What to do to the Stock on my new Ruger m77 hawkeye?

Status
Not open for further replies.

longdayjake

Member
Joined
Apr 10, 2008
Messages
2,930
Location
Genesee, ID
OKAY, I just barely bought a new .223 ruger m77 hawkeye. It looks as though the barrel is tightly tucked into the synthetic stock. I can't tell if its bedded or if it is just formed for the barrel. I am betting its not bedded, but in case it is I don't want to take it out of the stock just to check. So, could someone let me know if its bedded, and if it isn't should I take my dremel and free float the barrel? What kind of accuracy are you guys getting from yours? I hate synthetic stocks and I am thinking about just buying a wooden stock for it, but thats a way off but if you guys know of any good ones let me know.
 
The Ruger stocks fit close. Some like to free float barrels but I have never had a problem with a Ruger synthetic stock. It is not glass bedded from the factory if that is what you are asking. Won't hurt a thing to take the stock off to clean the rifle or just to look. Shoot the thing before you start thinking about changing things. It will most likely shoot just fine.
 
It is not bedded, in the same sense as you would think of something like a custom AcraGlas job from a gunsmith. I can think of virtually no production rifle that is. The best you could expect is that the manufacturer uses a metal bed or pillars in the stock against which the action is affixed. The Ruger does not use a metal bed or pillers.

Having said that, my three late-model Ruger 77MkIIs all shoot quite acceptably for hunting use - MOAish with most loads. Shoot it first and see how you like it.
 
no, you should not take a dremel to free float your barrel. you might as well shoot the thing and see if it needs floating. before you do, however, loosen up the action screws, then re-torque them. tighten the front screw to tight, middle screw to barely hanging on, and rear screw to snug... you should be in good shape from there. sometimes the ruger gorillas get a little carried away and put entirely too much pressure on the middle and rear screws...

once you determine you need to float your barrel, do not use a dremel. use a deep well socket and 40 grit sandpaper. take a $20 bill (everybody else uses a $1 bill, but why be like everybody else?) and fold it in half, and then in half again. when you can slide that from the tip of the barrel to the action, you are floated.

the link will take you to one of my ruger projects (how-to: floating, bedding, pillars): http://www.baitshopboyz.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=18014&PN=1

good luck!
 
Well, I took it as is to the range and I could not get any better than 4" groups. I am suspecting that it is a scope issue, but I am not really sure. I think I should free float the barrel anyway as I can see several spots where the stock touches the barrel and several where it doesn't. 4" groups aren't even good for an AR. I'm kinda frustrated.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top