brucets11
Member
I shoot SASS matches with New Model Vaqueros. I've got a pair that I use for 38s and a pair for 45s. Nice guns. As for caliber, consider 44-40s if you might shoot blackpowder and match the caliber to your rifle.
Would you buy your SAA again or a different make, caliber, model?
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OK ... I think we're making progress here ...
... it seems that from reading all of the excellent posts for about the 10th time now I should buy a pair of Vaqueros in .38 if I plan on being competitive at CAS and I plan on shooting them on a regular basis. If I don't shoot them much or don't enjoy CAS (is that possible?) then I'd be better off buying something that I enjoy looking at more than Vaqueros, shoot occasionally and could possibly be an heirloom or investment. So would it make sense to show up to a CAS event for the first time with a pair of nickel plated USFA SAA revolvers in 44-40 with 5-1/2" barrels and stag stocks? I could start out with those and then pick up a pair of Vaqueros a year from now.
... it seems that from reading all of the excellent posts for about the 10th time now I should buy a pair of Vaqueros in .38 if I plan on being competitive at CAS and I plan on shooting them on a regular basis. If I don't shoot them much or don't enjoy CAS (is that possible?) then I'd be better off buying something that I enjoy looking at more than Vaqueros, shoot occasionally and could possibly be an heirloom or investment. So would it make sense to show up to a CAS event for the first time with a pair of nickel plated USFA SAA revolvers in 44-40 with 5-1/2" barrels and stag stocks? I could start out with those and then pick up a pair of Vaqueros a year from now.
The only people I have seen not enjoy CAS are the ones that have a chip on their shoulder, don't want to shoot is a social environment or get discouraged because they made a mistake or got smoked by someone 30 years older than them.
How could you go wrong? Great guns, just pricey to start and pricey to shoot unless you reload. But I think it sounds like you have that covered.
Keep in mind, buying the guns is just one thing. You need a set of leather and at least a hat too. Not sure what your budget is but leather can set you back a bit.
Now, if you show up with USFA SAA revolvers in 44-40 with 5-1/2" barrels and stag stocks holstered in Uncle Mike's holsters and an electricians belt yer gonna be made fun of
I've been a cowboy action shooter for many years. I still shoot two or three matches each month. I've played with, shot and loved single action revolvers for sixty years. And I have been inside of about everything on the market, past or present. I won't call myself an expert on single actions, but I am no novice either.
First regarding caliber, if money for ammo is not a consideration, then .45 Colt is a wonderful caliber. But even if you reload, it will cost about twice as much to shoot .45 as it will cost to shoot .38 special. How much you shoot or plan to shoot also comes into play. I know a lot of guys who shoot around 1000 rnds per month. For them the savings are very significant. While it is very satisfying to shoot normal strength .45 loads, you should know that you will be shooting against others with smaller calibers and lighter loads. Because of recoil you will never shoot as rapidly as these fellows. So if winning is important to you, buy .38/357 revolvers.
Regarding revolver choices, here is a brief overview.
The STI is a wonderful revolver. If you can afford a pair of them (you'll need two) then by all means, get them.
Colts are not as pricy as the STI. I have several sets of them. The current production Colts are of excellent quality, but they will still need a light action job. The big attraction to me is that they are Colts, and that matters to me. However a good clone can be made to shoot just as well and the STI a bit better perhaps.
The USFA's are excellent clones. Fundamentally they are just as good as Colts, but they aren't Colts. However, if I wanted a pair of excellent cowboy guns at an affordable price, I would go to Longhunter Supply and order a set of USFA Rodeo revolvers complete with his action jobs. For the money they are an outstanding value and they will be nigh perfect when you receive them. The only thing I don't like about them is the brushed finish, blue and nickel.
For a little less money, Longhunter will sell you a pair of tuned Ruger New model Vacqueros. They will serve you admirably. I don't shoot them because they are modern guns in my view. But they are good guns and if you aren't into the history aspect, you will be very happy with them.
I am very partial to the Great Western II revolvers sold by EMF. Their parts are generally interchangable with Colt parts, and they are well made guns. They should be quite adequate right out of the box.
