Winchester Model 70 fore-end screw

[ThreadKiller]

I'm breaking in a pre-64 338. Bore sighted and shot it for the first time today. It didn't seem to want to shoot groups very bad, kinda scattered shots on the target. The thing is in very good shape so I figure it ought to shoot a little better.

I got it home and checked the action screws and the fore-end screws. The fore end screw was loose. I turned it in about 4 turns until it was tight. I'm thinking this was the reason the rifle wasn't shooting reasonably tight groups off the bench. I know these rifles are all individuals but it seems to me that the fore end screw on these rifles should be snug +/- to shoot their best.

I've got Talley rings on it and all the mount screws are tight.

I don't expect this ol' girl to be a benchrester, but the 338 round is known to be reasonably accurate and every old Model 70 I've shot, well it shot well.

I'm feeding it Federal Premium 250 Nosler Partition factory loads btw.

I've read about the fore end screw and how it can affect accuracy (probably from reading Jack O'Connner) but I don't exactly remember what the recommended torque is on the fore end screw. The actions screws are supposed to be tight and the middle action screw is just supposed to be just snug, but not at all tight.

Thanks,

Tim

 

[Onmilo]

I think tightning the screw should have fixed the problem.
Don't you just hate being at the range, discovering a minor problem and not having a small kit of tools to fix the problem on the spot.
Oh well, gives you another excuse to head out to the range again!

 

[hps1]

I'm breaking in a pre-64 338.

TK:
I am almost envious! Pre-64 338 WOW!

As you said, each rifle is a case unto itself. I generally remove the forend screw on my pre-64's and they all seem to shoot well that way. I torque the action screws (both) to 65 inch# and just barely snug the center screw.

Next step I would try would be to glass bed the action, paying close attention to recoil lug, at the same time, free floating the barrel. Try it again, if it still doesn't shoot, add a glass bed @ front of stock channel that applies about 5# pressure at that point.

You probably already know this, but I had to learn it the hard way. I shot groups off bench w/up to 30-06 rifles just letting the rifle lay on the bags, light grip on pistol grip & let the guns recoil as they would. Produced lots of sub moa groups that way. Then stepped up to the 300 Win Mag, 338 WM and 375 H&H and couldn't get decent groups from any of them (best groups were 1 3/4" and then on up to 3" on some).

Finally realize that you have to hold the heavier recoiling rifles snugly and exactly the same way from shot to shot. Once this method applied the groups dropped to sub moa on all but the 300 and it is just one of those problem rifles. Best it will do is 1 1/4 to 1 3/4".

Have fun working the kinks out of a really great rifle and keep us posted.

Regards,
hps

 

[ThreadKiller]

Thanks for the responses. The apparent erratic POI is worrisome to me. I do have a McMillan glass stock on the way for this rifle so my efforts here are somewhat a waste of time. But I want to learn if this thing will shoot or not. At least I have it on paper now.

Yesterday it would put two shots reasonably close together, then the next would be high and right and the next would be high and left. Each shot felt good as the trigger broke so I don't think it was the operator, at least in that respect.

I did notice last night that the factory stock ihas a little split in the grip area just behind the action both top and bottom. So now I feel even smarter for ordering the McMillan stock. I don't think I'll bother bedding this stock.

An Alaskan brown bear hunt is scheduled for me and the 338 this spring. It doesn't have to be really, really accurate, minute of bear covers a lot of ground , but it does have to have a consistent POI. (as does any huntin' rifle). However, I do expect this rifle to shoot well as the old Model 70's have that reputation. My brother, the REAL hunter in the family, is toting along his pre-64 375 for the hunt.

In the past when shooting my "little" Model 70's, I've always strived to position the fore-end in the same place on the bags for each shot and that's always worked. The 338 has just a little bit more recoil than does my 270 (ahem) so I quickly learned I had to develop a new benchrest technique for this one. Usually I had to rebuild the pyramid of sandbags after each shot. There's absolutely no mistaking when that Federal 250 NP load is touched off.

While I'd like to think I held the gun on the bags the same way for each shot, it could well be that some operator error was induced during yesterday's session. It was cool and damp here yesterday and my glasses liked to fog up once I got hunkered down behind the rifle.

But after I'm satisfied that I have a consistent POI (and the Federal load is reasonably accurate), most of my shooting will be done in field positions over crossed sticks. I may end up actually having to develop a handload with the Noslers for this rig, but the Federal factories do have a good reputation.

And as far as tools go, it's a tradition with me to leave vital tools behind on the bench when I got shootin'. Muffs, ammo, stapler, targets, all that I can manage. It's those darn tools that get me.

Thanks again!

Tim