wheel weights

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Jmurman

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I am just starting to reload and have a question about wheel weights used for casting bullets.

I work at a auto dealership and have as many as I want, however, they are all painted. How do you remove the paint and what about the steel clip that holds it to the tire?
 
Heat. The same heat that melts them takes care of all ot that. The steel clips float to the top and are scooped off and thrown into the scrap bucket. The paint will either burn away or will also float to the surface and be thrown away. About 15 gallons of wheelweights makes almost a 5 gallon bucket of scrap steel and junk.
 
flux?

what is it? why do I need it.

I see that you have a coleman propane bottle with a camp stove attachment...is that right? I would have not thought of that. I assumed that you would need a "furnace" of some mfg.
 
The way to go is to render down all your wheel weights into almost clean ingots. Then these ingots are used in your casting pot and require very little fluxing/cleaning. You don't want all the dirt and crap that are on WW's anywhere near your casting pot. I render my WW's down on a camp stove in an old stainless steel kitchen pot and pour into small loaf pans for 10-12 pound ingots. When it comes time to cast I drop an ingot or two into my electric bottom pour pot, flux and skim and start casting.

My setup is attached below. All those silver bricks are my WW ingots ready to go :D
 
Ditto everything said about rendering wheelweights into ingots, except instead of using a camp stove I use a Propane burner of the type used to deep fry turkeys. I dump the WWs into a cast iron pot and when the lead melts, I scoop off the steel scrap and dirt, then pour the lead into one pound ingot molds. When I get ready cast I use the ingots to fill my Lee bottom pour pot. I do all my fluxing after the lead is in the pot. I would use larger ingots but they wouldn't fit.
 
What about lead bullets recovered from the shooting range? Are they useable?
 
My setup is attached below. All those silver bricks are my WW ingots ready to go

so, I ake then that the stuff in the coffee cans is scrap? Also, you say that you use a cast iron pot to melt your lead for the final product...do you do anything special to care for that pot? I have some nice cast iron skillets and I love to cook with them, and I have to season them frequently.

Sorry for so many questions, and thanks for all of your help.
 
I use an old muffin tin (dont' use it for muffins again!) for an ingot mold. Works like a CHARM. They'll fall out when cool. One important thing though, put that muffin pan on a sheet of wood, not directly on something you like. My porch has a muffin pan polka-dot affect in one spot...hmm wonder why? I figured it out early enough to keep it from getting bad, but this might keep you out of the doghouse.

Stuff in the coffee cans is trash. Don't use any cooking pans for lead! Use something you get from the thrift store that looks like it can take some heat and weight on the handle. No "care" is required...you're just using it as a rendering pot.

When the WW render down and you have this thick smoke pouring off and the clips are at the top, toss in a match...no need to strike it. Make sure you STAND BACK and make sure that the lead is FAR AWAY FROM ANYTHING FLAMMABLE as the smoke will light up instantly and burn off that toxic crap (grease, paint, and whatever else those guys put in the barrel). Having a fire extinguisher by your side before hand is a good thing.

As you are rendering, you want to scrape the bottom and sides of the pot with something...I like the holey strainer-spoons from a camping dept of a store. (all tools should have long sturdy handles) You want to scape the sides because the great weight of the lead can pin smaller impurities to the sides and bottom of the pot, despite the "light stuff floats" concept.

You need some good gloves (I use oven mitts) because it gets toasty sometimes.

Did anyone mention to NEVER EVER let water drip into the lead? The results are basically EXPLOSIVE as the water will turn to steam and expand instantly. The MOLTEN LEAD will then splash all over you and everything else you care about that has the ability to scream. IOW, if you are sweating like a pig, wipe your brow before you hang your head over the lead pot all silly-like.
 
FLUXING

JMURMAN,

fluxing is imperative in order to clean the molten mix and to return the floating tin/antimony/arsenic (and maybe other desirable metals) into the mix. I'm not sure if fluxing converts lead oxide back into pure lead--some say it does.

I have used ammonium chloride ('sal ammoniac', a white powder that's corrosive/promotes rusting), beeswax, paraffin, and candles. Only a pinch is required. I usually ignite the emissions (smoke) but sometimes do not.

