WW1 knuckle Knife Made by LF&C
- Thread starter glockamolee
- Start date
- Status
Superreverb
Member
Resrerve wasn't met, but this might give you an idea:
http://test.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.asp?Item=36095134
Best - Ed
http://test.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.asp?Item=36095134
Best - Ed
dfariswheel
Member
- Joined
- Dec 26, 2002
- Messages
- 6,656
The picture is of a US Model 1917-18 Knuckle "knife".
Early in WWI, the military realized they would need a fighting knife for use in trench warfare, so the hardware firm of Henry Disston & Sons was given the job of developing a suitable weapon.
The Disston knife is actually more of an "ice pick" bladed stabbing implement.
The triangular blade was 9 3/4" long, with a black finish.
The handle was walnut with shallow finger grooves.
The knuckle guard was formed of stamped steel with pressed out pyramid shaped points.
There was a conical staked nut holding the blade in the handle, and this could be used as a "skull cracker".
The scabbard was made of green tubular leather with a blackened steel tip and throat, with a standard wire pistol belt hook.
The scabbards were made by the Jewel Belt Co.
There was a second type, or version, often known as the 1918 model.
The only difference was, instead of having a row of pyramid shaped points running down the middle of the knuckle bow, the outer edges of the knuckle bow were formed into a double row of triangular, flange-like "teeth" which were folded down to form a double row of striking teeth.
The Model 1917/18 was made by the following companies:
Henry Diston & Sons-- HD&S
Onida Community Limited-- O.C.L.
Landers, Frary, & Clark-- L.F. & C.
American Cutlery Co.-- A.C. Co.
After WWI, the Model 1917/18 was declared surplus and all remaining knives were sold as surplus during the 1920's.
In WWII, these surplus knives were dug out of footlockers and collections and given to soldiers heading overseas, so you occasionally find one having been used by a WWII vet.
Although they were no longer GI issue, and none were known to have remained in government warehouses past the 1920's, 1917/18 knives were used by knife crazy soldiers.
Immediately after being issued and used in combat, deficiencies in the 1917/18 were found.
First and most important, the 1917/18 WASN'T a knife.
It couldn't be used to cut or slice, and as such was useless as a combat knife.
Since a soldier needed a tool as well as a weapon for slicing rations, cutting rope, and all the other uses a soldier needed an edged tool for, he also needed to be issued with an actual knife.
This meant that a soldier would be carrying a long 16" bayonet, a 1917/18 fighting knife, and would still need a real knife.
The second problem was, the 1917/18 was a long, bulky weapon, that was easy to get fouled with other equipment.
Due to the shape of the steel throat of the scabbard, the knife only fit the scabbard one way, and wasn't usable with the left hand since the handle would stick out if the knife was sheathed on the left side.
Last, the 1917/18 was not usable as a slashing weapon like a knife could.
To correct the problems with the 1917/18, in 1918, Major Eugene McNary of the AEF designed and had patented a new trench warfare weapon.
This was the famous Mark One, 1918 trench knife.
Incorrectly known as the "1918 Brass Knuckle" knife, this was actually the US Mark One.
The Mark One was a true knife, with a 6 3/4" double edged dagger blade.
The handle was actually made of cast bronze, which used a conical steel nut to hold the blade in.
The Mark One's blade was blackened with a gun blue type finish, the bronze handle was chemically blackened, with spikes formed on each knuckle bow.
These spikes were intended to prevent an opponent from grabbing the knife hand, as well as to improve the striking power.
The Mark One was made by Landers, Frary, & Clark, Henry Diston & Sons, and a VERY few by Onida Community, Ldt.
The Mark One scabbard was made of two halves of steel, joined by a rolled bead-type edge.
There were a double row of slots, top and bottom, front and rear, that served to hold the blade in the scabbard and prevent rattling.
The scabbard was first copper plated to prevent rust, then chemically blackened.
All scabbards were made by L,F, & C.
On the scabbard body were two prongs that were to be slipped over the cartridge belt, the upper prong being bent upward slightly so it could be slipped UP through the top grommet of the standard cartridge belt, and the lower prong over the belt.
These prongs were attached to the scabbard by copper rivets.
It was these prongs that were the weakness of the scabbard.
When an attempt was made to bend the upper prong so it could be fitted to the the narrower pistol belt, the prongs would break off.
