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Wolff springs in GP100

Discussion in 'Handguns: Revolvers' started by Dewey 68, Aug 15, 2011.

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  1. Dewey 68

    Dewey 68 Member

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    I just installed some Wolff springs in my Gp100, a 10# hammer spring and 8# trigger return spring. The start of the trigger pull in DA seems to "catch" a little at the start of the pull. My question is, is there an orientation to the hammer spring? I put the flatter side down towards the claw catch mechanism. I guess I could switch it around and see how it feels, since it only takes a few minutes to do.

    Just looking for some experience out there with this.
     
  2. greyling22

    greyling22 Member

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    my quick research says no. have you tried working the action without the grips on to see if it is hanging up on the hammer strut somewhere? if so, you may need to do a bit of filing and polishing.
     
  3. Dewey 68

    Dewey 68 Member

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    After dry firing for a few minutes it seems better, that or I've got used to it.
     
  4. Drail

    Drail Member

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    Sounds like a worn or short hammer dog. If it gets worse (I'm guessing it will) you'll need to replace that part. Pay attention to how it feels. Also keep in mind that Ruger revolvers demand a full stroke of the trigger fore and aft for the trigger parts to mesh. If short stroked on the forward stroke even a tiny bit the trigger will not reset fully. A great many people have experienced this. My wife's GP 100 from around 1989 wore a hammer dog out. It will need a little fitting work. Either by Ruger or someone who's worked on Ruger revolvers for a while. The part is cheap. The shipping and labor can get expensive. I would call Ruger and see what they think. You might also try going up on the spring weights a little, especially the trigger return spring. If too light the reset can be very sluggish, almost as if your finger is having to "wait" for the trigger to catch up.
     
    Last edited: Aug 15, 2011
  5. Got_Lead?

    Got_Lead? Member

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    Dewey:

    You may have excess oil on the top of the hammer face. My Redhawk does this, and the oil causes a "suction" as the hammer flat on top pulls away from the topstrap. I couldn't figure what the problem was for years. It felt like the frame was magnetized or something.

    Just for grins, wipe the upper hammer face, and the frame just above the transfer bar clean of oil and try the action. See if that doesn't make a difference.
     
  6. GP100man

    GP100man Member

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    To isolate the problem remove the cyl & reassemble without it in place, if hitch is still there it`s in the trigger or springs some where .

    Problem spots are the trigger return spring well (ruffness can be cleaned up with a 13/64 drill bit)

    Hammer strut & spring binding on each other , pawl binding in the window .

    If the cyl has to be installed to get the hitch back , look at the ejection star to see if all the notches are the same & cleaned of flashing or a nick (magnification a must)

    The sears rarely cause binding ,but can & stoning here needs to be done by someone with experience !!

    The hammer is started by the da sear ,then picked up by the dog but still needs to be smooth .

    I install 10# trigger & 12# hammer minimum !!!!!

    This is common for all the hitches & ruffness to surface when lite springs are installed in all brands of revolvers !!!

    You can also shim the trigger and hammer to help consistentcey & smoothness of pull .
    The shims keep the trigger & hammer centered in there pivot points .
     
  7. Dewey 68

    Dewey 68 Member

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    Thanks for the input guys, I'll check those items and report back.
     
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