There isn't a thing wrong with the Uberti guns from various distributors. All but their "special" models such as the "Evil Roy's and Smokewagons, will require an action job for optimal performance, but they will be slick and dead dependable once they are tuned. My only complaint is that the case hardened finish should have a little more color.
You will note that I have mentioned getting your revolvers tuned several times. This serves two functions. First, because the revolver will feel so slick and will be so much easier to manipulate, you will shoot it better. Second, you will put less wear on your guns. Friction will be minimized. I shoot a pair of revolvers that are over 100 years old. They are as good as the day they left the Colt factory, maybe better!
There is no truth to the myth that Colt and clone revolvers are subject to breakage. Of course, if you don't know how to handle them or if you abuse them, they will be less dependable. But they rarely break. I will grant that I have to replace a hand spring or a trigger bolt spring in a heavily used gun every few years. That costs me less than $5.00 and about ten minutes of my time. And any fool can make these replacements in 15 minutes. Most serious competitors simply replace these springs annually so the problem never comes up, and these guys shoot tens of thousands of rounds each year.
Rugers use all coil springs. They seem to never fail. But even the Ruger benefits greatly from tuning.
Of all the guns mentioned, STI is the only one that isn't going to need a tune up because of the absolute precision of their machining. The Uberti Smokewagon and the Evil Roy models as well as the Great Western II revolvers are tuned by the distributors prior to shipping.
Regarding barrel length, it really doesn't matter. I routinely shoot them all. However, and this is just a personal thing, I find that uniformly across all barrel lengths, the .45, 44-40, .44 spec. and .38-40 have slightly better balance that the .38/.357. I think the shorter 4.75" barrel offers the best balance in .38 caliber. In the larger calibers, the SA revolvers balance well with all three standard lengths.
In summary, even if you buy the cheapest set of SA revolvers that you can find, they are going to perform quite well with a good action job. I am partial to Colts, but you don't have to buy Colts to get a fine revolver.
I can't comment on the Beretta and Taurus revolvers as I have no long term experience with them.
First regarding caliber, if money for ammo is not a consideration, then .45 Colt is a wonderful caliber. But even if you reload, it will cost about twice as much to shoot .45 as it will cost to shoot .38 special. How much you shoot or plan to shoot also comes into play. I know a lot of guys who shoot around 1000 rnds per month. For them the savings are very significant. While it is very satisfying to shoot normal strength .45 loads, you should know that you will be shooting against others with smaller calibers and lighter loads. Because of recoil you will never shoot as rapidly as these fellows. So if winning is important to you, buy .38/357 revolvers.
Regarding revolver choices, here is a brief overview.
The STI is a wonderful revolver. If you can afford a pair of them (you'll need two) then by all means, get them.
Colts are not as pricy as the STI. I have several sets of them. The current production Colts are of excellent quality, but they will still need a light action job. The big attraction to me is that they are Colts, and that matters to me. However a good clone can be made to shoot just as well and the STI a bit better perhaps.
The USFA's are excellent clones. Fundamentally they are just as good as Colts, but they aren't Colts. However, if I wanted a pair of excellent cowboy guns at an affordable price, I would go to Longhunter Supply and order a set of USFA Rodeo revolvers complete with his action jobs. For the money they are an outstanding value and they will be nigh perfect when you receive them. The only thing I don't like about them is the brushed finish, blue and nickel.
For a little less money, Longhunter will sell you a pair of tuned Ruger New model Vacqueros. They will serve you admirably. I don't shoot them because they are modern guns in my view. But they are good guns and if you aren't into the history aspect, you will be very happy with them.
I am very partial to the Great Western II revolvers sold by EMF. Their parts are generally interchangable with Colt parts, and they are well made guns. They should be quite adequate right out of the box.
There isn't a thing wrong with the Uberti guns from various distributors. All but their "special" models such as the "Evil Roy's and Smokewagons, will require an action job for optimal performance, but they will be slick and dead dependable once they are tuned. My only complaint is that the case hardened finish should have a little more color.