Also, most soldiers attached the scabbard to the outside of the belt and any jerk or pull on the scabbard would break the prongs off.
Apparently, the scabbard was intended to be mounted on the INSIDE of the belt.
Knowing that it would be sometime before American manufacturers would be able to supply Mark One knives, Major McNary contracted with a French company to make a version of the Mark One in France.
This is the "Au lion" version of the Mark One, so called for the brand name and a stamped logo of a reclining lion on the blade.
The Au Lion was very similar to the US Mark One, but the blade was was the same as used on a French fighting knife, and the handle was made of true brass.
The blade and the handle were left unfinished and bright.
The French version handle is noticeably different with a different shape to the knuckles, lacking the spikes of the American version, and being of much poorer quality.
The Au lion scabbard is a European type tubular steel scabbard with the two prongs welded on the back.
It's suspected that the American made Mark One didn't arrive in France in time to actually see combat.
After WWI, some Mark One knives were declared surplus and were often given away as free gifts to good customers by sporting goods companies, usually as a gag "anti-bear" weapon.
These usually have an advertising message stamped on the reverse side of the handle.
During WWII, the Mark One was the only fighting knife available, and it was heavily issued to early paratrooper and Ranger units.
It was the scabbard prongs that were the problem, and as they broke off in heavy use, expedient scabbards were used, usually whatever leather scabbard could be found.
Realizing that the Mark One's bronze handle was a critical war material, when the supply of Mark One's quickly ran out, a new US fighting knife was developed.
This was the US M3.
This leather handled knife was the standard fighting knife of WWII, and was used as the pattern for all US bayonets from the M1 Carbine to the M16
The Model 1917/18 trench knife often shows up for sale, and Ebay is a major source for them.
Doing an Ebay search under "Trench Knife" will usually show several for sale, both with and without the scabbard.
Doing a search using the completed auction option will show what knives have sold for.
The 1917/18 is plentiful enough, that one company is making an exact replica of the original Jewel Belt Company scabbard.
The Mark One is more popular and rare, and prices tend to be quite high, especially for one that has an original steel scabbard.
Prices are even higher for versions with scabbards with both prongs intact.
Early in WWI, the military realized they would need a fighting knife for use in trench warfare, so the hardware firm of Henry Disston & Sons was given the job of developing a suitable weapon.
The Disston knife is actually more of an "ice pick" bladed stabbing implement.
The triangular blade was 9 3/4" long, with a black finish.
The handle was walnut with shallow finger grooves.
The knuckle guard was formed of stamped steel with pressed out pyramid shaped points.
There was a conical staked nut holding the blade in the handle, and this could be used as a "skull cracker".
The scabbard was made of green tubular leather with a blackened steel tip and throat, with a standard wire pistol belt hook.
The scabbards were made by the Jewel Belt Co.
There was a second type, or version, often known as the 1918 model.
The only difference was, instead of having a row of pyramid shaped points running down the middle of the knuckle bow, the outer edges of the knuckle bow were formed into a double row of triangular, flange-like "teeth" which were folded down to form a double row of striking teeth.
The Model 1917/18 was made by the following companies:
Henry Diston & Sons-- HD&S
Onida Community Limited-- O.C.L.
Landers, Frary, & Clark-- L.F. & C.
American Cutlery Co.-- A.C. Co.
After WWI, the Model 1917/18 was declared surplus and all remaining knives were sold as surplus during the 1920's.
In WWII, these surplus knives were dug out of footlockers and collections and given to soldiers heading overseas, so you occasionally find one having been used by a WWII vet.
Although they were no longer GI issue, and none were known to have remained in government warehouses past the 1920's, 1917/18 knives were used by knife crazy soldiers.
Immediately after being issued and used in combat, deficiencies in the 1917/18 were found.
First and most important, the 1917/18 WASN'T a knife.
It couldn't be used to cut or slice, and as such was useless as a combat knife.
Since a soldier needed a tool as well as a weapon for slicing rations, cutting rope, and all the other uses a soldier needed an edged tool for, he also needed to be issued with an actual knife.
This meant that a soldier would be carrying a long 16" bayonet, a 1917/18 fighting knife, and would still need a real knife.
