Which set of 223 dies ?

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Depends on what you are reloading for? AR or Bolt Action.

I don't make recommendations, I own two sets of Lee 223 dies the Pacesetter and the Deluxe, I also purchased the RCBS X-Small Base Full Length resizing die for my AR 223's. (a must)

If I was just starting I would purchase the Lee Deluxe set since it also has the collet die that I would use for my 223 bolt action rifle, if I would want to neck size only at a future date.

Just my take on your question.
Jim
 
I personally use Lee, but all my dies are Lee. Any brand should be fine, but you have to lubricate the cases! Never try to resize a .223 without lubing it first! Those little bastages will get stuck like you won't believe, and it'll ruin your day. I've even had lubed ones get stuck.
 
I use Lee dies because I'm cheap and they make good ammo. Nothing wrong with RCBS dies either. I bought several sets of RCBS rifle dies used and they also make good ammo.

If you are making ammo for a semi-auto only the collet neck sizing die will be useless. I also load for a bolt action .223 rifle and use the neck only sizing die.
 
20 years ago, I was an RCBS guy. Then I discovered Lee and have loaded just as good ammo with extra money left in my pocket.
 
I have a bunch of different brands. Lee is good and some of my favorites. I do have he RCBS AR series for 223. They work great, and I think they ran about 40 bucks. I have to say you wont go wrong either way though. I only picked the RCBS up because they where in stock.
 
Never saw a difference in sizing dies but highly recommend Forester seating die.
I'll agree that the differences in sizers is not huge, though I had tons of problems with a Lyman .223 sizer sticking cases. Didn't matter what lube, how much or how it was applied. Cases got stuck. I had problems with the decapping stem on the Lee .223 die slipping when decapping PMC brass. I irrevocably stuck a .204 case in a Redding die. Haven't had a problem with RCBS size dies and I've had such good results with Forster dies that I look there first whenever I pick up a new caliber.

The Forster seater die is top notch, IME.
 
When loading for ARs, I use the RCBS X die, to mitigate trimming. I also like the Lee seating die that comes with their Collet Die set. Won't crimp (I don't crimp, anyhow!), but do like the ease and precision of adjusting o.a.l.
 
I prefer Redding dies with RCBS as an alternate when I cannot find a Redding set.

I have had some issues with Hornady dies of late so they have been marked off my list. I have a sizer die that does not size the case enough, I do not like that you cannot remove the mouth expander in the handgun dies, and I have a seater die that only engages three to four threads in the press. Hornady has generic die bodies for their seater dies and have different guts for each cartridge. The short body is too short and the intermediate body is too long. They need another intermediate length die body.

I do not buy Lee dies because I do not like the lock rings or the storage boxes. By the time I buy lock rings that I like and a storage box that I like I have come near the cost of an RCBS set. Ordering extra stuff to "complete" the die set for me is a pain. It is one of my idiosyncrasies. The Lee dies themselves are fine.

I have not used any other brands so I cannot comment on them.
 
They all make dies that will produce quality ammo. I have Forster, Redding, RCBS, Lee (only no rifle dies though) and Hornady. All work.

I'd go for the Lee, just because of the neck sizer. Moot point if you're loading for an AR though.

That said, some are maybe a bit nicer than others. Redding makes very nice dies, as does Forster.

ETA: Yep, Lee lock rings suck. I don't care much for RCBS either, but I prefer them to the Lee. I like to replace both Lee and RCBS.
 
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I tested the case neck run out of my Lee .223 die and all cases were within 0.003" and most 0.001". I liked the virtually unbreakable decapping pin even if .223 crimped primers are not as hard to remove as 30 caliber.

But, I am using a Lyman small base as that brand of dies sizes the cases down more than any other brand. Too bad Lyman stopped making small base dies. When my Lyman die is finally worn out I will buy a RCBS small base in large part due to the strong decapping spindle.

I am a firm believer in small base dies for gas guns. Tight cases will cause failure to go in battery and/or failure to eject. These forums are full of examples of these problems due to inadequate case sizing. Set up your dies with a case gage like this Wilson:

ReducedWilsongagemeasuringnew308bra.jpg

You will never get the case shoulder between the “Go” and “No Go” by following the typical “size to the shell holder and add a quarter turn” instructions found with sizing dies. You must use a case gage to verify properly sized length.

