What would be the best survival knife?

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Interesting thread. I can not imagine anyone putting themself in a position where a knife fight might occur and not have a pistol. That aside, you really have to define what your expectations are for the knife; is it to be a general utility knife? If so, how long a blade do you want/need? Nothing the matter with a K-Bar, the Cold Steel SRK or the Becker BK7. I hike/camp and I quickly found that one knife is not enough. I wanted a chopper/digger/prybar/hammer and settled on the Becker Campanion which has a 5 1/4 inch blade and resembles a prybar with an edge. It does everything, has an incredibly strong point that will pierce ammo cans all day long with no damage. Its a lot stronger than my K-Bar. Its a good all around compromise but a fine cutter it ain't. For finer chores I have another thinner blade knife. There are so many excellent knifes out there all you have to do is make out a spec sheet and then try to execise some self control.
 
OK, I' can see that the Buck 110 isn't the first choice for survival work, but nobody has mentioned the Buck 119 or 120 fixed blade knives. Not my most advanced or sexiest knives, but solid and reliable.
 
As a couple of folks have pointed out, it is all relative to your neeeds, wants and pocketbook. For knife tasks, NOT cutting cinder blocks, any of the knives mentioned can do something. Yes, the K-Bar can break, but usually only when used as a prybar. If you need a prybar, get a prybar.
Newer knives are a lot better because of metallurgy and design and some can actually be used as a prybar of sorts.
 
When you include tasks like opening crates, the Quartermaster by Ontario comes to mind. Thick, wide 6" blade suitable for numerous tasks and fighting.
The black epoxy coatings do a reasonably good job of protecting the blade from corrosion. I recommend a thin film of Crisco on carbon steel knives that may be used to cut up food.
As others have said, its hard to get one knife that is suitable for everything. That said, some type of Bowie knife is usually well-suited for a multitude of tasks. The K-bar would be a good choice.
 
Thanks for the reply Brownie!

Ed,

I agree that if one wants a prybar, get a prybar. But sometimes when you only have a few tools on hand, you have to make due.
 
Daniel Flory

I understand completely. BTDT. You really can't blame the knife.
I am seriously considering something like the Swamp Rat, which I just discovered (Thank you Dr), or the CS Recon Scout.
Years ago in another life I swapped a poncho liner for an AF Survival Knife (Camillus, I believe). I did everything with it. I opened cans and boxes, cut meat and wood. I even used it with a hammer to cut sheet metal. I gave it to my son about 25 years ago and he still uses it. Not a REAL survival knife, but it surely served me well.:)
 
brownie:

Thank you for your service Sir, and I apologise if I offended you.

I hope I didn't come across as bashing K-bars, as that was never my intention.

As you have shown, (and I of course agree) they are a fine knife and have served many people, including our troops, very well indeed.

Are there better blades out there? Of course.

My point, and my personal philosophy is that I want the best, Period.

If I can get a knife that will hack through concrete and beg for more, sign me up!

As has been said above, the best knife is the one you have with you, which IMO, reinforces my philosophy about choosing only the best.

IMO, if the SHTF and I'm stuck with "only" my Strider Tactical GB (IF they EVER arrive!!! :fire: ) I'll be OK with that, and I'm sure it will do everything that I could possibly need it to.

Or if the SHTF when I'm out camping with "only" my Strider BT, I'll be fine, as Striders are as close to indestructible as you can get.

Above someone said something about "having to make do when your options are limited" and I agree, and again, I think that reinforces my point about buying the best.

Its likely that in a survival/SHTF type situation, you are going to have to use your knife for things you probably shouldn't use it for, but you can't carry a tool-box with you all the time, can you?


Regards,
Drjones
 
Ed,

I've been eyeing one of those USAF survival knives. Everyone that has had them said they gave great service for decades. Did you just use the included stone to freshen the edge? And you're right, you can't fault a knife for not being a prybar.
 
ALSO:

M38: I simply cannot believe anyone hasn't mentioned this yet. If you are preparing for a survival type situation, you MUST have a multi-tool, including a can-opener.

Sure, you could use a knife as a screwdriver etc., but it would be easier, faster, and save your equipment undue abuse if you had some other options.

Again, you can't carry a tool box everywhere, but with a multi-tool, you can come close!!! :)
 
Drjones:

No offense taken sir.

I understand your comments well and could not agree more actually. I didn't want people who can't afford the striders and their kind to not pick up a k-bar becuase they believed them weak.

They, of course, don't come close to the striders, busse, or swamprat products. I'm actually thinking of ordering a swamprat just to have it.

I like my SRK cold steel for most of those chores required but it could use some company like any others I own.:p

Dan:
They [ usaf ]are pretty rugged knives in their own right.
Even the Navy issue, though shorter blade can take a hell of a beating. If it was a good price I'd grab either for most jobs I'd need it for but if the price difference wasn't that much I'd go with the swamprats as well.

Brownie
 
If fighting with a knife is considered, a HI kuk would be a good choice. (My favorite is the 16.5" WWII w/ wood handle.) Kuks are great for big knife tasks like chopping down small trees or killing bears. (Yes, it's been done, and yes, it was a self-defense situation.) The down side to a big knife is that it's big...kinda like the up side to a big knife. :D Vehicle or pack carry is probably the way to go with these, with a smaller blade for delicate tasks.

