6.1 grains of Vihtavouri N 320 powder with a slight taper crimp. Will these be Ok to shoot or should I take them apart and only use Semi Wad Cutter Bullets since the cases came with wad cutter rounds??

74 man, your load data is fine. There is no need to take them apart.

You can load any bullet in your brass, even though it came from the factory with a wadcutter bullet. In general, you can load any bullet in any brass. There are only rare exceptions, and this is not one of them.

Since these bullets do not have a crimp groove, you're kinda forced to rely on what crimp you can give them without risk of stripping off the plating. You're probably going to be okay with your taper crimp, but as Unclenick on the Firing Line noted, there is some risk of bullet creep when shooting full power loads in a light gun. The only way you'll know if this is a problem in your gun, is to shoot them. Lots of people shoot Berry's plated bullets in their revolvers with no issues. Blast away and let us know how it goes.

 

[mdi]

The cannelures used to be more common than they are today. Some were (are?) common on factory wadcutter ammo, some had two cannelures, and many were just for identification. As Walkalong mentioned, ignore them (I started reloading 38 Special in 1969 and have no recollection of any problem reloading cannelured brass.)...

 

[Mk-211]

If you find that you have problems with bullets being setback/creep, there are tools to redo the cannelure.

They have them to do them on your brass and projos. It's very simple to do and takes very little time.

 

[Skgreen]

FWIW, Brass with a cannelure/crimp band or 2 does not necessarily mean it was loaded with a SWC.
Aguila still uses them on some rounds:
https://www.aguilaammo.com/ammunition/handgun?

 

[halfmoonclip]

Good advice here.
Bullet setback or bullet pull shouldn't be an issue in a steel revolver. Really light revos or self loading pistols are another proposition.
Remember those cannelure grooves in the first .38s loaded, with handcast 'bean can' lead wadcutters that I cast myself.
Had a buddy who taught me the ropes of reloading; lacking that, don't be afraid to pick our brains here.
Moon

 

[1976B.L.Johns.]

They are harmless, ignore them.

I'll add to this...... Yeah, what Walkalong said.

I have loaded .44 mag that has the same headstamp but there are four different cannelures around the brass case
One or two or one at a different location. Or none at all.
Being anal, they are separated but do not mean a pinch of hits. (You move the "s".)
If loaded enough times and survive, those will almost disappear.

 

[mdi]

As far as set back or crimp jumping; I haven't loaded non cannelure/crimp groove bullet in any revolver handload that I can remember. All bullets (95% cast) have been seated to the crimp groove/cannelure and roll, profile or collet crimped. Can't remember any bullets "jumping crimp" either (even my 44 Mag. T-Rex killer loads; max loads of WC820 under a cast 255 gr RNFP)...

 

[Englishmn]

The bullet jump I witnessed was on a s&w air weight 38 spl with blaser aluminum cased ammo.
After 3 rounds the cylinder was jammed by the last 2 bullets.