The second problem was, the 1917/18 was a long, bulky weapon, that was easy to get fouled with other equipment.
Due to the shape of the steel throat of the scabbard, the knife only fit the scabbard one way, and wasn't usable with the left hand since the handle would stick out if the knife was sheathed on the left side.
Last, the 1917/18 was not usable as a slashing weapon like a knife could.
To correct the problems with the 1917/18, in 1918, Major Eugene McNary of the AEF designed and had patented a new trench warfare weapon.
This was the famous Mark One, 1918 trench knife.
Incorrectly known as the "1918 Brass Knuckle" knife, this was actually the US Mark One.
The Mark One was a true knife, with a 6 3/4" double edged dagger blade.
The handle was actually made of cast bronze, which used a conical steel nut to hold the blade in.
The Mark One's blade was blackened with a gun blue type finish, the bronze handle was chemically blackened, with spikes formed on each knuckle bow.
These spikes were intended to prevent an opponent from grabbing the knife hand, as well as to improve the striking power.
The Mark One was made by Landers, Frary, & Clark, Henry Diston & Sons, and a VERY few by Onida Community, Ldt.
The Mark One scabbard was made of two halves of steel, joined by a rolled bead-type edge.
There were a double row of slots, top and bottom, front and rear, that served to hold the blade in the scabbard and prevent rattling.
The scabbard was first copper plated to prevent rust, then chemically blackened.
All scabbards were made by L,F, & C.
On the scabbard body were two prongs that were to be slipped over the cartridge belt, the upper prong being bent upward slightly so it could be slipped UP through the top grommet of the standard cartridge belt, and the lower prong over the belt.
These prongs were attached to the scabbard by copper rivets.
It was these prongs that were the weakness of the scabbard.
When an attempt was made to bend the upper prong so it could be fitted to the the narrower pistol belt, the prongs would break off.
Also, most soldiers attached the scabbard to the outside of the belt and any jerk or pull on the scabbard would break the prongs off.
Apparently, the scabbard was intended to be mounted on the INSIDE of the belt.
Knowing that it would be sometime before American manufacturers would be able to supply Mark One knives, Major McNary contracted with a French company to make a version of the Mark One in France.
This is the "Au lion" version of the Mark One, so called for the brand name and a stamped logo of a reclining lion on the blade.
The Au Lion was very similar to the US Mark One, but the blade was was the same as used on a French fighting knife, and the handle was made of true brass.
The blade and the handle were left unfinished and bright.
The French version handle is noticeably different with a different shape to the knuckles, lacking the spikes of the American version, and being of much poorer quality.
The Au lion scabbard is a European type tubular steel scabbard with the two prongs welded on the back.
It's suspected that the American made Mark One didn't arrive in France in time to actually see combat.
After WWI, some Mark One knives were declared surplus and were often given away as free gifts to good customers by sporting goods companies, usually as a gag "anti-bear" weapon.
These usually have an advertising message stamped on the reverse side of the handle.
During WWII, the Mark One was the only fighting knife available, and it was heavily issued to early paratrooper and Ranger units.
It was the scabbard prongs that were the problem, and as they broke off in heavy use, expedient scabbards were used, usually whatever leather scabbard could be found.
Realizing that the Mark One's bronze handle was a critical war material, when the supply of Mark One's quickly ran out, a new US fighting knife was developed.
This was the US M3.
This leather handled knife was the standard fighting knife of WWII, and was used as the pattern for all US bayonets from the M1 Carbine to the M16
The Model 1917/18 trench knife often shows up for sale, and Ebay is a major source for them.
Doing an Ebay search under "Trench Knife" will usually show several for sale, both with and without the scabbard.
Doing a search using the completed auction option will show what knives have sold for.
The 1917/18 is plentiful enough, that one company is making an exact replica of the original Jewel Belt Company scabbard.
The Mark One is more popular and rare, and prices tend to be quite high, especially for one that has an original steel scabbard.
Prices are even higher for versions with scabbards with both prongs intact.
Last edited:
deadin
Member
dfariswheel - Wow, that response almost qualifies as a college dissertation.
(I am going to file it in my "information" file for later reference.)
Anyway, the one thing you missed is that there seems to be a large number of "replicas" of some of these knives currently available. Someone without a good working knowledge of these knives should be very careful about what they are buying.
