What is this H&A topbreak?

[bogususer]

In 2012, Evan Price posted with questions trying to identify his H&A topbreak. He submitted a link to pictures of his revolver. I have copied his link to the picture (see below) since I have the exact same revolver in identical condition. If Evan is still out there on this forum, I would ask what you have learned about your H&A since then - what can you safely shoot, etc. Good, reliable information on this has been difficult to come by. First hand from fellow owner would be great.


Anyone else with info please feel free to chime in. All help cheerfully accepted.


http://s200.photobucket.com/user/ragabash01/media/gunpix/IMG_20121203_090152.jpg.html

 

[Reloadron]

Do you mean H&R as in Harrington & Richardson Inc. ? Guns like their Model 4 and Model 5?

Ron

 

[bannockburn]

bogususer

It could be a Hopkins and Allen top-break, built around the the late 1880s to early 1900s. These were relatively inexpensive double action revolvers in .22, .32, and .38 calibers. Many of the top-break guns were referred to being the Safety Police models. Some were advertised as having a Triple Action Safety while others were called Automatic Revolvers, which could be because they had a double action trigger and/or because they automatically ejected the empty cases when the gun was opened.

 

[heyjoe]

im not an expert but that doesnt look like any H&R grip that i have seen.

 

[bogususer]

The below is from Evan Price's 2012 post. All applies to my Hopkins & Allen as well. Everything he posted is identical to my revolver.

In a subsequent post he added:

thought all the large frame break-tops were chambered for 38 S&W?

The patent date from 1898 is not addressed at the Firearms Forum posting, which I had seen. I thought perhaps with the 1898 patent this might have been a model they started producing before the factory fire in 1901.

Would be interested in knowing more about it including date of manufacture, the serial number is the letter "I" followed by four digits. Since it is rollmarked Hopkins & Allen Arms it must be a post-1899.

It 'looks' to me like a Forehand, which had 6-shot 32 S&W Long, however, the top latch is retained on mine by a screw, and the Forehands I've seen use a pin instead. Also they say "Forehand" on the roll mark on the barrel, and the serial number is on the front of the grip under the trigger guard, whereas mine is on the bottom of the butt.

In this thread is a nice Forehand top break-

http://www.thefirearmsforum.com/showthread.php?t=47307

However you will also note that mine has, at the front of the cylinder just under the center rod, a pin-retained tiny black push-button which, when pushed, allows the cylinder to be removed from the center rod.

Forehands don't have that.

And my hammer and trigger are different, mine are case colored and appear more detailed than the Forehand items

It's 32 S&W Long, 6-shot cylinder, auto ejector. Barrel is 3.25" long. Tight mechanically, timing is on, clean & shiny barrel lands & grooves, nice finish, grips are good.

It's not a Forehand or Model of 1901 because it doesn't say so on the topstrap. It's not a Safety Police because it doesn't say so on the topstrap, and it does not have the Safety Police top latch. It's not a Double Action XL because it's top break. It's not a small frame auto eject because the cylinder is not 5 shot.

All it says on the topstrap is Hopkins & Allen Arms Norwich CT USA and the patent date of Dec 6 98. The grips have the H&A logo. There are three screw heads on the left side- hammer screw, hinge screw and top latch screw.

 

[bogususer]

Also, the revolver is not stamped for caliber but a .32 S&W Long fits. I hunted down an old, still sealed box of .32 short black powder so I know I can fire those. Mostly curious if any one else has experience with this model. In Evan Price's 2012 post he stated his was a serial number that started with "I" and had four numbers. Mine is "G" with four numbers.

 

[evan price]

Howdy Boguser.

I wasn't able to find any info on my H&A.
I load a Lee 98-gr lead round nose cast from 10 bhn range scrap, water quenched, tumble lubed in Xlox and loaded in range brass, Wolf sp primer and 2.5 gr of Red Dot powder. I don't shoot it much so as to preserve it.
Good luck with yours! Anything you find out will be welcome.

 

[bogususer]

To Evan Price,

I have some S&W short black powder I plan to try, but I probably won't shoot much either, same reason. Are your hand loads .32 S&W short or long? Don't hand load myself (maybe when I retire), so some of the jargon is over my head.

 

[FROGO207]

Welcome to the forum as well.
Those pre 1904 top break revolvers were all made for 32 S&W short BP ammo. 32 Long will fit and some have fired longs in them but you risk damage if you do this as they were not designed for that much pressure. When you shoot those black powder loads be sure to clean the revolver really well with Windex then hot water to remove corrosive elements, then dry and re-oil it well to preserve it and prevent rust. I have a couple H&A 32's (not like yours though), 5 functioning H&R 32 top breaks and several parts revolvers. I use Trail Boss and 100 grain round nose lead bullets in mine with OK results but keep in mind that they were never made to be target guns. If you want to shoot it any large amount you should take up reloading as the reloads made now with smokeless will be less problematic to use with less cleaning required. FYI 32 CAL round nose and SWC 100 grain lead bullets from Hunters supply were available from Hunningtons as recently as 2 years ago when I purchased some to reload. They are neat little revolvers and fun to shoot as well.