You will note that I have mentioned getting your revolvers tuned several times. This serves two functions. First, because the revolver will feel so slick and will be so much easier to manipulate, you will shoot it better. Second, you will put less wear on your guns. Friction will be minimized. I shoot a pair of revolvers that are over 100 years old. They are as good as the day they left the Colt factory, maybe better!
There is no truth to the myth that Colt and clone revolvers are subject to breakage. Of course, if you don't know how to handle them or if you abuse them, they will be less dependable. But they rarely break. I will grant that I have to replace a hand spring or a trigger bolt spring in a heavily used gun every few years. That costs me less than $5.00 and about ten minutes of my time. And any fool can make these replacements in 15 minutes. Most serious competitors simply replace these springs annually so the problem never comes up, and these guys shoot tens of thousands of rounds each year.
Rugers use all coil springs. They seem to never fail. But even the Ruger benefits greatly from tuning.
Of all the guns mentioned, STI is the only one that isn't going to need a tune up because of the absolute precision of their machining. The Uberti Smokewagon and the Evil Roy models as well as the Great Western II revolvers are tuned by the distributors prior to shipping.
Regarding barrel length, it really doesn't matter. I routinely shoot them all. However, and this is just a personal thing, I find that uniformly across all barrel lengths, the .45, 44-40, .44 spec. and .38-40 have slightly better balance that the .38/.357. I think the shorter 4.75" barrel offers the best balance in .38 caliber. In the larger calibers, the SA revolvers balance well with all three standard lengths.
In summary, even if you buy the cheapest set of SA revolvers that you can find, they are going to perform quite well with a good action job. I am partial to Colts, but you don't have to buy Colts to get a fine revolver.
I can't comment on the Beretta and Taurus revolvers as I have no long term experience with them.
The USFA Rodeo II from Long Hunter is a NICE package!!
Hmmm .... thanks owlhoot for that outstanding post which is packed full of excellent information ... I really appreciate it.
You're not kidding ... I was just checking out the holsters on Long Hunter's web site and they can be as much or more than a Vaquero!
I've never competed in a CAS event but it seems to me that there should be some form of handicap system for those shooting 44/45 calibers or perhaps a different class. This is probably heresy to some but it's a pity that shooters have to shoot 38s to be competitive.
Hmmm .... thanks owlhoot for that outstanding post which is packed full of excellent information ... I really appreciate it.
You're not kidding ... I was just checking out the holsters on Long Hunter's web site and they can be as much or more than a Vaquero!
I've never competed in a CAS event but it seems to me that there should be some form of handicap system for those shooting 44/45 calibers or perhaps a different class. This is probably heresy to some but it's a pity that shooters have to shoot 38s to be competitive.
nero45acp
Member
I own:
"Longhunter" Rodeo 4-3/4" .38 Special
Uberti 1890 Police .357 Magnum
Cimarron Thunderer SS 4-3/4" .357 Magnum
Ruger New Vaquero SS 4-3/4" .357 Magnum
I like them all, but if I could turn back the clock I'd still buy the New Vaquero, but instead of buying the others I'd buy a NIB Colt SAA blue/CH 4-3/4" .357 Magnum, with Colt's custom shop 2 piece walnut grips with Colt medallions. In fact, that's likely where next year's tax return is going....
*I don't shoot SASS, but if I did I'd use Ruger's New Vaquero.*
nero
"Longhunter" Rodeo 4-3/4" .38 Special
Uberti 1890 Police .357 Magnum
Cimarron Thunderer SS 4-3/4" .357 Magnum
Ruger New Vaquero SS 4-3/4" .357 Magnum
I like them all, but if I could turn back the clock I'd still buy the New Vaquero, but instead of buying the others I'd buy a NIB Colt SAA blue/CH 4-3/4" .357 Magnum, with Colt's custom shop 2 piece walnut grips with Colt medallions. In fact, that's likely where next year's tax return is going....
*I don't shoot SASS, but if I did I'd use Ruger's New Vaquero.*
nero
RugerBob
Member
Before I got into CAS I had a blackhawk 7 1/2" 45LC. When I joined SASS I bought a Vaquero 7 1/2" in like caliber with my blackhawk and rifle. I like them both and would buy them again. I wish I had had the chance at shooting the 5 1/2" . If so ,I may have went that way. So, for now, yes I would buy what I have again.
