Wood grip maintenance questions

[Collector0311]

I carry a S&W 637pc and am starting to have the finish dimple and peel a bit on the body side (left side) wood grip.
Have any of you experienced this issue? What did you do to remedy the problem?
I'm looking at refinishing options but don't have much experience with what types hold up better with some sweat and carry wear.
I can hear someone now "Simple, don't carry a wood gripped weapon"
Well, I'm gonna! And the maintenance doesn't bother me enough to change my carry.
Any tips/experience appreciated!

 

[rcmodel]

Normally, I would suggest a very light application of Birchwood - Casey Tru-Oil, hand rubbed into the existing finish.

But the photo looks like the old finish (some sort of lacquer or polyester probably) is bubbling up from the wood.

And there is nothing you can put on it that will fix that, short of stripping the old finish and refinishing them.

rc

 

[CraigC]

It's a laminate and I'm surprised it even has a finish on it. They are usually just polished. I would suggest just stripping the old finish and polishing them.

 

[Collector0311]

This begs another question, as I'm only experienced in stripping and finishing flat wood, this has an awkward checkered weave to it.
How would I strip it properly without rounding the edges of the checkering?

 

[CraigC]

I'd recommend stripping it chemically.

 

[sgt127]

If that is laminated wood, it shouldn't have a coating on it. The wood laminates are natural wood and plastic fused together. You treat it like plastic. Or micarta.

IF I knew that was laminate, I would polish it out with 0000 steel wool and buff it with a polish, like Flitz and then wax it.

 

[Zaydok Allen]

I know this isn't the answer you want, but you could order a new set from Altamont. I'm pretty sure they make those grips. Hell, they may replace or refinish them for free if they stand behind their product.

 

[Collector0311]

Thanks for the killer replies fellas, I'm looking at all different options. These are not laminate grips, they appear to be "machined" solid wood with a finish.
Please expand more on the chemical stripping process if you would, as well as application techniques for finish on a detailed wood.

 

[sgt127]

For natural wood, fill bowl with acetone, throw the grips in. Let them sit. An hour, two, overnight...use a toothbrush on the checkering. Let dry, shine up with 0000 steel wool. Finish with Tru oil, boiled linseed oil (soft flat finish) or tung oil.

I have resurrected ancient oil soaked Smith stocks.

 

[CraigC]

They are absolutely a laminate with 110% certainty.

 

[BlindJustice]

JUst a datum point, the Guy Hogue Exotic Hardwood
grips I have for my S&Ws are Checkered/Rosewood
and Cocbolo wood. GH finishes these laminates
after polishing, with carnuba wax. I wrap em in plastic
wrap if I use the Hoppes #9, or remove em.
during cleaning

R-

 

[sgt127]

They are a laminate......

I was on my iPhone. Now on a big screen, I agree. Don't do the acetone.

 

[ColtPythonElite]

Stripper will take the old finish in minutes. A toothbrush will get it out of the checkering. I would finish them in Tru Oil because it is easy to use and durable.

If you search, you can find a thread with pics where I refinished a pair of Python grips.

 

[Tony_the_tiger]

Its Dymondwood and if you sand it or otherwise attempt to manipulate it you will release formaldehyde and other gasses. Safety equipment such as a facemask and goggles would be recommended. I'd just leave it alone or buy a new pair. You could upgrade to real wood while you're at it. I used to think I was buying wood from many dealers such as Badger, Altamont, and others... then I found out it was plastic resin infused into plywood at high temperature and pressure. I was disappointed, but yours look nice. To be fair they are more impact and water resistant than real wood, but a rose by any other name ...



What we are seeing here, as in your photo, are individual pieces of plywood that have been fused with resin under pressure. A typical sized dymondwood grip piece can have over 30 pieces of plywood mashed together.

The origin of your grip is Rutland Plywood Corporation, whom sold it to someone else who made it into the grips you have now (probably Altamont) (http://www.rutply.com/products/dymondwood.html), Rutland can provide you a material data safety sheet upon request. I would exercise caution while working with it. As another poster mentioned it is contextually similar to Micarta which is resin infused cloth or other media.

Esmeralda Exotic Grips, Gemini Customs, and Craig Spegel all make high quality grips with real wood. I dare say you could not do better than those three.

 

[CraigC]

I don't care for laminates but to be fair, there's a big difference between them and construction plywood.

You can certainly do much better than those three. Herrett's (my first choice), BluMagnum, Keith Brown and Roy Fishpaw would arguably be sources of the finest DA grips available.

 

[Tony_the_tiger]

Rutland uses birch for the wood.

Species: Birch

Length and Width 31.5"(l) x 16.5"(w) or 51"(l) x 16.5"(w)

Note: All ply's are oriented with grain in the same direction; Length is measured in the grain direction and width is measured across the grain

Thickness(nominal): 1/16" - 2"

Plys per inch(after densification): Approximately 29 plys per inch

Specific Gravity: 1.18 - 1.30

As CraigC mentioned, you have a good pick of fine craftsmen and women who can work wood if that is the path you choose to go. Alot of folks here use the Dymondwood and the work of Badger is well respected. I happen to like the crimson trace grips for my j frames but others appreciate the classic lines of wood.

That is the great thing - there is no wrong answer about your firearm's stocks, it all is based on what you enjoy.

But as noted I would be careful working with the dymondwood in any type of refinishing capacity unless you are prepared to take the necessary occupational safety precautions, which Rutland could advise you on through the provision of their MSDS on the material.

 

[K1500]

Strip with an aerosol stripper and nylon brush. Refinish with an oil finish that will not bubble or peel. At least that's my plan when a set of laminated 1911 stocks I have that are doing the exact same thing.

 

[Zaydok Allen]

Nill grips are great as well. I put a set on my 686 PC and they are top notch quality.

 

[Zaydok Allen]

Hmmm, looked at Keith Brown's page...... me thinks the 686 PC may get another pair of shoes.

 

[rcmodel]

My experience with Dymondwood when making knife scales is, they don't need to be finished at all.

Just like Micarta, if you buff them to a high shine, they will stay that way forever.

There is enough epoxy in the laminate to buff to a high shine using common buffing wheels.

As for being toxic?
No so I noticed.
Use a dust mask and you will be fine.

Dymondwood is nowhere near as nasty / deadly as a lot of tropical hardwoods I have used.
In fact, it is better to work with then G-10 and Micarta.




rc