Yugo M72

[memyselfandi]

I just finished putting it together after a bath in the shop's parts tank today. I recieved it from Classic Arms Inc. yesterday. I did an initial inspection and was pretty happy, no scratches or dented wood. The stock and fore grips are not finished, but don't look like they were just cut with a chainsaw either. It has a Tapco compensator and the weird thing is the slash is either to the right or left of centerline of the barrel because of the two index grooves cut in it. The spring loaded pin in the sight indexes it. Does anyone know if there is any problem with this arrangement. The barrel in nice and shiny with no pits or dark spots. After a good cleaning (all day soaking in the tank) I noticed a few small things. The gas piston is an good shape but the tube had some rust in it, I don't think it will cause any issues as the piston slides free in the tube. The bolt carrier had some some scratches/high spots which took a little work with my die grinder/polishing pad and some emery paper. It came with the Tapco G2 trigger group and the bolt does hang up on the hammer, but really only when I don't let the bolt slam forward, it should get better as time goes on. I wasn't able to get the bolt apart to clean the firing pin and bore, and extractor. Any help on this would be appreciated. Its as clean as a half a can of non-cloronated brake cleaner can get it. I'm off to the range Saturday. By the way Classic Arms Inc. is a good bunch of people, I called there to get the tracking number and talked to Jan. She was multi-tasking like crazy but was polite and still helped me out.

 

[Gord]

The slant muzzle break is normal - my Yugo underfolder is that way too (and I thought the same thing at first - "is that right?"). So's the bolt hanging up on the hammer a bit. I sanded down the gigantic hump on my Saiga's hammer and it improved a bit, but still rubs; not sure if it's possible to completely eliminate.

 

[Z-Michigan]

The spring loaded pin in the sight indexes it. Does anyone know if there is any problem with this arrangement.

That's normal for an AK/RPK and it's fine. Normal indexing is with the open area to the right, for a right-handed shooter. You may want to consider the more effective AK-74 type brake which is only about $18 from TAPCO. It wouldn't look authentic though.

The barrel in nice and shiny with no pits or dark spots.

The barrel should be a brand-new US-made Green Mountain barrel, so I would hope so!

They're pretty nice despite the Century touch. The stock will respond well to fine sanding and either tung oil or Watco oil.

 

[SharpsDressedMan]

My brother had an original kit with original barrel, and a .310 bullet dropped right down the barrel and wedged about 6 inches from the chamber. Needless to say, it keyholed a lot. He'll end up buying a new barrel, so check your muzzle with a bullet for wear. His bore was shiny, too. As long as you have a new barrel, you're good to go.

 

[nalioth]

I sanded down the gigantic hump on my Saiga's hammer and it improved a bit, but still rubs; not sure if it's possible to completely eliminate.

Please don't do that.

The "bolt hangs up" is perfectly normal in new Kalashnikovs here in the USA. Shooting them solves the issue. Not handling it like it's a wittle bitty baby also prevents occurrences.

Removing material is not the way to go - please don't do it.

 

[Gord]

Removing material is not the way to go - please don't do it.

I spent several long hours carefully inspecting the way the bolt and hammer interface before doing it, and couldn't see any reason for the upper ridge on the hammer to be there - it doesn't contact the firing pin at all and doesn't appear to have any function in allowing the hammer to cock back (at least, my hammer has cocked back a few hundred times since with no problem). I only removed the very "tip" of the ridge, which was maybe 1/32" of material at most - seemed to make a big difference in the smoothness of the bolt going forward, since prior to doing the sanding the bolt would actually hang on the hammer if ridden forward.

We'll see if any problems pop up as it gets shot more. Worst-case scenario I guess I'll be getting a new hammer... :embarassed:

 

[Hownowevilcow]

I also just received the M72 from Classic (at $579, how can you pass it up). I've been dealing with Century Arms products for over 20 years and I can say this is the best product I've ever seen them put out (of course, rumor has it that they fielded the work out to DCI). Either way, what a nice piece! The barrels look good as they are US mfg'd new (by Green Mtn if memory serves). Fit and finish are excellent and the wood (as the 1st poster noted), is not the shipping-pallet quality stuff you normally find on an AK variant. In fact, mine is oak (I was a bit floored by that myself). While the quality of wood was good, it does come basically unfinished so I'm in process of doing my now. Considering your Yugo is under warranty from Century, it may not be a good idea to go dremeling things. A .5 sec "whoops" can cost you a huge headache. I do have a question though- I would like to put on the 74' muzzle attachment but for the life of me, can't figure out how to get the Tapco unit off. Does anyone know if it's tig'd on or something? I've boogered the 'ell out of the POS tapco unit but the f'r won't move! Thanks- glad to be part of the community (new member here). I've been a collector for over 25 years and lets say I have more rifles than teeth. Of course, if I were from West Virgina, that wouldn't mean much. Thanks in advance for any replies. HNEC\

 

[Z-Michigan]

The wood on one I looked at appeared to be teak. Not sure though. Maybe birch? I would be surprised to find oak given its coarse grain.

For the muzzle brake, AKs have a little spring-loaded post in the FSB that holds it in place timing wise. Are you pushing that post in before trying to unscrew? If not, try that! If you are, try to post a photo if you can.

 

[Ian]

Are you trying to turn it the correct direction? Yugo muzzle threads are left-handed.

 

[Hownowevilcow]

It's off- the pin holding it had some sort of liquid lock on it- Had to drive it in. Thanks for the help- will post some photos of the final product (the new brake is in the mail).