This is a debate that has raged long and hard and is probably not going anywhere.
There are a ton of categories in CAS that vary based on the types of gun you are shooting, the types of powder you load, your age, cap & ball pistols, the type of holster you use, which hands you shoot with and the way you dress. These categories already do a good job of making different shooters competitive.
In my experience the people who try to game the system don't always come out on top. One of my pard's shoots black powder and regularly finishes in the overall #2 or 3 spot and won the Ohio State championship last year.
Plenty of guys shooting 32's as well.
Gamers usually have more than enough misses to compensate for the added speed.
There's also something called "Spirit of the Game", although not always enforced it can be used to reign someone in who is pushing the envelope on the rules to gain an edge.
If you haven't already you should download the SASS handbook to get familiar with the categories, especially before you buy leather. You should know in advance if you want to shoot B Western, dualist or traditional because the accessories you buy will change.
I just ordered a pair of USFA Rodeos in .45LC with 5-1/2" barrels.
I'd like to thank everyone for their comments, suggestions and experience. The feedback really helped me to make a decision that I'm happy with. I ordered a pair of USFA Rodeos from Long Hunter Shooting Supply. After talking with Jim (who was really helpful) and reading owlhoot's post, I decided that a pair of Rodeos was the way to start since as cpirtle pointed out, I'll need "leather" plus a rifle and a shotgun to participate in CAS. Jim pointed out that the only difference between the Rodeo and USFA's premium SAA revolvers is the external finish i.e. the steel, internal parts etc are the same.
Jim at Long Hunter told me that the nickel finish on USFA revolvers can come off if you're not careful cleaning them so his advice was to buy the Rodeo which in his words is one of the best SAA revolvers around. He prefers the Rodeo to the Vaquero and that's what he shoots in CAS.
USFA Rodeo from Long Hunter
I ordered plain hammers since I'm not too keen on the "bling" look of the jeweled hammer. Given the savings over what I was considering before, I'm now trying to convince my wife to join me in CAS and want to order her a pair of the Rodeos in .38 probably with the 4-3/4" barrels but we'll see.
I reload for all of my rifles and handguns so I'll be ordering dies and brass this week from MidwayUSA. I still really want a pair of Colts in 44-40 so I'll keep checking ImpactGuns.
Thanks again to everyone!!
I'd like to thank everyone for their comments, suggestions and experience. The feedback really helped me to make a decision that I'm happy with. I ordered a pair of USFA Rodeos from Long Hunter Shooting Supply. After talking with Jim (who was really helpful) and reading owlhoot's post, I decided that a pair of Rodeos was the way to start since as cpirtle pointed out, I'll need "leather" plus a rifle and a shotgun to participate in CAS. Jim pointed out that the only difference between the Rodeo and USFA's premium SAA revolvers is the external finish i.e. the steel, internal parts etc are the same.
Jim at Long Hunter told me that the nickel finish on USFA revolvers can come off if you're not careful cleaning them
so his advice was to buy the Rodeo which in his words is one of the best SAA revolvers around. He prefers the Rodeo to the Vaquero and that's what he shoots in CAS.USFA Rodeo from Long Hunter
I ordered plain hammers since I'm not too keen on the "bling" look of the jeweled hammer. Given the savings over what I was considering before, I'm now trying to convince my wife to join me in CAS and want to order her a pair of the Rodeos in .38 probably with the 4-3/4" barrels but we'll see.
I reload for all of my rifles and handguns so I'll be ordering dies and brass this week from MidwayUSA. I still really want a pair of Colts in 44-40 so I'll keep checking ImpactGuns.
Thanks again to everyone!!
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I think you made a great choice. The beauty of CAS is that there are a lot of options and everyone gets to play in the toybox with what they like.
One last pointer, if you are buying lead and have not yet bought your rifle be sure to get RNFP's.
Older rifles like the 73's will not feed wadcutters. You'll be okay with a 92 or 94 but I wouldn't stock up on lead until you know for sure.
