Wood blocks for mounting reloading gear
- Thread starter dak0ta
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wild willy
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Are you using c-clamps.The wood doesn't need to be real thick if you use C-clamps big enough to clamp tight against the press. I use 2x10 for my presses for priming tools and trimmers 3/4 inch plywood
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dak0ta
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Yup I'll be using C-clamps. Ok, and what kind of screws, nuts, washers do I need to lock down a Rock Chucker and all the stuff that comes in the kit. Balance, Powder measure, Lee Zip trim.
Should I mount each individual item onto a separate block or is sharing ok?
Is ordinary plywood good enough?
Should I mount each individual item onto a separate block or is sharing ok?
Is ordinary plywood good enough?
I like them all separate, so I can move them around when I need/want. It depends on your work area and how much space you have. I used the biggest bolts that would fit in the holes of my presses. For Lee press, I think that may be 5/16 bolts, maybe 3/8, I don't remember. For the press itself, I'd lean more towards the 2x material, 2x6, 2x8, whatever. You'll want to countersink or counterbore the holes on the bottom side. Not sure 3/4 ply will be quite hefty enough. Some may use it... I don't know.
ReloaderFred
Member
I use 10" squares of 3/4" plywood, with 3/4" particle board laminated to the top, since I had plenty of both when I made them up. I recess the bottoms for bolt heads in the appropriate places, which gives a smooth underside, but the strength of the full size bolts. I use the biggest washer for the bolt size I can find for the underside, so the bolt won't pull through the plywood.
I use expandable "C" Clamps for attaching to my bench. I keep all my lubrisizers mounted this way, plus other tools that aren't permanently attached to my benches.
Hope this helps.
Fred
I use expandable "C" Clamps for attaching to my bench. I keep all my lubrisizers mounted this way, plus other tools that aren't permanently attached to my benches.
Hope this helps.
Fred
My first attempt was using 2x12 lumber cut into 12" sections. This worked ok, but I was never satisfied with the flatness since I don't have a belt sander or planer that large. I finally settled on 2 12x12" pieces of 3/4" ply laminated together. Each of these base plates has 1/2" holes drilled in four corners which match up with holes of the same dimensions on my benches. Why 12x12"? I have a number of presses and picked the smallest baseplate size where the press, accessories and handles would be within the footprint of the baseplate.
The system works for my needs, but if you want to go for the ultimate in space savings and flexibility then check out some t-rails. Here is a link that should give you some inspiration http://ultimatereloader.com/2011/03/27/the-new-reloading-bench-system-at-ultimate-reloader/
The system works for my needs, but if you want to go for the ultimate in space savings and flexibility then check out some t-rails. Here is a link that should give you some inspiration http://ultimatereloader.com/2011/03/27/the-new-reloading-bench-system-at-ultimate-reloader/
Every person's needs and situation is different, there's no way you can get a solid answer or solution on a forum. You'll pretty much have to figure it out on the fly, which isn't hard. You may end up trying several things before you're happy.
In my situation, I needed extra height, so I cut two pieces of 2x12, glued and screwd them together to make a 3" riser, then mounted it to my bench with four 3/8" carriage bolts. I then mounted my press to that with lag screws. Ugly, but very solid and works well.
In my situation, I needed extra height, so I cut two pieces of 2x12, glued and screwd them together to make a 3" riser, then mounted it to my bench with four 3/8" carriage bolts. I then mounted my press to that with lag screws. Ugly, but very solid and works well.
Lost Sheep
Member
Welcome to reloading and thanks for asking our advice.
I mounted my RockChucker on the end of a 2x6.
I drilled holes to fit the hole pattern. I countersunk the underside so the heads of the carriage bolts would not stick out past the surface of the wood. Because of the countersink, the actual wood holding the press was really only about an inch thick
Washers and wing nuts allow me to mount and dismount the press from the board easily.
I used to stick the other end of the 2x6 into the drawer of an end table. Close the drawer as far as it would go and the press stayed put pretty well and was inclined back at a convenient angle. Sometimes, I just strapped the 2x6 to the top of the table (properly padded with a towel or newspaper to avoid scratches).
Since the end table was not that heavy, I generally steadied the press with my left hand as I worked the handle with my right.
Lost Sheep
I mounted my RockChucker on the end of a 2x6.
I drilled holes to fit the hole pattern. I countersunk the underside so the heads of the carriage bolts would not stick out past the surface of the wood. Because of the countersink, the actual wood holding the press was really only about an inch thick
Washers and wing nuts allow me to mount and dismount the press from the board easily.
I used to stick the other end of the 2x6 into the drawer of an end table. Close the drawer as far as it would go and the press stayed put pretty well and was inclined back at a convenient angle. Sometimes, I just strapped the 2x6 to the top of the table (properly padded with a towel or newspaper to avoid scratches).
Since the end table was not that heavy, I generally steadied the press with my left hand as I worked the handle with my right.
Lost Sheep
gamestalker
member
I have all but one time mounted mine using C-clamps. I quickly realized just how nice it is to be able to move things around quickly without having to hassle with removing bolts.
I clamp directly to my hard wood table top. I have a very large oak table that I have clamped another very large and thick mahogany table top to. I did it like this to add more space to my work areas, and to add more weight so it nothing will wobble or flex . My entire bench probably weighs 250 lbs. or more.
GS
I clamp directly to my hard wood table top. I have a very large oak table that I have clamped another very large and thick mahogany table top to. I did it like this to add more space to my work areas, and to add more weight so it nothing will wobble or flex . My entire bench probably weighs 250 lbs. or more.
GS
1SOW
Member
My depriming-sizing press is mounted on a treated 2x10 and clamped to a B&D folding woodworking table.
Steady as a rock
Steady as a rock
Centurian22
Member
I mounted my LCT to a stand alone.... stand. Fits in a closet, corner or up against a wall when I'm done and is very stable and sturdy even when loading my .308 from the couch. Not the best picture but you can get the idea.
Made from repurposed 2x3's, screws and a doubled up piece of 1/2" plywood (to make it 1" thick).
Made from repurposed 2x3's, screws and a doubled up piece of 1/2" plywood (to make it 1" thick).
I mount my presses with lag bolts to the bench so if I need to move them all I have to do is unscrew the lag. The trimer is mounted to a 2x4 and the swager is mounted to 2 1x2's stacked together they then get clamped to the bench when needed. My powder measure is on a stand that just gets clamped down when used.
Everyone says that a press needs to be bolted down but I have found that 1/4" x 3 or 4 inch lag bolts ran through the bench into a 2x4 backer under the bench holds the press just fine and I have leaned on the old Rock Chucker hard a few times. My LnL AP is bolted down the same way. The bullet lube sizer and shotgun presses just get screwed down with deck screws and after 10 years I have never had a press work lose.
Everyone says that a press needs to be bolted down but I have found that 1/4" x 3 or 4 inch lag bolts ran through the bench into a 2x4 backer under the bench holds the press just fine and I have leaned on the old Rock Chucker hard a few times. My LnL AP is bolted down the same way. The bullet lube sizer and shotgun presses just get screwed down with deck screws and after 10 years I have never had a press work lose.
Blue68f100
Member
My portable set up uses T-Nuts that are counter sunk to secure the press, so it does not get in the kitchen table. The top is made of two 3/4" plywood glued and screwed together, with a protective pad (paper will do) between the top and press top if your doing this on some fine furniture. When you setup place the press over a table leg if you can to minimize load on the top. Then secure the with C-clamps at back and front and should be good to go.
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