Whats the best 223 silencer, for the $$$

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brighamr

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Looking for a silencer for an MP15. So far I've seen them from $399 up to $1400 not including the tax. So, does anyone know of a decent silencer towards the low end of the price range? (My wife asked me to buy one :D )

Edit: Also, if you could recommend a site where they are sold, that'd be awesome!
 
no question, YHM makes the best can for the money. almost everybody makes a better can, but the competition's not twice as good and YHM is usually around 40-60% of the cost of said competition.
 
What are your needs? Are you concerned about heat build-up? Shift in zero? Do you need to be able to remove and attach the can easily? Lifespan? Weight? Are you just looking for good sound reduction?

Generally, most suppressors are very effective at sound reduction (and the larger they are, the more effective they are). You start getting into the higher money when you need things like a quick-detach can that can stand up to full-auto, weight less than 20oz and has a minimal shift in zero.

At the lower end, I have heard good things about both the YHM and the TAC cans; but have not used either.
 
Taliv -Thanks for the tip!

RTFM - thanks. I had tried to register there but they don't accept free e-mail addresses, and unfortunately i can't use my work e-mail for gun forums :)

Bart- I should have specified this. Basically my wife loves to shoot the MP15 (her first AR experience), but it's a lot louder than her .22. She stated she would shoot the MP a lot more if we could reduce the noise.

So I'm looking for a cheap noise reducer, preferrably that could be removed (screw on). Doesn't have to be quick attach, just not permanent. Not too concerned with weight or POI shift, moreso just cost and noise reduction.

Anyone recommend a good place to buy these? I'm leaning toward YHM...

Edit: Found this http://www.redcloudind.com/(A(HN4v2...duct.aspx?ID=21&AspxAutoDetectCookieSupport=1 YHM Quick Detach Suppressor for $595. Is that a good deal?

I prefer to buy from someone who's recommended if possible.
 
I did a lot of reading over the past 6 months and decided on the YHM, mainly for value (quality per dollar spent.) I don't shoot full auto, my life won't depend on it, it was a decent price from a reputable manufacturer. It also gets good reviews.

I don't have it yet, so I can't give any sort of review.
 
brigham, i'd recommend looking for a dealer in the state you're in. you'll need a class III dealer there anyway to do the transfer and if you don't buy from them, they'll probably charge you quite a bit more to do the transfer than a standard 4473.

subguns and ar15.com's EE are good places to look for local dealers. also, auctionarms has a reference page for local dealers, i believe.

of course, i think one of the mods here is a class 3 dealer in UT... wouldn't hurt to look him up
 
Buy a M4-1000 from Major Malfunction for ~$500. You'll be happy, as the M4-1k is QD, made by AAC, fully welded, sturdy, and quiet as far as .223 silencers go.

Link
 
Taliv - thanks for the suggestion. There's only 2 dealers in my state, and neither of them stock YHM/Tac. I didn't think to ask them how much a transfer would cost. (They sell in-house built silencers for $700+). I thought of buying from that particular Mod, but their website is down...

PTK - thanks for the tip! gonna check them out now.

Thanks all for the suggestions!

Edit: looked at the link PTK provided, those are the best prices I've seen thus far, hands down. Owe you a beer PTK :)
 
Elite Iron, good luck findin one, but if you can they are the best can's out there, they are heavy but they will oulast the competition that is for sure.
 
AAC M4-1000 very well built, has a very good mount system, and yet one of the cheapest for 223.
 
Another thing to keep in mind is that suppressors increase backpressure and this causes gas to blow into the face of the shooter usually. Some of the new shooters who have shot my rifle suppressed liked the reduction in noise; but weren't fond of the gas in the face (mostly only noticeable indoors with my rifle).

You might want to ask about that when looking at suppressors.
 
Bart - agreed. I've been reading reviews with pictures of guys with gas mustaches on the right side of their face :) While we're on the topic, has anyone found a way to solve this annoyance? I like to shoot 500-1000 rounds per outing, and I'm sure I'll end up with that mustache...

