Why "Plink" Loads?

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345 DeSoto

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Forgive my ignorance, but why would anyone waste primers, bullets, and powder on "plinking" loads? When I load, I load for maximum accuracy. I shoot for maximum accuracy whether for practice or actual use, so that I have no problems with POA/POI...in either case. I just couldn't bring myself to load up a bunch of rounds, just to hear them go BOOM, or to watch dirt fly. Enlighten me on this...:confused:
 
Ok, I'll bite...

2 cases (no pun intended)...

Case 1:
Practice/Training loads:

General practice loads (9mm, 40 S&W, 38 SPL....) that provide good accuracy and function allowing for training and cycling of defensive firearms. Saves more expensive bullets (FMJ HP vs. cast lead or copper plated) for defensive loads. Note that I personally do not use hand loads for carry, use factory ammo at much higher cost (for limited practice and carry).

My 40S&W and 9mm ballistic properties are very close to the defensive loads (yes, reduced). Other specialty loadings (9mm Sub Sonic 147gr) are for special use (suppressed in this example) and provide less expensive functional loads for demonstration and training.

Some of the 38SPL loads are for training of others who have 38/357 for carry firearms. These loads allow them to see the accuracy and train without the punishment of full up defensive loads. This builds their confidence and gets them past many of the new-shooter issues.

Case 2:
High Accuracy Loads and known 2nds in performance:

The process for me in generating very high precision loads (308) involves culling of 'best, good and poor' cases from a new batch of factory brass. Sorting is done based on case concentricty/run out as a primary sort. The best ones then are processed in neck turning, primer pocket and flash hole preparation as well as trimming. These cases are then loaded with known good batch of primers, powder (from a large same lot) and moly coated SMK 168 FMJ BTHP. The net cost per round is well over $1.00 (even back 15 years ago). The residual cases in the good class are used for auto loading ammo with non-moly coated FMJ projectiles... The poor category brass is used for 'training' ammo with similar ballistic loading but known marginal performance (and is full length resized, etc).

It is worth the $1.00 per round to know that load and the corresponding rifle will provide a 1/3 or less MOA performance (if I can do my part). Spending that much on off-hand practice or in other training use is outside of my retirement pay grade.


Summary:

None of this ammo is plinking (i.e. is not used like 22LR shooting reactive targets/pop cans) and still costs about the same with the exception of the projectile, case culling and case attrition from training range brass loss.

Any hand load still requires diligence, care, consistency and inspection to maintain a safe/reliable load for training or match use...

I still remember the days of 45 ACP reload cost of 4 1/2 c per round (200g SWC lead) vs. now at ~15c/rnd....
 
I believe it's a matter of to each their own. Some load plinking or blasting ammunition and some don't. I try to load only quality ammunition made with high end components. Not to say I never loaded some 308 with bulk or even pulled bullets. Even a few Speer #1805 "plinkers" have passed through. :)

Ron
 
My 9mm plinking loads group 5 shots into 3 inches at 50 yards from a bone stock Gen 3 Glock 17 .

My .308 deer hunting/hog hunting/plinking load shoots 1/2 MOA from a Remington 700PSS with 3.5-10 Leupold Vari-X III.

You are right...if you are going to load ammunition, load for reliability first and accuracy a very close second. The cost difference between plinking ammo and plinking ammo that shoots accurately is not that much.

Just my .02,
LeonCarr
 
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I addition to the reasons already mentioned:

Sometimes you get opportunities to use odds and ends that don't conform to your normal loads.

Recent example:
A friend offered 150 bullets that I don't normally use, they're free. That's too few to build up that "most accurate load" but fine for loading light loads that work OK for shooting some steel and for letting less experienced friends and family shoot when I bring them to the range. I consider those "plinking loads"

It seems that with a little internet research, my plinking loads at least shoot better than factory loads, and are much less expensive.
 
As others posted, there are many but here are some of mine:


- Because I use mixed range brass with unknown reload history and condition of the brass. I keep separate bins for verified once-fired brass (ones I saw going from factory new boxes to the pistol) and use them for max jacketed loads or practice SD/HD loads (using Remington Golden Saber/Speer Gold Dot HP bullets) for comparable POA/POI practice.

Mixed range brass that's been reloaded several times with hot loads, overly bulged (can you say thinned/weakened case wall?), push-through resized and polished will look no different than many other brass you pick up from the range floor covered in carbon fouling. There's no way I can determine whether the max powder charge I use for the next reloading will be the "final straw" that fails the brass and ruptures the case wall.

I shoot a lot of 40S&W loads which are typically loaded to higher pressures and when using mixed range brass, I prefer to load with powders and charges that won't overly expand the case wall. Since slower burning than Unique/Universal powders tend to lose optimal accuracy and clean burn below high-to-near max load data, I use relatively faster burning W231/HP-38 to develop "plinking" loads at mid-to-high range load data that still produce accuracy.


