wonder wads

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you got it.

lube on the top. Fiber wad on the bottom. With the powder and explosion behind. pretty much gives a good seal and cleans all fouling out of the barrel. Fouling that is caused by the bullet. Not the powder. Ever since i started doing this. Lead in the barrel is non existant. I even use these in cartridges.
 
did you often get leading if you didnt lube enough.... or had too hot of a load for soft lead... pretty good idea though... jus got a raise an more hours at the job so i plan on gettin a chrony an ill put some of those fiber wads in the order too with the extra money. btw i just made up about 100 lube pills, takes no time at all, and with a little baby powder on them in an altoids can i imagine it would make for quite a funny prank
 
first time i shot a whole bunch of rounds through one of my guns i put some hot soapy water through the barrel. I then used a clean dry patch and pushed it through the barrel very tightly. When i looked at the patch carefully there were traces of lead on the patch careful inspection of the barrel showed some small signs around the rifleing of the barrel. After that is when i started using the fiber wads and lubing on the top as well. I did the same thing. However now i only get fired black powder residue. The rifeling looks good sharp edges not any leading i have been using it ever since. weather loaded heavy or not. No problems using this way. Makes for a very consistant load after many shots. Same time assures i can go longer without having to stop to clean.
 
Nope i wish i did. Happens all the time. Though i once thought that if i took a 1/8 inch piece of felt and siliconed it in between the chambers on the cylinder what would the powder residue due. On colts it always seems to gather up on the front of the arbor shaft. Would even a small piece of sheet metal on the cylinder between the chamber and the arbor deflect the powder residue to go outword rather than downward. Those are the things that would be neat to try. Another thing i once thought of was a small piece of sheet metal at the top right of the hammer and cylinder. After you fired the revolver and pulled back the hammer if a piece of caps was sticking out it would deflect off the piece of sheet metal outward rather than go around the cylinder. Those are the things we should be looking into. I once heard the cylinder thing was looked into. Someone posted a patent on changing or adding something to a colt to deflect the spent caps. However you gotta think that right when everyone started to figure these guns out. They changed to cartridge guns and made the c&b a part of history.
 
so that leaves plenty to tinker with... are the ruger OA any better far as cylinder not binding? i think they quit makin them but they have improvements off rem 1858...on a black hawk frame i think... might be good to look an see if they overcame these problems at all. i would like too look into improving cap deflecting w/out ruining the guns beauty though. for now i just aim for the sky between shots
 
Colt Cylinder bind

I have a'51 colt .44 I use vaseline on the cylinder pin, and fired as many as 30 shots, and have no bind up problems. I keep hearing that you should not use any petroleum product in a BP gun. Maybe vaseline has a different composition or something, but it does work, and rinses off readily with the hot water clean up process. I have also used it for for years now on breach plugs as my anti-seize, and have no problems with gum up.
 
Shultzhaus, I don't think you can argue with results. I have also heard of guys using Vasoline for over the ball lube. I had problems with rust after cleaning my black powder guns when i lube with Bore Butter or bristol. I started hoseing them down with W-D40 after cleaning then wipe them down good with a dry rag then i apply Bore Butter. No more rust problums.

Mike
 
neither Vaseline or paraffin wax have the negative effects generally associated with petroleum based products. normally i use some of the bore butter i have left and shooting 25-30g 777 can go like you say 30- most often about 50 shots though, try it. also if you just take the cylinder out an wipe the cylinder pin off with a wet q tip or two and put some more bore butter on. only takes a sec and really helps.
 
Hornady one shot lube. After i clean my guns i spray the outsides with them. Even the insides of the cylinders and barrel just one good coat. I have found that Hornady lube dries and when it does it does a pretty good job of protecting the gun.
 
I load my 58 on a bench loader every other time i load a cylinder i use a q-tip for a cleaning rod. I push a small patch with Go Joe hand cleaner on it though the cylinder pin hole to clean it. I also clean the pin with hand cleaner and relube with bore butter.

If you feel your gun is leading up load a few target loads with grits for filler cleans the barrel right up.

Mike
 
Petrolatum (Vaseline), paraffin waxes (micro-crystalline paraffin waxes) and mineral oil all appear to be related substances.

Since they are all derived from petroleum, the fact that they don't react negatively with black powder is a characteristic that they all share.
Bore butter/wonder lube contains these and now we know that Vaseline does too and is safe to use.

Petroleum jelly, petrolatum or soft paraffin [1] is a semi-solid mixture of hydrocarbons (with carbon numbers mainly higher than 25)...

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Petrolatum
Click to expand...

Mineral oil or liquid petrolatum is a by-product in the distillation of petroleum to produce gasoline. It is a transparent, colorless oil composed mainly of alkanes (typically 15 to 40 carbons) [1] and cyclic paraffins, related to white petrolatum.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mineral_oil
Click to expand...

Microcrystalline waxes are a type of wax produced by de-oiling petrolatum,
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Microcrystalline_wax
Click to expand...
 
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