Which Savage .223, 12FV or 10FP?

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Hadoken

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I'm going to be purchasing a Savage rifle in .223 (price, accutrigger, and local availability have set my mind on the Savage) and I'm trying to find out if either one has any inherent benefits over the other.

I guess I should state that I will be using it for 100-300 yard shots at the range, no hunting or competition, just an accurate fun gun.

The Model 12FV has a 26" barrel and because of where it is available locally I can get one for $500 with a Simmons 4-12x scope ($450 if I catch it on sale again).

The Model 10FP is marketed as a Law Enforcement rifle with a 24" barrel but it is available online for around $530 after shipping. The only difference I can tell is a extra sling stud for a bipod and a 2" shorter barrel.

So are these the same rifle except for those two differences? I don't think the sling stud is worth the extra money since I won't need a bipod and sling on a range rifle.

I think I'm leaning towards the $500 package deal with the scope, and I know you don't get alot of scope with the package, but as long as it isn't floating all over the place I'm not doing any critical work.

What do you folks think?
TIA!
 
I would go with the fp and would not buy the 12fv just because it hase a scope on it especially considering that scope is a piece.
 
So first of all, the LE line has a few differences. The bolt is blacked out with a matte finish (unique to the LE line). The matte finish on the LE rifle coats the barrel and action, it's thicker than blueing and far more chemical resistant. The 10FP-LE2 has the same 26" barrel as the 12FV you're looking at. The LE line accu triggers are adjustable down to 1.5lbs whereas the standard accu triggers are 2.5 lbs minimum. So the reason for the higher price is the black finish on all parts, the lighter minimum weight trigger, and the additional sling swivels. I'm assuming that the 10FP you're looking at has the plainest savage brand stock. The next incremental step up in the line sports a Choate varmint master stock. I bought one aftermarket to replace my original Savage stock. The Choate is FAR heavier, much more stable, and sports side mounted sling swivels which makes the heavy and long barrel hang comfortably when carried afield.

Given that you aren't showing any interest in long range shooting, the additional barrel length won't likely help you any. Plus I'd bet the shorter barrel length would balance far better when carried with a sling. Rather than buy a package deal, I'd rather buy just the rifle and put the scope of my choice on it. Especially if you're looking for something a little specialized (tactical, target, etc.).

I own a 10FP-LE2 in .308 Winchester that's been an amazing shooter but it won't eject reliably. I've replaced the ejector, ejector spring, and still it's dicey! I've only encountered one other THR'r with a similar problem so the two of us must be unlucky, everyone else's must work fine. FYI mine has best ever grouped 5 shots into .19" center to center at 110 yds! It regularly groups 1/2 MOA with match factory ammo and often better with handloads. Should you start handloading, I'd recommend experimenting with bullet seating depths because my groups shrunk 30% when I stumbled into the sweet spot (.005" away from the rifling).
 
Also to concider is what stock you want. The standard plastic stock is flimsy crap, and the scope isn't much better. Their wood thumbhole and varmint stocks are really nice in the 12 and the choate and mcmillan in the FP. The link to the 12 you are looking at is not the one with the scope, those are the pakage guns with the light taper barrels. Savage makes about the best rifles around for the money, but the better varmint and police models are the best deals they offer IMO. In the long run you are better off getting one of the better models for a little more to start than to spend more later to set it up how you would like it, I think if you do it will turn into more than just a "fun gun" shooting 1 1/2" groups at 300yds gets to be addictive, My 10fp choate actually got me into handloading to eek out sub 1/2 MOA groups.
 
Rockstar, I have the same problem with mine, Identical model. It will pull the case almost all the way out of the chamber and then it falls off of the extractor. I found a burr on the extractor that wasn't allowing it to seat on the rim fully, that tiny extractor is my only gripe about the savages, filed the burr, oiled the extractor now works better, ejects fine when cycled fast, but about 1 FTE every 20 rounds if you pull the action back slowly to eject the brass into your hand.
 
alucard0822 Thanks for the tip! I've actually already tried that. While it did help somewhat, I've found the replacement springs helped more. Still the ejector won't kick out a loaded shell 90% of the time. I'm looking forward to my next range trip to see if it'll behave better ejecting the empties. At this point I'm investigating how much it'd cost to have a gunsmith slit the bolt head and install a fixed ejector like the Mauser design. At least then I can be assured that the friggin brass will get jettisoned!

I wish I could say that's the only problem I've had with my 10FP. The accu-trigger decocks (when set to the minimum) after working the bolt quickly. I've got mine set to 2lbs 11oz now and that seems to have fixed the problem.

I've just finished reading a Shooting Times article on the newly introduced Savage 12F/TR which is supposed to be purposely built for "F class" NRA high power matches. Apparently the ejection port is cut only to eject empty brass (it's a single shot) in order to make it stiffer. The barrel is even heavier than the standard Savage bull contour plus the thing is 30" long! The most amazing part of all is that the accu-trigger installed on it is adjustable from 6 oz to 2.5 lbs! As part of the Shooting Times evaluation, they shot it for accuracy at 100 and 500 yards. The best group at 500yds was 0.88 inches! Apparently they repeated the performance just to be sure it wasn't a fluke!
 
id buy the 12 for a couple of reasons, especially if this is going to be a bench o matic, it will shoot consistently better, with the nice heavy stainless bbl. but not by much. also , you can get a nice stock that will fit in a break up or coyote brown or such, and have a field gun as well. finally, take off the scope, and go and sell it at the next gunshow for 40 bucks.
 
Savage bolt gun vs. Savage bolt gun? Either way you'll be happy and I'v never found one that didn't shoot well. You'll get your money's worth. Essex
 
Alucard thats the weird thing, I can't find the 12FV package deal anywhere online, but Dicks Sportinggoods sells them and appears to be about the only place that does.

I believe its designation is the 12FVXP, but it comes with the scope, mounts, and a sling. I do agree that the scope will probably be no good, but I do have several other rifles that it would be fine for as long as it isn't just totally broken to begin with.

I keep teeter tottering between a $500 pistol AND a $500 rifle, or one $800+ pistol or one $800+ rifle. I think how I feel now is get a good entry on both, and then spend more money on them later.

As high as ammo is now I might be better off buying a $275 stevens and saving the other $600 for ammo!
 
I know sometimes savage has "custom" rifles in the stores, but not in their catalog. Bass Pro had about 5 stainless bull barell 12series varmint rifles with the boyds laminated thumbhole stock, stainless farell scope base and rings (no scope) in 204ruger, 223 and 22-250, they were 06 models on sale for $600 ea, I waited 2 days for payday went back and they were sold out. I tried to order them, but they were made just for bass pro in one run, needless to say I was almost sick over it and my 10fp remains lonely.:(
 
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