A Question About Plated Bullets

[Glen]

These are not jacketed, but plated. I don't know much about them, but I found some in my supplies. They look jacketed but no crimping groove. With the lack of regular lead bullets I am tempted to try these. I wonder if they need a special die like maybe a taper die because I don't think a roll-crimp like for regular revolver ammo is appropriate here. I load for .38 Special. I've got 250 of these bullets, if I know what to do with them.

 

[mdi]

I tried about 1,000 in my handguns. For me, I see no use. My cast bullets get good workable velocities with little to no leading (and they are fun to make). If I want high velocities and "high tech performance" I go with jacketed HPs. For a newer reloader they can be a bit confusing as many don't have cannelures ("how do I crimp these?") and load data is only now beginning to be easier found ("how much of what powder do I use?" questions seen on many forums many, many times). Many reloaders like them as they are less expensive and clean handling and shooting. I started with lead bullet data and worked up to the manufacturer's top specs. I recently found some 9mm (for my just in case stash) and found the quality lacking. Length and ogive had variations and keeping less than .007" variations in OSAL was very difficult. But again, a whole bunch of reloaders love them...

 

[Blue68f100]

I use to shoot the plated bullets all the time when I shot at a indoor range. Depending on who made them, the load normally falls between jacketed and lead. Taper Crimp is requires unless you have some of the thick plated ones. Those can take a light roll crimp. What you don't want to do is break through the plating. You also need to keep the velocity below 1200 fps for std plating, and 1500 for tp.

I normally find the most accurate load in about the middle of the load range.

 

[bersaguy]

I've shot a few thousand, mostly 9mm and 45. That's my go to for those calibers. I have some 125 grain plated for 38, haven't started loading those yet, but I'm sure they'll do fine with a taper crimp.

 

[CoalCrackerAl]

I run them as well as cast. I load with cast data. Lee does have some plated loads in their book. I give them a light crimp.

 

[Walkalong]

Your plated bullets will work just fine in .38 Spl. I use a light taper crimp, but some folks just use their.38 Spl roll crimp set for a very light crimp.

What bullet weight and what powders do you have?

 

[Jonesy814]

Plated bullets are pretty tough. A mild to medium roll crimp won't hurt them.

 

[Riomouse911]

I quit using plain lead bullets because most of my shooting is indoors and the clouds of smoke that form after every shot don’t make too many friends in the bays next to me. I’ve gone to plated and coated bullets almost exclusively because they smoke very little and are cheaper than jacketed bullets. I load them in .38, .357, .41, .44 Spl., .44 Mag and .45 Colt.

Berrys and Extreme make most of the plated bullets I shoot, I’ve had great luck shooting them for years. I use lead bullet loading data and a mild roll crimp to hold them in place. I don’t push them beyond what I would do with lead bullets.

Stay safe.

 

[Starter52]

I've shot thousands over the years. A light roll crimp works for me with .38 and .41 target loads.

 

[Walkalong]

Plated bullets are pretty tough. A mild to medium roll crimp won't hurt them.

Some are tougher than others, if using a roll crimp always check a pulled bullet before loading a lot of them.

 

[lordpaxman]

Plated work just fine. A light roll crimp will work and a taper will work. You can check your roll crimp by crimping and then pulling the bullet to check to see if you’ve cut through the plating. Obviously you don’t want to do that.
Different plated bullets advise different starting load values. I use starting to mid jacketed values, because when I started with plated and used lead data I stuck a plated bullet in a 6” 686. It was a very light load with a fast powder. Good luck.

 

[edwardware]

Plated bullets are mid-way between cast/lubed and jacketed wrt velocity and pressure capability, and loading considerations. You can push them faster, and you don't need to pamper them quite as much in loading, but it's best to start treating them like cast and then work up towards jacketed.

 

[Akula69]

I loaded up about 250 Berry's in .40 Cal under 7.8 grains AAC7 with a taper crimp. When shot across the Chrono it showed a high of about 1200 fps (average was about 1100) but the plating started to separate downrange and made a halo of fine holes around the POI.
Maybe I had a bad batch...but that was it for plated as far as I was concerned.

 

[GeoDudeFlorida]

Plated work fine. The advantages are lower smoke and cleaner to handle. The disadvantages are inconsistent coatings, hard rolls crimps can "crack" the coating, and lower velocities than jacketed are required to avoid shedding. I'm sure I missed some of advantages and disadvantages and others will follow along to add to both. Bottom line: shoot 'em if you got 'em. They work and you use hardened, coated or lubed lead data for same weight, shape and dimensioned bullets - and sometimes lower-end jacketed data but start at the slow end.

 

[GeoDudeFlorida]

I run them as well as cast. I load with cast data. Lee does have some plated loads in their book. I give them a light crimp.

Hornady and Alliant also have data for copper-plated bullets on their websites. Look for "CP" in the description.

 

[Average Joe]

Plated are fine, much less smoke than the lube ring on a lead bullet. I prefer FMJ when the prices are the same.

 

[Random 8]

I shot a lot of Berrys .41 210 gr plated. I think they were intended for the forgotten .41 AE, but they ran fine in my .41 Mag blackhawk. I was using what I'd describe as a "moderate" crimp over unique, which would qualify as a heavy crimp on .38. I did recover a small number fired into a snow bank, and the crimp mark was evident, but not broken through the plating or causing any noticeable deformation that should affect accuracy. Accuracy was excellent, and I got no leading even pushing them to 1200fps or so.