Dean
(I am going to file it in my "information" file for later reference.)
Anyway, the one thing you missed is that there seems to be a large number of "replicas" of some of these knives currently available. Someone without a good working knowledge of these knives should be very careful about what they are buying.
Dean
dfariswheel
Member
- Joined
- Dec 26, 2002
- Messages
- 6,656
There are several replicas.
These aren't of very good quality, and aren't even really good replicas.
The better versions were made in Japan, and many were sold to GI's on their way to Vietnam.
These had brass handles and stainless steel blades.
The more recent versions are made in Taiwan.
The brass handle is totally "off" in shape.
However, the stainless blade is actually better quality and manufacture than the Japanese versions.
On these "replicas" the blade is only 1/8" thick, while the original was 5/16".
These often come with a scabbard, that's so bad, it's not much more than a joke.
The scabbard is made of two halves of thin sheet steel, "very" lightly crimped together, with two flat prongs lightly spot welded to the back.
Often, these scabbards literally fall to piece as soon as it's removed from the box, and the prongs can be pulled off with the fingers.
These Asian "replicas" are easy to ID.
The handles are rough cast brass, usually shaped slightly to radically differently.
The blades are stainless steel, and much thinner than the original.
The early Japanese version have a different grind at the rear, and the current Taiwan version is TOO well ground.
The nut that holds the blade in is brass, and on the Taiwan version, WAY to sharply pointed, being almost needle sharp.
On these Asian replica Mark One knives, the handle is marked simply US 1918 in letters that are too large.
The knuckle bow and the round guard is too thick on the Japanese version, and WAY to thick on the Taiwan versions.
There was one replica that really deserves the name.
I've been unable to ID when, where, or by who these were made, but this one is near to being as good as an original L.F.&C.
I suspect it was made overseas, but can't find ANY details on it.
The handle appears to be the same bronze as the original, and clearly, an original L.F.&C handle was used to make the mold.
On mine, you can just make out where the L.F.&C-1918 mark was removed from the mold master.
The blade is the original 5/16" thick, but is a different shape.
The blade is high quality stainless steel, not as nicely ground as the Taiwan versions, but is a tougher steel.
I've never seen a scabbard for one of these, but failing an original, one of these would be a good substitute for actual combat use.
Here's mine:
Note that the scabbard is a "home made" version.
The handle, made from a L.F.&C original:
These aren't of very good quality, and aren't even really good replicas.
The better versions were made in Japan, and many were sold to GI's on their way to Vietnam.
These had brass handles and stainless steel blades.
The more recent versions are made in Taiwan.
The brass handle is totally "off" in shape.
However, the stainless blade is actually better quality and manufacture than the Japanese versions.
On these "replicas" the blade is only 1/8" thick, while the original was 5/16".
These often come with a scabbard, that's so bad, it's not much more than a joke.
The scabbard is made of two halves of thin sheet steel, "very" lightly crimped together, with two flat prongs lightly spot welded to the back.
Often, these scabbards literally fall to piece as soon as it's removed from the box, and the prongs can be pulled off with the fingers.
These Asian "replicas" are easy to ID.
The handles are rough cast brass, usually shaped slightly to radically differently.
The blades are stainless steel, and much thinner than the original.
The early Japanese version have a different grind at the rear, and the current Taiwan version is TOO well ground.
The nut that holds the blade in is brass, and on the Taiwan version, WAY to sharply pointed, being almost needle sharp.
On these Asian replica Mark One knives, the handle is marked simply US 1918 in letters that are too large.
The knuckle bow and the round guard is too thick on the Japanese version, and WAY to thick on the Taiwan versions.
There was one replica that really deserves the name.
I've been unable to ID when, where, or by who these were made, but this one is near to being as good as an original L.F.&C.
I suspect it was made overseas, but can't find ANY details on it.
The handle appears to be the same bronze as the original, and clearly, an original L.F.&C handle was used to make the mold.
On mine, you can just make out where the L.F.&C-1918 mark was removed from the mold master.
The blade is the original 5/16" thick, but is a different shape.
The blade is high quality stainless steel, not as nicely ground as the Taiwan versions, but is a tougher steel.
I've never seen a scabbard for one of these, but failing an original, one of these would be a good substitute for actual combat use.
Here's mine:
Note that the scabbard is a "home made" version.
