What Will I Need To Start Reloading .308/7.62x51 Ammo

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You did well, it is rigid and does a great job trimming cases with very little variance. I have that and an old RCBS trimmer. The RCBS flexes if you put too much pressure on the handle as you trim, varying the length of the cases. With care, it does great, but has more flex than the Forster, so you have to be more careful.
 
I've read this thread and it's full of good information so I'd just like to add my 2cents. .308 is a lot of fun to load. The components are usually easily obtainable and it's a fun cartridge to load. With good dies and a good press, you should have a lot of fun because it's an easy round to reload.

I enjoy reloading .308 as much as I enjoy 30-30. They're big enough to be docile in the press. I prefer IMR-4064 in my .308 recipe. Since it's a bigger round, it doesn't get "finicky." I never thought reloading a particular cartridge could get that way, but I pull my hair out trying to load 5.56mm for my AR. When I get too frustrated, I'll load up some .308 and end on a good note.

My only suggestion would be to start with some new brass. Even 100 cases would do in the beginning to get you used to reloading .308. Then save some money and buy once fired or range brass if they permit you to pick it up off the ground. Used cases can sometimes be difficult for various reasons that are not readily apparent.

Good luck.
 
Okay Guys,

After all of your help and input, I have made some choices and have all of the following on the way. Comments are appreciated, even if you do not agree with one of my choices. If you do not, please advise what you feel would have been better, as a beginning choice.

I went with the 147gn fmj w/c bullets, as they are close to the standard 150gn and they were on sale.

Lyman Reloading 308 Win Case Length/Headspace Gauge

RCBS Comp .308 Win F L Die Set – Full Length die set - Competition Dies - Reloading Dies - Sizer die & Seater die

Lee Precision Rifle Powder Charging Die

Hornady Chamfer and Deburring Tool 17 to 45 Caliber

Forster Original Case Trimmer Kit CTK100

Lee Auto Prime Hand Priming Tool Shell Holder #2

8lb IMR4895 Powder from Powder Valley

4000 WINWLR Primers from Powder Valley

500 – New .308 Win Brass Cases from Starline

500 – General Dynamics .308 Diameter Bullets - 147 Grain FMJ – WC

I have some lubrication on the way, as well, but forgot which one.
 
I've been using the Frankford Arsenal spray lube. Pretty good stuff.
I place about 30-40 cases in a baggie, spray or two in the bag and roll the caes around the bag and against each other for a minute or two, resize and wipe them off.
I found a bad case as I was resizing a bag a week or so ago and I tossed it and grabbed another case to keep the batch number even, forgot to lube the new case and got it half way up the die before it dawned on me what I was doing.
DONT run 308 cases in your resizing die without lube.
 
"500 – New .308 Win Brass Cases from Starline"


Skip the premium brass and get some LC brass. Your resizing and trimming anyway right? Its stronger and you get reduced powder capacity= less cost per round for powder. Plus once fired gets you 62% cost savings compared to a new 500 rounds.
 
"500 – New .308 Win Brass Cases from Starline"


Skip the premium brass and get some LC brass. Your resizing and trimming anyway right? Its stronger and you get reduced powder capacity= less cost per round for powder. Plus once fired gets you 62% cost savings compared to a new 500 rounds.


Starline says the same thing about their .308 Brass. It's thicker than standard and allows for reduced powder capacity. I gave buying once fired brass a lot of thought, but then I figured it will be easier to learn on new brass. It's already ordered anyway. I have no regrets.

I may pick up some LC Brass as well, a few hundred cases, just to practice working with fired brass.
 
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Starline says the same thing about their .308 Brass. It's thicker than standard and allows for reduced powder capacity. I gave buying once fired brass a lot of thought, but then I figured it will be easier to learn on new brass. It's already ordered anyway. I have no regrets.

I always start out a new rifle with its own new brass. I'd prefer to start with fresh components if I'm working up loads, and in the end brass isn't that expensive.
 
The Starline is likely going to be excellent new brass and averages about 39.8 cents per round. I have been buying from Brass Bombers the once fired Lake City brass all cleaned and swaged at about 25 cents a round delivered. While you will never go wrong with Starline Brass in the future you may want to give Brass Bombers a shot.

Ron
 
The Starline is likely going to be excellent new brass and averages about 39.8 cents per round. I have been buying from Brass Bombers the once fired Lake City brass all cleaned and swaged at about 25 cents a round delivered. While you will never go wrong with Starline Brass in the future you may want to give Brass Bombers a shot.

Ron


Thanks for the heads-up on Brass Bombers. I'd like to pick up some once fired brass, to practice with, learning to size & trim properly.
 
If you pick up some LC brass for precision work, look for some LC "LR" brass. It is more uniform and will have been shot in bolt guns.

Plain old LC brass may or may not have been shot in full auto, which is tough on brass.

Even some of the LR I got was tough to size vs most of it. Out of the 250 I bought I kept a batch of 200, scrapped about 25ish, and used the others for load work up. The ones I scrapped would size down, but I had to adjust the sizer way down to get them sized. The 200 segregated all sized down easily like new soft brass. A few more than 200 also sized easily, but I like round numbers, so I kept a batch of 200 for my intended purpose.

If you get real serious, buy new Lapua. No need to do so to start though. I imagine the Starline is good stuff which will serve you very well as you get into reloading .308.
 
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