Winchester model 70, 670 or Mauser 98?

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My local gun shop has a old Winchester 670 30-06, a Winchester model 70 243win and a Mauser 98 bent bolt 30-06. All are in great shape and with scopes all around $500 "my price". The calibers don't matter to me at all. I'm looking for good long distance shooter, hunter with good after market. I would like your thoughts are which rifle I should pick up and why. thanks you guys
 
I have a Winchester model 70 in 30-06. I've never had any complaints about it.
 
A real Model 70 at the same price as the other two.
Not even a contest.
Get the Model 70 if it is in halfway decent shape.

The 670 was an economy version of the Model 70.

The sporterized Mauser is god knows what, done by god knows who.

rc
 
Have to agree with RC on that one. Unless that Mauser is one hell of a nice rifle, that Win is going to retain a much higher resale. If it's in good condition, jump on that Win (Bet you all never thought you would see that typed from me huh!) I give credit where it's due.
 
the winchester is priced at $700 the mauser at $800 but I will get them at $500. they are all very nice how hard would it be you pick up a heavybarrel for the model 70? Maybe I can get some pics up by friday.
 
No problem at all.

Just expect to pay as much or more for a good heavy barrel & a gunsmith to put it on as you paid for the rifle.

If you want a heavy barrel on a hunting rifle for some strange reason?
Buy one already made that way.

It will be cheaper in the long run.

rc
 
I like my rifles to reach out to 800yards
Good luck with that right there.

There is a lot more to shooting at 800 yards than a heavy barrel.

As for hunting at that range?
Very few bullets & calibers are capable of good expansion and clean ethical kills at much past 400-500 yards, tops.

Even far fewer hunters could estimate & hold for an 800 yard shot if it jumped up and bit them on the hind end.

A typical very good 30-06 load drops over 18 feet at 800 yards, and is going less then 1,500 FPS when it gets there.

rc
 
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The 670 is a good gun, but those are post-64 budget guns. They typically only bring $200-$300. Someone is trying to take advantage of you.
 
PLEASE don't have a heavy barrel put on a pre '64 model 70. That is an amazing firearm that will serve you well just how it is.
 
RC, I like my rifles to reach out to 800yards because I enjoy being able to hit targets at that range. No I'm am not going to shoot a deer that far out thats not what I meant at all sorry for the confusion. jakescott586 thank you for your thoughts and I agree with you I tend to forget how good something is and how it has proved itself and I just right to let's make it better. I see the light lol. JMR40 the price of the 670 is at $450 with scope my price would be cheaper
 
If it is truly a pre-64 Model 70, and not one of the newer versions marketed as being a pre-64 style or type,,,, you would completely destroy any collector value by re-barreling it. Earning yourself a place in gun collector hell along with the burning bubbas' .

Also note that the pre-64 model 70s were not necessarily known as the most accurate long range shooters in the world. The best all around hunting rifle,,, maybe,,, but it took lots of work to make them into long range target rifles. There is a reason the Marine Corps went away from highly modified M-70s and went to the Remington 700 action (M-40) for their sniper rifles.
 
There is a reason the Marine Corps went away from highly modified M-70s and went to the Remington 700 action (M-40) for their sniper rifles.

Yeah, Remington actively went after the government contract, and Winchester did not.:D

Don
 
I don't think either of these rifles are pre-64's. I know the 670 is not. I think the seller has all of them over priced and is trying to imply that they are worth more than they really are. If he is asking $450 for a 670, it better have a darn good scope on it.

Even if he does find a pre 64 it won't hurt the collecters value buy modifying it because 99% of them have no real collectors value anyway. Only those made prior to WW-2 or one in a rare configuration or chambering would have any real value to it. A common 243 or 30-06 is nothing more than a shooter with no more value than any other 60 year old rifle in comparable condition.
 
Buy both the mauser and the M70. You could probably sell the M70 for enough to finance the modifications on the Mauser, if it's in decent shape.

Matt
 
"Even if he does find a pre 64 it won't hurt the collecters value buy modifying it because 99% of them have no real collectors value anyway. Only those made prior to WW-2 or one in a rare configuration or chambering would have any real value to it. A common 243 or 30-06 is nothing more than a shooter with no more value than any other 60 year old rifle in comparable condition"

While I fully understand what a "real collectable" mod 70 is I have to strongly disagree with the notion that an "ordinary" pre 64 mod 70 has no more value than any other "60 year old "shooter"" and that making major modifications won't really "hurt" the value....


