winchester 94 wood care

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PonyKiller

PonyKiller

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I have an older (1962) model 94 that's a hand-me-down. It served 30 years as a woods rifle then roughly twenty years of neglect. When I got it, there were spiders in the bore and rust in the action. I got that functional, and it's now a pretty reasonable shooter. The wood is dry and dull., it was a plain jane, no checkering utilitarian killin machine. If it were not attached to a gun i'd hit it with murphy's oil soap and then linseed oil, but for a gunstock i'm a true rookie. It's banged up and has some scars from the woods, i'm not trying to make it new, just clean it up and and bring the character out.
 
After you remove the finish with Formby's I like to use Birchwood Casey's Tru Oil, Conditioner and Shine and either their wax or someone's else. Wood waxes are all pretty good from Pledge to others. Even a good car wax works well. I also like to use the Birchwood Casey stains in Walnut or Rusted Walnut followed by the clear filler/sealer then the truoil etc. There is a video out on dealing with the etching on wood stocks by Birchwood Casey's also.
 
I bought and used Danish oil on everything. It really didn't fix the one I was concerned about for some reasons but a few stocks came out looking fantastically well and different than ever before, all had been treated with many of the mentioned products.
 
Old english 800 with scratch cover, (furniture polish) comes in light and dark.
Won't remove the dings and scratches, but will make them look great.
I use it on blued parts as well.
 
Scott's Liquid Gold. Great for cleaning, let the wood soak in as much as it wants, then wipe off the rest.

One warning: Remember the warnings you've heard about oily rags self combusting? SLG and similar wood treatments are the oils that inspired that saying. Store the used rags in an airtight can.
 
I have a 1949 Winchester Mod 94 .30 WCF that I refinished the stock many years ago and it still looks real good. Doesn't even show its age at all.

Remove the stock and forearm. Lightly sand them with very fine sand paper (I used 400 grit wet & dry). Finish with hand rubbed tung oil. When I mean lightly sand, don't bother removing the scratches or gouges. Leave them there for character.
 
I have heard Johnsons Paste Floor Wax is the working man's equivalent of the carnauba wax used by museums to preserve antique arms and armour without destroying the remnants of the original finish.
 
I suggest using "Renaissance Wax" on your stock, after the cleaning and sanding is all through. This won't hurt the metal parts either. Using this wax, used by British museums and arms restoration firms, NRA museum to name a few. This wax will leave your firearm protected like no other ! I've used it on all of my firearms, no streaking while buffing it off, no fingerprints after handling either! I bought mine off of Midway USA
 
Thanks for the great sugestions, I ordered what I couldn't source locally , which wasn't much thankfully. I'm fairly good with wood, and really good with metal, i'm looking forward to being healthy enough to doing it.
 
practiced with the Formby's and steel wool on a 5 decade old shillelagh. Came out really good for a one armed man! Boosted the confidence greatly.
 
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