Win Model 70 or Rem 700?

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andrewdl007

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Well, I've decided that I should get a good bolt action rifle. While I do like Mausers and other historic rifles Ive decided that it should be something chambered in 30-06 or maybe .380 Win. Anyway, do you recomend a Winchester Modle 70 or a Rmington 700 or maybe something different? Also, what caliber? Maybe you like something different than 30-06. Thanks.
 
Personally I have never tried a win. Model 70, but I can tell you that I have nothing but respect for the Rem 700. My personal bolt rifle for deer is a Savage Model 110 in .270 win. Savage rifles are cheaper than winchesters or Remingtons, but they are every bit as accurate!
 
Ooooh...touch decision.

Maybe a coin toss between the Savage (absolutely LOVE that trigger!) and the Win 70, but in the end I would probably go for the 700...mostly in a Ford or Chevy kind of way between the Winchester and the Remington. Sorry I couldn't quantify it better for you.
 
if you are comparing a remington 700 to a winchester classic, then get whichever you like better. if you are talking about a rem 700 vs any push feed or controlled round push feed winchester, then get the 700. i have several examples of both (and savages, pre-64 winchesters, etc) and my preference is the remington 700.

for cartridge, i really like the 308 win a ton more than 30-06, but this is another of those 'no appreciable difference' kind of deals.

a word... ever since winchester went out of business, their prices have been getting pretty unrealistic (they closed down, because they produced a very average gun for a premium price... so if they are more expensive now...?). as an example, i have a stainless/walnut featherweight in 270 that i paid about $600 for. i was recently offered $1000 for the same rifle (nope, didn't sell, not for sale). to put that in perspective, i was offered more money for it than i paid for my last pre-64 winchester 70...

good luck!
 
If your talking new guns, then get the Remington 700, unless you find a reasonable priced pre 64 model 70, which is doubtful. And as far as calibers go, the 30-06 is great for most medium and large game animals.
 
I prefer the Winchester over the Remington because of the safety on the M70. It, of course, is a 3 stage vs the 2 stage on the Rem 700. I never liked having to place the safety in the fire position in order to open the bolt. The Ruger M77 also has a 3 stage safety. My first deer rifle was a M70 in .243, so I've used one for many years. Still use a M70 in .280.
 
If buying new I would recommend the Remington, Ruger or Tikka in no particular order. Pick your features, they are all good guns.

If looking at used guns, I feel the post 64 pushfeed Winchesters are a great buy as a shooter. Maybe not as a collector. I have 4 that were made during the 1980's that shoot as well as any rifle I have ever owned. I like the 3 position safety and they have better wood and finish than most production rifles being made today. The prices on these rifles have not gone crazy like the CRF Winchesters and can be found for considerably less than new Remington CDL's.
 
I have a model 70 and a Browning A-Bolt. The Browning makes it to the field while the other stays home in the safe. Both are great guns. To me it is all in the fit and feel. Happy hunting!
 
What's wrong with owning BOTH? :)

I have pre-64's, the new (last production) Model 70's, and several 700's. All are good, but all can be less than satisfactory if you're 1) not practiced and/or 2) using ammo they simply don't like (bullet weights / loads). I also like the A-bolt II (very slick actions - like glass, better than the 700 OR 70), and triggers are all similar. The 700's can be adjusted by a non-gunsmith person easily IF you know what you're doing. The new 70's, with CONTROLLED FEED are, in my humble opinion, as good or better than the much-bragged-upon-overrated-overpriced pre-64's. (I heard gasps by pre-64 lovers... but sorry guys, if you haven't shot the newer controlled feeders in WSSMs, you oughta try one or two). Kevlar stocks in the 700's are nice but heavy... and I still lean towards the beautiful of walnut and hand checkering of the classics. But a 700 Sendero in .300WM, being heavy with the kevlar stock, is most welcomed on a bench when running a few boxes of 220 grainers at over 2800fps.

Good luck with your decision. Bottom line is, a 70, 700 or A-bolt are all good choices for a bolt gun. Practice with it, and a higher quality scope imho, will make it a real shooter. And no, I didn't mean BSA optics. Sticking a BSA or other junk scope on such a piece you're considering is like putting crappy $50 tires on a Ferrari. :)
 
While I do like Mausers and other historic rifles Ive decided that it should be something chambered in 30-06.............or maybe something different

I vote 1903 Springfield

Failing that option, if you must have a commercial weapon, go for a Winchester Model 54
:neener:
 
I'm looking down the same path right now, for a Bolt action 30-06 or .308.

Right now I'm leaning twords Remmy 700 in .308win, it's up between the; LTR, PSS or SPS. After you decide on the 700 there are more choices to be had in the models.
 
This is a “Ford versus Chevy” argument. Basically it comes down to preferences.

I prefer a M70 classic over the M700 due to more positive extractor grip and a lighter bolt lift. All the M70’s had adjustable triggers, some of the M700 did not. I have a M700 which I have been able to adjust the trigger to about 2.5 pounds without causing a sear override. (more on that later)

When off the shelf actions ruled the Highpower Winners circle, these actions dominated the match rifle category. Both actions have proved to be fine, durable, reliable actions, and both are characterized by attention to detail and good engineering.

