Which 1911 parts to get first?

[Bemo]

Oh ye 1911 Gods!

I have a SA GI mil-spec that I recently purchased and have about 400 rounds through it. It is my first 1911 and it has been absolutely reliable with the factory mags so far. Some dinging of brass as it ejects but nothing that crimps my shorts (hmmm, that would be a taper crimp I suppose). However, I can tell that I will want to do some mods to this fine piece of machinery. Two questions for the 1911 deities. First is an easy one: what's the grip safety radius on a Springer? I always forget.

I'm looking to make the changes slowly over time. So my second question is what parts, singly or in a group, would you change first. To narrow things a bit, nothing is seriously rubbing me the wrong way on the gun. I'm not looking for changes for aesthetics, more for added reliability and slightly better trigger.

As an addendum, are there parts that it would be extremely unwise to slowly swap out? Like changing the sear/hammer but not the safety? Hope my questions are clear, oh ye 1911 gods and I will humbly sacrifice another 200 rounds of roundnose if you see fit to answer.

Thanks

 

[HSMITH]

Put a good set of sights on it and dry fire it 100++ times a day for 45 days. It will show you what is wrong with it when you have done this, and the changes you need to make will be obvious.

 

[P95Carry]

Bemo ............. ''Jan 2003'' ....... ''3 posts'' ????????????

You bin lurkin all this time or - just out the country!?

I am not the one to advise but - if you are lucky and contribute to his pot of genuine old 1911 parts - then our Mr Tuner will I am sure have some pearls of wisdom for you.

<switch on PA system> ......... (calls aloud) .... HEY JOHNNY ....... there's a guy wants your advice''.

Hang loose Bemo .... you need Tuner on this mission!

 

[stans]

If you are talking about the GI milspec as in the one styled like the World War II 1911-A1, the frame tang is not radiused for a beavertail safety. Personally, I find the 1911-A1 safety to be satisfactory, sometimes the hammer will bite, but the end of the hammer spur can be shortened a bit and recontoured to eliminate hammer bite.

Sometimes the edges of the stock grip safety can be sharp, these can also be radiused to make the gun more comfortable to shoot.

I think the first modification you should make would be a set of high visibility sights. The small sights are actually good in that they will not snag on holsters or clothing and they can be used for precision shooting, if they are perfectly regulated. Most of us need larger sights that we can see without squinting.

After the sights are done, invest in a trigger job, unless your gun has a nice, crisp pull.

 

[444]

For the first 40 years of my life I shot 1911s just as they came from the box. Now for some reason I need a beavertail.
So, that is what I would put on it.
People love to put parts on 1911s. They look for any excuse to put a part on a 1911. Some people say they are happy with the gun as is, but stilll ask for advice on what parts to put on it. And none, is not an acceptable answer for them. So, my answer: a beavertail. I could see putting a set of night sights on it. Everything else is a gadget in my opinion.
In case you are wondering, I shoot my 1911 on at least a weekly basis and I have competed in two matches within the last week. It has been through at least three formal training classes and at this point in it's life has a lot of finish missing and the slide is getting loose after who knows how many thousand rounds. So, I use my guns and they work fine just like they came from the box. I don't usually beat the full blown compensated race guns with optical sights, but they don't take me lightly.

 

[Bemo]

3 posts...

Well now you've done it P95, you've made me post a fourth time. I don't post pretty much because I don't have a lot to say. I'm just trying to learn and so I don't try to flaunt my ignorance.

Thanks for the replies so far. It's a given that some improved sights are gonna be needed but that's not first on my list. I do pretty well with the stock sights. And like I said, nothing is seriously uncomfortable. on the pistol. I don't get any hammer bite.

I'm thinking that changing the extractor to a Brown Hardcore would be the first thing I'd do. But after that I'm a little stumped.

I don't want to get into any brand wars as from what I can tell once you get into the major quality manufacturers of aftermarket parts (King's, Wilson, Ed Bown, CMC, C&S, etc) , it becomes more of a personal like/dislike issue than a quality issue.

As I've thought about my question I think I could have been clearer. Are there parts that you really should change out together (e.g. hammer/sear/safety) in order to fit everything properly and not make a potential bigger problem down the road?

Thanks everyone for their help.

 

[Bill Z]

Question #1 Springfield uses a .220 radius. I would reccomend the Smith and Alexander parts for this. They even sell the jig, and are very reasonable I might add.

Question #2 If you are going to change the hammer and sear you may or may not have to change the thumb safety at the same time. Sometimes with a new sear you will still have to file a little off of the safety, however, if the new sear is not complety arrested by the thumb safety you will have to replace it at that time.