I had been shooting wadcutters for years, then this year added a 73 as my primary rifle and had to buy all new lead for it. Now I am well stocked on wadcutters for plinking as I don't like to mix and match my bullets on the loading table.
One last pointer, if you are buying lead and have not yet bought your rifle be sure to get RNFP's.
Older rifles like the 73's will not feed wadcutters. You'll be okay with a 92 or 94 but I wouldn't stock up on lead until you know for sure.
I had been shooting wadcutters for years, then this year added a 73 as my primary rifle and had to buy all new lead for it. Now I am well stocked on wadcutters for plinking as I don't like to mix and match my bullets on the loading table.
Hawk
Member
I love it when a plan comes together.
I just checked my stash and I have about 1500 SWCs in .45 that I shoot in my SIG 220. I haven't bought a rifle yet but was thinking about the Marlin 1894 Cowboy in 44 mag/44 spl although it's available in 45LC too (that's probably another thread altogether). I have less than no idea about a shotgun!
Marlin 1894 Cowboy
cpirtle, any advice on "leather"? Long Hunter has some nice looking stuff available. I've never even been to a CAS event but I downloaded the SASS manual and have looked through it (I'll need to go through it more thoroughly I know). I like the sound of the duelist and gunfighter classes and I'm thinking about an alias.
Me too!!
I'll definitely post some photos once the Rodeos get here. Jim is confident that he'll mail them out to me next week but it's going to be about a month or more before I have them in my hands due to local licensing laws.gtmerkley
member
gtmerkley's DAD
45 Vaquero ("old new model"), It took the place of my 1849 36 cal. colt pocket pistol ( yes 36 not 32 ) when black powder got hard to get. The Ruger with a 4.3/4" barrel is what I carry for farm work and is a good gun but not as accurate as the 49
45 Vaquero ("old new model"), It took the place of my 1849 36 cal. colt pocket pistol ( yes 36 not 32 ) when black powder got hard to get. The Ruger with a 4.3/4" barrel is what I carry for farm work and is a good gun but not as accurate as the 49
zxcvbob
Member
.357 Taurus Gaucho, in polished stainless steel. It's real pretty, but I wouldn't buy another one.
I'd probably get a New Vaquero, or one of them ugly Cabela's Millenniums. I'd also check out the Beretta Stampedes.
I'd probably get a New Vaquero, or one of them ugly Cabela's Millenniums. I'd also check out the Beretta Stampedes.
Wish I could help you on the leather but I made all of my own so I can't speak first hand about anyone specific.
If you want to get a nice classy basic rig Midway has several Ross Leather cowboy holsters and belts on sale. For the money they look like an excellent value and they are fully lined to boot. Get the whole rig for under $200.
If you want to church them up a bit you can pick up a couple of screw back concho's for the holster loops and/or belt.
I have one of the Marlin 1894's .38 Cowboy Special's they made for a couple of years. Shot my first few seasons with it until I switched to the 73. Marlin's are a great choice. Unless you are going for nostalgia stay away from the Winchesters, they have an extremely long stroke on the action.
Not too many choices on the shotgun. Double barrel that extracts only (no eject) or a Winchester 97 (non-trench model). Stoeger is far away the favorite of the doubles over the Remington Spartan and they are fairly inexpensive. See a lot of old Stevens too. I keep a Stoeger coach gun and an original (1903 mfg) Winchester 97 in my cart for matches. The 97 is my primary.
You really should plan to go watch a match and talk to the cowboys. Let them know you are interested in starting up and you will probably have guys lining up to let you try out their guns
I hate to keep doing this to you but you need a cart of some sort as well. For your first couple of matches you can probably pair up with someone and share their cart. I made a new one over the winter, it'll give you an idea of how your gear should be transported while at the match.
If you want to get a nice classy basic rig Midway has several Ross Leather cowboy holsters and belts on sale. For the money they look like an excellent value and they are fully lined to boot. Get the whole rig for under $200.
If you want to church them up a bit you can pick up a couple of screw back concho's for the holster loops and/or belt.
