which gun for bulls-eye?

[travelghost]

Can anyone recommend a handgun that doesn't cost an arm and a leg for a bulls-eye target shooter? I shoot mostly for fun and don't have high expectations but I do participate in monthly club competitions. I use a Buckmark Challenge for rim-fire and an old Smith 14 for centerfire.
the trigger pull on the Smith is a hair over 3 lbs and the Browning about the same. I 'd like to loosen that up a bit. The Buckkmark is too light so I am considering Ruger Mark III but whicih model? And the trigger pull on the Rugers is between 3-4 pounds, a bit much. I am not about to spend much more than 500 dollars, I value my marriage too much for that.
If anyone had the patience to read all this, then thanks

 

[perazzi]

I would suggest a ruger mk III and have a volquartsen sear only installed. This will get you down to the under 3# weight. Cost of sear about $15. Other simple items available to make it a more pure comp gun for little expense.

 

[X-Mark]

For the .22... a Ruger 5" bull barrel with a trigger job will work great. Must have 2+ lb trigger.
For centerfire the trigger must be 3-1/2 lb+(3 lb for a revolver)...Tough to find a cheap centerfire that will hold 3" at 50 yd....
Look for used, or just shoot what you have and learn the fundamentals, and have fun...Keep the sport of Bullseye alive!
This web site will give you lots of info:
http://www.bullseyepistol.com/

Good Shooting!

 

[zxcvbob]

I have a Ruger .22/45 Mk II with a 6 7/8" heavy barrel. The local gunsmith did a trigger job (didn't require any parts except I think he added a set screw) on it to lighten the trigger to about 2# and that did wonders for my score. Best $40 I've ever spent.

Be forewarned that if you get a Ruger .22/45 and you don't like the grips, you are stuck with them. They are molded into the frame. Not so on the regular Mk II and Mk III's; you can change the grip panels on them.

 

[perazzi]

....

 

[mbopp]

I prefer a Ruger MK1 or MK2, I have a MK1 I'm working on. You can get a VQ sear, hammer, trigger, and safety drop-in upgrade for $80 or less. The Clark bushing is $20 but needs to be fitted. Or start with a VQ sear for $20.
You may want to look at a used original Hi Standard (not the Mitchell knock-off.) They need a little more TLC than a Ruger but I really like mine.

rimfirecentral.com has forums for the Ruger MK's, also the Hi Standards. You can make the Ruger trigger adjustable if you're handy.

 

[Justin]

Find a used Ruger Mk. II or Mk. III, drop the money on some Volquartsen guts, and order a set of target grips from Nil, Rink, Fung, or Vitarbo.

For what it's worth, in the long run, you probably won't save a whole lot of money by going the Ruger Mk. II/III route. You'll eventually spend enough on it that you could have probably purchased a Walther, Morini, Hammerli, etc. However, if if you can't swing the large up-front cost of a Eurogun, there's nothing wrong with buying a Ruger or S&W M41 and modifying it as funds allow. Plenty of people have made Master with Rugers and Smiths.

 

[SSgtG]

Anything shootable

I am sure to step on toes already but I will throw a dissenting word in about the nominees thus far. I have yet to see any serious competitor shooting a Ruger. Not that they aren't a capable gun there are just so many better options. Yes even for the money. I started my wife with a Target Ruger but that only lasted a year and she moved on to a Trailside. I've shot a match with her gun and did respectable but it just isn't in the same class as other stock guns. The trigger was ok but not really very consistent or good. Any used High Standard is better as is the Trailside. I can't speak from any experience about a Buckmark but at least it has the right grip slant. Almost any gun you buy you will put some parts into to make it better. If your are serious about Bullseye shooting that means plenty of .45 work and the grip adjustment is easier and more consistent with a military grip slant. Me, I shoot a Marvel conversion on a Essex framed custom smithed lower. Sweet 2 1/2 lb trigger and feels just like my wadcutter. Both have Herrett National grips. As far as the money goes, try to get your wife involved, it really opens up the family wallet if she is interested too. (My wife still has the target mounted where she outshot me in a timed fire.) As always IMO & YMMV.

 

[zxcvbob]

If your are serious about Bullseye shooting that means plenty of .45 work and the grip adjustment is easier and more consistent with a military grip slant.

The Ruger .22/45 has that. But make sure you like the grips (and especially the width) because they are almost impossible to change.

A good gunsmith can make a target trigger out of a Ruger using the original stock parts.

Or you can buy a High Standard and not have to mess with it

 

[Smokey Joe]

Bullseye gun...

Travelghost--If you luck into a used S&W Model 41 for your $500 limit, then you're set. No mods necessary. Now, if you get real good, say, state-level competition, you'll want a better (read, more expensive) bullseye pistol, but the 41 will be plenty to get you up into the top reaches of your local club league.

(That is, of course, if you [1] have the eye-hand ability in the first place, and, [2] do the necessary practice, practice, practice. No bullseye pistol will make you a contender all by itself. None.)

I graduated from a Ruger Mk II, with VQ trigger work, to the Smith, and there is no comparison IMHO. The Ruger is a Chevrolet. The Smith is a BMW.

But you may have to look long and hard, or convince yr Better Half that you need to spend a few more bux than 500, to get the Smith.

 

[cavman]

I started with a Mark III Hunter, 6 and 7/8ths inches, SS, and with those very nice rose grips. I didn't buy it for Bullseye as I hadn't started yet, but did shoot Bullseye immediately afterwards. It was stolen, unfortunately.

As I had now gotten into Bulleye, and had to buy another pistol, and I had the money (USAA covered it), I bought my replacement as a Smith and Wesson Model 41. (Its back-up is also a Model 41.)

However, I feel confident that that Ruger pistol could have taken me to Master class just fine. I didn't even feel I needed the Volquartsen ,the trigger was just fine as it was.

 

[Magoo]

Not to try to talk you out of a new gun, but there's an easy way to lighten the trigger pull on a Buckmark. Search for "Heggis flip" over on rimfire central. It doesn't require any new parts and is pretty quick and easy to do (and reversable if you don't like it). I also added an overtravel screw trigger to mine- about $10 from Browning.

 

[lil ski]

I don't want to confuse you. Every one here has good ideas. It all boils down to what you can spend so with a $500 limit the Ruger is your best bet. I would look for a Mark 2 they have the most aftermarket parts to upgrade it. I found a beat up MArk2 at a gun show and picked it up for $175 and sent it to Clark Custom and they put a triger and barrel on it. They will give you a gun that shoots 1/2" groups at 50 yards. Mine came in at well under $500 that was a few years ago.I shot that for 5 or 6 years and had a high 270s average. I have since moved to a mod 41 Smith. The bottem line is shoot what you can and have fun keep the sport alive.

 

[mp510]

The Ruger .22/45 has that. But make sure you like the grips (and especially the width) because they are almost impossible to change.

Gripping a 22/45 feels like gripping a stripped 1911 frame. If you want to replicate a 1911 grip, it would be more advisable to go with a military grip High Standard (or clone).

 

[kle]

Find a S&W Model 17 to go with your Model 14. And then find a Model 25 to go with your set, and you'll be covered for .22, CF, and .45 (and if your Model 14 is relatively stock, you're covered for the Distinguished Revolver and Harry Reeves matches, too).

But then I'm an oddball who likes to shoot revolvers in Bullseye just because almost no one else is shooting wheelguns these days.