I'm thinking YHM QD for now. I might pony up the dough for a M4-2000 later, but for that much $$$ I'd want to try before i buy.
 
around here, the best silencer for the money is a feather pillow. as silencers are illegal in michigan. i e-mailed the Michigan State Police to find out for certain.
 
hopefully this isnt a threadjack, as I think it may be useful info the help the OP make a better decision too, and he says noise is the #1 issue, but POI change and heat arent, but that may change slightly, and cause him to eliminate ceratin suppressors, based on the answers to my question, so here goes.

worst case scenario, how "bad" is the heat Bartholemew Roberts refers to? same for PIO change? What would the "average" effect be for those 2 things on a mid-level can to lower end can? Is the heat thing likely to casue any damage from "normal", common sense semi-auto fire (meaing, nit dumping mag after mag, after mag rapid fire, as that will start to cause trouble even without a can on many guns)? How much POI impact is normal/the average on mid-lever to lower end cans?

I knew aboutthe gas venting out the rear on things like AR's, since I 've seen some pics of guys with a "dirty sanchez"streak on thier face from it, but didnt really know abou heat and POI change.I think info on the above questions might be very useful to myself, the OP, and others who have no real knowledge, or personal experiance with suppressors.

If this cause to much drift from the OP's question ,or he doesnt want to hear the answers for whatever reason, just speak up and I'll understand, or just ignore me and dont answer. Dont want to derail, but I think it's good info that is germaine to the OP.

Thanks
 
The YHM cans are good for the money. I like the ones that work with their flash hider. I have been selling them for 550 with the FH.
 
I've got the AAC M4-2007 that I'm quite pleased with, this years model is even better. The quick attach/detach to the flash hider is convenient and spring loaded so it'll never back off. The new one can also use the Blackout flash hider which is better than the Phantom on mine. Blowback has also been lessend on the new one, I've got the PRI Gasbuster charging handle. It is FA rated. Makes my 16" RRA sound like a .22LR.

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The AAC M4-1000 Mod 08 sounds like the best match for what the OP is seeking. It is reasonably priced (500-550), fully-welded, has an Inconel blast baffle, EDM stepped bore, under 20oz, and QD (you may not think you need it, but trust me, you do).

Tac-16s sound good but are not particularly well-made, and are quite heavy. They would be suitable for a .223 bench/target gun, but not a carbine that will be shot offhand.
 
jrfoxx - good questions. I've researched some (POI change, heat, etc) but getting other's opinions is always a good thing.

KingTiger "I've got the PRI Gasbuster charging handle". Can you give some more info on this? All the reviews of charging handles made to lessen blowback have been negative. You're the first I've heard that it actually made a difference.

Conqueror - Can you tell me why the M4 is better than the YHM? both have QD, are fully welded, under 20oz. The only real difference I can see is that the YHM is $200 less. I'd appreciate being swayed if you know of any other differences.

Appreciate all the info guys. I found a seller and a local CL3 for the transfer, now just need to make up my mind! Decision is between the M4-1000 or the YHM Phantom QD.
 
On gas blowback, a PRI Gasbuster helps mitigate the problem but does not eliminate it. Being outside helps as well and cans with a larger expansion chamber seem to handle backpressure better. Running the rifle a little drier can also help.

Having said all that, some gas in the face is inevitable.

jrfoxx said:
worst case scenario, how "bad" is the heat Bartholemew Roberts refers to?

Cans are basically converting noise energy into heat. So they heat up much, much faster than your barrel. Most of the heat stays in the can. It will make the rifle run slightly hotter; but not dramatically so. The can however, will get plenty hot and with a 500-1000 round schedule will get branding iron hot. Depending on how fast you fired that many rounds, you could even see structural failure in some cans.

Safety wise, you need to keep in mind that your extra six inches (or so) of barrel is capable of inflicting serious burns, melting nylon, charring wood rests, etc. when it gets warmed up.

same for PIO change? What would the "average" effect be for those 2 things on a mid-level can to lower end can?

Tough to say as every manufacturer is different and even individual cans within a manufacturer's line can be different. Generally though, you are going to have a noticeable shft in zero when you attach the suppressor, although with the higher end cans the shift will usually be smaller (with my Ops Inc. 16th model I am seeing about 1" at 100yds). Barrel rigidity also has an affect on this.
 
does anyone have any experience with SureFire suppressors? looking at their website they seem rather promising, not that it matters much to me at the moment, they're to evil for me to be trusted with one here in NY.
 
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