I have one of the Marlin 1894's .38 Cowboy Special's they made for a couple of years. Shot my first few seasons with it until I switched to the 73. Marlin's are a great choice. Unless you are going for nostalgia stay away from the Winchesters, they have an extremely long stroke on the action.
Not too many choices on the shotgun. Double barrel that extracts only (no eject) or a Winchester 97 (non-trench model). Stoeger is far away the favorite of the doubles over the Remington Spartan and they are fairly inexpensive. See a lot of old Stevens too. I keep a Stoeger coach gun and an original (1903 mfg) Winchester 97 in my cart for matches. The 97 is my primary.
You really should plan to go watch a match and talk to the cowboys. Let them know you are interested in starting up and you will probably have guys lining up to let you try out their guns
I hate to keep doing this to you but you need a cart of some sort as well. For your first couple of matches you can probably pair up with someone and share their cart. I made a new one over the winter, it'll give you an idea of how your gear should be transported while at the match.
1858, for what it is worth, let me give you the benefit of my experience on a couple of other matters.
Caliber: So you got the .45's, good for you. Now if you use 200 gr bullets and load with 5.5 - 5.8 grains of Trail Boss powder, you will have a relatively mild but very accurate load.
Is you decide you want to take on the fastest shooters, buy some .45 Cowboy Special brass. It is made by Starline and is a .45 Colt case cut down to .45acp length. Almost like the old auto rim made for the 1917 revolvers. You can use .45 acp dies with a .45 Colt shell plate for reloading.
Gun leather. This is as important as your guns. Buying the "RIGHT" leather is not expensive. Buying the wrong leather is expensive. There are hundred of commercial makers most of whom do quality work with good materials. But their holsters may or may not be worth beans for your purposes. Kirkpatrick Leather makes the Long Hunter rig as well as several others. The LH rig has all of the little bells and whistles that make a gun rig work. You don't need the more expensive model, the base unit is fine.
If you want a less expensive rig, go to eBay and check out Red Dog Leather, good products at good prices. But there are many others just as good and priced right. Having said that, if you can afford it, go with the Kirkpatrick Long Hunter rig. Not because it is the best value but because it has the features you need whether you know you need them or not. If you just order leather that looks good and is priced right, you have no way of knowing whether it will be what you need.
Rifles: The 1894 Marlin is the best value among cowboy rifles. Go to gun broker and get an older model in .45 Colt. You want to use the same ammunition in both rifle and revolvers. Look for the older model that doesn't have a ramp front sight. These routinely go for under $400. They will have the micro-groove barrel but that doesn't matter. Don't worry if the stock has a few dings. It will have more before you are finished with it. Send it to Long Hunter, Rusty Marlin, Bill Oglesby, Cody Conneger, or one of the other Marlin wizards for an action job. This shouldn't run more than $125. max.
Shotgun: My preferences are showing now, but I would firmly suggest that you get the TTN 1878 Colt replica shotgun. It is a mule ear shotgun. But that will not slow you down at all. Moreover, it has loads of class. This gun will also profit from an action job. It is best to buy it complete with action job. You can get it from Evil Roy, Steves Guns, or maybe Long Hunter. Anyway, it is the berries. Cost with action job will be in the $550 range.
Nobody ever said that Cowboy Action Shooting was cheap. However, unlike many shooting sports, you are getting ready to make a bunch of new friends, some of whom will prove to be among the best friends you will ever have, and a true friend is priceless.
Caliber: So you got the .45's, good for you. Now if you use 200 gr bullets and load with 5.5 - 5.8 grains of Trail Boss powder, you will have a relatively mild but very accurate load.
Is you decide you want to take on the fastest shooters, buy some .45 Cowboy Special brass. It is made by Starline and is a .45 Colt case cut down to .45acp length. Almost like the old auto rim made for the 1917 revolvers. You can use .45 acp dies with a .45 Colt shell plate for reloading.
