Win M70 6.5X55

[Mike Irwin]

Jay,

I rather think it has a stylish and classic look to it that's SADLY lacking from the aesthetic monstrosoties that are being made these days.

As to why MTNBKR things it's a basketball....

Beats me.

 

[mtnbkr]

I drop one rifle...

I'm surprised nobody's accused me of being french

For Sale: One rifle, only dropped once (can't say never fired since I burned 2lbs of powder in reloads alone...).

Chris

 

[Mike Irwin]

You're too annoying to be French...

You were talking about rebedding it, weren't you?

Did you?

 

[mtnbkr]

I bedded the rifle after I dropped it since I had the gun apart already for stock repairs. I'm not redoing it any time soon.

Are you thinking of the ugly 30-06? I mentioned that I wanted to bed it just to see how it reacts...

I faht in your general direction you silly eeenglish kaniggits.

Chris

 

[tbige]

mtnbkr: You forget your meds this morning?

 

[mtnbkr]

You're too annoying to be French...

Dunno why that statement made me think of MT The Holy Grail...

Chris

 

[Mike Irwin]

Fechez la vache!



I knew you bedded it after the big drop, but for some reason I thought you had said you were going to hog it and and redo it as you weren't happy with it.

I guess I wasn't paying attention.

 

[mtnbkr]

I thought you had said you were going to hog it and and redo it as you weren't happy with it

ooohhhhh, ok. No, what I said (or at least what was running through my brain) was that I could hog it out and rebed it if the shooting results weren't to my liking. I only did a "skim" bed that first time around. However, due to Winchester's loose inletting, I got a lot of glass in there.

Chris

 

[Mike Irwin]

OK... That makes sense now.

I misinterpreted what you said.

Probably because every time I talk to you I have visions of you sitting on that can of brake parts cleaner...

 

[Jaywalker]

mtnbkr:

I only did a "skim" bed that first time around.

What's that?

Jaywalker

 

[Mike Irwin]

"skim bedding" is using only a thin layer of glass that's just smeared over the existing wood.

A more exacting way is to actually remove some wood in certain areas to make absolutely sure that the action is fully supported at all points. It also relieves any potential high points that might tend to warp the action in the stock when the screws are tightened back down.

 

[mtnbkr]

It's like a normal bedding job except that you don't remove any wood. If the inletting is close enough, you'll have a very thin skim of glass. If it's loose, you'll have more glass, but still less than a regular bedding job. I decided to try that first with the idea that I could always hog it out and do it over. It worked, so I'm not changing it.

Chris

 

[Jaywalker]

John Barsness had a good article in the November 03 "Rifle" magazine about basic bedding, and I think I'll try out his approaches. My Ruger 77 RL shows tendencies to string, for which he recommends tip-bedding as an easy and often effective approach. I mention this because he wrote that recent Winchesters wouldn't necessarily benefit from such an approach, as their tips don't appear to be in much contact with the barrel. For them, he recommended building up a contact point in the fore-end, if someone wanted fore-end contact.

He mentioned an alternate way to do the "dollar-bill" free floating, rather than to scrape out all that wood in the barrel channel. In this approach, you build up a platform just behind the recoil lug, thereby angling the barrel slightly upwards. You'd still have to remove the fore-end contact point, but it would preclude having to remove any more wood. He calculates that that would make about a 4 MOA difference.

I presume from your approaches that it is possible to remove the epoxy if you change your mind; I'd wondered.

Did you remove the hot glue from around the recoil lug? How?

Jaywalker

 

[mtnbkr]

I left the hot glue in place since, at the time, I felt I was working with an expendable stock (this was right after I dropped it and caused a fair amount of cosmetic damage). I simply wanted to learn how to bed a rifle and see if a quick and dirty job would do anything.

I've since repaired the damage and decided to keep the stock. With the new bedding, groups shrank from .5-.75 at 50yds to .26-.5" at 50yds. It's not a huge improvement, but a nice one nonetheless. Also, the gun's groups do not expand much after the barrel gets hot and dirty. Prior, after 10 shots or so, I was getting 1" groups at 50yds.

The action is unstressed as far as I can tell. I can loosen either action screw and retighten it without any perceptible movement of the action, a sign of a pressure point.

Chris

 

[JStordahl]

Well gents.........I asked the very same question concerning Winchester 70s in 6.5x55 in a long or short action. The answer I received on another forum, by a fellow that had one,is........it comes in a long action. Now can someone measure theirs from the front of the receiver ring to some specific point rearward and tell us.......interested parties really want to know.

I intend to get a 6.5x55 Swede in the Classic Featherweight 70, but they used to make them in the push feed XTR versions, too. Maybe the XTR was a long and the Classic is a short? Who can tell? Get out the rulers, please. Thank you.....your help is appreciated.