What Do You Clean Your Weapon With

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Take my advice and throw away all that gun cleaning crapola and go with Ed's Red. I made up a 5 gallon bucket and it is better than any commerical product - and cheaper! I mixed it up according to this formula - there are viarants. Google it.

2 Gallons of low oder mineral sprits
1 Gallon of Kearosene
1 gallon of automatic tranny fluid
1 gallon of Acetone.

Just let is soak for a few minutes and use a nylon brush to brush the junk away.

I have heard this formula works really good in a parts washer.
 
Hoppes doesnt do much for leading in the barrel of my 637... but another vote for Hoppes #9 and CLP, thats pretty much all I use except Windex when im shooting corrosive ammo or blackpowder.
 
Take my advice and throw away all that gun cleaning crapola and go with Ed's Red. I made up a 5 gallon bucket and it is better than any commerical product - and cheaper! I mixed it up according to this formula - there are viarants. Google it.

2 Gallons of low oder mineral sprits
1 Gallon of Kearosene
1 gallon of automatic tranny fluid
1 gallon of Acetone.

Just let is soak for a few minutes and use a nylon brush to brush the junk away.

I have heard this formula works really good in a parts washer.


I just bought a parts washer. I will have to try this out.
 
OH, Yikes PressCheck. I'm going to assume that is a joke.

Hoppes #9 for general cleaning after shooting and handling. I also will use Hoppe's Copper Solvent on occasion after I have fired quite a few rounds. I soak a patch and stand the rifle on end on a rag and put the patch in the chamber to let it soak down the rifling. After that, I clean and scrub. This is not a common cleaning, but when I do, I definitely see the green come out.
 
Somebody care to explain to me how accuracy goes "down hill" from CLP use?
CLP works to get out burnt powder.

As a copper solvent it leaves much to be desired and as a lead remover it is totally useless.

Want to remove powder and protect a bore? Use CLP.

Want to remove lead and/or copper then use a solvent that works for the fouling you wish to remove otherwise it'll build up over time and accuracy will suffer - especially with leading.

Personally - I'm a fan of Butch's Bore shine. Gets out all powder fouling, most copper and most lead. Though if I really want to get out lead I use copper wool.
 
I tend to believe the military's conclusion about cleaning and lubricating...... Compared to a poster whose sharp remarks are based more on opinion then hard research.

Okay - that's just rich...

Son, I shoot benchrest. Fairly seriously. If something doesn't cut copper, it doesn't go in the box. In fact, I don't think I've EVER seen a bottle of that tacticool breakfree stuff at a benchrest match - because it's not really that good of a cleaner.

The Army isn't concerned about accuracy. The Army is concerned about functionality and slingling large quantities of lead in the general direction of Achmed...

What causes accuracy to deteriorate is the copper plating that builds up over time. From shot #1. If your solvent doesn't remove copper, it doesn't work. The highly vaunted chrome-plated barrel doesn't improve accuracy - it just keeps stuff from sticking. As much. For a while. Ever look at the throat area of one of your rifles with a bore scope? It can be downright scary.

(guys who shoot cast lead - well, there are other solvents that work nicely - just so it gets the lead out... And I love Ed's Red for shotgunning.)

The ritual:

I start the day by flushing the trigger group from above with a bit of lighter fluid (per instructions from a guy named Arnold...).

Put rifle in cleaning stand. Insert bore guide. Run three patches VERY soaked with Butch's Bore Shine. Then give it 10 strokes with a bronze brush, squirting BBS in occasionally. Let it set while I load (10-15 minutes). Then three more patches soaked with BBS, 2-3 dry patches, pull the bore guide, swab out the chamber with a .45 swab, walk to the line, lube the bolt lugs, cocking area and the back of the receiver with a good high-pressure grease, and try to put all five in a little hole.

After an agg, I'll usually give it a fast Sweet's treatment. And after the day, usually a little JB or USP.
 
Gunzilla has been the best for me. Cleans, lubricates and protects and is absolutely non-toxic.
Len
 
I will also use carb cleaner for blasting stuff clean and follow up with Break Free LP.

May I recommend brake cleaner instead of carb cleaner? Carb cleaner tends to dissolve rubber and embrittle plastic components. Has also softened wood finishes.

Brake cleaner is just as effective as a cleaner but does not destroy rubber or plastic. I'd still rather not get it on a nice wood stock, though.

For me, Hoppes or Shooter's Choice for bore cleaning, Eezox as a CLP. I'm just geting into reloading with lead boolits, so I may be in the market for something more effective on lead...
 
...

For light, in-between major cleanings, I use EEZOX, and for major cleaning, I use M-Pro7 oil, cleaner, and copper solvents.


Ls
 
Hoppe's 'ol #9 to clean lead and powder residue, and Sweet's 7.62 for copper fouling. Lube/protect with Breakfree LP or Rem Oil. ;)
 
If something doesn't cut copper, it doesn't go in the box
Bogie is right.

Butches Bore Shine sees a lot of use at benchrest matches because it works very well on copper, carbon, and powder fouling. It will keep your rifle shooting little bitty groups all day.

I like to use Bore Techs Eliminator after a days shooting, or anytime I think I am getting some copper build up, because it just melts the stuff like magic. I think it works as well as Sweets and the other ammonia based copper solvents, and it won't harm you.

A couple of earlier posters are right about CLP. Great stuff for keeping a rifle working. Not all that great at getting a barrel squeaky clean.

I like Butches Bore Shine, Shooters Choice and TM Solution. All very good products. TM Solution seems to get powder fouling better than the others. Seems too. It's non petroleum based and Ammonia free.

For copper any of the ammonia based solvents will work fine, but as I said, I prefer Bore Techs Eliminator.

Lead is a whole nother story. I have some stuff called Marine Pal that does a great job. It is one of the best penetrating oils I have ever used.
 
The TM stuff is really liked by a lot of the rimfire competitors... Not as much by the centerfire folks...

FWIW (disclosure time): I knew Butch Fisher (the guy who developed Butch's Bore Shine) and I know Tom Meredith.

I also know the guy who came up with Shooter's Choice, but I can't remember his name right now...
 
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