I purchased a set of reduced power springs for my GP100. I think I read somewhere about people saying they had to try different Lb. springs to get there gun to fire, some were to light. I use federal primers because they can handle light strikes better than other primers. Is this right? Does anyone know if you can have to light of a trigger return spring? Are there any disavantages to using reduced power springs?
Wolff Springs?
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Manufacturers use springs that have a built-in safety factor to insure they will ignite any brand of primer under the worst of conditions. Gun owners who decide that the action is too heavy sometimes buy after-market springs that are lighter in that they are similar to the factory springs but coiled out of smaller wire. In effect they get an easier double-action trigger pull in exchange for giving up some or all of the reliability that’s built into the factory set-up.
Pistolsmiths use a combination of polishing certain internal parts combined with lighter springs that are balanced against each other to ease the action. If the springs aren't balanced you may have problems with the trigger not returning forward all of the way, or doing so too slowly. The best and most experienced 'smiths offer different options, such as a “street package†designed for defensive weapons vs. a “competition package†where the spring’s tensions are reduced below those of a street package.
If you plan to use your revolver as a weapon it would be most advisable to have any action work be done by a professional. On the other hand if it’s role in life is nothing more then target shooting or plinking you may choose to experiment with the springs with a clear understanding that if you go too far light hammer hits will result in misfires and a reduction in accuracy relative to uneven primer ignition (so-called “hangfiresâ€).
Pistolsmiths use a combination of polishing certain internal parts combined with lighter springs that are balanced against each other to ease the action. If the springs aren't balanced you may have problems with the trigger not returning forward all of the way, or doing so too slowly. The best and most experienced 'smiths offer different options, such as a “street package†designed for defensive weapons vs. a “competition package†where the spring’s tensions are reduced below those of a street package.
If you plan to use your revolver as a weapon it would be most advisable to have any action work be done by a professional. On the other hand if it’s role in life is nothing more then target shooting or plinking you may choose to experiment with the springs with a clear understanding that if you go too far light hammer hits will result in misfires and a reduction in accuracy relative to uneven primer ignition (so-called “hangfiresâ€).
4thHorseman
Member
I agree with Old Fluff.
I might add this, I have two S&W's , an L and a K frame that I have used them in.
I dislike both of them so much, I removed the Wolff springs and put back the original springs.
The arched main spring (lack of proper term) felt terrible and interferred with the rebound slide movement on the K frame (it rubbed), and the return spring prevented the K frame trigger from returning all the way. It was only one pound lighter.
Do your trigger work, but I recommend the original springs for defense.
I might add this, I have two S&W's , an L and a K frame that I have used them in.
I dislike both of them so much, I removed the Wolff springs and put back the original springs.
The arched main spring (lack of proper term) felt terrible and interferred with the rebound slide movement on the K frame (it rubbed), and the return spring prevented the K frame trigger from returning all the way. It was only one pound lighter.
Do your trigger work, but I recommend the original springs for defense.
Standing Wolf
Member in memoriam
I've used Wolff springs for years, and will continue to do so.
Not all reduced power springs work in all firearms.
If you're going to replace springs in a carry gun, be sure to test it, test it harder, and test it some more before you stake your life on it.
Not all reduced power springs work in all firearms.
If you're going to replace springs in a carry gun, be sure to test it, test it harder, and test it some more before you stake your life on it.
Ala Dan
Member in memoriam
I've got WOLFF spring's (main spring and 13 lb.
trigger return spring) in my S&W 6" 686-5. I've
had absolutely NO problems with them; and
will also continue to use them in firearms that
I own.
Best Wishes,
Ala Dan, N.R.A. Life Member
trigger return spring) in my S&W 6" 686-5. I've
had absolutely NO problems with them; and
will also continue to use them in firearms that
I own.
Best Wishes,
Ala Dan, N.R.A. Life Member
I'm in the process of re-springing my 625 and maybe 325 with Wolff's power rib mainsprings. I went ahead and got about 20 flavors of return springs, hoping to run my 625 for games with a reduced power main not fully screwed down and an 11lb return. We'll see. Big key here is an extended firing pin too, I got several from Cylinder & Slide, now I just need time to put it all together. Coupled with a good polish I'm heading for a sweet trigger I think.