The handle, made from a L.F.&C original:
BandageWagon74
Member
Hello DfarisWheel:
I too would like to thank you for all that good information.
This may be off-topic, but if there's any chance you would be interested in ever selling that accurate 1918 trench knife replica, please feel free to e-mail or PM me. We might be able to come to a price that is good for both of us.
I apologize for the off topic post...but again, thank you for taking the time to post that much important information.
All the best,
Be well, Be safe,
Mike Arguelles
FDNY-EMS #5505
I too would like to thank you for all that good information.
This may be off-topic, but if there's any chance you would be interested in ever selling that accurate 1918 trench knife replica, please feel free to e-mail or PM me. We might be able to come to a price that is good for both of us.
I apologize for the off topic post...but again, thank you for taking the time to post that much important information.
All the best,
Be well, Be safe,
Mike Arguelles
FDNY-EMS #5505
dfariswheel
Member
- Joined
- Dec 26, 2002
- Messages
- 6,656
Sorry my replica isn't for sale.
What I suggest is watching Ebay. The replicas and an occasional genuine Mark One show up from time to time, BUT...... Ebay prohibits selling the Mark One because of the "brass knuckle" Politically Incorrect name.
Strangely, they have no problem with selling the 1917 and 1918 spike blade weapons with STEEL knuckles.
What you'll need to do is monitor Ebay closely, and when one does turn up, you need to quickly get the sellers ID and email address, then contact them directly.
Very shortly after listing, Ebay will pull the acuction, at which time you contact the seller privately and offer to buy the knife.
This is against Ebay rules, and it can be risky if the seller stiffs you or you have a problem, since you have no recourse through Ebay.
Best to pay by US Postal money order, or by credit card.
I haven't seen any of the good replicas like mine for a while, but watch Ebay, and something will turn up.
If you can swing the bucks, an original is actually a good investment.
The last one I had I bought for $250, and stupidly sold for $300. Now they sell for $500 and up.
What I suggest is watching Ebay. The replicas and an occasional genuine Mark One show up from time to time, BUT...... Ebay prohibits selling the Mark One because of the "brass knuckle" Politically Incorrect name.
Strangely, they have no problem with selling the 1917 and 1918 spike blade weapons with STEEL knuckles.
What you'll need to do is monitor Ebay closely, and when one does turn up, you need to quickly get the sellers ID and email address, then contact them directly.
Very shortly after listing, Ebay will pull the acuction, at which time you contact the seller privately and offer to buy the knife.
This is against Ebay rules, and it can be risky if the seller stiffs you or you have a problem, since you have no recourse through Ebay.
Best to pay by US Postal money order, or by credit card.
I haven't seen any of the good replicas like mine for a while, but watch Ebay, and something will turn up.
If you can swing the bucks, an original is actually a good investment.
The last one I had I bought for $250, and stupidly sold for $300. Now they sell for $500 and up.
Kamicosmos
Member
My grandfather has an ancient briefcase with some of his WWII war trophies in them. His M1's bayonette, some german medals, the Luger, a Nazi banner, a 37mm shell from an AA gun (De-milled, grandma said when he got home he pulled the shell and dumped the powder in the fireplace). And one of these trench knives. I was always facinated by it as a kid. I'll get some pics of it and post here for you to look at. We always assumed it was real, because we know the other things are. No scabboard though. The knife is beat to hell too. Dunno why, other than heavy use.
edited to add: After looking at the pics again, it looks very much like that French one....can't wait to get home and take a look at it.
edited to add: After looking at the pics again, it looks very much like that French one....can't wait to get home and take a look at it.
dfariswheel
Member
- Joined
- Dec 26, 2002
- Messages
- 6,656
Do so, and I can tell you more about the French Au Lion versions.
Kamicosmos
Member
Here ya go. Just a quick couple of picks. I'm certain it's one of the french one's as you described, because you can just barely make out the lion sillohette and aulion text on the blade, right above the hilt.
I included a pic with the bayonette for size comparison. As I mentioned, both knives are beat to hell. But, well. They have history and character in spades!! (They are both still very sharp too!)
I included a pic with the bayonette for size comparison. As I mentioned, both knives are beat to hell. But, well. They have history and character in spades!! (They are both still very sharp too!)
