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zero help and scope adjustments?

Discussion in 'Rifle Country' started by chriso, Feb 28, 2009.

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  1. chriso

    chriso Member

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    Alright so I took my mark 4 off of my .308 and put it on my 22 today just for fun because my .308 is needing a new trigger assembly right now... I was having trouble with the adjustments I was trying to get it zeroed at 25 and then I would move to fifty and so on I just dont understand how the adjustments change from 25-100 and so on is their a mathmatical way to figure this out I have the M1 knobs wich would be .25 MOA correct? say If I wanted to dial out from 100 to 400 I knew my drop how would I know how much each click is doing out at 400 .25x4??? how about at distances under a 100??? thanks for helping guys!!! any info would be appreciated sorry for the long post!!!
     
  2. jim in Anchorage

    jim in Anchorage Member

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    One MOA= one inch@ 100 yards. Two at 200 yards. 3 at 300.Half inch at fifty. The math is pretty easy.
     
  3. chriso

    chriso Member

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    Do you zero your POA to POI or POI to POA as in do you adjust your clicks to make it from POA to your impact point or do you adjust your impact to your center point of aim?
     
  4. taliv

    taliv Moderator

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    sorry for not being more responsive here, but i have no idea what you're trying to ask in either post. perhaps you could try again?
     
  5. taliv

    taliv Moderator

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    sorry for not being more responsive here, but i have no idea what you're trying to ask in either post. perhaps you could try again?
     
  6. chriso

    chriso Member

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    When you are zeroing your rifle scope and you get it on paper do you Move your point of impact to the point of aim??? or move the point of aim to point of impact with each click of the scope adjustment? is that better its kind of confusing for me as well haha sorry.
     
  7. easyrider6042004@yahoo.ca

    easyrider6042004@yahoo.ca Member

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    1. Once you get your shots within the target paper, shoot a five shot group.

    2. If your group is centered, then good for you. You are done zeroing your scope.

    3. If your group is to the right of, and low relative to, the bullseye:
    Turn the windage adjustment screw in the direction of "left".
    Turn the elevation adjustment screw in the direction of "up".

    4. If your group is to the left of, and high relative to, the bullseye:
    Turn the windage adjustment in the direction of "right".
    Turn the elevation adjustment in the direction of "down".

    Adjustment dials on my scopes have arrows that are labeled "L" and "U".

    Depending on how far off your POI to your POA, you may have to turn several "clicks", doesn't really matter. Make the adjustments and see how your POI moves in relation to your previous group.
     
    Last edited: Mar 2, 2009
  8. kimbernut
    • Contributing Member

    kimbernut Member

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    Scopes vary

    Can't tell you which brands are different but I know that some are. In my Leupold, Redfield,Burris, and Nikon if your shots are hitting low and left you move your turrets upwards and to the right.
     
  9. Riss

    Riss Member

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    You are actually moving the scopes reticule to coincide with where the bullet hit the paper. If you aimed at the little x and the bullet hit to the right you move the scope turret in the direction of R with the little arrow. It will move you bullet strike to the right.
     
  10. DBR

    DBR Member

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    I use the "quick method"

    1) using a rest fire a shot into the target
    2) re establish your original aiming point and firmly brace the rifle in position (usually on sand bags or a gun vise)
    3) using the scope adjustments and insuring the rifle doesn't move adjust the scope to point at the hole the shot made.
    4) using a rest shoot a 3 shot group.
    5) again follow step #3 except adjust the scope to point at the center of the group.

    You are finished, and no math. I recommend 25yds for a 22lr
     
  11. chriso

    chriso Member

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    what RISS and others said is exactly whats confusing me haha I have a luepold mark 4 m1 knobs so I am actually moving the reticle to match where my group is hitting or moving where my impact is towards where the reticle is???
     
  12. jim in Anchorage

    jim in Anchorage Member

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    You might want to get a bore sighter.
     
  13. Funderb

    Funderb Member

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    the directional indicators on the knobs, in laymans terms, "move the hole"

    so when you fire again after moving them in the UP and R positions a couple clicks, the new hole will be higher, and to the right.
     
  14. jim in Anchorage

    jim in Anchorage Member

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    Picture open sights,hitting low. You heighten the rear,making you rise the front sight to get your sights aligned. This raises the muzzle,giving higher point of impact. That is all you are doing with a scope,adjusting the sight picture[in this case,crosshairs] so the gun is pointing where it will hit what you are aiming at
     
  15. jbech123

    jbech123 Member

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    I think you are making this too hard. The scope is marked on which way to turn the knobs to move the bullet impact. If your bullet hits to the left, move th side turret right. How much depends on your distance and how far off the bullet is. If you are 2 inches left at 100 yards, then you'd crank your side turret 8 clicks right. As far as longer distance, it is a linear relationship as you move out. at 200 yards, each click is 1/2 inch. at 300 yards, each click is 3/4 inch, 400 yards, each click is 4/4 or 1 inch. at 1000 it is 10/4, so each click would change the impact 2-1/2 inches.
     
  16. chriso

    chriso Member

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    Alright sweet thanks guys!!!
     
  17. gazpacho

    gazpacho Member

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    What is the parallax setting on your scope? If it is 100 or 150 yards (as I suspect it may be), getting good groups at 25 or 50 yards may prove to be extremely difficult.
     
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