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when you receive a brand new rifle

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thomis

thomis

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Jan 20, 2009
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What is the first thing you do? I mean after you look it over and admire it...do you take it apart? To learn how it goes together?
Before you shoot it for the first time? I've read about such things as seating the recoil lug and/or "tuning the stock".
Some people say tuning the stock (using a torque driver to torque the action screws to certain inch-pound settings) is just as important as finding the right bullet/ load.
Do you clean the bbl before you fire the first shot?
Do you shoot factory ammo through it first, or put your hand loads through it first?
What is your routine with a new rifle?

I'm receiving a new Model 70 Featherweight .308 any day now and I've been gearing up for it.
 
Unless it's a hand lapped barrel, the first thing I do is put the Tubb Final Finish through the bore. If you have access to a Hawkeye Borescope you'll see the tooling marks near the throat. The Tubb system makes your barrel perform the best that it can in that profile.
 
What is the first thing you do?
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First thing: Clean it.
I mean after you look it over and admire it...do you take it apart? To learn how it goes together?
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Not my BLR, no. Others, absolutely.
Before you shoot it for the first time? I've read about such things as seating the recoil lug and/or "tuning the stock".
Some people say tuning the stock (using a torque driver to torque the action screws to certain inch-pound settings) is just as important as finding the right bullet/ load.
Click to expand...
I have not done this.
Do you clean the bbl before you fire the first shot?
Click to expand...
Yes.
Do you shoot factory ammo through it first, or put your hand loads through it first?
Click to expand...
I've never bought factory .270 Win ammo. Not once. Reloads only.
What is your routine with a new rifle?
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Open box. Inspect. Clean. Mount optic. Shoot it.

The last two can go in reverse order though.
 
I break it down completely, spray all bearing surfaces down with brake cleaner, dry with compressed air, then lube with Mobil 1 10W 30. I then run a few dry patches down the barrel then apply either Tubb Final finish or JB Bore paste (JB if the tooling marks are pretty rough) to make for the best shine I can get in the bore. On some I'll glass bed the action and barrel on others, such as the newer aluminum bedded stocks, there is no need. I then reassemble to proper torque values and take to the range. I always break the barrels in with a puppy load that I worked up for cartridge for a 100 rounds or so. Then I'll work up a serious loading for the best performance. Sometimes thats the maximum loads, other barrels perform just below the max.
 
Clean it all over (including the bolt) then run a couple of patches down the barrel (make sure you run dry patches down the barrel and chamber so their is no oil or grease in there before you shoot it). If it's a new caliber I dont reload for I usually buy a few boxes of bullets (ei: different brands/weights) sight the scope in and then find what one ammo groups best buy a few more boxes, then shoot the hell out of it, then use that once fired brass to start reloading (usually wait to reload until I have between 100-200 once fired cases depending on how much I shoot it). IMO the barrels on the new Winchesters are pretty good so I would worry about any Tubbs Final Finish or Lapping it with paste (IMO unless you know what you are doing you can do more harm then good).

I usually adjust the trigger on my new rifles before I shoot them and most of the time to do that you have to take the barrelled action out of the stock so I will just give it a wipe down to clean it then another wipe down with an oily rag then put it back into the stock if you dont have a torque wrench or driver no big deal just do up the screws so they are firm and even.
 
I do clean first to get rid of any packing grease or excessive oil. That goes for the action and the barell. On centerfires, I'll mount the optics before I shoot, rimfires, I'll go ahead and shoot first.
I don't usually shoot factory rounds first. I now have guns that have never fired a factory round. I like it that way. There was an exception to that recently. I got the wife a .243 and didn't have dies or components on hand yet, so I went ahead and picked up a couple boxes of factory ammo.

Congrats on the new rifle. It's a fine firearm that you'll no doubt love.
 
thomis, this is my method.
1. Remove the bolt from the receiver. Remove the three large screws that hold the barreled action to the stock. Gently lift the action out of the stock. Wipe all of the metal parts with solvent and then light gun oil to make sure they are clean. Re-assemble the rifle. Tighten the front screw snug, then the rear screw snug, and then the center screw snug. Then in the same order tighten all of the screws firm.
2. Clean the inside of the barrel from the rear. Use solvent first, then pull a brush through the barrel about 5 times. Then clean patches and then lightly oil the bore. After you shoot the rifle about 5 times repeat this cleaning process, shoot 5 times and repeat the cleaning process until you have fired about 25 rounds.
3. You can use either factory or handloaded ammo. It makes no difference, howeven, the handloaded ammo may be more accurate.
 