Brad Johnson
Member
I've helped respring at least a half-dozen GP100s and SP101s. The 10lb mainspring is the lightest I've been able to use and still get reliable ignition.
Most of the trigger pull weight is due to the overly aggressive trigger return spring. Just changing this out for the Wolff unit makes a ton of difference in the trigger feel. One caution, most of the Rugers that I've done this on required the trigger group mating surfaces to be polished to get reliable trigger reset. It's not a problem, but there are a lot of wierd shaped itty bitty parts in the trigger group-including a couple of springs that have a nasty habit of flying off into the worst possible places. Be sure to take careful notes the first couple of times you take it apart. Most definitely do NOT do it in an area where it's hard to spot tiny parts as they will drop/fly off into the darndest places.
Brad
Most of the trigger pull weight is due to the overly aggressive trigger return spring. Just changing this out for the Wolff unit makes a ton of difference in the trigger feel. One caution, most of the Rugers that I've done this on required the trigger group mating surfaces to be polished to get reliable trigger reset. It's not a problem, but there are a lot of wierd shaped itty bitty parts in the trigger group-including a couple of springs that have a nasty habit of flying off into the worst possible places. Be sure to take careful notes the first couple of times you take it apart. Most definitely do NOT do it in an area where it's hard to spot tiny parts as they will drop/fly off into the darndest places.
Brad
JNewell
Member
I have had bad experiences with reduced power springs in several revolvers and won't use them any more.
Brad's point about trigger reset is important. Whether you're competing or using the revolver for SD, a positive reset is critical. He's lightening the reset spring but taking care to polish parts to reduce friction so the lighter spring will work. If you only replace the spring, you may not get dependable results.
Brad's point about trigger reset is important. Whether you're competing or using the revolver for SD, a positive reset is critical. He's lightening the reset spring but taking care to polish parts to reduce friction so the lighter spring will work. If you only replace the spring, you may not get dependable results.
Stainz
Member
Wolff will tell you - their springs aren't for every gun - or everyone. A 625 destined to fire moonclipped rounds needs to whack pretty hard as it has the added slop of moonclipped rounds to contend with, thus the stock OEM hammer spring is best, with the reduced one useable reliably only with Federal primers. The trigger return spring change affects both the DA and, slightly, the SA pull - but in a competition gun, it can slow down your trigger's return... again, in a 625 destined for competition, the OEM's are best.
My experience with a Ruger DA spring change was my .454 SRH - the same lockwork as the GP-100. With the heaviest replacement springs in the 'kit', I still experienced the most un-nerving sound... a click when I expected a .454 boom! Back to OEM's there. I also leave the OEM springs in my S&W 2" 10, 3" 65, and 2.5" 296 - they are CCW's or for home defense. They will remain 'stock' - and fed with only commercial ammo - for both legal reasons and assurance that they will 'work' reliably when needed. My other 'fun' and 'plinker' revolvers, except for my Redhawk and Ruger SA's, have Wolff springs.
The greatest improvement in a Ruger or an S&W can be had for just a little work. If you ask a decent 'smith what an action job does, he will tell you it replicates a lot of firing... so why not do it yourself? Seriously, blasting the gunk & dirt from a new or like-new S&W (or Ruger) , followed by some oil and a lot of dry-firing (1,000+ - use snap caps if you must.), and a reclean and light lube, and you, too, will have a 'decent' trigger! Seriously, try it - you will be amazed. The beauty is that the wear parts are 'wearing in' in the proper geometry - and in proper relation to each other. I do this before I fire a new Ruger or S&W - I liked my Redhawk so well after this that I never altered it's spring... the S&W's fun pieces all got a reduced power hammer spring, as I reload now... and use solely Federal primers. I have seven '01 or newer S&W's, all bought new, I've treated in that manner - with at least reduced power hammer springs - and they are super.