Gun leather. This is as important as your guns. Buying the "RIGHT" leather is not expensive. Buying the wrong leather is expensive. There are hundred of commercial makers most of whom do quality work with good materials. But their holsters may or may not be worth beans for your purposes. Kirkpatrick Leather makes the Long Hunter rig as well as several others. The LH rig has all of the little bells and whistles that make a gun rig work. You don't need the more expensive model, the base unit is fine.
If you want a less expensive rig, go to eBay and check out Red Dog Leather, good products at good prices. But there are many others just as good and priced right. Having said that, if you can afford it, go with the Kirkpatrick Long Hunter rig. Not because it is the best value but because it has the features you need whether you know you need them or not. If you just order leather that looks good and is priced right, you have no way of knowing whether it will be what you need.
Rifles: The 1894 Marlin is the best value among cowboy rifles. Go to gun broker and get an older model in .45 Colt. You want to use the same ammunition in both rifle and revolvers. Look for the older model that doesn't have a ramp front sight. These routinely go for under $400. They will have the micro-groove barrel but that doesn't matter. Don't worry if the stock has a few dings. It will have more before you are finished with it. Send it to Long Hunter, Rusty Marlin, Bill Oglesby, Cody Conneger, or one of the other Marlin wizards for an action job. This shouldn't run more than $125. max.
Shotgun: My preferences are showing now, but I would firmly suggest that you get the TTN 1878 Colt replica shotgun. It is a mule ear shotgun. But that will not slow you down at all. Moreover, it has loads of class. This gun will also profit from an action job. It is best to buy it complete with action job. You can get it from Evil Roy, Steves Guns, or maybe Long Hunter. Anyway, it is the berries. Cost with action job will be in the $550 range.
Nobody ever said that Cowboy Action Shooting was cheap. However, unlike many shooting sports, you are getting ready to make a bunch of new friends, some of whom will prove to be among the best friends you will ever have, and a true friend is priceless.
cpirtle and owlhoot, thanks for the excellent and informative posts ...
... you can't imagine how helpful you've been and I sincerely appreciate your efforts.
I called a CAS member yesterday that had a Marlin 1894 Cowboy Competition listed for sale on our local CAS website. It turns out that he decided to keep that particular rifle but we talked for a while and he was happy to answer a bunch of questions, give advice and pointers and so on.
Anyway, I bought a Marlin 1894 Cowboy Limited in .45 Colt with a 20" barrel this morning (on the internet) which is NIB. I don't know if it has the ramped front site or not but it does have ballard rifling. There's a 1894 CL in .45 Colt with a 24" barrel at a local gun shop but it's used and they're asking $695. I may take a look at that as well just in case ... no harm in having two right?
Now all I need is a shotgun, and leather, and a cart, and a hat , and boots and .....
I'm going to watch my first CAS event on July 27th. Our local club has one "match" per month so it should be fun AND educational.
... you can't imagine how helpful you've been and I sincerely appreciate your efforts.
I called a CAS member yesterday that had a Marlin 1894 Cowboy Competition listed for sale on our local CAS website. It turns out that he decided to keep that particular rifle but we talked for a while and he was happy to answer a bunch of questions, give advice and pointers and so on.
Anyway, I bought a Marlin 1894 Cowboy Limited in .45 Colt with a 20" barrel this morning (on the internet) which is NIB. I don't know if it has the ramped front site or not but it does have ballard rifling. There's a 1894 CL in .45 Colt with a 24" barrel at a local gun shop but it's used and they're asking $695. I may take a look at that as well just in case ... no harm in having two right?
Now all I need is a shotgun, and leather, and a cart, and a hat , and boots and .....
I'm going to watch my first CAS event on July 27th. Our local club has one "match" per month so it should be fun AND educational.
Glad to help, it's a fun sport and I love to see others get involved. (It's also the fastest growing shooting sport in the country..)
Feel free to email me offline anytime if you have questions or just want an opinion. -- [email protected]
PS: If you enjoy CAS you will have 2 or more of everything in pretty short order
Feel free to email me offline anytime if you have questions or just want an opinion. -- [email protected]
PS: If you enjoy CAS you will have 2 or more of everything in pretty short order
spiroxlii
Member
I've got a Uberti SAA clone, and I love it. I would buy another Uberti at this point.