1. Thoroughly inspect firearm for damage or flaws.

2. Unless otherwise directed by owners manual clean entire firearm.

3. Inspect bore

4. Test fire

5. Clean and re-inspect firearm.
 
I remove bolt clean bore small amount of grease on locking lugs,if a target was included I use same commerical ammo recommend,while I reload I want a base to use in my reloading. I do not and will not remove the stock prior to shooting again I want a base starting point as to how it shoots from factory.

If after this I see a problem with accuracy then and only then begin check stock bolts,scope bases, etc.

It works for I see no need for a complete break down of a new rifle it only invites errors.
 
I check the bolts, make sure they are tight and then I shoot it. Barrel break in is mostly bs, like a lot of vehicle companies stating engine breakin. Its mostly to prevent warranty claims.
 
1) read the manual!
2) reread the manual!!!
3) clean and inspect everything
4) reassemble and shoot


I never do any modifications until I've shot it in its stock configuration....how else am I going to know what to upgrade?
 
On that note, what do people do when receiving a firearm via FFL? Didn't want to start a new topic for it since its so similar and this will be my first internet/FLL order. Obviously inspect it... Run the action... Anything else?
 
The guy I use now for transfers is a very capable smith. When he gets one of mine in, he checks it out completely. If it doesn't meet his standards, he will call me and let me know. I trust his judgement. Man is damn near as picky as I am. Haven't gotten a bad apple in yet but if it ever happens I am sure when he calls and says it's not a good one I wont even bother driving over. He'll just send it back for me.

I would suggest you do the same. Make sure whoever is doing your transfers is capable and honest. Mine doesn't even charge me for that but we have gotten to be pretty close friends in the last few months. Plus I do some of his stock refinishing jobs for him when he is overwhelmed.
 
Like most here I break it down, visually inspect it and clean it. I also photograph the parts so I have something to compare later to see wear and tear.
 
Knowing me, I've already memorized the instruction manual before the purchase, downloaded from the manufacturer's website or elsewhere.

Then when I finally get it, I'll clean any heavy obvious packing grease off of it, then I run it.

After the first range session is the first time I fully break down and clean the gun completely.
 
I once pushed 16 inches of red grease from the barrel of a Zastava Mini-Mauser. I hate to think what would have happened if I'd figured "It's a new gun, I'll just shoot it.".

Definitely clean and lube your gun before shooting it.
 
It has been so long since I bought a new rifle, I don't remember. However, when I buy a gun, I check it over in detail, clean it, and shoot it.......chris3
 
I recently bought an Anschutz .17 HMR on-line and had it shipped to my Gunsmith who has a FFL. It arrived with the stock disassembled from the barrel and action. It was an easy matter to clean away any packing lube and put the thing together. Then I took it to the range along with my cleaning kit. I cleaned the barrel with solvent, brush, and cleaning patches; same as if I had been shooting it, before ever firing. Then I shot 5 rounds, clean it, shot five rounds, clean it, and repeat this until; I had shot a box of 50. So, that is 10 times. Then I attached the scope, bore sighted it, zeroed, and cleaned it one final time. After that I took it to the prairie dog field and whacked dozens of dogs. It is wickedly accurate. I have done the same procedure with a .243, .223, .204 and have used a mix of factory and reloads. Since the fowling rounds are only for breaking in the barrel, use whatever cheap FMJ ammo you can find; no need to waste money on premium ammo. Have fun with your new rifle. Tom
 
The only real benefit to a "break in period" is that you knock down any burrs that might affect your accuracy or the function of the gun. I suppose it's a good idea to clean out any pieces of metal from that may have gotten knocked off but the extravagant break in procedures some people use are generally not needed IMO.
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That's really according to the barrel maker. Heavy production runs do tend to leave imperfections in the throat and bore. Tools wear over runs. If you happen to get a barrel that was made during the first runs on the bit, then you will more than likely get a very good cut. But a few barrels into it will have some imperfections. Albeit very small ones but a good break in will be needed. I have a very good bore scope that will light these things up like a Christmas tree. Tubbs or JB paste works wonders for these. Followed up with light load rounds (around 100) then you can go up in power.

Your custom barrel makers such as Hart will lap the barrel after the cut to shine it up and make it as slick as possible which is a major part of the expense of custom barrels. Production companies of course can not afford this added expense.
 
I followed the instructions on the Winchester website (thanks Fullboar1). Each time I swabbed the barrel with Butch's Bore Shine the patches came out black. There was no blue or green color indicating copper. I was shooting standard Winchester Super X Powerpoint ammo.
So, does that just mean there wasn't much copper fouling caused by each shot?
 
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