What is the least amount of things i need for reloading .308

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dbrown

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I want to know what is the least amount of things i need for reloading .308.

I know the lee classic loader kit is cheaper than a regular single stage press but i rather have the single stage press.
 
Here you go, the real easy shopping list you can get at any bass pro shops.

Go with RCBS.

Single stage press, either the partner or the Rock Chucker.

Full length sizing die, and bullet seating die.

You'll need the case holder thing (Forget the technical name) that holds the base of the case when in the press

Get some never fired brass, it will be easy to learn on..

Whatever bullets you want, I reccommend a boat tail becasue they're easier to seat when you're learning.

You'll need a digital scale, calipers, I like tweezers to pour the powder from my larger dish into the dish that sits on the scale which I pour the powder into.

Case lube.

Case trimmer, but usually you can use once fired brass without trimming.

I like the blue shop towels to wipe down my brass.

A chamfering tool.

A powder funnel

Some dippers may be useful

You will want to have a good powder, Varget is very good for .308

I reccomend Sierra Matchking bullets for target shooting, but they're not reccomended for hunting, the Sierra Gameking is.

If you want to use only one bullet for target shooting and hunting, the Hornady AMAX is pretty good.

Hope this helps, you'll also need to build a good bench.
 
While you can reload with a Lee Classic "whack-a-mole" kit, you will only be neck sizing the brass and the whole process gets old and noisy after a while.

I am assuming you are shooting with a bolt action rifle.

While I prefer to neck size most of the time with my .308, there are times (especially with brass I buy from other shooters) where full length sizing is an absolute must. You must also occasionally do a "partial full length size" to bump the shoulder back after a few neck sized shots.

A bench mounted single stage press is a huge step above a hand press or using a hammer to reload. I would recommend a Lee Breechlock Challenger kit or the Anniversary kit. I prefer the Breechlock Challenger kit because I like to batch process my .308 brass and prime off the press and can do it much quicker with the hand primer.

You must also buy dies. I would recommend the Lee Deluxe rifle die set which allows you to choose between full length resize and neck sizing only. Full lenght resize the brass the first time you use it, then neck size the rest of the time. Check the case fit in your rifle and full length resize only when you encounter resistance in closing the bolt. You can do more advanced things such as marking your dies to bump the shoulder back only the minimum amount, but that's for other discussions.

The powder measure and scale included in the kit works fine so long as you read and follow the directions. If you are "all thumbs" or are terribly far sighted, the scale is difficult to use and read. If you are OK with reading a vernier scale and know how to use the lock button on the scale, it works great and is very accurate. Lube in included and works so long as you spread an even thin layer all along the case body (not the neck or shoulder area).

You should also buy a set of calipers. Harbor Freight has cheap imported digital calipers for $10 when they go on sale. Not great, but will fulfill the "minimum" requirement. You will also want the .308 case length gauge to use with the included case trimmer and de-burring tool.

If you don't have a table to C-clamp the press, get a Black and Decker Workmate portable bench. It is sturdy and can be folded and put away between sessions.
 
I don't reload yet and can't believe I'm the first to say this: FIRST you need a good reloading manual like the "ABC's of Reloading". I got it from the library but will probably buy one for future ref. I plan to get the lee turret as I will be reloading for .308 to start but will be moving on to .32 S&W Long, 9mm, and probably 7.62X54r when I get a Mosin.

Good luck, and be safe!!!
 
This is one of my pet peeves. It should be the "least number of things". IF they are countable, they come in numbers. Amounts refer to measures such as cups or pints. You don't have two waters, but you have two tools.
The least number of things?
Lee Classic Loader 308 Winchester
Product #: 735723
$26.49
Beyond that you would need:
A press (the inexpensive Lee Reloading Press works for me for .30-06 and costs about $35.
Dies--see Lee. You want a full length sizing die and a bullet seating die. If using a bolt action rifle only, you can also get a neck-only sizing die. If using a semi-auto, you may want the Lee FCD.
A way to measure/weigh your powder. You can get a powder-through die so you can simply pour the charge through the die into the case on the press. For decades, inexpensive dippers have been used (you can get a low charge weight, but you can't get an over weight charge), but most people would not consider anything less than weighing the charge weight.
After a couple of firings, the case with grow and will need to be trimmed. You can get the inexpensive Lee case trimmer.
Most people like the little hand lathes since you can trim cases and inside neck-ream cases and outside neck turn cases for even case thickness.
Beyond that, you get into gimmicks.
Unless you are shooting large quantities of rounds at one time, I prefer to buy 100 virgin cases and shoot those until I need to buy another 100 virgin cases (generally 5-20 loadings, depending on rifle chamber, quality of cases, pressure of loads, and ability to anneal case necks).
The first thing you need would be a couple of loading manuals and the time to carefully read them, over and over.
 