A knife is a tool that will serve more poorly than many other choices for defensive use. Long sticks and firearms are much preferred.

John
 
Dan:)
Re:the AF knife.
Yes I used the included stone. It really wasn't a good stone. I had to use it a lot. Today I like the diamond dust stones and wish I had one then. I have one now that probably is about the same size.
I also strongly agree that one knife is never enough. You need a small knife for surgerin' and a medium sized one for cuttin' and a big one for whackin'.
 
A bit above your price limit, but still a lifetime quality product are any of the Chris Reeve products, folder to fixed, large to small.

http://www.chrisreeve.com/home.html

The whole "Stuff in the handle", good sheath, stout blade, survival, field and fighting (I do so much of that :D ). Don't forget a quality sharpening kit/stone/sticks.

Check out Ka-Bar's Impact line in D2.

http://1sks.com

http://discountknives.com

But there's nothing wrong with a good old Kabar from Camillus or Ka-Bar or a SAK as well. You should have 1 of each. Some form of Pliers might come in handy at times

Adios
 
Hoo Boy, this thread takes me back to my days on BladeForum!

I believe you need more than one knife in a survival situation. When I go backpacking I have a SAK--Fireman with the sidelock. A Leatherman Juice S4. and one of these three that didn't break the bank and will do anything asked of them.

In the summer and when blackberries and other brush OT might be between me and survival:

Livesay AK (Adventure Knife) in 1095 oil cooled steel

For Winter and the rainy season when corrosion resistance and cold weather performance is vital: Fallkniven A1 in VG-10 stainless.

a1blgul.jpg


or the smaller F1 for being around the uncomfortable granola munchers closer to civilization:

f1blblue.jpg


These two are also available without the coating. All three of these knives are full tang constructed. The Fallknivens have been extensively tested in arctic conditions and is the Swedish armed forces survival knife (F1). These knives have the tang exposed at the "pommel" for pounding.

The Livesay was about $150, the two Fallknivens I got for about $100 (A1) and $70 (F1). All are expensive enough to be of impeccable quality, but not so expensive I am going to worry about their destruction if that is what it takes to get out of whatever.

In light of recent backpacking stories, all will cut your arm off better than any multi-tool.:barf:
 
Ladies and Gentlemen,
If one must choose only ONE knife for survival, the Cold Steel Gurkha Kukri must be considered. For combat, hunting, movement, and construction purposes, it's a definite "keeper." An alternative to this would be another Cold Steel product, the Bolo Machete. Think strong, durable, well made, and reliable. With either, you cannot lose. Just my two cents worth...

Regards and Respects,
Carter, oldpaladin, out..
 
The post about needing a knife you can carry all the time since nobody can predict when a possible SHTF scenario could occur got me thinking as did all of the wise posts adivising against just one knife, so ....
I bought a Spyderco Military (and Jester for around the office)
I will eventualy buy a strong crate opening, cider block cutting knife
and I will buy a multi tool
Thanks Everybody!
 
My current hard-use utility fixed blade is a McCann Industries Puffin Magnum. It's a nice, big, beefy knife with a blade that is good for both chopping and cutting.

An interesting gizmo I saw recently that takes the "knife-as-field-tool" concept to an extreme is the TOPS Smoke Jumper. Really more a crowbar with an edge; you have to see the blade in cross section, as it's the full .25" thick pretty much all the way out to the tip. There's no false edge, it's just ground flat. :uhoh: Gave one to a friend for Christmas when he was considering joining the USMC.

As far as an EDC folder that can stand in for utility chores if need be, well, I'm pretty confident in my large Sebenza. :cool:
 
brownie,

Very tip-heavy.

It's not really a tanto, but you have to see the blade from the point end to really grock it; where it looks like a false edge/swedge? It's just ground flat there. The thing is the full .25" thickness all the way out; literally a sharpened crowbar that only bears a passing resemblance to a knife, but it must be hella bad for chopping and prying chores. PM lendringser and see if he can take a photo of the blade at an angle and you'll see what I mean...
 
I am going to put my 2 cents on the Glock field knife for survival, rather - a gaggle of Glock field knives. Cheap, sharp, robust, ugly but cool. I collect them and am impressed.

Built like a shovel, they are pretty tough and they are so inexpensive, you don't care if you abuse them. Buy lots. If you break one - who cares. Keep one in the tool box and glove box too.

Matter of fact, just bought one today (my fourth) in olive drab without the saw tooth on the inverse - $27.99. Heck, if you are thirsty, it has a bottle opener on it. Them Austrians do love their beer!

Oh yea, the Finnish Fallkniven, I would love to have one. Can't seem to get them easily though. Wanted one of those laminated A2 blades awhile back and the internet was no help.

If any THR member knows where I can purchase the A2 Fallkniven, I would appreciate knowing where.
 
.25 all the way out ?, next time I'm at one of the local shows I have to get a look at it.

Tops has a table at this one show they hold 4 times a year. Never saw that on the table but will ask next time out.

Thats one hard use tool there. Congrats

Brownie
 
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