Forster says they put cold forming fluid in their high pressure lube, so beware. Some cold forming fluids have mineral oil in them, and it wouldn't be good to use around primers if that is the case.
Which case lubricant?
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Forster says they put cold forming fluid in their high pressure lube, so beware. Some cold forming fluids have mineral oil in them, and it wouldn't be good to use around primers if that is the case.
twarr1
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+ 1 Hornady One Shot.
P.s. Hornady One Shot case lube
P.s. Hornady One Shot case lube
GeoDudeFlorida
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Mineral oil or mineral spirits? Consumer-grade mineral oil (dietary) shouldn't bother a primer - long as it's not blended with alkyl benzenes and alkanols to form a penetrating oil - but mineral spirits will probably loosen the lacquer sealant and would not be good for most primers when in liquid form. By nature (see what I did there?
) mineral oil is not a penetrating oil, though it is a very good oil for brake fluids, wood working, honing and sharpening. It has to be blended and emulsified with water and/or lower esters to become a penetrating oil.Mineral oil or mineral spirits? Consumer-grade mineral oil (dietary) shouldn't bother a primer - long as it's not blended with alkyl benzenes and alkanols to form a penetrating oil - but mineral spirits will probably loosen the lacquer sealant and would not be good for most primers when in liquid form. By nature (see what I did there?
My point really is that Forster ain't saying what they put in it, so some caution may be prudent. Not that I ever mix any lube with primers, but stuff happens to people.
length_of_pull_1
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I must be crazy. If I feel like lubing handgun brass I give it a shot of Pledge. It smells nice. If I have more than a few rifle cases to resize I put them in a zip lock baggy with a few drops of mineral oil and shake. I never get stuck cases or shoulder dents. Obviously both methods need cleaned off, so a quick wet tumble with dawn and warm water does it.
Pledge is real useful stuff. I used to wipe down airplanes with it.
Mineral oil or mineral spirits? Consumer-grade mineral oil (dietary) shouldn't bother a primer - long as it's not blended with alkyl benzenes and alkanols to form a penetrating oil - but mineral spirits will probably loosen the lacquer sealant and would not be good for most primers when in liquid form. By nature (see what I did there?
I've seen tests that show modern primers are pretty resistant to any oil due to the foil they use to protect the compound. Apparently, what does kill them is vinegar. The acid over a period of time eats the foil and chemically alters the compound.
photosaurus
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Imperial Sizing Wax is the best commercial product I've used. But I just love these "lube substitute" threads. Everything from Brylcreem to KY jelly, or just spit on the case, if nothing else is available. On a warm summer night, try rubbing the case on the side of your nose or behind your ear & you're GTG.
Imperial Sizing Wax is the best commercial product I've used. But I just love these "lube substitute" threads. Everything from Brylcreem to KY jelly, or just spit on the case, if nothing else is available. On a warm summer night, try rubbing the case on the side of your nose or behind your ear & you're GTG.
You're GTG as long as you have that stuck case tool. That being said, Imperial is the one lube that has never failed me and forced me to use said tool.
redcon1
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I don't give resizing lube a chance to come in contact with a live primer anyways. My usual operation is to tumble the residual lube off the case after resizing and before priming. I remove any media from the primer pocket in a subsequent step like trimming--->flash hole/primer pocket uniforming ---->priming. I brush them out too just to make sure there's no media hiding in the case. I used to have to do all that with a separate tool but now the RCBS case prep center makes pretty short work of it all.
I use Hornady and RCBS lubes with the pads that came with reloading kits. I typically only load about 20 rifle rounds at a time, so it works fine. I clean the lube off before reloading. Decades later I'm still using the same two bottles.
I use no lube on straight wall pistol with carbide dies.
I use no lube on straight wall pistol with carbide dies.
RCBS case lube. After sizing I wash the brass in hot water and dish soap, rinse and dry before loading. I use a lube pad, but only roll about half the cases, I spin each of them in my fingers really to lube, and go by how tacky my thumb and finger feel. Well for rifle cases I do this, for pistol I'm a bit less pickly and there isn't a shoulder that will get dented with too much lube. My issue for sure when I started was too much lube and denting cases.
If you are buying Hornady case lube make sure it is the case lube and not something else. needed to size a bunch of 223 and found out I had no case lube left so went to local farm and fleet grabbed what I thought was one shot case lube from the reloading section. It was one shot gun cleaner/lube. Bottles are the same except the name.
BiknSwans
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For 9mm pistol rounds on a progressive press, I use WD-40 Specialist Dry Lube with PTFE. It's available locally at an auto parts store and costs less than Hornady One-Shot. I can't tell the difference between the two. The cost of either is insignificant relative to primers, bullets, range travel, guns, etc.
I lay down a fluffy towel on the work bench, spray the inside of a 1 gallon Zip-Loc bag, and add roughly 200 cases. Then I roll the brass in the ZipLoc bag back and forth into the towel which coats the brass all the way around the case. I dump the cases into the case feeder and let it dry a few minutes while I fill a primer tube. I don't try to remove the dry lube and see no need to do so.
I lay down a fluffy towel on the work bench, spray the inside of a 1 gallon Zip-Loc bag, and add roughly 200 cases. Then I roll the brass in the ZipLoc bag back and forth into the towel which coats the brass all the way around the case. I dump the cases into the case feeder and let it dry a few minutes while I fill a primer tube. I don't try to remove the dry lube and see no need to do so.
AzShooter1
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Hornady One Shot has worked best for me. Before that I was using Dillon Case Prep. I like the Hornady spay better. Less liquid comes out but there is no excess to wipe off.
Occasionally, I will pull a bullet and powder for one reason or another. When I do, I then use a bit of lube and run the case through my sizer die and mandrel die just for uniformity before I load it again. That is the only time my lube gets near my primer.
Gooseman69
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Hornady one shot nothing else needed
Gooseman69
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Reloaders eithier love or hate hornady as a whole.
Myself I think they make a great product 90%,of the reloading tools on my bbench are hornady i also use their brass and have never had an issue with it ,they do what they are designed to do.
gwpercle
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Lee Case Sizing Lube is waxy sizing and forming lube that is water soluable and the least messy , non-greasy , easiest to wipe off . If you mix Denatured Alcohol with Lee Case Lube , as much as will dissolve , strain out any "bits" and put the liquid in a spray bottle ... you can spray on a thin "mist" roll the cases around and let dry for a minute ...then size them . By the time you are finished loading a quick wipe with a cloth is all that's necessary . Be sure and let the spray wax dry on the cases ... it works better as a dry film .
Gary
Gary
CoalCrackerAl
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Keep in mind that if you are using new virgin brass, you need to use the Great Value Extra Virgin Olive Oil spray.
CoalCrackerAl
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I actually started out using the olive oil. Because we cook with it. I tried the canola one time. It worked well. So im staying with it. Saves a buck.
Well, once you've fired your cases once, they are no longer virgin so Canola is fine at that point.
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