yes, it pays to read.

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thunderbyrd

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i have the Lyman 49th edition, thanks to a Most Excellent member of the THR. i ordered Reloading for Handgunners by Patrick Sweeney and i also have the ABC's of Reloading enroute to me.

i just discovered something that illustrates how important it is to study the literature. Mr Sweeney points out in his book that not all .45 acp uses large pistol primers, some use small. after reading this, i went and looked at some 45 i've brought home from the range. and sure enough, i see 2 different sizers of primers.

my point here is that later on when i start actually reloading, i would have run into this and i would have been so frustrated and i would have gone nuts trying to figure out what i was doing wrong. the logical answer to the problem, different sizes of primers, wouldn't seem possible.

details, man, details.
 
I save the SP brass and toss it in my friend's range bags who also only load LP.
^^^^:rofl::eek::evil:^^^^

I load both, in different batches, and label the boxes with caliber, bullet weight/type/profile, powder, charge, date, and if they are SP they get an "/SP" designation after the caliber. When I seal them and put them away I don't bother segregating.

.44Mag and .45Colt for rifle which have been reconfigured for a LR primer get a "/LR" after the caliber.
 
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You'll find that reloading is very simple unless you complicate it.Break it down into steps,and go one step at a time.There are so many more ammo makers out there now than there were when I started back in the late 70's.First step is to read and learn as much as you can.When you actually start,sorting and inspecting your brass will be the first thing you should do.I like to keep brass sorted by head stamp and primer size.If I'm just loading plinkers or practice ammo that's not loaded to the max,I'm pretty easy to please as far as brass goes.When I load what goes in my carry guns,I will nitpick the heck out of it and only use the best I have.With so many companies making ammo,you can find all kinds of crazy stuff.Berdan primed,small primers,aluminum cases,thick brass,thin brass,variances in case capacity and other little things that make a difference,especially if you get range pickups or if you buy bulk packaged brass from some of the outfits that pack up anything that resembles what it's supposed to be.Do yourself a huge favor when you actually start-pick out 20 or so cases that are from a known good source,preferably some good quality stuff that you fired through your pistol and use them so that you don't run into any problems.And remember,it's really a simple process as long as we keep it that way.
 
You'll find that reloading is very simple unless you complicate it.Break it down into steps,and go one step at a time.There are so many more ammo makers out there now than there were when I started back in the late 70's.First step is to read and learn as much as you can.When you actually start,sorting and inspecting your brass will be the first thing you should do.I like to keep brass sorted by head stamp and primer size.If I'm just loading plinkers or practice ammo that's not loaded to the max,I'm pretty easy to please as far as brass goes.When I load what goes in my carry guns,I will nitpick the heck out of it and only use the best I have.With so many companies making ammo,you can find all kinds of crazy stuff.Berdan primed,small primers,aluminum cases,thick brass,thin brass,variances in case capacity and other little things that make a difference,especially if you get range pickups or if you buy bulk packaged brass from some of the outfits that pack up anything that resembles what it's supposed to be.Do yourself a huge favor when you actually start-pick out 20 or so cases that are from a known good source,preferably some good quality stuff that you fired through your pistol and use them so that you don't run into any problems.And remember,it's really a simple process as long as we keep it that way.
I haven't seen this in a manual yet but investing in a good, strong magnet is a good idea these days, too. Some of the imported cases are plated steel that look like brass but don't resize or hold neck tension like brass. They're not "trash" or "bad" necessarily but they do have to treated differently to work correctly versus even hard brass (Cartridge Brass, C260/Copper Alloy, C26000, with a higher % zinc content or cold hardened).
 
Been there, read the book, and then learned even more from hitting the pot holes.

View attachment 1046894


Back in early '80s, my buddy had a supercharger (Paxton, I belevr)

Brown delivered the box, we started unpacking and laying out the pieces.

Get to the bottom of the box and see a large white envelope taped to box. Red lettering on envelope " DISCARD IMMEDIATELY - INSTRUCTIONS ENCLOSED "

At least they have a sense of humor.
 
i just discovered something that illustrates how important it is to study the literature. Mr Sweeney points out in his book that not all .45 acp uses large pistol primers, some use small. after reading this, i went and looked at some 45 i've brought home from the range. and sure enough, i see 2 different sizers of primers.

Blazer is pretty well known for loading SP 45ACP. I am sure a few other companies have picked it up by now. I have shot both as factory ammo so I was aware of them before they started going in reloading books. When I was doing pickup I made sure to have two ziploc bags for 45ACP and a marker. Small in one, large in another. Saves a lot of frustration at the bench.
 
Back in early '80s, my buddy had a supercharger (Paxton, I belevr)

Brown delivered the box, we started unpacking and laying out the pieces.

