deolexrex
Member
... for mounting Tech-SIGHTS to a 10/22?
Which Loctite...
- Thread starter deolexrex
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I don't know what tech-sights are, but you should only use loctite blue to hold the screws down whenever mounting anything to a gun.
Loctite blue comes off when holding a bit of heat to the part (soldering iron, mini torch) so that you an always remove the part later if you want to.
I had found out the hard way regarding loctite red on a AR15 carry handle...
Loctite blue comes off when holding a bit of heat to the part (soldering iron, mini torch) so that you an always remove the part later if you want to.
I had found out the hard way regarding loctite red on a AR15 carry handle...
Funderb
Member
ooh. red loctite can reall ruin a day..
just remember, the tubes containing blue loctite are red with blue letters. Make sure you READ the package before using or buying.
But yeah, blue.
But MOT- on a 10-22? You really should not need loctite.
just remember, the tubes containing blue loctite are red with blue letters. Make sure you READ the package before using or buying.
But yeah, blue.
But MOT- on a 10-22? You really should not need loctite.
deolexrex
Member
The mounting screws work loose when using the rifle.
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
Loctite #248 Blue is the one that allows screws to be removed without heating or breaking them off.
Used for just about any gun related use.
#271 Red is not. Once applied & cured, the screw is there to stay.
Not for gun use!
I use Permatex Medium Strength Threadlocker from the NAPA auto parts store.
Same thing as #248 Blue Loctite and much easier to find it seems.
rcmodel
Used for just about any gun related use.
#271 Red is not. Once applied & cured, the screw is there to stay.
Not for gun use!
I use Permatex Medium Strength Threadlocker from the NAPA auto parts store.
Same thing as #248 Blue Loctite and much easier to find it seems.
rcmodel
wally
Member
All Loctite formulas come loose at 400-500 degress F. This is cooler than plumbers solder melts.
Don't use anything other than Blue on parts that can't take the heat.
--wally.
Don't use anything other than Blue on parts that can't take the heat.
--wally.
The Tourist
member
I use and recommend only Blue.
Heck, parts vibrating on a Harley won't shake loose with Blue. And let's face it, things have to come apart sooner or later for maintenance.
Just use a little bit on a clean part, torque to specs, let dry.
If you can, periodically replace worn or old fasteners with new. I realize the OP might not need the parts, but in other cases new lockwashers and fibernuts are a good investment.
Heck, parts vibrating on a Harley won't shake loose with Blue. And let's face it, things have to come apart sooner or later for maintenance.
Just use a little bit on a clean part, torque to specs, let dry.
If you can, periodically replace worn or old fasteners with new. I realize the OP might not need the parts, but in other cases new lockwashers and fibernuts are a good investment.
deolexrex
Member
Why is that?
Funderb
Member
you should be able to just tighten them down really tight, and they won't go anywhere. Just make sure the torque is the same on all four screws, and tighten simultaneously. (if it's the mount) If they are at different tensions sometimes they can work themselves loose. also make sure they do not protrude into the receiver.
If it still doesn't work, I guess loctite is fine.
If it still doesn't work, I guess loctite is fine.
There's not enough recoil to knock the screws loose. You shouldn't need locktite unless you have a magnum rifle. If you really want some extra hold just use some of your wife or girlfriends nail polish. It holds as well as blue locktite but breaks loose easier if there is a need.
deolexrex
Member
Funderb
Member
The best thing to do short of blue loctite is to evenly tighten the two rear screws, and make sure that they don't protrude into the action. It's easy to have a screw that is too long and punch through the top of the receiver. If they are too long, just file the ends down until they are flush. You will need more than a jeweler's screwdriver to tighten them properly.
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
Don't overdo the torque on the 10/22 receiver.
It is aluminum, and relatively thin where the screws go.
You can pull the threads out of it if you get too strong on the screwdriver!
I prefer blue Loctite, and tighten the screws, but not near as tight as I would crank them if it was a steel receiver, with steel threads.
rcmodel
It is aluminum, and relatively thin where the screws go.
You can pull the threads out of it if you get too strong on the screwdriver!
I prefer blue Loctite, and tighten the screws, but not near as tight as I would crank them if it was a steel receiver, with steel threads.
rcmodel
Funderb
Member
what rcmodel said, be careful!
deolexrex
Member
This is exactly what I was trying to avoid.
mrmeval
Member
Loctite 242 is good. If there is no ferrous parts you may want to test and make sure the threadlocker has cured. Non-ferrous metals sometimes need the corresponding primer which is usually not sold in stores.
MMA1991
Member
How about a small dab of model airplane glue on the threads?
Cheaper than Loc-Tite, will hold the screw in place and the seal can be easily broken with a moderate turn of the wrist with the screw driver.
Thoughts?
Cheaper than Loc-Tite, will hold the screw in place and the seal can be easily broken with a moderate turn of the wrist with the screw driver.
Thoughts?
