Will there be a problem if we don't reblue right away?

[RavenVT100]

I posted about this before some time ago. I have a Ruger MkII with the "slab sided" barrel that sustained a pretty bad scratch on one of the slab sides. We managed to polish it out, but it removed most of the bluing from that side as well as making the "polish' not match the other side (I think the sides are filed). The cold blue that I used to cover the polished side is splotchy, and it really doesn't look like it should. It's no substitute for a hot blue.

I didn't really remove any metal when polishing the scratch out, but I'm just concerned that it could corrode over time. I keep it wrapped in a silicone cloth. Will the gun become more damaged if I don't get it professionally reblued right away? I'm hoping to wait a year or two before rebluing it and having that side filed so that it matches the other side again. It shoots fine otherwise.

To be honest, the bigger mark is really on my ego, not the gun. I usually pride myself on doing things right, but it looks like a I committed a big error by polishing out the scratch with a rotating brush--something that I later learned you should *not* do on your own.

 

[Walt Sherrill]

No.

But if you used Birchwood-Casey bluing, try some other brands, such as Ox-Pho Blue (from Brownells) or G96 Gun creme. Degrease it completely first, and heat it with a heat gun before applying the bluing. Do a lot of thin coats.

While it may vary with the metal, it is possible to get bluing that almost matches a deep S&W factory blue.

The cold blue won't be as durable, but it can be made to look very nice.

 

[RavenVT100]

The best results I've had have been with a product called Blue Wonder. The reason being that it seems to last, wheras the Birchwood Casey product faded over time.

However, I cannot possibly get it to look like factory. it's very obvious, and I've tried it four times now using a heat gun and getting the metal to the exact temperature that they claim you should get it to.

 

[P95Carry]

Raven - you'll not promote any damage if you keep the area protected. I suggest using a cloth impregnated with CLP as one ''wipe'' option - or even RIG grease.

Some may usefully suggest a coat of Carnauba wax, or try some Boeshield, which leaves a sorta thin wax film. All these will protect pretty well for as long as you want IMO - just avoid sweat or severe humidity reaching the surface if protection gets rubbed off.

 

[RavenVT100]

Yes, the silicone cloth has been rubbed on guns with CLP, and as such has been impregnated with it. There's a CLP residue left behind on anything it touches. It makes a perfect protective barrier for guns.

I'm glad I didn't cause any functional damage to the weapon. I'm just a little pissed that I was so stupid in the first place.

 

[Walt Sherrill]

It wasn't stupid. it was a learning experience.

If you do it again, its stupid.