RCBS has a very good selection of quality single stage presses to choose from. Additional items needed are s follows.
1. Case trimmer-Lee has a very expensive and decent option
2. RCBS FL die set
3. RCBS priming die
4. Baslance beam scale
5. Lee powder dipper kit - You'll need them for scooping powder into the scale pan. Don't rely on a dipper as your only means of powder measurement, you must check dippers against a scale, no option with that aspect of measuring powders.
5. Ream and Chamfer tool. Go with RCBS as the Lee will scrape some shoulders, at least the older one I have does.
6. Shell holder
7. Dial calpier-Harbor F has one for $10
8. Loading tray
9. Case lube
10. Buy a good instructional reloading book, ABS's of reloadng and Speer are good instructional books. And the "One Cartridge, One Book" That book has recipes from most all the major powder and bullet manufactures and is only about $8.
An inexpensive chronograph can be very handy for helping you to know how hot your loads are running, about $120.
For a new reloader, I would recomend starting out with slower burning powders as they are far more forgiving with regard to small powder charge variations than the faster burning powders are. However, they do limit how light the loads can be minipulated, as most slow burners are picky at the lower end of the charge range.

GS
 
What #3 & #7 say, but I like the RCBS better. I DON'T like Lee rifle set!! I use the Franklin Arsenel digital scale, it works fine. I have loading trays but don't use them anymore. I have a trimmer but don't use it. HF caliper works fine. Lyman chamfer tool, it's got a long taper. Lemishine to clean cases. hand primer is the only way to go, mine is Hornady. RCBS or Imperial case lube - NO one-shot! Else you need to get a stuck case extracter. Hornady lock rings for the die. Learn the mechanics of what and why of case prep, sizing and loading. Most questions here are because the OP doesn't understand why they are doing what they do. Actual loading data is at Hodgdon and others sites. Buy components in bulk on the net. So far taxes are pretty much equal to shipping costs. Oh, forgot safety glasses. If you get into reloading you will buy more but make your initial purchase good, needed stuff.
 
I don't understand why you want the fewest number of items to do the job? If you can't buy the correct ones then hold off or buy them little by little. You should not take shortcuts when it comes to reloading.

Technically speaking you only need a Lee Loader and a rubber mallet. But you will soon find that you will want more tools to create better ammo. You will need a press, dies and tools to prep the case. It's just up to you as to how far you want to take it.


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You can cry once and buy quality products that your grandkids will be passing down, or you can go uber-cheap and be replacing things as they break or do not hold up.

As for digital scales, a simple balance beam scale will get you more value for the same money
A good press will last a long time
Good dies will turn out top quality ammo for a long time

You get what you pay for - a long time ago, I was told that the most expensive tool in the tool box was the cheapest one I bought - YMMV
 
There are different ways to go as you see by now. Forget the one that uses a hammer. :eek:

Basically you will need:
Reloading Book, first item
Single stage press.
shell holder for the 308
A two die set of 308 rifle dies
If the press has a priming arm you are good, if not you will need a Hand Priming Tool.
a balance beam scale
Powder funnel
Case Lube, I have used grease from my grease gun, but you do need some lube.
de-burring tool recommended, but you may get by without it.
A table or bench
a rag, to wipe brass with

That is a bare minimum in my book, and I will second what others have said: Buy good tools.

Yes, there are other tools you will want if you get into it, but you asked for a minimum list.

OK, you can keep a once fired brass for a case length comparison, and keep an unfired brass for a seating depth gauge. Now you see you can get by without a caliper.

You can trim with a file if you need to trim the brass after a few loadings.

You can grab a spoon from the kitchen to dip powder into the pan on the scale and dribble in with fingers. Slow but do-able.

Its pretty hard to put powder into a casing without a funnel, so I put a funnel on the list.

To clean brass, just wipe them off with a rag. There is seldom anything more than a little soot on them anyway. They will darken, but that doesn't bother anything but the operator who likes shiny.

A loading board is nice but not a necessity. You can charge one seat one.

Perhaps a Kit with most of these items in it would be good for you?
 
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