Another great Wolff spring... a 50% STIFFER spring for my Marlin Camp 45. It seems that Marlin used the same recoil components, and same mass bolt, in their neat 9mm and .45ACP carbines, despite the 50% greater momentum and KE of the basic .45ACP ball ammo... the result before the spring was often a cracked stock. I changed mine, a new safe-queen bought over a year ago, and have had no problems of any kind... and, I still have the original stock.
Stainz
My experience with a Ruger DA spring change was my .454 SRH - the same lockwork as the GP-100. With the heaviest replacement springs in the 'kit', I still experienced the most un-nerving sound... a click when I expected a .454 boom! Back to OEM's there. I also leave the OEM springs in my S&W 2" 10, 3" 65, and 2.5" 296 - they are CCW's or for home defense. They will remain 'stock' - and fed with only commercial ammo - for both legal reasons and assurance that they will 'work' reliably when needed. My other 'fun' and 'plinker' revolvers, except for my Redhawk and Ruger SA's, have Wolff springs.
The greatest improvement in a Ruger or an S&W can be had for just a little work. If you ask a decent 'smith what an action job does, he will tell you it replicates a lot of firing... so why not do it yourself? Seriously, blasting the gunk & dirt from a new or like-new S&W (or Ruger) , followed by some oil and a lot of dry-firing (1,000+ - use snap caps if you must.), and a reclean and light lube, and you, too, will have a 'decent' trigger! Seriously, try it - you will be amazed. The beauty is that the wear parts are 'wearing in' in the proper geometry - and in proper relation to each other. I do this before I fire a new Ruger or S&W - I liked my Redhawk so well after this that I never altered it's spring... the S&W's fun pieces all got a reduced power hammer spring, as I reload now... and use solely Federal primers. I have seven '01 or newer S&W's, all bought new, I've treated in that manner - with at least reduced power hammer springs - and they are super.
Another great Wolff spring... a 50% STIFFER spring for my Marlin Camp 45. It seems that Marlin used the same recoil components, and same mass bolt, in their neat 9mm and .45ACP carbines, despite the 50% greater momentum and KE of the basic .45ACP ball ammo... the result before the spring was often a cracked stock. I changed mine, a new safe-queen bought over a year ago, and have had no problems of any kind... and, I still have the original stock.
Stainz
What most people don't know is that changing the springs to lighter ones does a lot less in getting a smooth light feeling action than a proper action job with stock springs and 110% reliability. If they were to think about it they would realize the springs are not causing the stacking and grittyness and hitching that make a gun hard to shoot well. A 14 pound DA that is SMOOTH is easily shot better than a 9 pound DA with a hitch in it. Sure the lighter springs that get recommended so often here lessened the apparent problems in that guys gun but it sure as heck didn't fix anything, and very probably compromised reliability.
Just popping in some springs to get a lighter pull on a service or defensive is like a band-aid applied to a dirty wound IMO, and I would not consider it. Popping those springs into a gun with a proper action job and shot for pleasure only is a real surprise, 6-7# DA as smooth as glass can be done and will fire Federal primers in most guns. Of course a properly fitted stock sprung S&W will only have an 8-9# DA that is just as smooth, and the gun will be as reliable as it can be.
Just popping in some springs to get a lighter pull on a service or defensive is like a band-aid applied to a dirty wound IMO, and I would not consider it. Popping those springs into a gun with a proper action job and shot for pleasure only is a real surprise, 6-7# DA as smooth as glass can be done and will fire Federal primers in most guns. Of course a properly fitted stock sprung S&W will only have an 8-9# DA that is just as smooth, and the gun will be as reliable as it can be.
Ala Dan
Member in memoriam
WOLFF SPRINGS (Revisited)
Just a little FYI here, as I shot my 6" Smith &
Wesson 686-5 with a WOLFF main spring and
a 13 lb recoil spring today; 150 rounds with
out any problems!
Best Wishes,
Ala Dan, N.R.A. Life Member
Just a little FYI here, as I shot my 6" Smith &
Wesson 686-5 with a WOLFF main spring and
a 13 lb recoil spring today; 150 rounds with
out any problems!
Best Wishes,
Ala Dan, N.R.A. Life Member
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