Get to the bottom of the box and see a large white envelope taped to box. Red lettering on envelope " DISCARD IMMEDIATELY - INSTRUCTIONS ENCLOSED "

At least they have a sense of humor.
I like it!
First line, first page, of any manual should read, "Now that you have retrieved these instructions from the trash..."
 
i have the Lyman 49th edition, thanks to a Most Excellent member of the THR. i ordered Reloading for Handgunners by Patrick Sweeney and i also have the ABC's of Reloading enroute to me.

i just discovered something that illustrates how important it is to study the literature. Mr Sweeney points out in his book that not all .45 acp uses large pistol primers, some use small. after reading this, i went and looked at some 45 i've brought home from the range. and sure enough, i see 2 different sizers of primers.

my point here is that later on when i start actually reloading, i would have run into this and i would have been so frustrated and i would have gone nuts trying to figure out what i was doing wrong. the logical answer to the problem, different sizes of primers, wouldn't seem possible.

details, man, details.
I think possibly as you go on reading into the chapters about process and inspection routines you'll get pulled in deeper and deeper until that big light bulb goes off and you realize something - I have no idea what - about WHY handloading is a hobby unto itself and not just an aspect of shooting. For me it was when my uncle told me to read the Lyman's manual chapters on bullet casting, even though I had no interest in casting. I suddenly realized the same shapes, weights and profiles of bullet are made differently - different heats and alloys - for a reason. It took years to figure out what those reasons are and I'm still finding new ones. :)
 
^^^^:rofl::eek::evil:^^^^

I load both, in different batches, and label the boxes with caliber, bullet weight/type/profile, powder, charge, date, and if they are SP they get an "/SP" designation after the caliber. When I seal them and put them away I don't bother segregating.

.44Mag and .45Colt for rifle which have been reconfigured for a LR primer get a "/LR" after the caliber.
Off subject slightly, I'm interested in the use of LR in in big bore revolver cartridges. Do you have a thread about it or some insite to offer? I'm intrigued by another member who said he got better accuracy by changing nothing but to LR primers after uniforming the pockets deeper.
 
Off subject slightly, I'm interested in the use of LR in in big bore revolver cartridges. Do you have a thread about it or some insite to offer? I'm intrigued by another member who said he got better accuracy by changing nothing but to LR primers after uniforming the pockets deeper.
Sure. I've got a Ruger M77/44 I load using the same jacketed bullets for hunting as my SBH but I use a Lyman LR primer uniforming tool to make the brass for the rifle LR. Is it a marked improvement? Not really. But, I don't have problems either. The SBH doesn't seem to care, either. I get slightly more reliable ignition, I think, with W296/H110 and IMR 4227 using the LR primers. It's subjective, not objective.

The only caveat is, if your revolver has had springs replaced with lower-weights for quicker action, it may not set off the LR primers. Maybe. I also typically use Federal LRP so, there's that.
 
Thanks for the info. I have a batch of 44 mag brass that I've cut to special. It was Hornady so was all short of normal mag length anyways. It turns out some of the pockets will let a primer seat .008-.010 deep. They still will ignite in my flattop blackhawk. I tried a rifle primer in one to see if it would go below flush, and it was about .004 proud. So I've been thinking about converting a few of those Hornady cases to LR pockets and testing them. I have 450+ pieces in that batch, so it's worth a bit of effort.
 
Thanks for the info. I have a batch of 44 mag brass that I've cut to special. It was Hornady so was all short of normal mag length anyways. It turns out some of the pockets will let a primer seat .008-.010 deep. They still will ignite in my flattop blackhawk. I tried a rifle primer in one to see if it would go below flush, and it was about .004 proud. So I've been thinking about converting a few of those Hornady cases to LR pockets and testing them. I have 450+ pieces in that batch, so it's worth a bit of effort.
Definitely! I don’t typically recommend altering brass permanently but since they’re already short, converting to LR is a good thing. I suggest trying IMR 4227 with a 240gr LSWC if you have enough barrel for the longer pressure curve.
 
I keep all LP .45 ACP and give the SP cases to someone that wants them when I buy range brass. It’s hard enough keeping track of things in life without that added annoyance. If / when I buy .45 ACP ammo I always open the box and look at the primers. I actually haven’t encountered any but I do not buy .45 ACP very often. Maybe once a year.
 
Definitely! I don’t typically recommend altering brass permanently but since they’re already short, converting to LR is a good thing. I suggest trying IMR 4227 with a 240gr LSWC if you have enough barrel for the longer pressure curve.
Seems like small pistol primers would add brass/strength around the primer pocket which would be good if you're one of those people that likes to see just how much pressure a .45 ACP can really handle (in a firearm set up for it of course).
 
Seems like small pistol primers would add brass/strength around the primer pocket which would be good if you're one of those people that likes to see just how much pressure a .45 ACP can really handle (in a firearm set up for it of course).

I remember Ackley addressed a similar theory about rimmed cartridges supposed to be stronger than rimless. He concluded it was not true. Case strength is more complicated, sidewall strength and case support is far more important than primer size.

These cases show the importance of case support in the chamber, and it is lucky neither burst.

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Don't see why it would not work for you. Trying a few and then modifying them all if you get good results, sounds like a good thing. Let us know how it works out though.
I will certainly post about it once I do ky and get some results. Be a while though as I have toget the uniformer and the gumption.

I've been working on lapping a couple moulds for 44, and making 45 auto lately.
 
Oh yes indeed. I have a Glock 21 converted to 460 Rowland. You wouldn't want to develop those pressures in a barrel without adequate chamber support or without a heavier recoil spring, a compensator and a heavier magazine spring. Hot rodding .45 ACP isn't something I want to do but I have seen it done successfully. I have seen 460 Rowland pressures in a .45 acp case and there was no kaboom. The .450 SMC used a small rifle primer in a 45 super case to achieve 32,000 psi. It allegedly has a stronger web too but the small rifle primer was supposed to increase it's strength as well. Therefore, I suspect the small primer .45 acp brass is stronger but I don't know how much stronger. Regardless, I don't pitch mine, I just separate it and wonder about it.,
 
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