Sunray
Member
Be sure they're legal to own where you are. Some places consider them evil because of the knuckle bow. They're considered to be 'brass knuckles' up here and hence are illegal to own. Despite the history.
LF&C mark 1 trench knife of 1918
I am a newbe to site. I have an Original 1918 trench knife by LF&C and so marked. Not a repro. No scabbard. Thinking of selling it, but not sure of asking price at this time. Can furnish anyone 3 pics of knife for price opinion. thanks john
I am a newbe to site. I have an Original 1918 trench knife by LF&C and so marked. Not a repro. No scabbard. Thinking of selling it, but not sure of asking price at this time. Can furnish anyone 3 pics of knife for price opinion. thanks john
rdenterwish
Member
- Joined
- Aug 8, 2006
- Messages
- 2
US 1918 trench knife
: I have a US1918 trench knife brass knuckle . I was reading thread and noticed that someone may be interested in a replica how will I know what I have and how much it is worth and the best place to sell it . please e-mail me back asap thank you much can send a picture if needed.
: I have a US1918 trench knife brass knuckle . I was reading thread and noticed that someone may be interested in a replica how will I know what I have and how much it is worth and the best place to sell it . please e-mail me back asap thank you much can send a picture if needed.
Last edited:
dfariswheel
Member
- Joined
- Dec 26, 2002
- Messages
- 6,656
An original Mark One US made version will have the makers initials cast into the grip.
Read the above post and you'll see the info and picture of an LF&C made knife.
There were three US makers:
LF&C-- Landers, Frary, & Clark.
HD&S--Henry Diston and Sons.
And VERY rare, OCL--Onida Community Limited.
By far, the most common is the LF&C.
The replicas are unmarked on the handle except for a large "US 1918" mark, and only some are marked on the side of the blades.
The most common replica maker is "United".
The earlier Japanese made versions are usually completely unmarked.
The later Taiwan made version usually has "United" markings on the blade.
You can't sell these on Ebay due to their weird rules.
The best place is to put a for sale add in some of the gun forums, or list it on an auction site like Gun Broker.
http://www.gunbroker.com/
Price for an ORIGINAL US-made knife in good condition would run anywhere from $400 to $500 or even more for a good one.
For an older replica, about $30.00, for a newer Taiwan replica, about $20.00 is right, since these are still being made.
For a high quality replica like mine which was made using an original as a mold master, possible $50.00 to $100.00.
Read the above post and you'll see the info and picture of an LF&C made knife.
There were three US makers:
LF&C-- Landers, Frary, & Clark.
HD&S--Henry Diston and Sons.
And VERY rare, OCL--Onida Community Limited.
By far, the most common is the LF&C.
The replicas are unmarked on the handle except for a large "US 1918" mark, and only some are marked on the side of the blades.
The most common replica maker is "United".
The earlier Japanese made versions are usually completely unmarked.
The later Taiwan made version usually has "United" markings on the blade.
You can't sell these on Ebay due to their weird rules.
The best place is to put a for sale add in some of the gun forums, or list it on an auction site like Gun Broker.
http://www.gunbroker.com/
Price for an ORIGINAL US-made knife in good condition would run anywhere from $400 to $500 or even more for a good one.
For an older replica, about $30.00, for a newer Taiwan replica, about $20.00 is right, since these are still being made.
For a high quality replica like mine which was made using an original as a mold master, possible $50.00 to $100.00.
rdenterwish
Member
- Joined
- Aug 8, 2006
- Messages
- 2
THANK YOU
THANK YOU FOR THE HELP.IT IS A NICE KNIFE BUT I NEED TO SELL IT,KNOWING SOME KIND OF PRICE AND WHAT I HAVE HELPS ALOT THANKS AGAIN RICK
THANK YOU FOR THE HELP.IT IS A NICE KNIFE BUT I NEED TO SELL IT,KNOWING SOME KIND OF PRICE AND WHAT I HAVE HELPS ALOT THANKS AGAIN RICKgrendelbane
Member
I am the proud owner of a modified 1918 replica trench knife!
I bought it more years ago than i want to think about. The handle, while a poor quality casting, is brass, and would polish up fairly well, if some one wanted to invest the time. The blade was hopeless. It was too soft to serve as a letter opener!