REPEAT the warning on avoiding MOISTURE--I still bear scars on my waist where the elastic on my briefs melted into my skin.
 
Bullet Casting

Jmurman,

I suggest that you use the search engines to dig up some articles on bullet casting.

There are a few variables you may wish to consider. For example the bullet alloy may be adjusted by adding some lead from other sources (lead pipe, etc.). While not essential, this would soften the final product in proportion to the amount of lead added. For most uses though, a hard metal blend is good. The alloy content will also affect the temperatures required for good quality casting results.

With an electric melting pot, you can adjust the temperature for optimum casting results and eliminate the need for using a dipper. Too hot or too cool a mix will produce imperfect bulltes.

When using a flux, you want to stir the mix with a wooden handled spoon or similar item. As mentioned parrafin, candles, and other materials will serve as a flux to keep the alloy blended and to promote contaminants to float to the surface.

To minimize the risk of lead poisoning, it is wise to cast bullets only in a well ventilated area, preferably outside of the house. A garage with open doors would be good.

Steel moulds need to stored with proper rust protection. If using oil, it can be wiped off with a cloth prior to casting. Sometimes using a little solvent will remove the oil more effectively. Heating the mould by casting will burn off any small amounts of oil remaining.

Reloading catalogs offer a number of clues relating to various accessories for bullet casting. See Widener's, Cabela's, Natchez, etc.

Bullet casting is great fun and certainly a practical way to produce low or no cost bullets.

Best of luck.

"ArmaLube Hits The Mark"
 
You have received very good advice and comments. One thing I will disagree on is hardness of alloy.

A hard bullet that is under sized for the cylinder throat and barrel will tend to lead and a softer bullet will not. Most commercial cast bullets are harder than they need to be if they are the correct size for your gun. If using a hard alloy, better to be over size than under size. Leading is not caused by the passage of the bullet but by the gases that escape around the sides of a bullet that does not fill the lands and grooves of the barrel.

Get a Lyman cast bullet handbook and study it, then enjoy the pleasures of casting as I have for the last 35 years. God Bless America.
 
I have cleaned tons of scrap lead

I have cleaned tons of scrap lead when I had my 3 ton smelter. Being inside is not good enough. Do it on a patio with an overhead cover and use a fan on you if needed. Do not try to melt a car battery. There has been some good advice above but I did my cleaning immediately after melting the scrap. I used a magnet to get the steel clips, a sieve for the brass tire valve stems that got thrown in the tire weights bucket and candle wax only ignited for fluxing and a flat bladed steel shovel to scrape the sides and bottom of the pot that was 3 feet square and deep.

After fluxing enough I used a ladle to remove the remaining dry arsenic, cadmium, copper, silver and gold dry powder from the top of the pot and sold the steel clips, brass valves and powder slag all back to the scrap yard where I got most of the lead from. They told me what the slag contained when they paid for it.

A drop of sweat ruined a pair of polyester pants and after that I wore kahakis and a nylon apron that the lead would peel off of. The reason for being under a roof is that a seagull dropped his you can guess what in the pot and I had some burn marks for years.

I cleaned til the top was clean with a light blue tint. Then would pour into my 4 cavities on each side of a 8 cavity linotype 30 pound ingot rotating mold and the hot cooling water went into my swimming pool.

The Lino ingots went into my bulletmaster machines with a pulley system.

For my small tabletop bottom pour pot I would cast in to one pound ingots, preheat them along the sides of the pot top and flux again with a large table spoon held in a pair of visegrips. No gloves were needed. I used 8 and 10 cavity H&G molds when I had strong wrists.

I only have two 50 pound smelters now that I am retired. One is new and not needed.

I feel that bullets are a silvery functional work of art and I like casting and reloading more than shooting as I have proved myself enough in shooting. Teaching and being helpful is rewarding now that I am retired.

I would like us to have a separate bullet casting forum.

John Paul Fitz Jones
 
While we're adding handy tips: If you want purer lead, don't flux-just skim the dross in order to turn unknown alloys into better purer lead for use in muzzleloaders or for shotgun slugs.
 
fluxing is imperative in order to clean the molten mix and to return the floating tin/antimony/arsenic (and maybe other desirable metals) into the mix. I'm not sure if fluxing converts lead oxide back into pure lead--some say it does.