If you blow a case head the M700 is by far the safer action. I picked up at the range a cartridge case that had been pried from a M700 bolt face. The case head had totally ballooned due to excessive pressure and it took pliers to get the thing out off the bolt face. Case head stamping were obliterated; the pressures must have been 100K. That reloader was very lucky that that a M700 provides excellent cartridge support. I am sure that cartridge would have burst its case head in a M70, possibly causing a broken receiver ring.

The M700 is more dust sensitive than a M70 due to its bolt head fitting inside the barrel recess. The M700 extractor is more prone to wear, than a M70 push feed. The pre 64 claw extractor will outlast them both.

I like the fact I can easily remove the firing pin assembly from a M70. It is terribly difficult to disassemble below that level, but at least I can wipe the innards of the bolt , oil the firing pin spring, grease the cocking piece threads. The M700 appears to require special tools to remove the firing pin assembly.

Both the Winchester and Remington use override triggers. I dislike override triggers, I do not consider them as safe as the good ole Mauser two stage. One fault of an override trigger is that if the distance between cocking piece and trigger block is too much, the cocking piece will hit the mechanism too hard and “override” the sear. Another blasted fault of override triggers is that most of them use sear blocking safeties. There is perhaps 0.001” of sear engagement preventing the firing pin from going forward. A significant jar, or an override trigger out of adjustment, and the rifle will discharge. I really dislike using sear blocking safeties as the only safety mechanism.

Having vented my hatred of override triggers, it is my considered opinion that the Winchester factory trigger is about the most foolproof and reliable of any override trigger on the market. Also, the Winchester safety positively holds the firing pin to the rear and locks the bolt down. The action can be emptied of rounds while the firing pin is locked to the rear. This is good. The Remington safety is a sear blocking type and has had enough accidental discharges over decades to create a great financial liability for that company. A senior citizen, HM distinguished shooter I know, told me of two accidental discharges with new M721 rifles. This would have been in the early 50’s. He either knew, or personally saw the discharges. In both incidents the shooter was proceeding to empty the rifle. Both rifles immediately discharged when the safety was taken off. One of those discharges put a hole in the floorboards of a car! :what:

I have heard that late model Remington triggers are now unadjustable and have very heavy trigger pulls. The bolt is not locked down when the safety is engaged. I don’t like this, I have had brush or gear snag my bolt handles, and I sure as heck do not want to cheek my rifle only to have a misfire because the bolt rotated. My late model M700 trigger was adjustable and I made sure that I had enough sear engagement that hard slaps, butt drops, and fast bolt manipulation did not cause an override. I really recommend to all that they slap their rifle hard and see if they can jar the trigger. There have been a couple of times that I have tripped over invisible roots and fallen face down on my rifle. No discharges to date. :D

Dick Chaney has shot more hunting buddies than me. :eek: I want to keep my score to zero.

If you have noticed, the Savage new override trigger is a virtual two stage trigger. I was unable to disassemble the trigger mechanism of the rifle I handled (“do you mind if I completely disassemble your rifle to see how it ticks?”) but I expect Savage is having to do this because of the unreliability inherent in override triggers.
 
Personally, I don't like two position safeties that, while on "safe" do not lock the bolt down (ala newer Remington 700s). Too much chance in the field while hunting for the bolt to be unintentionally lifted (and thus rendered inoperable) while in the "safe" mode. Much preferable are three position safeties (like Winchester Model 70s, Savage Model 110s and the newer Ruger Model 77s) or even two position safeties that lock the bolt down on safe but require you to unload the rifle while it is in the "fire" position (like older Remington 700s and Ruger 77s). There is nothing inherently unsafe about unloading a firearm in the off- safe position if proper gun safety protocol is observed.
 
Don: Thanks for the nice words. Having competed since 1996 at Camp Perry, it was sad to see the "classic" bolt gun fade and be replaced with Space Guns and Tubb Rifles.

However, when they had a Friday with three 600 yard matches, that's when I used to see the M70's and M700's return to the firing line. Then the powers that be discontinued the 600 yard match in 2007. And as I cannot hit a barn past 600 yards, I don't shoot the long range matches.

Good that someone won with a Classic Bolt gun.

Best Regards, SlamFire
 
recently I went thru a similar situation...
the good folks on here helped me out a lot.
I won't even pretend to know as much as Slamfire1 or some of the other
gents on here, but here's what I do know:
For me it was the Rem 700 vs the A-Bolt. Going and HOLDING(fondling, groping),
them both really helped me decide. Yes, I liked the Browning more, but not $400 more.
Like $100 more. So the Rem is my next purchase...
I went and held it today (again)...and I love it. The action is smooth, the balance is
near perfect, it's light, and easy to like.
But going and holding them really helped me decide.
so, the Rem 700 SPS .30-06 in blued it is.
FWIW.

GP
 
CZ with a full stock in 308 caliber - beautiful lines, detachable mag and great all around caliber.
 
98% of folks don't know the difference between pre- and post-'64s, nor do they know or care about controlled round feed, or push feed, or extractor type, or about recoil lug design, or care about safety positions. So for most, it's really a toss-up...and they should buy which ever one they like the looks of, or whatever's on sale. :)
 
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