What do you use for choke tube lubricant?

[Random 8]

I use a Moly based spray lube that I get from work. One can seems to last forever, and it really stays where you put it. This is also used on any firearm product where grease would be called for such as slide rails, bolt carriers, etc. It is a Zep product. I prefer it to lubriplate, even in the M1 Garand.

The downside is that it will stain anything it comes in contact with black.

 

[George P]

I shoot sporting clays at least twice a month and always 100 rounds per session. I clean my choke tubes while they are installed in the barrel. I find the location of the choke tube threads has quite a bit to do with how often I clean the threads of the tube and barrel. Beretta chokes and the Browning DS chokes have threads that are closer to the muzzle and seem less inclined to foul with powder residue. Remington chokes have threads at the other end (closer to the juncture of the barrel and the start of the choke tube). They seem more easily fouled. I clean these barrels and choke threads more frequently for this reason. I always re-lube the choke threads after cleaning the barrel with the choke installed. If I notice any resistance in re-installing the choke I pull it and thoroughly clean the threads on the choke and barrel. What I will change going forward is the lube depending on the way I will use the gun. If I’m going to get into a higher than normal volume shooting session or shoot heavy magnum loads, I’m going to switch the the copper anti-seize grease I got from Brownells. Otherwise I’m going with one of the synthetic greases or RIG as opposed to the more expensive choke tube lubes.

I want to thank everyone for sharing your thoughts and advice with me. Very helpful as always!

As long as you clean them, whatever you're using should work just fine. The oil or grease is there to prevent the metal from seizing. Remember many times the choke tubes are made form something different than the barrels - the biggest difference is with Mullers ceramic coated aluminum. Cleaning the threads on both is the key, especially if the skirt seal isn't 100% perfect (which it usually isn't)

 

[Mostly Lead]

I use Tetra Gun Grease 90% of the time.. but only because that's what I'm typically using on the gun. If something else was already open and on the bench, I'd use whatever was there.

 

[mnrivrat]

Never-seize . (they may have changed it to Anti-seize) . That said I only have one gun with choke tubes. When I built it I made it to accept choke tubed because I happen to have a rifled choke to fit it.
Only regular shotgun I still own is a 20 gauge 1100 (soft recoil for this beat up old man) , it has a fixed skeet chocked barrel.

 

[TSchwab25]

Ive always just sprayed a generous amount of remoil on the choke tube threads and screw it in tight

 

[Omaha-BeenGlockin]

Outer's(? thats a brand name, right) choke tube lube, picked up at Walmart---Tetra before that

I tend to go for the grease rather than a thin oil.

 

[Slamfire]

I have been using anti seize for decades on Garand and M1a gas cylinder lock plugs. And of course on automotive bolts. I recently did some suspension work on my vintage vehicle, and broke loose some suspension bolts that I had coated with anti seize, possibly 20 years ago. While the shaft threads were rusted outside the nut, the threads inside were still coated in anti seize. That is pretty good for something exposed to the environment under a vehicle. I was able to break the nut loose easily, turning off the rusted part of the bolt shaft was a little harder.

Anti seize has worked extremely well on header bolts, and that is a very hot environment. Much worse than anything I do to my firearms.

For my Garands/M1a's, I wipe off the excess with paper towels. Sure, some may come off on my hands, not a problem. I seldom clean firearms without wearing nitrile gloves.

 

[Kingcreek]

Been using the same tube of gunslick since they started putting choke tubes in barrels.

 

[George P]

Been using the same tube of gunslick since they started putting choke tubes in barrels.

make sure you have enough as IIRC, that has been discontinued

 

[Lo-Profile]

I don't change choke tubes very often. Mine usually just has the standard full left in.
I just use the same grease that I use for my breach plug in my muzzleloader.
Somebody tell me if this is a bad idea. I figured it was close to the same stuff and saw no need to have 2 different types.

That's just another "brand" of anti-seize ... Your fine.

I use the Briley lube in my Sporting Clays gun since I change them more often.
I use anti-seize on my Skeet gun, only clean it every couple months. Or if my mind tells me it's the chokes fault I miss and I change them. Iol

 

[Boattale]

Teflon thread paste. The plumbing stuff. I've taken apart threaded couplings that had that put on them 20+ years earlier with no problems.

 

[Boomholzer]

Sta Lube moly graphite engine assembly lube. You can finger it on, has anti seize properties, and isn't horrible to get off your hands or end up on everything. There is a slight odor but some high sulfur light "gun" oils are worse. I use the same stuff for can threads, muzzle brakes, some internal lockwork, even on autoloader bolts/slides that get worked hard.
Maybe not the best choice, but it's worked for me across decades.

 

[.45Coltguy]

Like a couple of posters mentioned, Synthetic motor oil. Seems to work just fine.

 

[9x56MS]

Gorilla Grease. Same as I use for breech plugs and Nipples om my muzzle loaders.

I use this also on my choke tubes. Never had any issues with it.