What knife?

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g5reality

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What knife or knifes would you recommend when hunting. One for general purpose and one for dressing? Also do you use different knifes for different animals, Deer, pig? or is one good dressing knife ok?
 
I've gutted many a deer with just a 3-1/2" folding Solingen pocket knife. Skinned them out, as well. And, did a lot of the butchering with it. For working around the hams and suchlike, a 4" or 5" hunting knife is better.

Pig hide is tougher than deer. Planning ahead, I'd figure on a second knife by the time the hide's off. Or stop and touch up what I'm using.

Size isn't nearly as important as sharp. :)

Art
 
Art is right, keep it sharp, but get a quality knife. I've only dressed deer, but I like the Case ex-chnger knife, 2 blades a gut hook and saw. Browning makes a 2 and 3 blade folder, I got the 2 blade model for my son and myself and dressed both our deer this year, has a blade and gut hook. (Cabela's)

Bought a exchanger knife from the Savage Arms web site and it looks like a pretty good set for $60.

Case, Buck, Gerber... something with a 3" - 3 1/2" blade is fine, a gut hook is handy but not really needed and a saw to zip through the ribs and pelvic bone keeps your blade from getting dulled quicker.
Gerber makes a great 2 blade saw.

This is a pic of the Browning 2 blade folder, its light and holds a good edge, it was about 40 bucks.

Mike
 

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Knife?

I like the CRKT (Columbia River Knife and Tool) knives they are good quality and very reliable. I have Carried the Kilbuck Signature Hunter 2810 for the past two years, also I use the accusharp brand knife sharpeners.

http://www.crkt.com/prohuntr.html
 
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I've owned several Buck 110s, not that impressed. I have a dull and won't sharpen Shrade Uncle Henry, too. This are old style folders. I bought a Gerber Gator Serrator about 15 years ago and it's the best folding hunter I've ever owned. It's very light, very well built and strong, keeps an edge well, sharpens to shaving the arm sharp even after 15 years of use. When doing a deer, I normally have to stop and sharpen it a few times before the butchering is totally done, but I can skin and quarter without problem non-stop, fillet backstraps/tender loins. It fits the hand rather well, is comfy, and the grip material is a tacky rubber that doesn't slip even when bloody. I've not worried about getting another belt carried hunting knife for a long time.

When I was a kid, I had a nice fixed blade Schrade that really kept a sharp edge. I lost that thing, dangit. I also had a cheap Fiskars hunting knife (looked a little like their fillet knives, that was amazingly decent and sharp that got stolen out of my truck. It was light to tote, too. It was after that Fiskars got ripped off that I got the Gerber. You don't have to spend a hundred bucks or more on a knife to get a good blade, much as some folks love their custom blades. I'm a utility guy. I don't really get into the hand crafted stuff.

My ol' man gave me a Case Kodiak Hunter in the 70s for a Christmas present. I rarely break that thing out, BIG knife. But, boy does it hold an edge! It ain't of the tough utility variety and it's very big and heavy, but it's a nice knife to show off, has a Kodiak bear acid etched on the blade made of shiny stainless with a stag handle and brass furniture. That's the one I break out when guys in camp are braggin' on their fancy knives, but I carry the Gerber. Last time I priced that Kodiak in a knife shop at the mall 20 years ago, it was about $140. :what: The Case is on this page. Apparently they still make it, now with a buffalo horn handle. I prefer my stag, matches the stag grips on my engraved 4 5/8" stainless Blackhawk in .45 Colt, too. If the hunting camp is full of knife/gun snobs, I'll strap that rig on. :D

http://www.jaysknives.com/case_5.htm

casekodiak.jpg

Edit to include Gerber pix and write up.

http://www.epinions.com/content_115174968964#

Gerber_Gator_Serrater_Knife_06079_Shop_Tools-resized200.jpg
 
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I prefer a good drop-point fixed blade, sheath knife but a decent folder will do anything you need. I would rather have a 3-3.5" blade than the longer, heavier hunters.
My hunting pack always has a swedish Erikkson Mora- lightwt,excellent carbon steel and ergonomics, and under $10. It usually backs up a folder in my pocket (often a Dozier medium hunter).
I have some custom knives that I really like and some see regular use, but there are alot of good blades available without spending the gas money.
 
Old Hickory Knives

An Old Hickory butcher knife is the king of our meat cutting. We also use a Cold Steel Hudson Bay knife that is almost the same as the Old Hickory. I have never liked using a folding knife for anything besides field dressing. I have also had no use for Buck knives in general. I am sure that some will disagree but that is my experience with them
 
Art - I agree with being Sharp.

