Whats the deal with scopes?

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matai

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So how much do you gotta spend to get a scope that doesn't have a super narrow field of view??? I'm getting tired of these scopes that every time you move a millimeter it turns all black.

Anybody else have these problems??
 
Sounds like you need a scope with a bigger eye box, not wider field of view. If you have variable mag, turn it down some. If not, look for something with a low low-end mag. Also, look at higher quality scopes. When I upgraded from Bushnells to Leupolds I noticed a huge improvement in the size and depth of the eye box.
 
+1 on Leupold. There are other scopes that have better glass for less money, but the eye box and eye relief are what have sold me on them. For a hunting scope where you may have to mount your gun quickly and find your target nothing else I've tried comes close.
 
Several companies have adressed this with rectangular or oval shaped objectives to allow you more side to side vision. As for 'moving a millimeter' and seeing black, you need a scope with either longer eye relief or you have adjusted it too far forward or back.
 
Several companies have adressed this with rectangular or oval shaped objectives to allow you more side to side vision. As for 'moving a millimeter' and seeing black, you need a scope with either longer eye relief or you have adjusted it too far forward or back.
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I have not seen any of those on any well respected scope maybe as a passing fad besides the weird Leupold with the cutout objective. Circular objectives and oculars are best due to giving the best O-ring seal and not allowing places for stress fractures to build up (like corners). Anyhow to the OP look for a scope with more eye relief and make sure you are using a scope with the proper parallax setting for your shooting range or get a scope with adjustable parallax.
 
Well I just got to try out a Leupold Mark AR 3-9x and thought it was great. I know thats on the low end of the Leopold scopes so I must have kinda low expectations.

I think I might get a VX-II 3-9x40mm which is pretty similar isn't it??

Also I was exaggerating a little about the millimeter thing.
 
I remember Redfield's "Wide Angle" scopes from years ago that had a rectangular objective. Pure marketing gimmick. From what I could see they just chopped the top and bottom off of a circular objective. Barnum was right! ;)
 
I have a Millett TRS-1 and I am very happy with the eye relief on it. It is effortless to use, has great adjustment, and a really nice bright FOV. It costs a heck of a lot less than a Leupold too.
 
Yep.. definitely need to ascend to the next level of quality.

Great quality for the money... Get the Millett LRS-1, I have one on a .22 and it is great! That's right, it's a free country, I can put a 6-25X56 on whatever I want.lol hehehe:neener:

BTW the Millett scopes do come in lesser magnification-

Leupold is good...well.... good luck with the NEW ones!

Weaver is my personal choice when I need a good quality scope and don't have a lot of rubles to spend!
 
To give a strait forward answer to the OP:

1.) Avoid scopes with small ocular lens units.

2.) If possible try to make sure the eye relief specs call for a wide range of eye relief.

3.) Use lower magnification on variables, or if high magnification is a must make sure to buy a scope with a very large objective lens to ensure a good sized exit pupil.

4.) Avoid cheaply made scopes. Of course if you follow the above optics basics you pretty much will avoid cheap scopes.
 
Whats the deal with scopes?
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They are a magnified sight used to make a longer shot than is practical for iron sights. :neener:

Give Nikon a try, they make great optics for the money. As coal dragger said the exit pupil size is very important for eye placement as well as brightness.
 
Make sure when you mount it you have the adjustment to the highest power and can see the "whole circle". Then dial it back to the lowest power and you will have visibility at all settings. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE A LITTLE SPACE BETWEEN YOUR SCOPE AND YOUR FACE!! My brother in law did not and smacked the snot out of himself when he shot his 30.06. It took two months for the scope ring on his face to heal.
 
Start by accepting you will part with about $300.

Go to the gun store and start looking through the good glass there. Eventually you will find something that rings your bell.

Unlike a lot of guys, I have become a real fan-boy of the IOR line. Thousand dollar scopes for $600 or so is a value. The glass is without peer.

Eye relief does seem somewhat more unforgiving than my Burris, however.
 
Start by accepting you will part with about $300.

Go to the gun store and start looking through the good glass there. Eventually you will find something that rings your bell.

Unlike a lot of guys, I have become a real fan-boy of the IOR line. Thousand dollar scopes for $600 or so is a value. The glass is without peer.

Eye relief does seem somewhat more unforgiving than my Burris, however.
 