Assuming you're using a faster .38 powder such as Bullseye, H38 or similar, very little crimp should be needed. Load them up with a light crimp, shoot, be happy.

 

[EricBu]

I shoot a LOT of plated bullets. Probably at least a thousand a month in 9mm, .32 ACP, 38 Spc, and 300 BLK. It's my preference over coated cast for the suppressors, as it's much cleaner. My Marlin loves the Berry's plated 38 wadcutters. For .32 acp, I use the Berry's plated 71 gr bullets. I have a VZ61 with a threaded barrel and run a Osprey 9 on that gun, and it shoots really good with the Berry's. I also run those in a variety of CZs, and a KelTec P32. I have a new Berretta Tomcat Covert on the way, and look forward to the same on that with a can. For 300 BLK, the plated 220s from Berry's works great....I've also bought Everglades plated 220s, but I'm about 99% sure they are made by Berry's as well.

 

[mcb]

I loaded up about 250 Berry's in .40 Cal under 7.8 grains AAC7 with a taper crimp. When shot across the Chrono it showed a high of about 1200 fps (average was about 1100) but the plating started to separate downrange and made a halo of fine holes around the POI.
Maybe I had a bad batch...but that was it for plated as far as I was concerned.

It was more likely you over crimped them than shooting them too fast to cause the plating to separate. Plated bullet don't like much crimp at all. Sharper riflings in the barrel will exacerbate the peeling problem too. I shot a lot of Barry's plated in USPSA as they were one of the few makers of a round nose 40S&W bullet. If I crimped them the plating peeled bad in my XD and to a lesser degree in my S&W 610. When I eliminates the crimp and the pealing issue went complete away in my S&W 610 but never completely went away in the XD. I used them for several seasons in my S&W 610.

As for load data if you can't find specific data then use date for lead bullet of the same weight and work up from the recommended starting load.

I like coated bullets for the handguns if I can get them cheaper but I love Barry's plated bullet for subsonic plinking ammo in my 300 BO. No lead in the suppressor.

 

[GeoDudeFlorida]

It was more likely you over crimped them than shooting them too fast to cause the plating to separate. Plated bullet don't like much crimp at all. Sharper riflings in the barrel will exacerbate the peeling problem too. I shot a lot of Barry's plated in USPSA as they were one of the few makers of a round nose 40S&W bullet. If I crimped them the plating peeled bad in my XD and to a lesser degree in my S&W 610. When I eliminates the crimp and the pealing issue went complete away in my S&W 610 but never completely went away in the XD. I used them for several seasons in my S&W 610.

As for load data if you can't find specific data then use date for lead bullet of the same weight and work up from the recommended starting load.

I like coated bullets for the handguns if I can get them cheaper but I love Barry's plated bullet for subsonic plinking ammo in my 300 BO. No lead in the suppressor.

Now you've piqued my curiosity: I have an XDm .40 - my only .40 - and I am going to start reloading for it. I was thinking about getting some Berry's when the plandemic panic is over and prices start to fall. Is it your opinion the XDm barrel is the problem because it has very sharp rifling? If so, is there a better low-cost alternative for the XDm? Usage is indoor range, informal target. Thanks.

 

[illinoisburt]

Given even at +P loading in 38 special you won't be pushing 1000 fps, I would not worry about the plated bullets at all. As others noted the thin plated are generally fine until you get around 1200 fps. When I spoke with extreme a few years back they assured me the heavy plate was good up to 1600. I've run them full tilt in 44 mag at 1400 or so with great results.

 

[mcb]

Now you've piqued my curiosity: I have an XDm .40 - my only .40 - and I am going to start reloading for it. I was thinking about getting some Berry's when the plandemic panic is over and prices start to fall. Is it your opinion the XDm barrel is the problem because it has very sharp rifling? If so, is there a better low-cost alternative for the XDm? Usage is indoor range, informal target. Thanks.

I would still give them a try in your XDm. I was using an original XD-40. Also the last time I used them in competition was probably over 10 years ago. Barry's may have improved the plating process some and reduced the issue. They are worth a try as they are nice and clean.

If they don't work out I would look to one of the coated lead bullet manufactures. Coat lead is just as good as plated for many applications and is usually cheaper.

 

[GeoDudeFlorida]

I would still give them a try in you XDm. I was using an original XD-40. Also the last time I used them in competition was probably over 10 years ago. Barry's may have improved the plating process some and reduced the issue. They are worth a try as they are nice and clean.

If they don't work out I would look to one of the coated lead bullet manufactures. Coat lead is just as good as plated for many applications and is usually cheaper.

Thanks!

And now, since every thread needs them...

.45ACP Moonclips!

 

[PO2Hammer]

I had a revolver that the rifling would cut the plating on Rainier 158 PFP and lead slightly, but not on the Rainier 125 PFP or any of the Berry's bullets.

Other than that nothing but success with plated bullets.
I've used profile and taper crimp in 357, a gentle taper crimp would hold bullets up to 158 grains up to 1000 fps, if you shoot hotter a medium roll or profile crimp will hold.

Shooting 9mm with Xtreme 124 PFP and W231 today from a Glock 17L, accurate and super clean shooting.

 

[peeplwtchr]

Plated bullets are pretty tough. A mild to medium roll crimp won't hurt them.

I only shoot plated due to less cost than FMJ. I crimp the .001 to .002, and get good results. My most accurate loads fall in the low-med charge range.