I'll add the knife needs to fit the users hand and be "manageable" .

I grew up with Case knives with Chrome Vanadium Blades and Old Hickory 1095 carbon steel kitchen knives.

I EDC this knife and have used it probably the most -
http://www.vintageknives.com/tek9.asp?pg=products&specific=jmqrgmorq
If not a Case, Then a Boker or Hen & Rooster with carbon steel "Soligen" blades, just like it.
Soligen meaning a region, not the steel itself. I do not do Stainless Steel knives, I prefer carbon steel or CV for edge retention and ease of touch up.

My others include : Trapper, Mini Trapper , Sodbuster Jr. Sodbuster is just a workhorse - period. Junior fits my hands better and the blade is easy for me to use and all.


Oh yeah, Old Hickory gets used, 3 1/4" Paring knife my favorite for most chores and using others bigger if need.

Never done a hog myself, others I know use the OH for this chore...no big deal and not expensive to have more than one handy if need.

Barehead, Slimline Trapper is my first choice, and has been since I was a wee pup.
 
I've got a couple of Bark River knives. I picked up mine before the company started making a name for itself. They cost a bit more now. They usually use A2 steel which produces a very good edge.

I picked mine up through A G Russell.
 
I really like SOG's Hunter Revolver, personally. It's not too expensive, holds a good edge, has a gut hook, is about the length I prefer for a hunting knife, and has an excellent bone saw when you spin the blade around. It eliminates the need to carry two separate tools by combining them into one durable, effective package - and that's a cool thing, because the older I get, the more important weight reduction becomes for me.
 
I really love the Puukkos. The heavy, razor sharp blades work better than the Bowie style knives (which are actually fighting knives) or the small folders.

http://www.ragweedforge.com/RoselliCatalog.html

I got the UHC Hunter a while back and I've been very happy with it. It holds a fantastic edge and is easy to manipulate even with gloves on. The design isn't well known stateside, but everyone I know who's bought one loves it.

r200.jpg
 
Thank you all

Thanks to everyone who have responded. I am still looking for the knife for me but you all gave good examples and reasons to look at different knoves.

I have a Buck 110. I was considering a Buck 119 BR, (Special). and a Buck 191 BR, (Buck Zipper).

Now my choices have expanded.

MCgunner, Nice Case Kodiak Hunter and thanks for the advice. Sorry for the criticism on the J frame thread.:)
 
My general purpose carry is a Buck Tarani with G10 scales. I'm not sure how great it would be as a skinner, but it's a tough as nails rough duty knife, and it holds an edge very well. Only drawback is that it is a substantial knife... not light.
 
I carry several knives when hunting. I depend mainly on a 4 inch blade Randall #11, but I also have a Case folder (the sheath contains 3 other blades) and one or two other knives in the fanny pack. I often take this little Brusletto from Norway. It is a great skinning knife.

randallandbrusletto.jpg
 
I bought an Outdoor Edge "kodi-pack" years ago and never looked back. Add a couple cheap paring knives to cape with and you are set.

But then again, this thread showed me some real nice knives.
 
Have used a 3 1/2" drop-point folding Kershaw for years. Also have a custom Damascus steel sheath knife in the same blade configuration (only considerably more attractive). I've observed with longer blades that: a) there is more blade you really don't need on which to cut yourself & b) more blade to hone.
 
I collect knives so have a few favorites to include a couple of 110's that stay sharp. I like my Randall's, Blackjack Trail Guide, and, as was metioned before, Bark River. The Bark River Gameskeeper, for the money, is the best deal going.
 
I bought a Gerber Gator, drop point blade, half serrated, 3.5in, 154cm steel.
Drop point blades work very well for skinning/general work; I use the small blade of my leather man for more delicate tasks.

Having a sharp blade is more important than anything else. Know how to put a good edge on your knife and take a stone with you into the field.

The older Gators were made with good steel, 154cm or ATS-34. I was horrified when I saw the new Gator 2's were made with 420HC. I think Gerber’s riding on their reputation now and moving to cheaper meterials.:fire:

I break down butchering needs as follows-

-Skinning knife- drop point or ulu design

capeing- small clip point knife

Boning or fillet knife

Bone saw or hatchet

I can wholeheartedly recommend a book called "The complete Guide to Hunting Knives," it covers every aspect- shape, steel, grind, in great detail
 
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