I'm not sure if a Uberti is the most competitive SAA clone for CAS, but I like it because it's a faithful reproduction with no transfer bar like on the Rugers.
I'm not sure if a Uberti is the most competitive SAA clone for CAS, but I like it because it's a faithful reproduction with no transfer bar like on the Rugers.
I've been looking into the Trail Boss powder from IMR but there's no data on the Hodgdon web page for rifle loads. They own IMR and Winchester powders but only provide pistol loading data for .45 Colt. Am I to assume that the same loads can (and should) be used in both revolver and rifle?
cpirtle, thanks for offering to help out a newbie!
It's always tough starting at the beginning since there's so much to learn.
Sistema1927
Member
1858,
Absolutely. The same loads for your revolvers should work just fine in your rifle.
Absolutely. The same loads for your revolvers should work just fine in your rifle.
1858....I'm late on your thread, and you've already gotten great answers (for the most part), plus, have already made a decision I applaud.
Just for 20/20 hindsight, will mention that my experience with import SAA-type guns has been uniformly disappointing, especially the insides of the guns, when compared to actual 1st/2nd Gen Colts I own.
The Rugers are cast, and look cast, on the inside, but are incredibly durable.
The USFAs are good enough quality you'd have to go pre-WWII from a US maker to equal them.
The SAA, if made correctly (and USFAs are), can be mighty reliable if high quality springs are used, and the springs are swapped on a schedule....but in several years of shooting my USFA's, I've not had a parts failure to date, through LOTS of shooting/cycling.
If you end up not liking the modern black-gun look of the Rodeo, the disassembled gun can be put in a container of white vinegar, and five-minutes later (NOT overnight, for fear of etching bore/chambers) you'll have a grey gun that will slowly turn plum with handling/shooting, just keep it oiled like usual....
Edited in PS..... I have a solid, inexpensive holster from www.carricoleather.com and the bullets from www.cowboybullets.com equal best-quality homecast ...I don't shoot CAS, but these are good suppliers.
Just for 20/20 hindsight, will mention that my experience with import SAA-type guns has been uniformly disappointing, especially the insides of the guns, when compared to actual 1st/2nd Gen Colts I own.
The Rugers are cast, and look cast, on the inside, but are incredibly durable.
The USFAs are good enough quality you'd have to go pre-WWII from a US maker to equal them.
The SAA, if made correctly (and USFAs are), can be mighty reliable if high quality springs are used, and the springs are swapped on a schedule....but in several years of shooting my USFA's, I've not had a parts failure to date, through LOTS of shooting/cycling.
If you end up not liking the modern black-gun look of the Rodeo, the disassembled gun can be put in a container of white vinegar, and five-minutes later (NOT overnight, for fear of etching bore/chambers) you'll have a grey gun that will slowly turn plum with handling/shooting, just keep it oiled like usual....
Edited in PS..... I have a solid, inexpensive holster from www.carricoleather.com and the bullets from www.cowboybullets.com equal best-quality homecast ...I don't shoot CAS, but these are good suppliers.
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Phil DeGraves
Member
- Joined
- Aug 24, 2006
- Messages
- 1,531
It hasn't been enforced in years. That's why I don't shoot CAS anymore. It just stopped being fun.
Be that as it may, I started about ten years ago with Uberti's. Finally was able to afford Colt's and got them. Wish i had got them in the firstplace and saved the money from the Ubertis. But then again, I couldn't afford the Colt's when I started. I wanted authentic looking armament so a Ruger just wouldn't do, but that would have been a better affordable first choice.
I don't participate in Cowboy Action shoots, but I do like SA revolvers...Have a Sheriff's Model .357 Vaquero and a 50th Year ,357 Blackhawk, not to mention the Single-Six.
Kinda what I'm Jonesing for though is either a short barrel "Birds Head" Vaquero OR a long-barrel [6"+] Convertible Blackhawk, either one in .45 Colt
Kinda what I'm Jonesing for though is either a short barrel "Birds Head" Vaquero OR a long-barrel [6"+] Convertible Blackhawk, either one in .45 Colt
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