Wilsongagebetweengoandnogage308bras.jpg

With all small base dies you must use a good case lube, spray on lubes are guaranteed to stick a case in the die. I use RCBS water soluble and can recommend it and Imperial sizing wax.
 
I probably have 200 different dies. Less than 10 of those are .223 dies.
After years of measuring the effect of me using dies on the concentricity, I have evolved my own system.
These days when I get into a new rifle cartridge, I buy 3 dies:

1) Lee collet neck die. I then polish the:
a) collet
b) collar
c) mandrel/ decapping pin

2) Forster seating die.
I then polish the seating stem cup so it will not dig into the bullet ogive.
Every bullet is shaped differently, and I do not want a circular edge touching the bullet. I want more area for less local deforming pressure per unit area.
Some guys are glass bedding the bullet they will use to the cup.

3) I order a Forster FL sizer die body [no decapping stem with sizer ball] and have Forster hone out the neck on one of their Hardinge collet lathes for $10 extra.
For .223 I would have them hone out the neck to .245"


That is the best system I have found for me. But I could use a run of the mill RCBS die set, take out the expander ball, seat the bullets long, and shoot 1/2" 5 shot groups @100y with my Ruger #1V .223 rifle as long as the wind does not blow.

What does it all mean?
It is far more important what you do with the dies, than which dies you are using.
 
3) I order a Forster FL sizer die body [no decapping stem with sizer ball] and have Forster hone out the neck on one of their Hardinge collet lathes for $10 extra.
For .223 I would have them hone out the neck to .245"
Another option is a Redding bushing style neck sizer with a body die, or a Redding FL sizer bushing style die. Forster makes great stuff though. Just showing another option.

It does not matter what die brand or combination you have, you must check results to be sure your cases and ammo is straight.
 
Thanks all for some great information. Some people complain about the Rcbs 223 seating die on the Midway reviews. Anyone have any experiences with it?
Another choice would be the Dillon dies.
 
the Rcbs 223 seating die on the Midway reviews. Anyone have any experiences with it?
Nothing much to go wrong with it. I polish the seater cups sometimes sharp outer edge in my seaters to stop the light ring some can put on a bullet.
 
"It is far more important what you do with the dies, than which dies you are using. "

Roger that. There's no particular magic or "precision engineering" to any of them, they are all cut to SAAMI tolerances and that's a range, not a specific point. Anyone thinking if he just gets his tools from the 'best' maker things will be perfect is going to be disappointed quite often! All makers turn out good dies but, on average, dies vary as much within a brand as between brands; including Lee and RCBS.

When I buy a new die set I know what I get will be 'luck of the draw' no matter the brand. So I buy, measure/gage the output and if they aren't up to my standards I'll swap or sell them and try again, often from the same brand, and measure again until I get what I seek. A concentricity gage properly used is the hand loader's friend, it's much more helpful than trying to buy the 'right brand' of dies!

Well, there is a small but fairly consistant advantage to Forster and Redding rifle seaters but few shooters or rifles will ever shoot well enough to see any difference. Thing is, Forster/Redding also have manufactoring tolerances and a good set of conventional dies USED CORRECTLY can equal the much more costly ones. And those of us who use Lee's collet neck sizers correctly prefer it to any costly bushing or special reamed neck dies.

Lee's unthreaded decapper stem is held in a tapered collet to keep it better centered AND to allow it to slip if there's a pebble inside or if the flash hole is off center; that way the pin won't get broken and it works. Hornady recognised those advantages and copied it after Lee's patent protection expired.
 
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You will never get the case shoulder between the “Go” and “No Go” by following the typical “size to the shell holder and add a quarter turn” instructions found with sizing dies. You must use a case gage to verify properly sized length.
"Never" is a mighty long time. I guess it has expired though since I've yet to have a rifle fail to go to battery on one of my .223 reloads (shooting them in 4 different .223 and 5.56 ARs) and I don't own a small base die. If your rifle needs one, fine, but most don't.
 
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