- Because I want to focus more on shooting drill techniques and multiple targets instead of snappier/heavier recoil. For me, accuracy results from deliberate practice which includes trigger time, both live range fire and dry fire. With lighter recoiling practice/plinking loads, I can better focus on draw from holster/grip/front sight/trigger control/targets. Shooting full-power loads with carry subcompact pistols like G27 and PT145 will result in very snappy recoil.

With lighter loads like 40S&W 180 gr 4.0 gr W231/HP-38 and 45ACP 200 gr 4.0 gr Red Dot/Promo loads, even my wife can comfortably run her shooting drills without worrying about the "flinch" and her wrists will be comfortable after a day-long several hundred round shooting session.

I wondered about different POA/POI from full power vs practice/plinking loads and did some range tests and found Federal Hydra-Shok, Remington Golden Saber, Speer Gold Dots shot about an inch higher on target set at 7-10 yards. So I no longer worry about it. I think more trigger time with lighter load is better than no practice with full-power loads.


- Because I want to decrease the wear and tear on my pistols and extend the life of brass. I shoot a lot and many of my pistols have well over 7,000 - 30,000+ rounds through them. But when I compare my pistol parts to other pistol parts that shot heavier loads, I see a lot more wear and breakage on them than mine. I also believe less the brass gets worked, longer it will last, especially when shot from looser chambers of most factory barrels these days. It is for this reason why I prefer to use tighter chamber barrels like my Sig 1911 and KKM/Lone Wolf aftermarket barrels.


- Because I enjoy doing load development to identify accurate loads and to have more shooting options. While I prefer slower burn rate than Unique/Universal for full-power loads like WSF/AutoComp (and soon CFE Pistol), I found I typically obtain optimal accuracy only at high-to-near max load data with them. With Faster burn rate than W231/HP-38, I have identified accurate enough target loads at mid-to-high range and near max load data.

For me, I like having options and being able to load lighter than 9mm recoil 40S&W loads allows me to introduce shooters to 40S&W more comfortably. Both my wife and sister shoot 40S&W and I used lighter loads to introduce them and allowed them to practice. Now, they can handle heavier 40S&W loads well enough that my sister is thinking about shooting matches with her M&P40. Being able to share the same pistols like M&P45 (with small grip insert) and 1911s with lighter yet still accurate target loads (200 gr SWC with 4.0 gr Red Dot/Promo) with my wife not only increase the fun and joy for range trips but I found she is more inclined to favor more gun purchases if she gets to shoot them as well. (hint, hint) ;):D

- Because I want to reduce shooting/reloading costs and ride out the component shortages without using up more popular powders. I like shooting .308 but don't like the cost of shooting .308. After much consideration, I decided to add .300 BLK AR upper so I can have the additional option of shooting .308 projectiles from modified .223/5.56 cases. After even more consideration and research, I decided to load subsonic loads with cheaper powder coated 230 gr bullets. When Missouri Bullet Company offered Hi-Tek coated 245 gr .300 BLK bullets, I was even happier - http://www.missouribullet.com/details.php?prodId=204&category=6&secondary=&keywords=

I realize 5.0 gr W231/HP-38 vs 4.0 gr Red Dot/Promo difference in 1.0 gr powder cost is relatively insignificant for loading 45ACP 200 gr SWC in overall reloading cost but during two component shortages, Promo plinking loads in 9mm/40S&W/45ACP/45Colt has allowed me to extend the stock of more popular powders like W231/HP-38.
 
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Because informal, recreational target shooting with friends and family is cheaper with reloads than with factory ammo. I also use what I would consider "plinking" ammo for my regular handgun practice. Again, cheaper than using factory ammo.

For rifles, I load up a lot less plinking stuff, and that's mostly for 223/AR. I take a much more serious approach to accuracy when reloading for my hunting rifles.
 
I agree with posts so far. To add...

My "plinking" or "blasting" ammunition is loaded to the same care as anything else i load, it just cost a bit less than my premium ammunition. The bullet is the primary cost difference.

Certain 223 Remington and 300 BLK ammunition are probably the only rifle cartridges I load that i would call "plinking" ammunition. At the distances that i shoot this ammunition, the accuracy difference between it and my premium ammunition is negligible. Point of aim between the "plinking" ammunition and premium ammunition is nominally the same, at least at short distances.

When I shoot other rifles, I am doing serious practice or development. No desire to blast away with these rifles.

For handgun, I do not load any premium designer bullets any more. FMJ or cast do me just fine. Good economical loads that perform well. No need for any called "plinking" ammunition.
 