Dudedog
Contributing Member
Purple (light) has worked well for most scope screws on my rifles.
Have a Sig P226 with "Combat adjustable night sights) The tiny allen screws kept coming loose and Sig said to use RED
:banghead: Of course if you use RED on anything don't plan on getting it apart without heat. (used blue and crossed fingers on it)
Strength wise -- purple, blue, red.
Have a Sig P226 with "Combat adjustable night sights) The tiny allen screws kept coming loose and Sig said to use RED
:banghead: Of course if you use RED on anything don't plan on getting it apart without heat. (used blue and crossed fingers on it)Strength wise -- purple, blue, red.
highlander 5
Member
I've used blue Loctite to secure screws but in a pinch I've used clear nail polish that worked equal success.
RetiredUSNChief
Member
There is a bit of confusion about thread locking compounds like Loctite.
First of all, there are LOTS of versions of Loctite threadlockers, more than most who don't use it more than casually seem to know. They make them for a large variety of industrial and consumer uses, too...for different materials and environments.
I'll break it down in simpler terms, though:
There are four different color codes you really need to know about:
Red - high strength, permanent thread locker.
Blue - medium strength, removable threadlocker.
Purple - low strength, small thread threadlocker.
Green - wicking grade threadlocker (for pre-assembled components). Don't bother with the green ones.
Also, there are primer and non-primer versions. You'll want non-primer, simply for ease and convenience.
The ultimate purpose of a threadlocker is to keep threaded components from loosening. However, in the gun world we typically like to retain the option of future easy disassembly for such mundane purposes as cleaning and changing components, for example. This means a red Loctite threadlocker is not very desirable because of its high bonding strength and removal requirements.
So don't use red threadlockers on your guns. Save that for something else in your garage.
This leaves you with two other choices (excluding the green): blue and purple.
Both are excellent choices for most threaded uses on guns. However, I'd further recommend the purple over blue for the really tiny things, like small set screws. You're definately not likely to round out any tiny allen screws using this.
I use purple exclusively on anything gun related. The whole point, as I said earlier, is simply to keep threaded components from working loose, and purple has proven to be quite adequate from my personal experience. With the tolerances in threaded components, you should rarely ever need more than purple for most applications. And when you do, there's blue.
First of all, there are LOTS of versions of Loctite threadlockers, more than most who don't use it more than casually seem to know. They make them for a large variety of industrial and consumer uses, too...for different materials and environments.
I'll break it down in simpler terms, though:
There are four different color codes you really need to know about:
Red - high strength, permanent thread locker.
Blue - medium strength, removable threadlocker.
Purple - low strength, small thread threadlocker.
Green - wicking grade threadlocker (for pre-assembled components). Don't bother with the green ones.
Also, there are primer and non-primer versions. You'll want non-primer, simply for ease and convenience.
The ultimate purpose of a threadlocker is to keep threaded components from loosening. However, in the gun world we typically like to retain the option of future easy disassembly for such mundane purposes as cleaning and changing components, for example. This means a red Loctite threadlocker is not very desirable because of its high bonding strength and removal requirements.
So don't use red threadlockers on your guns. Save that for something else in your garage.
This leaves you with two other choices (excluding the green): blue and purple.
Both are excellent choices for most threaded uses on guns. However, I'd further recommend the purple over blue for the really tiny things, like small set screws. You're definately not likely to round out any tiny allen screws using this.
I use purple exclusively on anything gun related. The whole point, as I said earlier, is simply to keep threaded components from working loose, and purple has proven to be quite adequate from my personal experience. With the tolerances in threaded components, you should rarely ever need more than purple for most applications. And when you do, there's blue.
RetiredUSNChief
Member
Thanks, Chip!
Loctite threadlockers are awesome, but definately not one of those things people should assume one type is good for everything under the sun. Heck, I had a leftover bottle of something left over from some contractor work at my desk that I thought I'd hang onto "just in case". I can't get the cap off it now, and that's even using pliers. The stuff on the cap had hardened enough you can literally file/sand it like JB Weld. Turned out it was a Loctite adhesive (black stuff) and not a threadlocker.
NOT something you would want on a firearm.
I think a simple rule of thumb is red for BOLTS and blue/purple for finer machine screws. And purple if in doubt on the fine screws. Less really is more, for the purpose of this forum!
Loctite threadlockers are awesome, but definately not one of those things people should assume one type is good for everything under the sun. Heck, I had a leftover bottle of something left over from some contractor work at my desk that I thought I'd hang onto "just in case". I can't get the cap off it now, and that's even using pliers. The stuff on the cap had hardened enough you can literally file/sand it like JB Weld. Turned out it was a Loctite adhesive (black stuff) and not a threadlocker.
NOT something you would want on a firearm.
I think a simple rule of thumb is red for BOLTS and blue/purple for finer machine screws. And purple if in doubt on the fine screws. Less really is more, for the purpose of this forum!
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