As stated, higher quality scopes is your answer.

I used to buy cheap scopes, but now I factor the cost of optics at about 50% of the rifle, and it works pretty good for me.

The last rifle I bought was a Kimber ProVarmint, and I put a Burris Black Diamond on it.
 
MAKE SURE YOU HAVE A LITTLE SPACE BETWEEN YOUR SCOPE AND YOUR FACE!! My brother in law did not and smacked the snot out of himself when he shot his 30.06. It took two months for the scope ring on his face to heal.
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Good it wasn't a small eyepiece scope...or there wouldn't be any healing.
I have become a real fan-boy of the IOR line.
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Me too, but I think Ziess is better for the money. It depends upon the features that you want though. Both are fine scopes, and are easy on the wallet compared to scopes of similar quality.
 
I went from a leupold to zeiss (wanted better light gathering, and the zeises just blew Leuopold out of the water to my eyes).

Go to a store that will let you take them outside at dusk and check out clarity in low light.

Leupold, Nikon, or Ziess, I'd go with one of those. Swarovski is awe$ome, and expen$ive
 
Swarovski is awe$ome, and expen$ive
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And, to me the only thing better about them is their crystal, their scopes are good but not better (and perhaps a little worse) than Ziess IMO, so not worth the extra cash.
 
Objective size (in mm) divided by the power gives you the exit pupil. A 42mm X 12power scope will have a exit pupil of 3.5mm. That means that you have to get you eye exactly behind the scope AND that in low light the scope isn't going to fill you eye with light, making things brighter for you. The same scope set to 4X would have a 10.5mm exit pupil. For details see: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Exit_pupil

Better glass =more $= better resolution and light transmission.

Zeiss and Swarvovski are expensive, but if A-B comparison them with a Nikon or Leopold, you will see where you money is going. BSW
 
BSW said:
Zeiss and Swarvovski are expensive, but if A-B comparison them with a Nikon or Leopold, you will see where you money is going.
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Dangit, BSW you win again. There is a lot of difference in a Zeiss and a Leupold, for about the same cash. The following are my personal recommendations for scopes according to preference and price...Premier Reticles, IOR, Ziess, Nikon, Sightron, Bushnell. This is just my personal opinion as to what the best for the price-point are, there are advantages for each of the above, and most of the forerunners are not necessary for the average hunter or shooter.
 
Come on Maverick.... do you really think a Zeiss is better than a Swarovski?

You want a top o'the line piece of glass.... Kales... there is no other!
That's just because I bought one the other day..... :D

Does a $50 3-9X40 have a smaller exit pupil than a $600 3-9X40??

Careful- :D
 
do you really think a Zeiss is better than a Swarovski?
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Yep...but they are close, certainly better for the money, but the Swaro does have the better emblem on the side. :D I like Kahles, except for the wire reticle, but I have heard of no failures due to the design and they have good glass, and the multi-point zero (in some models) which is handy, so no complaints.
Does a $50 3-9X40 have a smaller exit pupil than a $600 3-9X40?
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Technically no, but a scope with better glass (not necessarily more expensive) will have a larger effective exit pupil due to distortion and achromatism at the edges of lower quality glass.
 
It all depends on how much you want to spend just like anything else. If money is not an object here are your top scopes in no particular orders.

1) Schmidt & Bender
2) Swaro
3) Kahles
4) US Optics
5) Nightforce


That is right i did not mention Leupold. Go to snipershide.com and read the horror stories with Leupold and their great new customer service. I am sure it is a great scope for hunting or mild to moderate use but for beat em, abuse em, throw them off the cliff and still covered under warranty you need to look at those mentioned:)
 
Blackout is mostly a function of exit pupil, which is directly related to objective lens size and magnification. The larger the objective lens, the larger the exit pupil, and thus the less quick blackout occurs, ceteris paribus, and vice versa. The lower the magnification, the larger the exit pupil, and thus the less quick blackout occurs with eye movement, ceteris paribus, and vice versa.

Exit pupil in mm = Objective lens size in mm divided by magnification. You want an exit pupil as large as possible, up to 5 or 6mm or so. I like a bare minimum of around 1.5-1.8 even on the highest magnification.

So, yes, you do spend more to get the larger objective lens scopes, with a set/given magnification that you like.

Scope/glass quality also has something to do blackout, but not as much as the strict exit pupil size calculation.
 
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