That's still in debate.. According to the lead metalurgy expert in the latest Lyman cast bullet handbook.. antimony/tin/arsenic do not gravitate out of molten lead. The only way you'd be able to seperate them is in a centrifuge.

Of course, the book goes on to suggest otherwise, but I'll take the word of the metalurgist first (he's credentials are very good).
 
J Murman

I don't see where anyone answered your questions about where to get ingot molds. You can either purchase one pound four cavity ingot molds from RCBS, Lyman, Lee, or any other maker of casting equipment, ( Check with Midway , catalog or midwayusa.com) or you can have one made up from angle iron with as many cavities as you want. Mine has 10 cavithie and produces approx. 1pound tiiangular ingots measuring 1" high by 4" long.
 
Ingot molds

I sold lots of Saeco ingot molds but had fun welding my own from angle iron. I made some 2 feet long for my bulletmaster machines.

The previous idea is good as you can weld as many short ones as you want or can make partitions in longer molds.

The whole process on making your molds and alloying your lead is great fun.

For someone that wants pure lead then BUY PURE LEAD instead or trying to clean tire weights.

Ask me for my post on buying lead at scrap yards to get what you want.

If you want soft buy soft
If you want hard buy hard

Let your fingers do the walking in the nearby big cities to find the scrap yards in the phone book.

Give me your address for my scrap yard post as it is too long for here.
John Paul
 
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fluxing is imperative in order to clean the molten mix and to return the floating tin/antimony/arsenic (and maybe other desirable metals) into the mix. I'm not sure if fluxing converts lead oxide back into pure lead--some say it does.
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quote:
That's still in debate.. According to the lead metalurgy expert in the latest Lyman cast bullet handbook.. antimony/tin/arsenic do not gravitate out of molten lead. The only way you'd be able to seperate them is in a centrifuge.

Of course, the book goes on to suggest otherwise, but I'll take the word of the metalurgist first (he's credentials are very good).



BRAINDEAD0: I'm not a metallurgist, only a caster of over 25 years. Everything I've read indicates non-lead metals FLOAT (I didn't say gravitate/sink) on the surface of molten lead -- thus one of the reasons for fluxing. I know there is a distinct color change in the molten mix after fluxing.
 
I'm not a metallurgist, only a caster of over 25 years. Everything I've read indicates non-lead metals FLOAT (I didn't say gravitate/sink)

Gravitation is the seperation of metals in a alloy via gravity only (no mechanical seperation). If you get a copy of the latest Lymans casting book you will read otherwise regarding fluxing. I've been trying to contact the author, with no luck. But, his credentials include several awards for lead metallurgy and related.... and he's a consultant for Laser-cast.

The color change you see at the surface of lead it most likely oxidation, fluxing doesn't allow oxygen to contact the molten lead...thus no oxidation.

As a side note, I've been casting since I was about 9yrs old (with my dad of course). There is no scientific evidence supporting the need to flux as far as I can find, only lots of people saying "that's the way it's done".. including my dad of course...cause that's what he was told.
 
Fluxing with candle wax works

I made the majority of the bullets I used in the 3 million rounds I loaded and candlewax fluxing worked great for me. I feel that the makers of any other fluxing ingredient laugh all the way to the bank.

I ran 2 bulletmaster machines turning out 4,800 bullets per hour and sold 39 of them so that is some basis for success in knowing that fluxing with candle wax works for me and for the thousands of my customers of California Saeco lead pots, 4 cavity bullet molds and Lead hardness testers I sold.

John Paul
 
Anything I'd shoot less that 1100 fps, I shoot straight wheel weights - pitsol or rifle & depending on a really good fit & lube, you can go another 3-400 fps better than that.

I melt & flux (to remove most of the impurities) over a Coleman stove on the deck & w/bullet lube (just because I've a bunch on-hand I don't use any more) After skimming off the junk/fluxing, etc., I pout 1 lb ingots (but Steve's muffin pan sounds pretty good & cheaper) for later casting.

You'll still have to flux while casting, in my experience. Just part o' the deal.
 
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