Which roll pin for 3/32 punch pin used ?

[dekibg]

Hello, used 3/32 pin punch to remove a roll pin per instruction video ( for SAR 9 striker pin held in place) . It became so badly deformed that there was no way I could put it back
Now I need to order a new one- do I reorder the same as pin punch used or slightly larger ?
Also,is there a trick in putting them in place without deforming them ( I used plastic hammer) ?
Can I use a simple steel pin of the same diameter instead of roll pin - like the one I had to take out when replacing ejector on my 1911- that seemed much easier ?
Just to mention that this roll pin is the only thing that holds extractor in place so I am not sure if changing it with solid steel pin is OK due to the wiggle of extractor when it does it job
Thank you everyone

 

[BigBlue 94]

Roll pins provide spring tension, so you need one just slightly larger.

I use brass punches with a nub on the end made for roll pins.

They make roll pin starter punches too. They have a blind hole in the end to hold the pin.

 

[a5werkes]

One can never have enough gunsmith punches. I have a zillion in all sorts of variants imperial and metric sizes. Roll pins usually have one end chamfered ; that is the starter end that is inserted into the aperture. Even chamfered ones can benefit with a light touch of further chamfering to make the entry into aperture smooth. A proper sized roll pin "starter' punch captures the roll pin securing to prevent splaying the end that greets the hammer. I usually use the roll pin starter to within a very small distance of final fitment, i.e. don't scratch the gun art with the roll pin starter. It is smart to tape off the firearm about the roll pin hole in the event of hammer / punch slippage. The smaller & shorter the pin the more utility the roll pin starters have to make the task easy.

Final seating of the roll pin is accomplished with a proper sized roll pin punch that has a small nipple sized to fit / center into the open channel of the roll pin; don't use a flat parallel pin punch to drive a roll pin, it will splay the end and prevent final proper seating and appearance.

The pin either solid or roll pin style for extractor function, typically acts as a close tolerance "axle" about which the extractor pivots with function. There may be other exceptions but the Smith & Wesson M&P 2.0 variants is the only platform I know of that has an oblong aperture that the extractor roll pin can move forward-rearward slightly to accommodate slight variations in cartridge rim dimensions to improve reliability of extraction. I don't know of any such 1911 extractor designed as such.

Also, a general rule of thumb is to strike an object with a hammer of similar material, e.g. steel pin with steel hammer, aluminum pin with aluminum hammer, brass pin with brass hammer. A small amount of lubrication to the pin will be useful for both extraction and installation of pins and avoid using roofing size hammers for small firearms....something is wrong with the setup if one feels the need to employ such draconian measures.

One of the most critical aspects of pin removal / installation is to insure the slide or whatever is securely placed in a protected vise to allow all the force of the punch / hammer energy to be transferred to the pin and not movement of the entire works. To do so will cause pins to be deformed or failure to remove pins as the energy is being dissipated amongst the entirety of the firearm.

 

[wiscoaster]

To add to the above, when you buy your punches, make sure the punch shaft is long enough to go all the way through.

 

[dekibg]

Hello , thanks for really good replies so far .
Just to repeat what I said about 1911 , since I mentioned it, it is a solid pin for ejector, not extractor

 

[dekibg]

If a roll pin spec says it is 3/32, for example, is that compressed or not ?

 

[Jim Watson]

Compressed.
A 3/32" spring pin is specified at .099 to .103" for a .094 to .097" hole. Chamfer diameter is .091" maximum.
https://www.engineersedge.com/roll_pin.htm

 

[herrwalther]

Just to repeat what I said about 1911 , since I mentioned it, it is a solid pin for ejector, not extractor

I have seen 1911 kits that could have either kind of ejector pin, solid or roll pin. The first time you ruin an ejector roll pin and have to drill it out of the frame, you will be sold on solid pins. That is what happened to me on one. A set of real roll pin punches will save plenty of hassle.

The typical sources don't stock many parts for lesser known brands like Sarsilmaz. They have been operating under their own importer, SAR USA for 2 years now. You might be able to contact them to get a direct replacement pin.
https://www.2ndamendmentwholesale.com/

 

[Rex in OTZ]

And roll pin drive punches.
https://ads.midwayusa.com/product/1...tMjE-cV292QY1kdML2l8AWwQ1i4I2PYxoC_lsQAvD_BwE