What kinds of Taps are best?

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A lot depends on how much you plan to use them and the types of steel you'll be tapping. You will seldom go wrong buying the best quality tool available for the purpose.
 
Just try tapping a old Bruno rifle with cheap taps and wonder why you never bought to good ones. Most of the time you get what you pay for.
 
I buy taps and tools from MSC or JL Industrial. Buy coated tools, and buy American.

+1

MSC is going to be a better price than Brownells, plus a larger selection. You need bottom and taper in the sizes you use often. You can make old tapers into bottom taps to save a few bucks. Don't get them hot when you grind them down.

You may find that some guns use a specialized thread size that may only be available at Brownells or Midway.
 
Taps

As a machinist I can agree with buying the best taps and do buy American if you can. Also do yourself a favor and get or make some type of support or guiding device to support the tap and keep it square to the hole. The last thing you want to hear is that snap of the tap, it will ruin your day and removing a broken tap can be a nightmare.
 
TiNi coated seem to cut smoother. 3 flute are usually stronger than either 2 flute or 4 flute and seem to be easier to start when hand tapping.
don't forget a quality tapping fluid and compressed air to blow out chip build-up.
 
As a full time gunmaker and full time machinist I can tell you that it is never worth skimping on tooling, especially with taps. Unless you want to get good at machining them out of receivers, barrels, pistol frames, etc.

I use industrial tooling supply companies like MSC. They have most thread pitches typically used for firearms.

good luck.

Chad
LongRifles, Inc
www.longriflesinc.com
 
jim m. +1 A good tap wrench, lube and a steady hand will work, but holding it at 90 degs can be critical.

I've used a drill press turned with a wrench on critical threads. I know, I know misuse etc.
 
Agreed, I don't have a high enough opinion of my metalworking skills to try and tap a rifle by hand. For now, I have access to a mill for lining up the holes, a little overkill but nothing wrong with that :D .

Assuming average rifle steel, how many times would you recommend using a tap before replacing it?
 
Again, it depends on the quality of the tap.

while as the production manager at Nesika Bay Precision we got very good life out of our taps, but they were close to $40 bucks a piece and used pressurized through tooling coolant.

Spiral taps are best for blind holes as they evacuate the chip out of the bore rather than push it ahead of the tool. They will also form a full thread almost to the bottom of the hole.

Receiver steels typically run in the low 40's on the Rockwell C scale. Chromoly actions are hard, where's stainless is kinda gummy.

Castrol Moly D tapping fluid is one of the best that I've ever used. Hangster Furrs in NJ makes a very high shear load lubricant used by a few barrel makers when drawing a button through a bore to put the "wrinkles" in it. Great stuff but its very expensive.

Always use the best tooling you can afford and if it starts to dull, chuck it and get another one. Unless you just don't care about what your working on. (which in that case, why mess with to start with.)

Good luck.
 
Assuming average rifle steel, how many times would you recommend using a tap before replacing it?

I dont know what average is, but in tough steel like 4130, 440A etc. I will retire a tap after as few as 2-4 holes.

The it gets used for thru holes in thin, or easy to cut materials like 1020, 1095, etc.
 
Spiral taps are best for blind holes as they evacuate the chip out of the bore rather than push it ahead of the tool. They will also form a full thread almost to the bottom of the hole.

Be sure to get spiral flute (usually called helical flute to avoid confusion) and not spiral point taps. Spiral point taps have a straight flute with angular point geometry which causes the chips to move ahead of the tap. Spiral points are also sometimes called gun taps, I cannot tell you the number of times some one has brought a receiver to me with a snapped off spiral point tap in a blind hole saying 'but the parts store guy said it was as gun tap and I figured it should work on guns?'
 
If using a good cutting fluid and a quality tap there's no reason to toss a tap after two/three holes.

I've worked with some of the nastiest stuff out there (inconell, 6AL 4V titanium, 17-4 SS, copper tungsten, Invar, etc) and we didn't pitch taps then after two/three holes.
 
I sure dont pitch them! I just dont use them in items I dont want to break a tap in.

My comments were also specific to small taps, like 4-40, 6-32, etc.

My experiences or procedures are in no way intended as instruction for others.

YMMV.
 
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