Advice: If it's not broke, don't fix it! If it's reliable and you like the trigger pull and the pistol is reliable, and the hammer doesn't bite and the sight picture is satisfactory leave it alone. If you find something that you want to tweak or improve, work on that part of it. Other than that enjoy the pistol.

Now, you can improve the sights by just switching to the Colt commercial sights. They should fit the dovetail and you will have to stake on, or have staked on the matching larger sight. It's taller, a little wifer, and a hell of a lot easier to see. The mil-spec sights are horrible, always have been

The fire control group I would replace as a whole. For me this includes hammer, sear, disconnector, hammer strut, springs and possibly the trigger. If you want to maintain the original look, have the hammer hooks checked and recut if needed on the current hammer. I also like the geometry of the Brown hammer strut, this is a standard for me. If you want the commander hammer, go with the CMC parts, but then you will also have to replace the standard safety with a beavertail safety. The CMC trigger is the easiest to fit in my opinion and if you order direct from CMC you can get their disconnector and have a choice of the trigger bieing silver or black. I'm not sure if Brownell's offers the black trigger or the disconnector.

Extractor? Get two Caspian extractors and possibly a new Firing pin stop. Fit and blend both extractors in the event one ever breaks, which I never have had one break, but I keep the spare for Mr. Murphy as he is alive and well. The new FP stop from Caspian is a little oversized and needs fitting. You can insure you won't get extrator clocking this way and fit it snug enough that you never have to worry about it slipping down and diableing you pistol. This is rare, but has happened, It onky needs to move a few thousanths to trap the firing pin.

The only other two things I would definately do to a Spinger is to check and double check the plunger tube staking, especially if you use aftermarket extended thunb safeties and I would have a smith install a pin to hold the ejector in the frame as most of the current Springers I have seen just have them glued in.

What did I miss Johnny?

 

[halvey]

I'd put a nice matal, flat mainspring housing on it. But that's more of a personal thing for me.

 

[1911Tuner]

e: Parts is Parts

BillZ said:

The fire control group I would replace as a whole. For me this includes hammer, sear, disconnector, hammer strut, springs and possibly the trigger.
________________________

VERY good advice from Bill...Just ask Ken Rainey.
Unless there's an obvious problem with the trigger action...best leave it be.
Swapping one part in the group is risky bidness...Doable, but only
if ya know what issues to look for, and how to correct a problem.

I'd replace the extractor right off the bat. Springfield's extractors
have been a crapshoot lately, and if one gives up the ghost,
a call to Springfield will likely get you another one just like the
other one.

Never used Caspian's extractors, so I can't comment except to say that
I've never heard any complaints from those who do.

If the ejection is erratic and your brass gets dinged up, or you get beaned,
replace the ejector. From the reports here, and personal involvement with
4 in this area, the ejectors are out of spec and there's just not much adjustment to be had with'em. If you opt for an extended ejector, be aware that you'll probably need to shorten the nose to let the pistol eject live rounds...or modify the front of the port...or possibly both. Factory hardball has the longest overall length, and the problem is worst with that ammo. Other, shorter ammo may not produce failure to eject live rounds.

Ejection that is straight up...straight back in your face or over your head...or even to the left of the gun suggests the need for an ejector replacement....even if the gun is reliable. It only takes one case to bounce back into the port to clog the works. Bad JuJu if you carry the gun. A nuisance on a range beater.


Other than that...shoot it and see how things go.

Luck!

Tuner

 

[farscott]

... and your brass gets dinged up ....

Tuner,

I believe the stock "GI" ejection port will ding up the brass. If dinged brass is an issue or there is a need to eject an unfired round out of the port, relieving the ejection port is needed. Or am I missing something?

 

[1911Tuner]

re:

I believe the stock "GI" ejection port will ding up the brass. If dinged brass is an issue or there is a need to eject an unfired round out of the port, relieving the ejection port is needed. Or am I missing something?

Sometimes the stock GI ports will ding the brass a little...usually a small
"V" shaped dent on the mouth...but many won't do it. If the gun ejects
the brass dead on at 2 O'Clock or even a little higher...it won't. If it
ejects closer to 3 O'Clock, it will.

You won't need to open the front of the port for live round ejection unless you use an extended "Commander Type" ejector, and maybe not even then if you shorten the ejector's nose enough to allow for it. The ejector
will be longer than the GI part...but shorter than the ones found in Commanders and other guns with short slides.

SOME...pistols with stock, GI ejection ports require both modifications
for live-round ejection when a long ejector is used. Most don't require port modification if the ejector length is tuned.

Hope this helps...

Tuner