If you're interested in maintaining value go with the model 70 unless the mauser is a very high grade custom...
 
Thank you all for your input. If you think about it a 670 runs about $200-$300 and it has a $400 on it and you own a business you have to make money so buy the rifle at $300-$350 and sell it for $450. Nobody said I was going to pay $450 I'll walk out of their paying $300. The guy treats me very well and gives me discounts on everything. Don't worry about the money guys, I need your input on the guns themselves which do you think is the better weapon. As it stands the model 70 is in the lead.
 
OHHHHHHH well if the money part is not a factor, I.E. value down the road is not a concern, then if that Mauser is in as good a shape as you say, I'd have to jump on that instead. Sorry but a well done Mauser K98 action .30/06 will flat beat up on a Model 70 all day long and twice on Sunday. Now that's as long as everything was properly done. Action squared up, Barrel set properly as well as the bedding of the action and barrel and all that good stuff. A well built K98 sporter is a hard rifle to beat. VERY hard. It's not hard to imagine considering 95% of all bolt actions are either a direct rip off of the Mauser action or a pretty close copy.
 
Sorry but a well done Mauser K98 action .30/06 will flat beat up on a Model 70 all day long and twice on Sunday. Now that's as long as everything was properly done. Action squared up, Barrel set properly as well as the bedding of the action and barrel and all that good stuff. A well built K98 sporter is a hard rifle to beat. VERY hard. It's not hard to imagine considering 95% of all bolt actions are either a direct rip off of the Mauser action or a pretty close copy.

So what you are basically saying is that a well tuned, custom k98 is more accurate than a pre 64 mod 70, which is very, very similar to a 98 that has been sporterized in the first place. I find it very hard to believe that there is a substantial difference in accuracy because bone stock most 98's and 70's shoot about the same with a possible slight advantage in favor of the 70. Furthermore, if you did the same tuning to a 70 that you mentioned doing to a 98 then I still would expect the 70 to shoot as well. On top of that a mod 70 receiver is much more rigid than a 98 because there is no thumb cutout on the side of the receiver wall for a stripper clip. I also believe the lock time on the mod 70 to be faster then on a 98. The 70 is also going to have a better trigger than a stock 98 and could be fitted with a better one to equal whatever trigger you put in a 98. So, bottom line is I don’t see where this extra edge in accuracy is coming from in favor of the 98 with all things being equal.
 
I don't either.

The model 70 or 670's very fast lock time will beat a Mauser 98 if nothing else.
The flat bottom receivers bed the same on a Model 70 or a 98 Mauser.
You can true either action just the same.

We used them for our 1,000 yard Match and Sniper rifles when I was in the Army.
Anyone that says they cannot be made to shoot very accurately, and as well if not better then a 98 is full of it.

But regardless of all that.
I simply could not recommend anyone buy a Sporterized 98 over a factory Model 70 for anywhere near the same price.

A gazillion 98's have been Bubba'd into sporters over the years, and there are far more Bubba's then gunsmiths who knew how to build very fine 98 Mauser Sporters.

rc
 
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Ok you both obviously didn't read what I wrote so read it again here "OHHHHHHH well if the money part is not a factor, I.E. value down the road is not a concern, then if that Mauser is in as good a shape as you say, I'd have to jump on that instead. Sorry but a well done Mauser K98 action .30/06 will flat beat up on a Model 70 all day long and twice on Sunday. Now that's as long as everything was properly done. Action squared up, Barrel set properly as well as the bedding of the action and barrel and all that good stuff. A well built K98 sporter is a hard rifle to beat. VERY hard."

I DID state that a WELL DONE K98 .30/06 will beat a bone stock Model 70. You BOTH stated that you would have to do things to the Model 70 to equal the the performance of a well done K98. He doesn't seem to be looking at a rifle to work on but looking at rifles that the work is already done. IF the K98 is as nicely done as he is saying, then pound for pound the K98 would be a better value since he will have more bang for his already spent buck! Now, RC I do completely agree with you that a Pre 64 Model 70 is a fine rifle and yes you can make them a very accurate and dependable rifle, hell they are a pretty good rifle right off the bat, but a truly well done K98, in my opinion after building quite a few of them, is a very hard rifle for ANY bone stock off the shelf production rifle to beat.

Now, if he were going to buy that Model 70 and do some work on it, then hey, either one would be a fine choice. But again, if the work is already done, and done well, on the K98, I just have to imagine that it is a better value for his dollar.
 
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