Plinking usually refers to shooting informal targets like tin cans, hubcaps, bottles, etc., as opposed to formal target shooting at a set range at a set target. Not anything at all to do with quality or accuracy of the ammo, unless the meaning has been corrupted by the uninformed.
 
Plinking ammo is simply ammo loaded with cheaper components largely in bulk quantities in cases that I won't cry about if I lose some.

The process is largely the same. But it doesn't take a $3 ea bullet to hit my 11" gong offhand rapid fire
 
BigG said:
Plinking usually refers to shooting informal targets like tin cans, hubcaps, bottles, etc., ... Not anything at all to do with quality or accuracy of the ammo
Who says you need to give up accuracy for plinking loads? How about 2" shot group at 25 yards?

These were shot from railed Sig 1911 TacPac using Missouri 12 BHN 200 gr SWC (Bullseye #1) and 4.0 gr Promo - http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?p=9415802#post9415802

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Sometimes it's not all about accuracy of individual shots. There's not always a need for expensive, highly tuned ammunition.
 

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To me, spending top $$ on high-end bullets is a waste of money if I'm going to shoot them out of a 3 moa gun.

My plinking loads shoot a 1.5 - 2" group from my scoped bolt gun @ 100, where SMKs will get me sub-MOA. This is not a good place to use plinking bullets. OK for a fouling shot though.

In my carbine AR, standing up, I am happy to get a solid 3" group with anything. Plinking ammo may open it up to 4", but that's not a huge deal. Especially at a savings of $16/100. For most semiautos, unless I am shooting from a rest, I don't use the highest cost bullets.
 
I just couldn't bring myself to load up a bunch of rounds, just to hear them go BOOM, or to watch dirt fly.
As posted, some applications do not need maximum accuracy. If I want that, I can drag out my Benchrest gun and shoot some bug holes (Well, try. :D). Or I can drag out my FN-SPR .308 or my Sako heavy barrel .222 Mag and shoot tiny things at 300 yards. But sometimes I just want to shoot some steel at 40 yards or so with my pistols, and there are plenty of less than extremely accurate, but still very accurate, loads that are more than up to the job for this.

And yes, sometimes I just like to make dirt fly, and a cheap .223 load works great for that.

Different people have different priorities, and who is to say one priority is better than the other? My priority is to have fun shooting. I can accomplish that in many ways.

Some days it is the AK killing dirt colds at 40 yards, other days it is twanging steel with a .32 Mag, the next may be the .44 Mag, and some days I like to frustrate myself shooting groups at 100 yards with a .22 Hornet rifle. The next day it may be a 9MM carbine at 300 yards with 14" steel plates.

Kind of depends on the mood. There is nothing I own I cannot have fun with, nor anything I own that I cannot get bored. :)
 
Well, for me at least there is never a waste of components whenever I reload anything ("plinking", SD, or hunting ammo), unless I spill powder or lose a primer on the floor. I like to shoot and I like to reload. Neither is a necessity for me, they are hobbies, so if I'm partaking in my hobby, and I get pleasure, nothing is wasted!

FWIW; I have loaded and shot premium target bullets (Nosler 168 gr.) in my stock "special grade" M1 Garand. I don't think my rifle is capable of under 2-3 inch groups at 100 yds., but I enjoyed loading and shooting them so nothing was wasted...
 
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I load every round for max accuracy BUT the projectile in "plinking" rounds will not be the expensive part. I use pulls/blems etc to save on the overall cost of shooting a particular firearm/caliber. I do NOT use 45 CAL Gold Dots in my Mac 10 ever.:D MB has me covered there with their Hardball projectiles at a great price.;)
 
Who said "plinking" ammo isn't accurate? My plinking ammo is simply light loads that are intended for target practice or playing at the range. These loads are worked up for accuracy like any other is.
 
I have always used "plinking" as inexpensive ammo.

My .308 backyard plinking ammo for example are cast and coated bullets that shoot well inside an inch at 60 yards and only cost 10g of trail boss and a large primer to shoot.

However, I have also loaded "cull" bullets up for others to "play" with. No need to use up your good stuff when people are just blasting away.

It would hurt too much to see my best ammo being dumped out the end of a machinegun when the only goal the shooter has in mind is to gain a smile.
 
Try 3.8grs of Clays with 200gr cast lsw bullet in a good 1911. Certainly a plinking load. Most definitely not inaccurate.
Some of my guns like faster loads. I'm not that fond of recoil if I can load something just as good.
That said, I do load near max for some SD practice at times.
 
I regularly run cast bullets in my old military guns for practice and fun. Much more pleasant for the family and friends to shoot. Works great on our pistol range.
 
Plinking is a form of practice. Not all practice is formal, tight tolerance minute precision shooting. Now with this understood, you can now understand that I can plink my tailored handloads for a few cents apiece, and more accurately, than with factory loads for quite a lot more money.
 
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