Which factory ammo for .357/.38?

[tbige]

A two-part question:

Tuesday I'll be getting a .357 revolver with a 4" barrel and will shoot factory ammo, primarily in .38 special to keep both cost and recoil down.

So first I'd like your advice on a good, widely-available inexpensive target-plinking round in .38. Next, if it isn't asking the impossible, I want to select a decent defensive factory round in .357 that is relatively modest in the flash/bang/recoil category -- and hopefully doesn't require too huge an adjustment in sighting from the .38.

Come to think of it, if I'm not too greedy, I have the same question about .44 Special and .44 mag.

Many thanks for the help.

 

[George S.]

For .38spl general target use, I buy Miwall ammo from Outdoors Marksman in Salem OR. I have some 147gr TMJ reloads that cost me $57.50 for 500 rounds in a GI ammo can. They also have 158gr SWC for $49 in a 500-round can. They carry a variety of brands and bullet weights. www.outdoormarksman.com

Shipping is very reasonable (actual costs and no markups) and they accept credit cards. The only issue is that they ship with an adult signature required deal.

 

[cratz2]

I've mostly shot Winchester White Box 38 Special FMJ through my 686. For the more potent stuff, I've tried a little of this and a little of that. With the heavier guns such as a 4" 686, the different bullet weights don't make a huge difference to me but I prefer the 158 Gr 357 Loads to the 125 Gr 357 Loads. I used to keep it loaded with 4 Blue Glasers followed by two 158 Gr 357 semi jacketed LSWCHPs. Now that were further out in the country, it's kept loaded with just the 158s.

I've put exactly 50 rounds of 44 Special through my SuperBlackhawk through I have a couple boxes on hand for new shooters that want to shoot the Big Boy but aren't quite ready for the full power stuff. I've put a few different boxes of 44 Magnum through it but have settled on 240 Gr Hornady XTPs and that is what my scope is dialed in for at 75 yards.

I'd also like to check out the new Winchester Platinum tip 250 Grs as I've heard consistantly good things about them.

 

[tbige]

After visiting several shops, how does this combination sound for economical, flat-shooting, low recoil-noise-flash:

.38 -- Winchester 125+P (JHP)

.357 -- Winchester 110 (JHP)?

 

[45crittergitter]

Remington makes/made some "medium velocity" .357 loads:

110 gr SJHP @ 1295 fps (projected 85% OSS)
125 gr SJHP @ 1350 fps (actual 82% OSS, and Strasbourg AIT of 7.94 seconds)
125 gr GSHP @ 1220 fps (old straight-cut design, projected 84% OSS)

Triton makes a 125 gr Quik-Shok medium velocity (projected 88% OSS)

 

[Brian Williams]

As a Newbie to 357 and 38 just a warning that after you shoot the 38's there will be a ring of crud built up in the chamber that could cause problems with 357 rounds. The problem is when you put the 357's in the chamber they will go in hard and "pinch" the cartridge. This extra pinch while not very much acts like a bit more crimp and can cause pressure to build up greater than normal. To those who like to practice with 38's and carry 357's you should use something to clean this ring of crud away. Some use a 40 cal bronze brush and a small drill at low speed, some use a fired 357 case that has been resized and lightly belled to scrape away the ring, but whatever you use makes sure it is gone.

I like the PMC 357 158gr SJSP for factory plinkers and the PMC HP's for hunting, I really prefer to roll my own.

I reload store bought 158grLSWC for plinkin with 6.5 gr of 231 and Hornady 158 xtp SP for hunting with 14.3 gr of 2400. I also mold my own 165gr LSWCGC for use in my 586 and Marlin1894c, which I load with 14 gr of 2400.

Learn to reload, you will spend more money at first but you will shoot more later.

 

[cheygriz]

I guess it depends on the gun, but I've fired tens of thousands of rounds of .38 ammo in various .357 revolvers and I've never experienced the "ring of crud" in any of my guns. I fired as many as 500 rounds of .38 lead SWC in my Ruger without cleaning, and then fired .357 full power loads. The .357 rounds dropped right in to the chambers in the cylinder, and after firing, dropped right out. After firing the gun with either round, I clean normally.

Back OT, For factory practice ammo, I think Remington UMC and Winchester White box .38 158 gr lead SWC is the best value available.

 

[cratz2]

My buddy has an older S&W 27 that has pretty tight cylinder holes and if you put a couple rounds of 38 special reloads through it, 357s take a bit of effort to get fully seated. I've owned a BlackHawk, a 686, a 686+, a Rossi 971, Taurus something and a 3" GP101 and none of them had problems seating 357s after numerous 38s fired.

But it is something to keep in mind.

 

[Jonesy9]

I've had the .38 ring problem in my GP100, it's tough to clean and now only shoot .357.

Great idea on the fired .357 brass to scrape it out!

 

[Baron Holbach4]

For .38 special plinking, I prefer the 158 grain FMJ loads from S&B and CCI Blazer.

 

[45R]

Miwall ammo is great: low cost and very accurate. The only problem that I had with the SWC is that it really leaded up my barrel. The fastest way to clean it out was a cylinder or two of .38+P Federals.

I've had great luck with SB and Magtech for both calibers.

 

[ajacobs]

I second the learn to reload. This is especially easy with the .38/357, they you can load .38 special powered loads in a .357 case and avoid the pain in the but ring. I don't know of anyone who factory loads something like that.

I would focus on choosing a good defensive load that groups well in the gun and then look for a practice load that has a similar point of impact. After all you should primarily be concerned with the buisness load and what good is a practice round if it isn't similar to you "real" round.

125 gr .357 has a long and respected record. I like the various bonded rounds including the golden saber.

 

[Paul "Fitz" Jones]

Plan on reloading

Buy Federal or Winchester medium velocity 38 ammo to have good quality brass to save for when you start reloading to be able to shoot for the least cost the rest of your life. The higher the velocity with the lighter weight bullets stresses brass and reduces its life. High velocity rounds can be recognized as brass from the cannelure being close to the mouth of the casing and these cases are the first to split to the cannelure.

Plan to reload in the future and pistol brass cases last longer than nickel plated ones.

Buy target velocity ammo to develop your gun handling skills and accuracy before going with the hot stuff.

John Paul