Strangely enough, a family member gave me a knife kit for Christmas. The blade was double edged, reasonably sharp, probably a little thinner than the originals, but wider at the base. The strange thing is, the end of the tang was threaded, and the blade not only fit into my brass hilt perfectly, the nut screwed on and tightened up just like the blade was intended for that purpose.
I have no sheath for it, which is no big deal, as I do not frequent places where I need that much of a knife. Still, it makes a nice letter opener, and is certainly a good conversation piece. Most people look at it, and immediately sense it is not right, but other than the stainless steel blade, they can not quite put their finger on it.
I bought it more years ago than i want to think about. The handle, while a poor quality casting, is brass, and would polish up fairly well, if some one wanted to invest the time. The blade was hopeless. It was too soft to serve as a letter opener!
Strangely enough, a family member gave me a knife kit for Christmas. The blade was double edged, reasonably sharp, probably a little thinner than the originals, but wider at the base. The strange thing is, the end of the tang was threaded, and the blade not only fit into my brass hilt perfectly, the nut screwed on and tightened up just like the blade was intended for that purpose.
I have no sheath for it, which is no big deal, as I do not frequent places where I need that much of a knife. Still, it makes a nice letter opener, and is certainly a good conversation piece. Most people look at it, and immediately sense it is not right, but other than the stainless steel blade, they can not quite put their finger on it.
to: grendelbane
I have pics of my original 1918 LF&C trench knife I can send you if you email me. then you can compare yours with mine.....if you wish ([email protected])
I have pics of my original 1918 LF&C trench knife I can send you if you email me. then you can compare yours with mine.....if you wish ([email protected])
I own a Authentic LF&C Mark One it is in excelent condition i have the sheith and the prongs are still pretty intact except for a little bend. how much do you think I'd be able to sell it for?
here should be some pics of mine.
http://s48.photobucket.com/albums/f204/hailgain/1918 Mark One/
here should be some pics of mine.
http://s48.photobucket.com/albums/f204/hailgain/1918 Mark One/
Last edited:
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
These sold recently.
http://cgi.ebay.com/U-S-1918-Trench...s=65:13|66:2|39:1|240:1318|301:1|293:1|294:50
http://cgi.ebay.com/U-S-1918-L-F-C-...s=65:13|66:2|39:1|240:1318|301:1|293:1|294:50
http://www.auctionarms.com/search/displayitem.cfm?itemnum=9177848
This one didn't sell.
http://www.auctionarms.com/search/displayitem.cfm?itemnum=9085663
rc
http://cgi.ebay.com/U-S-1918-Trench...s=65:13|66:2|39:1|240:1318|301:1|293:1|294:50
http://cgi.ebay.com/U-S-1918-L-F-C-...s=65:13|66:2|39:1|240:1318|301:1|293:1|294:50
http://www.auctionarms.com/search/displayitem.cfm?itemnum=9177848
This one didn't sell.
http://www.auctionarms.com/search/displayitem.cfm?itemnum=9085663
rc
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
If it's all steel, it isn't original.
Only the Model 1917-1918 Trench knife like the one in the first post, had a sheet metal steel guard with a triangle shaped stabbing "blade".
All 1918 MK1's had cast brass-knuckle handles.
Some were blackened and some were not.
None were ever made with steel handles.
Yours looks to be blackened brass too, with most of the black worn off.
Try a magnet on it and see if it sticks.
rc
Only the Model 1917-1918 Trench knife like the one in the first post, had a sheet metal steel guard with a triangle shaped stabbing "blade".
All 1918 MK1's had cast brass-knuckle handles.
Some were blackened and some were not.
None were ever made with steel handles.
Yours looks to be blackened brass too, with most of the black worn off.
Try a magnet on it and see if it sticks.
rc
Last edited:
last-boy-scout*
Member
- Joined
- Jun 29, 2009
- Messages
- 2
Boom! I sent you a pm (private message). There's a link to view it at the top right hand corner of this screen. Thanks!
to anyone interested I put my 1918 Mark One heres the Link:
http://cgi.ebay.com/1918-Trench-Kni...QQptZLHQ5fDefaultDomainQ5f0QQsalenotsupported
http://cgi.ebay.com/1918-Trench-Kni...QQptZLHQ5fDefaultDomainQ5f0QQsalenotsupported
- Status